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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • I will give that a try and let you know the outcome.Thanks for the reply :)
  • moonzemoonze Posts: 3
    I need to replace my water pump in my 90 Accord. i have gotten to the point where all i need now is to remove 1 last 10mm bolt, and it is already half way off. Here is the problem, the Tension adjuster assembly is slightly in the way so i cannot back the bolt all the way out. I have tried to take off the adjuster nut, but that sucker wont budge. How can this be done?
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,656
    Try this PB Blaster product (Wal Mart and other stores)

    You can sometimes tease a bolt loose by first TIGHTENING it just a little...a very little...then loosening it (presuming you have the PB Blaster on hand to keep lubricating it).

    Some people suggest a BREAKER BAR but you know what? That's risky...once you hear the sickening SNAP! your day is ruined...maybe a few days....

    Another technique is to apply heat to the adjuster but a cold spray (like the 'electrical freeze' they sell at Radio Shack) to the bolt itself. This way you get an expansion on the adjuster side and a contraction on the bolt side.

    The key here is not rush, get frustrated, etc. If you find yourself getting nervous or mad, STOP and take a break.
  • moonzemoonze Posts: 3
    Thanx for the response Mr_Shift. I have tried the tightening then back off and try to loosen it, but it didnt work. Also thought of the breaker bar, but my better judgment got the better of me, as i do not want to hear that dreadful SNAP! I will pick some of that PB up tomorrow, along with that electrical freeze you talked about. Is this normal for this nut to be so tight? after all it is an accorn type nut.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,656
    Well sure on an older car.
  • geez123geez123 Posts: 4
    This morning I was driving my baby 1991 Accord DX Sedan and when I was opening my garage door, I noticed smoke coming out from under the hood. I looked at the temp gauge and it was pointing H (hot). So I move the car for about 25 feet to park the car out of the traffic way. Within minutes, I see liquid coming out from the car at the bottom. What could cause the car to overheat?

    Do you think I ruined the engine for driving 25 feet to park the car? Think one of the hoses broke loose and coolant leaked out?

    How much of a repaid do you think I am looking at?

    All possible solutions are welcomed. This is my 1st car and it has been very loyal to me since I bought it in 1991. It has 209K miles and I was hoping to make to 300K.

    Thanks! :confuse: :sick:
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,656
    It depends how long it was pegged on hot.

    Best thing you can do is find the leak, fix that, and then drive the car to see what's what. If it overheats again, you should test for various problems, like bad head gasket, or hopefully stuck thermostat or non-functioning cooling fan.
  • moonzemoonze Posts: 3
    Hey Mr_Shift i wanna thank you for your advice on using the freeze stuff. Bought some this morning, along with a box wrench set, (14mm for that nut) and applied the stuff to it. Tapped it with a hammer ever so lightly, and sprayed it again. One more tap for good luck and then placed the box wrench on it. That nut didnt know what hit it, but next thing you know, it came loose and my water pump is now free. Thanks again for the great advice.
  • geez123geez123 Posts: 4
    It wasn't overheated probably not more than 5 minutes. I'm waiting for the hood the cool down before opening the hood. I will let you know what I see when I open the hood. I try to keep safety first. :)

    If it was a bad head gasket, isn't that a big repair?
    I'm hoping it was a hose that collapsed.

    Trying to figure out what would be my limit? Repair it or not? Everything else in the car except radio works. I'm deaf so conked out radio makes no difference for me.

    This car is my first car and I have sentimental value for this car.

    Thanks! I will post back tomorrow.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,656
    Since you know the car's history, a head gasket repair might be worth it--presuming the body is decent, tires okay, etc.

    You might have just busted a hose or something. No reason to be alarmed at this point.
  • lizard4lizard4 Posts: 3
    I bought my fiancee a '92 Honda LX and he has had it for a few weeks when it would start up, drive about 10 feet and would stall. It would start right up again, but when put in gear, even neutral, it would stall again. It still would turn over, though. My fiancee's friend says it is the fuel pump, but I had that problem before and it would not even turn over if it was the fuel pump. I thought it might be the fuel filter, since the car had 122,000 miles on it. I don't think the timing belt has been replaced on it yet, but was planning on doing it soon before this mishap. Any suggestions?
  • dumbheredumbhere Posts: 4
    How about the fuel pump relay box under the dash?.......JAT :sick:
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    Hi all,
    My 93' Honda Accord EX is now shifting a lot when driving. It starts out smooth and then jerks a lot with the D4 light blinking like crazy. I took out the TCM and ECM boxes just to unplug and plug back to see and nothing. What can it be? I replaced the fuel pump a year ago. Can it go bad already?

    please help
  • kkay2kkay2 Posts: 7
    Hi, I recently acquired a 90 Honda Accord and the ignition key keeps sticking when I want to turn it off and remove the key. I know you have to press in and then turn, but even when I do this it still won't come out. It gets very frustrating especially when I'm running late and can't get the key out. If I'm patient and keep trying over and over, it eventually turns all the way and then can be removed. I hope I don't break it off one of these days out of anger & frustration! Would WD40 work? Thanks, K.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,656
    No! NEVER EVER put WD-40 in a lock.

    What you want to try is a graphite lock lubricant (any hardware store).

    Careful it can be messy, so hold a paper towel around the tube when you squeeze it, and don't overdue it. And work the key back and forth, then clean the key off before putting it in your pocket or purse.

    If that doesn't work, you'll need a new key and cylinder probably. Have a locksmith look it over.
  • lizard4lizard4 Posts: 3
    We're looking into it right now. My fiancee has it towed back to our house today.
  • dumbheredumbhere Posts: 4
    Had to replace mine also,not that big of a job if you have a manual.....mine would not come out unless P as in park was lit up on dash..... :cry:
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    Hi all,
    Before I go purchase this part, I wanted your input on this first. Should I buy a ECM unit on Ebay for $35.00? I'm about 65% sure it's the ecm that's gone bad on my 93 accord. I get the blinky D4 light and my car is jerky when driving.
    Please input on this

  • gojacketsgojackets Posts: 23
    Flashing D4 along with crazy shifting from the transmission generally means trouble related to the transmission control computer - not the ECM. You need to jump the diagnosis connection - a 2 pin female connection under the passenger side of the dash - it's blue. There are links on the internet for reading the number of flashes and determining "possible" sources of the trouble (though I have been fighting mine for 6 months).
  • The heater/defroster fan (guessing here) quit working week ago. Checked the fuse and it's fine. Was suggested it might be the relay. Husband will fix himself if he knows where relay is and how to check it. Help!
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