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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 818
    I've seen many complaints of the fuel pump relay failing on late 80's early 90's Accords.

    My 88 isn't fuel injected so I'm not sure the exact location of the relay, I think it may be located under the dash, drivers side.

    Mrbill
  • donswartzdonswartz Posts: 28
    I have a 1991 honda accord. The car would not start during the summer one year. I would work all day and go out to my car and it would not turn over. I would try to jump the car and nothing. I read somewhere that the master relay, found under the dash on the driver's side on the left side of the car, goes bad and won't start during hot days. I replaced it and haven't had a problem since. I think I paid about $60 for the part. I hope this helps.

    If anyone has any suggestions about my selt belt alarm I would love to know how to fix it. Read my previous message about 4 up. Thanks for anyones help.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    did you see my post after yours re: the seatbelt alarm?
  • donswartzdonswartz Posts: 28
    Yes thanks for the post. It is a little more complicated than I can understand. I don't know anything about jumping circuits and all. I will replace a part if I need to I was just not following what you were saying. I appreciate the time you took to look into the situation. Thanks.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    there is a switch in the run of the seatbelt latch. either the switch opens (to inhibit the flow of current in the ckt) when the latch starts to move to the back of the window, or the switch closes (to allow the current to flow in the ckt). The ckt (short-hand for circuit) is the one which the belt monitor checks to make sure you have your belts on.

    i'm thinking the problem may be in the switch in the run, and not in the seat.

    pass the information to someone a bit more familiar with vehicle wiring. maybe they can help. good luck.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    see post #151. Dollars to donuts its the main relay. Under dash along firewall above clutch area.
  • I have a 1990 Honda accord lx with problems. The car revs up to 2700rpm then drops to 900 over and over. This makes the car overheat on my drive to school (about 8 blocks). I need to fix it fast and cheap, please help. The car starts without incident. I think the problem begins when the car gets warm and it doesnt stop. The engine revs and drops while driving, in park and in neutral. Any help would be great.
  • There is an access panel in the trunk to get to the fuel pump :) . I disconnected the electric connection. There are three wires. a red, a black, and a yellow. with a volt meter. I put my black probe on the black wire and the red probe on the red wire. I got about 24 VAC with the ignition in the on position. Then I moved the red probe to the yellow wire and I am getting about 13 VAC. since I am getting current at the connection, then is my main fuel relay good? Also is the voltage reading correct. Also I am not hearing the pump come on. :sick: Does anyone have any suggestions on this. and where can I get a cheap fuel pump that works? again Thank You for any Help.
  • nhra62nhra62 Posts: 2
    i have a 1990 accord and when I am driving at about 70mph on freeway tach is about 3000rpm and will go up to about 4000rpm by itself but car stays the same speed. where is the tach connected? Why would this happen.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Can you tell if the engine is changing RPMS at all (listen for engine-racing) or is it just an instrumentation problem? I don't know the fix either way, but it might help others figure it out.
  • nhra62nhra62 Posts: 2
    I does not sound as if the engine is racing. It seems like instrumentation that is why i was looking for where tach is connected or how does tach get its information on rpms.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Ok, that's probably a good sign. You can live without RPM info, but if it was actually racing, you'd have a more serious issue. Good luck finding help. My speedometer went out a few years ago; to fix it they had to replace the whole instrument unit, odometer and all. My car now has about 160,000 miles on it, but it reads 48,200 miles because of the new unit. I wonder if a new dash module is in order for you, too? Does anybody know?
  • While I am not familiar with the differences in the model years '90 thru '93, this is the first time I've ever heard of an access panel for the fuel pump. I had always thought you could only get to it by removing the gas tank. :cry:

    There is, however, an access panel for the fuel level tank unit. Could this be what you were looking at? :confuse:

    There should be an electrical connector for the fuel pump under the back seat in near proximity to the tank unit. (Assuming) this is the connector you're checking, you should read 12v on the yellow wire and the black wire is ground. I have no idea what the red wire is, but it's not for the fuel pump. It is not shown anywhere on my schematics.

    Once you've verified that you have voltage at the pump and a good ground then your main relay is ok.

    As far as finding a cheap fuel pump goes, I can only suggest shopping around at parts stores through the yellow pages or surfing the web. If you going to do it yourself, you may want to get your hands on a maintenance manual to see what replacing it involves.
  • Oh yes, the most important thing I neglected to mention. You your stated your readings as VAC. Thought at first this might be a typo, but if you were getting 24 volts out of a 12 volt circuit you likely had your meter set for A.C. instead of D.C., which would make your readings bogus. Make sure your meter is set on the correct VDC setting and recheck.
  • Thank you for the information. I was checking it with VAC - I will recheck the connection with VDC. I will let everyone know what the final solution is. If there are anymore ideas out there. i would still like to hear them. Thank you
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    The fuel relay fails inttermittent. If you are getting voltage back there see if the car starts. I am still thinking its that main relay. The car would start fine in the morning in the garage, sit at work all day in the sun, and then not start when I wanted to go home...no fuel.
    When I would check it in the morning it was fine. You might want to spend a minute and google "Honda main relay" and get some hints that way too.
  • I read that it may be a fast idle valve or a evac problem. The problem is I dont know what aboutthem is wrong and i dont know where to locate them on my car. Please help.
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    Did you say your car also overheat?
    It could be the sticky thermostat. Items 4 & 6.

    http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1990&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=WATER+PUMP

    If your car is not overheat, I would inspect item #14, TW sensor. But I think it's still good because your CEL did't come on.
  • jhelmsjhelms Posts: 1
    In the last couple of days my car has become hard to steer. It will be hard to turn and then suddenly become easy again. My first thought was that I was low on power steering fluid but after after a check and quick top off the problem is still there. Any suggestions?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 818
    Did you check to see if the drive belt is loose?

    Mrbill
  • donswartzdonswartz Posts: 28
    Please help me. I have a 1991 honda accord and my seat belt lights flashes and the alarm sounds. I have automatic belts. When I open the passenger's side door the sound and blinking will still continue. When I open the driver's side door it stops. When it is blinking and flashing I disconnect the driver's side selt belt and nothing happens and if I disconnect the belt on the passenger's side the light goes solid. I have taken out both seats. The harnesses below the seats are contected. I plugged and unplugged the wires from the seat belt control unit under the passenger's seat. I have read a lot of people are having problems with this just haven't been able to find the answer. Please I beg you please help. Thanks.
  • the car does over heat, I thought that was a result of the rpm surging. The rpms start to surge before then engine temp gague reaches avegage temp. Also, I experimented by disconnecting the EACV plug. When I did this the check engine light came on (it never came on before) and the idle stated sugring from 1200-1400rpms instead of 1000-2500rpms. I need to fix fast, i need my car back!!
  • Hey man I came across this looking for the same thing! The exact same car with the exact same problem! Thank God I thought it was just me. The only difference with mine is that the retractor on the passenger side door doesn't me like it is supposed to half the time and when it does I cant open the passenger side door or it stops working again
  • You stated in an earlier post that the RPMS also surged while you were driving it. Do the fluctuations also occur while you're depressing the gas pedal (thus opening the throttle plate) or only when you let off the gas?
  • joenholjoenhol Posts: 2
    we had to change the battery in our 92 accord and we tried to put the code # in to get the stereo working again and it's not working . does anybody know anything about the anti theft security code?
  • From a 1993 owners manual, for what it's worth.
    The radio must be on and the word "CODE" must show in the display.

    Enter the 5 digit code using the preset station buttons.
    (the code is printed on the cards that came with your radio)

    Be sure to complete the number sequence even if a mistake was made. For example, if you entered the wrong number in the second position, continue entering the last three numbers anyway. A beep will then sound after five digits are entered and the word "CODE" will reappear in the display. You should then enter the correct code.

    Once you've entered the correct code sequence the word "CODE should disappear and the radio should operate.

    If the correct code is not entered in three successive tries, the radio will not accept entry at this time. You must wait one hour with the radio left ON to re-enter the correct code.
  • donswartzdonswartz Posts: 28
    I have read a lot of posts around that people are having problems with this though nobody is posting how to fix it. I have tried a lot of things. I just don't want to go replacing parts if the part is good. It is a 1991 for crying out loud. Though it drives me nuts. I want to sell the car and nobody would buy it right now. I have unplugged the harness under the passenger seat. Now everytime I go to get out I closeline myself because the belt doesn't retract. Someone please help up. Thanks.
  • greeny1greeny1 Posts: 1
    Hello, need help. My 1992 Honda Accord LX has no brake lights. All 3 bulbs are fine, checked every fuse in fuse box in engine compartment and fuse box in panel on drivers side inside of car. What should I look for now. I was told there is a brake switch under brake pedal, how do I test it? Thanks for any help.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    Before replacing any parts, you might want to part with the $10 and get the Haynes or Chilton's repair manuals, or get the factory one off eBay. These little mysteries may be much clearer after that.
  • joenholjoenhol Posts: 2
    thanks for your response. we ended up disconnecting the battery and starting over with the code and the stereo came back on the first try.
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