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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair

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  • I had the exact thing happen to my 93 Honda Accord. I drove to my independent repairman, after calling him. He laughed when I called, and knew exactly what it was. I think the price for the plug from Honda (for him) was something ridiculous like 50 cents. Whatever it was, I think he only charged me for the price of the part, because it was a 30 second repair, or most likely, because he is a very honest and smart repairman, which I know to be a fact. If anyone needs help in the Cibolo Texas area, he's your man!
  • whittentawhittenta Posts: 4
    Figured out that problem. Had the transmission computer rebuilt. Apparently there are a few parts that were used in the computers that go bad. I found a place in TN to rebuild it for cheap. Now the codes are saying my solenoids are bad. I can't afford a new solenoid. How can I test to see if they are bad or not?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,266
    I'd have to dig up a workshop manual to answer that question---some solenoids can be tested in place, either by activating them artificially or by measuring voltage in and voltage out.

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  • We recently replaced the O2 Sensor on the car, and now we are getting a code 1 through the check engine light. I have no idea what this refers to. Any ideas?
    I have a 1993 Honda Accord 10th Anniversary Edition.
  • My car did the same thing, its because 2 fuses have blown in the TCU unit. VERY easy to fix and all its costs is the price a soldering gun & a couple of fuses from radio shack. here's the website with the details on how to fix it. http://people.consolidated.net/etrider/accordtcufix.html
  • have you resolved this?? We had the same problem for a 130.00 and core return we replaced the TCM (tranny control modular) it is located in the floor board passenger side under a plate. We have had no problems since.
  • kdmbkdmb Posts: 1
    I have lost most of the lights on the temperature control panel (some of the push buttons and the slider control). How do I remove the panel to get at the light bulbs? I cannot locate any screws to remove the panel.

    Thanks in advance
  • Working on my friends honda and tightening down one of the nuts that hold the head cover to the head and the bolt snapped at the top so now i cant get a proper seal. Am i able to replace just that bold somehow or am i screwed and need a whole new head? and if i can replace just the bold. what is that bold called?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,266
    You mean a valve cover bolt? Are you saying the valve cover bolt snapped off and the remaining stem is in the cylinder head?

    In that case you have to drill it out in such a way to get an extractor tool in the broken stud.

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  • yes thats it. thank you. much appreciated
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,266
    You can bone up on YouTube on how to do this. (SEE LINK BELOW) Remember you get only good clear shot to do it right, but if you take your time you should be able to extract it. These valve cover bolts are pretty small--they do not need much tightening---the gasket seals the cover, not the tightness of the bolt. These can easily be "tight enough" using a 1/4" drive socket and only a little strain on your hand, on a one-handed approaching to tightening.

    USING AN EASY-OUT TOOL

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  • Been having a lot of trouble with my 93 LX. Temperature spikes dramatically, car heats up fast. Checked fluid in radiator, added coolant, seemed to fix problem. Started heating up again. Wife driving it yesterday, said she heard a loud pop, and coolant was gushing out from under hood. I get home, look at it, coolant seems to be on backside of motor, near the bottom. I can't find any burst hoses or leaks. Not much of a mechanic. Car is also burning a lot of oil. And idling funny. Usually idles real low, but has a tendency to also race and rev up and down. Crazy. How screwed am I?
  • Sounds like a head gasket.
  • cnm_01cnm_01 Posts: 1
    Bought a 93 lx w/80k one owner clean carfax etc. for my 16 year old..She is only 5' 1' and worried about visibility. Any other drivers out there same height or solutions ?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,266
    edited April 2013
    Very often on older cars like that the seat padding has collapsed or the springing is weak, so one solution is to have the seat re-padded. It's also possible to have a shop raise the seat but this has to be done carefully, for obvious safety reasons--no shop doing mickey-mouse when it comes to seat-anchoring.

    I'm not a fan of seat pads because it can cause the driver to slide around, which fatigues them and might even affect control to some extent.

    Another inexpensive solution might be a thick sheepskin cover, which gives you a bit more height and doesn't slide so much. About $80 bucks for that, versus couple hundred to do up a seat.

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  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The good thing is that you've bought one of the best cars I've ever driven for visibility. There's a ton of glass in that thing, small pillars, low "hip" point of the car (so side glass is sufficiently low).
  • coloradocivicoloradocivi Posts: 1
    edited August 2013
    Hi I have a 92 Honda civic. Today my car started to sputter when I am at a stop. And when I start the car and place it in reverse. It doesnt make a sound, no mechanical sounds. I changed the plugs and wires a month ago. New timing belt 5months ago. I did upgrade gas this morning from 85 to 87. Temperature here was nice in the 80s today. The car drives well when accelerating and changes gears fine. Its a sputter and slight shake, more pronounced when reversing from a stop. It feels like it wants to die, but hasn't...yet. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  • Hi,

    How can I open the glove box of my '93 with the handle broken off..?
  • This thread is 7 years old, so this reply is for new readers. I was disappointed to see all the reply's advising to "Just learn to live with it". I learned of a simple answer that will cost you five or six dollars, and can be done at home with a decent set of automotive wrenches and a floor jack. The general idea is to loosen the mounts and raise the motor slightly to take the weight off of the mounts. Next, fill the areas in the rubber part of the mount, where the rubber has worn or deteriorated away, with silicone caulk from a caulking gun. Tape one side of the rubber to prevent the silicone from passing through, and fill from the other side. Here is a link to the site where I learned of this:
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcA7tU9TlJA
    This vibration is very annoying, and is definitely NOT harmless, so don't "Learn to live with it"! Spend five bucks and an afternoon and get rid of it
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