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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

15960626465103

Comments

  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    Yes, yours is an interference engine. A good mechanic can tell fairly quickly if the belt is broken. However it will take more labor to determine the extent of the damage. Only you can decide how far you are willing to go if, in fact, the belt is broken.
    Did you have any warning such as low oil presssure or engine running hot before the incident?
    Blue smoke is burning oil and white to grey smoke is anti freeze. I may be wrong here but I'm leaning towards a blown head gasket.
  • exactlyexactly Posts: 1
    91 accord same no start problem how do i test relay
  • rcraddockrcraddock Posts: 1
    I too am having the same problem.. I'm not sure whats wrong... I'm not getting any fuel pressure, or spark, the car is turning over, I replaced the main relay, and still no luck, I even tested the throtle positioning sensor with the key on to see if the ECU was getting power and it was working.

    I tested the ignition, nothing wrong there.. but there is something going on... No fuel pump, and no spark I checked out the main relay and it is fine, I also tried another out of a running car, what do I do next...

    If anyone knows anything please help, thanks, ronn. email me lv_techs at yahoodotcom
  • rws800rws800 Posts: 4
    I too have a civil with75K & was just replacing plugs, filters etc and asked about the oxygen sensor ( I believe that's the correct term) It's located or rather two of them - when you open hood one is at the exhaust manafold & has a wire leading out of it to the computer. The other one is supposed to be after the catylic converter. They were very costly , like $150 for one and $80 or so for the other. The guy at Advanced auto asked if I was having the engine light coming on or bad engine performance. And no, so why change it and he said the maintence was 120k miles. These sensors feed the computer info on fuel burning etc and if they are onthe blink you will have wrong imput and the computer keeps trying to adjust the fuel/air mixture. Ask some people at the Honda garage. If you do have to change them out you need a torch to heat the metal where they are located to expand the metal and get them out. Try put some antiseize on the new threads.
    Hope this helps. Check a maintance type book Haynes etc.
  • aspringaspring Posts: 6
    I have a Honda Accord 1993. Recently I started to have a problem with the car. The card does not start. When jumpstart the battery, it works fine. So I told myself, it has to be from the battery.

    I went to AutoZone, and bought a new battery. Next day, the car did not start..wow that was a pain. I did jumpstart the battery, and the car starts fine. For the next two weeks, I never had a problem and the car starts without a problem.

    Recently, last two days I could not start the car. However, when I jumpstart the battery the car starts fine...what is the problem? is it the starter, the fuse,...? please advice. Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Did you have autozone load test your old alternator and battery before buying a new battery? Most autochains will do that for free.

    Since your car starts when jumped, that usually means your battery is discharged. 'WHY' it is discharged, is the real question. If it was discharged because the battery had a bad cell, then replacing the battery would fix the problem. However, if the reason the battery had low voltage was because the alternator is bad and isn't charging the battery back up, then you replaced the wrong part. You might also have corrosion on your battery terminals or they are loose, but I'm assuming you would have fixed any corrosion when putting a new battery in.

    I'd take it back to AutoZone, and have them do a load test on your car. They'll roll out a tester, and hook it up to your battery and alternator. They can then put a resistive load on it, and check that your alternator is putting out the right voltage and maximum current, and they will also check that your battery can hold the voltage.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    You should have had Autozone test the old battery first. Your car's electrical system could be draining the battery, or you could have a main relay problem. Read this link, and try to diagnose the cause.
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html

    The important thing is to find the cause, and test the suspected parts. Getting into a guessing game, can become very expensive. Good luck, in your quest for truth. :)
  • In addition to the previous advise, check your battery cables.

    A faulty battery cable will often (typically in my experience) exhibit the same symptoms as a weak battery during the start cycle, sometimes even requiring a jump start, but won't necessarily have an obvious noticeable effect on the car's charging / electrical system once it is running. If your warning light is not illuminating when the car is running and you have a good battery when attempting to start, this should be at the top of the list of things to check.

    Checking for voltage drop through the cables is simple if you have a mutimeter or perhaps Autozone will do this when they check the alternator (or maybe not ,I don't know).

    For a quick check, see if a cable gets warm or hot to the touch the next time you have trouble starting it
  • aspringaspring Posts: 6
    Thanks for the advice.

    I went back to Autozone. They tested the new battery and alternator. Both are fine. They did not not know what still cause this, as the problem still exist. The battery location seems fine along with the connections (nothing loose).

    So the problem is not from the alternator, could be the Starter?
  • aspringaspring Posts: 6
    Of course, I tested the old battery before replacing it. They say it is bad. But having a new battery did not fix the problem.

    I went back to Autozone. They tested the new battery and alternator. Both are fine. They did not know what still cause this, as the problem still exist. The battery location seems fine along with the connections (nothing loose).

    So the problem is not from the alternator, could be the Starter? and what do you mean by main relay?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Unlikely the starter, remotely possible, but I doubt it.

    The only thing you are doing when 'jumping' the vehicle, is connecting up a known battery of working voltage to your battery. If the starter had a problem, which battery is connected doesn't matter.

    Since you know you have a good battery and alternator, the next thing to eliminate is whether something is draining down your battery. If you have a charged good battery, and lights are left on (or something is draining down the battery), then you will end up with a 'discharged' good battery. When you try to start, there isn't enough voltage and you get the clicking. You come along and jump it, give it the right voltage, and the car starts up.

    The way to figure this out, is to first confirm first that something is draining down the battery. With a digital voltmeter, measure and record the voltage on the battery after you stop the car. (Should be in the 13.2-14.2 volt range) (Obviously check to make sure NOTHING is on ...... inside lights, outside lights, things plugged into the power outlets, etc). Measure the voltage every hour for a number of hours.

    If you are finding the voltage dropping, then either the battery is bad (which you verified that it wasn't), or something is drawing current. If you disconnect the positive lead and put a test light in series, if the light is on then something is drawing current.

    Depending now on your diagnostic skills (and if you have an electrical schematic for your vehicle), you can start pulling fuses to see if you can get the light to go out. If the light goes out with a fuse pull, then you know that something on that circuit is drawing power.

    I have seen vehicles with a light on in the trunk (bad switch causing light on), and a bad switch on power seat (leaving motor trying to adjust), bad relay causing radiator fan to stay on, etc. Just last month my daughter left the inside lights turned on during the day (couldn't see that it was lit).
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Sounds like you (or someone) needs to do some investigation into this matter. Here's a troubleshooting link, if you want to check it out. Good luck.
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html
  • aspringaspring Posts: 6
    Your logic make sense.

    I opened the hood today and spent sometime looking into the connections. I saw the wire that connects the starter to the battery really loose. So I cliped it firmly. I will see if this will fix the problem...if not, I will try other possibilities.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    That will do it. That has to be a really tight connection.

    How could that be loose, if you had the battery checked at autoparts store? They would have tightened it.....
  • Hi,
    I need some help with a problem I have with my 1993 Honda Accord, 142,000 miles. Over the past several months, my car has been
    jumping/hesitating/stuttering. Initially, it happened so rarely I thought I had gone over something on the road. It happened more frequently, I started to pay attention. It felt as though I had driven over speed bumps. The car would lose power, stutter/jump several times and then everything would go back to normal. These events were sporadic. Never happened on acceleration or deceleration, but occurred when cruising (40-50 mph).
    I took the car to the mechanics who have worked with my car for years. They all said, “sounds like spark plug problem”. They found the engine gasket needed replacing, oil in the spark plug wells- I guess as a result of the gasket problem- and wires to the distributor old and cracked. I paid the $$$, drove the car for a couple of days and the problem was not fixed. Back to the mechanic. Faulty distributor wires… which they replaced. Problem still not fixed. Right now this occurs on a daily basis. The car will develop a throaty growl, hesitate a little, then back to normal.
    I have been thinking back as to when I started to notice this, as my old Honda is a great driving car. They had replaced all my belts some months ago and I think it was after this that I began to notice this problem.
    I would appreciate any suggestions or advice anyone has.
    Sincerely
    Anne
  • aspringaspring Posts: 6
    I am not sure how it was loose...I will see if the problem from this wire. I hope this will fix it, otherwise I will write again and ask. Thanks for all your help.
  • xhortaxhorta Posts: 2
    hi, i'm totally new at this and not very mechanicly savy. but from reading different posts on this site i know there is alot of good help here from good people. i replaced both belts, power steering belt, and ac and alternator, which use the same one. when starting the car, before changing the belts, the belts would make squeeking sound. well, the ac belt would make sound when ac was turned on, would last for about 5 to 7 seconds then stop. i decided to replace with new belts. no noise for the first test drive. following day, it became worse than before replacing belts. only does it when starting car and initially turning on ac. i thought i adjusted the alternator as high as possible to keep an adequate tension. is there another area where the tension of the belts can be adjusted?? is there an actual tensioner device on the car i don't know about? how can i tighten the belts?? Thanks in advance.
  • aspringaspring Posts: 6
    It seems that it is not from the cable.

    I did not drive the car for two days. This morning, the car did not start, there was not even any sound. I noticed that the AC knob was on; could the reason be the AC is leaking some power and draining the battery...this is frustrating.

    My cosuin felt happy and kept repeating that the problem could be from the starter, and that I am not listening to him...LOL; that more frustrating.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    When the car doesn't start, and the cause is the battery is now discharged and doesn't have enough voltage to start the car, then the problem is either:
    - the battery is defective, or
    - there is something 'on' in the vehicle, which is drawing a current while the vehicle is turned off, and drawing all of the current out of the battery while it sits for two days.

    I don't remember your situation, but the first step is to have an autoparts chain test your battery and alternator under load, which they'll do for free. The battery needs to be able to hold the power and deliver it when needed. The purpose of the alternator is to 'fill' the battery back up.

    So if we assume your battery an alternator are okay (you really do need to verify that first), then your battery would be fully charged when you turn it off. You can verify that by measuring with a digital voltmeter, should be at least 13.0 volts. If you battery then is drawn down when you try to start (test with a voltemeter, and less than say 12 volts), then something is drawing down. By the way, you can buy digital voltmeters relatively cheaply at an autoparts store or radio shack, among other places.

    The way to find what is drawing down your battery takes some trial and elimination, and is helpful if you have electrical schematics. If you disconnect the + cable from the battery, and put a test light (can be purchased at autoparts) from the +cable to the +battery terminal....if the light is on then something is wanting to draw current. You can start pulling the fuses, to help figure out whether it's something on that circuit or not. If this is beyond your capabilities, then take it to a shop who has the background to troubleshoot electrical problems.

    I've seen things on like:
    - trunk lights not turning off
    - power seat with a defective switch, leaving power to the motor
    - defective aftermarket alarms
    - defective engine computers
    - defective diodes in the alternator (won't find this via fuse, but the alternator test will find this)
    - defective door switch, leaving the inside lights on
    - my daughter leaving the dome light on :)
    - defective power window switch
    - defective relay, leaving circuits powered when the key was off

    Good luck
  • 94shadow94shadow Posts: 31
    Hello,

    I have a 92 Honda Accord and my D4 light doesn't come on when I put the gear shift in D4, all the rest of the shifting lights comes on.
    When the gear shift is in D4, the A/T shifts from 1st gear to 4th gear with a clunk. No in between gears. What could be the problem?
    Everything else works fine.
    Hope to hear from someone or anyone for this problem.
    Thanks,
    94shadow
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