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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • 92honda192honda1 Posts: 5
    Yeah its dark brown and i checked the oil and it was real low. i think its comeing from underneath where the timing belt is.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,272
    Well oil can travel along an engine block---but from that place, it could be a bad front crankshaft seal. That might not be too hard to fix, although one wonders why it would blow out a front seal like that.

    I wonder if you have way too much crankcase pressure, like from a clogged PCV valve/system.

    Or, excessive oil pressure from a stuck oil relief valve.

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  • 92honda192honda1 Posts: 5
    edited June 2010
    How would I find out if my PCV valve/system is clogged or if i have a stuck oil relief valve? My car also has a really low idle could that be from a clogged PCV valve?
  • astorastor Posts: 30
    edited June 2010
    If it's leaking under the timing belt housing, I'll bet one of the three seals in there is leaking, crankshaft seal, camshaft seal, oil seal.
  • 92honda192honda1 Posts: 5
    Are any of those seals expensive to fix?
  • astorastor Posts: 30
    edited June 2010
    My independent Honda mechanic replaced all three seals, cam seal, balancer shaft seal, crank seal with the 200,000 mile timing belt replacement service, he also put in a new water pump, Oil pump O ring, Balancer belt, timing belt, all drive belts(alternator & power steering) all for US$570.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If it is one of the seals, the timing belt is oil soaked and needs to be changed also. $500 sounds like a fair price for that. I am pretty sure there are retainers you can install to keep the seals from popping out again.
  • astorastor Posts: 30
    Just make sure when you replace the timing belt with an OEM belt from Honda (supplied by Gates). The OEM will get you to 100,000 miles, even if it has been soaked for a long time with oil. Goodyear makes an after market belt, some mechanics use it to cut corners on cost.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I certainly wouldn't take the timing belt off, replace the seal, then re-use the oil soaked timing belt. The belt costs less than $40, so it's not a big expense. If the belt breaks, that would be a big expense.
  • astorastor Posts: 30
    My main point is this, he needs to replace the timing belt with an OEM belt one.
  • ken734ken734 Posts: 2
    Thks very much for the help. Have not had a chance to check this out, but it is something to look at. Thks again
  • oldschool90oldschool90 Posts: 36
    edited June 2010
    Hey all,
    Just wondering if anyone could tell me the specs for an oil pressure test? I know I need to hook up a gauge to the oil pressure sensor hole, but I cant find the specs anywhere (like: xx psi at xx rpms). Or if someones got any ideas what is going on with my oil light. It comes on at idle and only after its warmed up. We just changed the pressure sensor, and nothing. Just recently changed the oil and filter (due to this problem) and ran a cleaner through it and the light didn't come on while idling (we put in 10w-30, if it helps). But as soon as the oil change was done, it started up again. If anyones got any ideas, or maybe a website, I would greatly appreciate it!
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    This is only a guess, but the screen on the oil pump pick-up may be clogging up. When you stop the engine, some of the goop falls back into the pan, so the screen is not as clogged up when you start it. But the longer the engine runs, the more sludge gets sucked into the screen. At idle, the pump is not sucking hard enough to pull the oil through the clogging screen, but when the engine rpms go up, it can sometimes pull the oil through, and the light will go off. You would have to take the oil pan off, to clean the screen, which unfortunately means removing part of the exhaust piping. The bolts on the exhaust are usually VERY difficult to remove. A cutting torch is the easiest way, IMO. I have no idea what the oil pressure should be, sorry. Good luck with it.
  • Thanks for your advice, but I just took the oil pan off recently, and it was very clean.
  • carlisle5carlisle5 Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Accord EX Sedan- for the past 3 weeks, it has been going dead, whether riding on idle @ the light. No check engine light come on, the A/c will condition to put out, the radio will play and the hazard lights will turn on, it take 3-5 attempts to crank. Seems as though w/ more electrical items, such as A/C, Navigational device and radio, going @ once, this help the car to die. I called the local Honda service department but he stated that if the problem can't be duplicated then, they will not be able to repair the car. I have taken it to the local Auto Zone and when place on the machine, it does not give a code. I have had a frayed battery cable replaced, thinking that would repair the problem but no. I hate to trade the car but safety first, it has been great the past 10 years, I have not spent close to $1000.00 in repairs ( excluding tune-ups). Has anyone else had this problem and what did you ascertain to be the problem?
    Thank in advance
  • scootter1scootter1 Posts: 23
    Hey All,
    My sons Accord is leaking water somewhere on the drivers side of the engine. I am not familiar with the water pumps on these cars. I followed the tube behind the engine where it hooks back up by the timing cover. I assume they have the pumped tucked behind there somewhere?? Of coarse it wouldn't leak when I was looking at it.
    I saw an earlier post that said its about 5 hours with the a/c unit. I did my daughter timing belt about 8 years ago and that was a pain in the [non-permissible content removed]. I can't remember if I did the pump along with the belt but I must have. So does the front engine cover along with everything else have to come off to get to the pump???
    Thanks Scott
  • I personally would try a radiator stop leak product first before you go through all the trouble of taking off the water pump.
  • keyon19keyon19 Posts: 11
    I have a 1993 honda accord se with a 1992 accord ex 2.2 f22 a6 swap. The problem is sometimes when i try to start it on a cold start it takes about 3 tries to start then when it starts it idles rough or sputters until it reaches 1500rpms. Also it kicks a cloud of white smoke on start up... Any ideas and the main relay is already been tested, fuel injectors changed im thinking it could be my intake mantifold......anything else
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,272
    Stop leak may indeed stop a small hose or radiator leak.

    Stop leak is ineffective against water pump leaks----so if the stop leak stops the problem, you know at least it wasn't the water pump.

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  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    edited June 2010
    carlisle5,
    Read this link, scroll up to the section on starting running problems. It may at least give you some ideas. I think it may be your ignition switch, but don't just take my word for it. There may be a recall on the ignition switch, so you might want to check on that too. Good luck

    http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/faq.html#transmission
  • my car has 272,000 miles and does not have the original trannny, it has started not shifting correctly and now the green "sport" light is on. dumb question, but do you think the tranny is going out?
  • scootter1scootter1 Posts: 23
    Thanks for the replies. If it is the water pump, where the heck is the weep hole?
    Scott
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,272
    If it even has one, it'd be on the underside of course, just behind the pulley.

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  • Scratch my post, no one repled anyway. I disconnected the battery and the light went off, the car is shifting just fine.
  • To get a visual on the weep hole, take off the lower timing cover. You will need to crawl underneath the Accord, and use a flashlight.
  • scootter1scootter1 Posts: 23
    Thanks for the reply! That makes sense unlike the rest of this mess.
    I might have to get the car and drive it myself unless this might make sense to you. Car loose's water. He said it was on the drivers side somewhere. Okay, probably water pump. Now he gets to work to days in a row and says steam is coming out of the coolant tank but the temp gauge is still in the middle!! So I go over and start the car. No bubbles in the radiator, or water in the oil or oil in the water like a cracked head. Fans come on when the car gets to middle temp and it looks like water is flowing through the radiator. So I am thinking that possibly the thermostat could be intermitently getting stuck also?????
    Scott
  • lizz1234lizz1234 Posts: 13
    when i start up my 1990 accord, i have to let it warm up for several minutes. even in the summer. if i don't, when i come to my first complete stop after hitting about 25-30mph my car shuts off. when it shuts off the battery & oil lights are lit up. i've replaced the o2 sensor. any ideas?
  • dave299dave299 Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 accord ex 5 speed. Over the past year I have had problems with the car starting. It is usually when I am already fixing something else. The problem is always the same: no spark coming out of the coil and no fuel because there is no signal to the fuel pump. By messing around with the wires at the distributor and the fuel pump it usually starts, but I really dont know if I did something or it just decided to start by itself. Sometimes I just get frustated and leave it alone and it will decide to start a day later and work fine till I have to fix it again and start with the problems all over. I changed the coil and ignition control module to no avail. I could just keep on changing things till its fixed but that would cost more than the cars worth. Anybody know what the problem might be?
  • Try testing/checking your main relay.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,272

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