Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • I have a 93 accord ex. It ran fine until my alternator went out. I changed the alternator today and belts. it started fine, but a belt needed adjustment. So like an idiot I didn't disconnect the battery and used a steel bar to nudge the alternator out a little, well it touched a piece on the alternator and sparks came form the battery. I then tried to start it and no power anywhere, lights horn, windows, locks all out. I cahnged out the battery after and nothing. Then I checked all the fuses inside and under the hood. I did find the battery fuse blown an 80A, then changed that. I even tried to jump the battery but still nothing. Any help would be appreciated thanks.
  • nomikalnomikal Posts: 2
    Car: 1990 Honda Accord LX automatic

    Ok, the problem is that sometimes when I start my car the rpms in the tachtometer fluctuate up and down from around 1,000 rpms to 2500-3000 rpms or so. I'm not sure as to what the problem is?

    -Thanks ahead of time.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    doesn't the compressor need refrigerant and associated oil for lubrication and sealing? having the clutch not engage is a good thing when pressure is lost. i agree with you mrbill. amazon has probably got a good leak somewhere.
  • amazonamazon Posts: 293
    This is weird.... YOu touched a part of the alternator, and you shorted something???

    BTW, there's no need to use a pry bar when adjusting the belts. Just loosen the nu holding the shaft under the alternator (shaft positioned parallel to the alternator), and use a 10mm socket with a ratchet on teh adjustment bolt (Perpendicular to the alternator) under the alternator and tighten the belt.
  • It appears that while prying on the alternator you somehow made contact with the output terminal. This wire connects to the battery through the 80A fuse in the fuse block.

    If your entire electrical system is dead, it is
    very likely that you fried the positive battery cable connecting to the fuse block before the fuse could blow (as evidenced by the sparks coming from your battery terminal). Hopefully this is the only damage.

    To check this, use a multimeter or test lamp and check for 12 volts at the two input terminals on the forward side of the fuse block.
  • Could this be the same for a 93' Accord? One day last week my car wouldn't start with out cranking it longer than usual. I would crank for about 10-15 seconds and then turn it off. I tried not to panic and tried again. About the thrid time doing this it started right up. I havn't driven it for a week because I wasn't trusting it. I just got in it just a bit ago and it started right up every time. I know that what ever it is I can pretty much rule out the battery because it cranks, the starter because it sounds good and is trying to start, the main relay because I can hear it building pressure. I don't think a tune up would hurt but still probably not the problem. I feel like it is just either not getting gas or it is getting gas and not firing. That leaves me with a fuel pump or distributor right? If you or anyone else out there knows or has any ideas please let me know.


  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    I would check for spark. You can get these gizmos that go inline with the spark plug wire before the plug itself from HFT that will flash when the spark goes through. If that flashes, you have spark.
    I have had a few of these and never had a fuel pump go out. The main relay I have replaced on each. There is a procedure in the Haynes manual to test for voltage at the fuel pump. When you turn the key from off to on before crank, you should hear the pump kick on. If you don't, my guess would be you aren't getting gas and you need a main relay.
    Relay is $70 and is on the inside of the firewall above the clutch. It took me about 45 minutes to change the thing (you have to take the plastic cover under the bottom of the dash off).
    BTW, I did a post mortem on the relay. It has solder cracks around two of the terminals where there wasn't enough material to support thermal loading. Had I known, I would've just pulled the existing one, re soldered all the connections and put it back in. This is a pretty common problem of you google for it.
  • donswartzdonswartz Posts: 28
    Please help me. I have a 1991 honda accord and my seat belt lights flashes and the alarm sounds. I have automatic belts. When I open the passenger's side door the sound and blinking will still continue. When I open the driver's side door it stops. When it is blinking and flashing I disconnect the driver's side selt belt and nothing happens and if I disconnect the belt on the passenger's side the light goes solid. I have taken out both seats. The harnesses below the seats are contected. I plugged and unplugged the wires from the seat belt control unit under the passenger's seat. I have read a lot of people are having problems with this just haven't been able to find the answer. Please I beg you please help. Thanks.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    "Please I beg you please help" is rather desperate. That chime must really annoy you. ;)

    perhaps there are limit switche(s) in the belt runs that detect end of travel.

    maybe one of them is disconnected or broken. here's a picture: cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1991&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=SEAT+BELT+%28- 1%29

    this diagram seems to suggest only one switch per belt run at the front of travel (closest to the front of the car). hazarding a guess, the switch isn't changing continuity as the belt moves off the full open position towards the "buckled-up" position at the back of the door/window frame.

    looks like the switches are pretty cheap. installing / removing them? dunno if it's a DIY project or not. i suppose if i could get at the switch and determine how it functioned, i might modify the circuit to bypass it (don't know off hand if that means shorting the contacts together, or making sure they are always seperated. but the $22.00 is probably worth it to fix it rather than mod it. ;)
  • I just bought a 1990 Honda Accord EX. it has 225,000 miles on it. it is just a work car. I drove it to work, after about 3 hours I left work and my car would not start. It would just turn over. I left the car there and came back to get it 1 1/2 days later. I tried to start it, and it started fine. I then changed out the spark plugs, air filter and changed the oil. I drove for about 1 week. Then I was going home from work and I made a stop to turn around and the car quit. It would not re-start. I came back to it the next day. And I replaced the fuel filter. It still will not start. I sprayed starting fluid in the air intake line and the car would start for a second, then quit. I beleave I am not getting any fuel. But I have been told there are many reasons why I would not be getting fuel. Is there anyone out there that would now what would be wrong. Or how to test the parts to see if they are working. Like the fuel pump. Please help. Thank You
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 818
    I've seen many complaints of the fuel pump relay failing on late 80's early 90's Accords.

    My 88 isn't fuel injected so I'm not sure the exact location of the relay, I think it may be located under the dash, drivers side.

  • donswartzdonswartz Posts: 28
    I have a 1991 honda accord. The car would not start during the summer one year. I would work all day and go out to my car and it would not turn over. I would try to jump the car and nothing. I read somewhere that the master relay, found under the dash on the driver's side on the left side of the car, goes bad and won't start during hot days. I replaced it and haven't had a problem since. I think I paid about $60 for the part. I hope this helps.

    If anyone has any suggestions about my selt belt alarm I would love to know how to fix it. Read my previous message about 4 up. Thanks for anyones help.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    did you see my post after yours re: the seatbelt alarm?
  • donswartzdonswartz Posts: 28
    Yes thanks for the post. It is a little more complicated than I can understand. I don't know anything about jumping circuits and all. I will replace a part if I need to I was just not following what you were saying. I appreciate the time you took to look into the situation. Thanks.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    there is a switch in the run of the seatbelt latch. either the switch opens (to inhibit the flow of current in the ckt) when the latch starts to move to the back of the window, or the switch closes (to allow the current to flow in the ckt). The ckt (short-hand for circuit) is the one which the belt monitor checks to make sure you have your belts on.

    i'm thinking the problem may be in the switch in the run, and not in the seat.

    pass the information to someone a bit more familiar with vehicle wiring. maybe they can help. good luck.
  • lilengineerboylilengineerboy Posts: 4,116
    see post #151. Dollars to donuts its the main relay. Under dash along firewall above clutch area.
  • I have a 1990 Honda accord lx with problems. The car revs up to 2700rpm then drops to 900 over and over. This makes the car overheat on my drive to school (about 8 blocks). I need to fix it fast and cheap, please help. The car starts without incident. I think the problem begins when the car gets warm and it doesnt stop. The engine revs and drops while driving, in park and in neutral. Any help would be great.
  • There is an access panel in the trunk to get to the fuel pump :) . I disconnected the electric connection. There are three wires. a red, a black, and a yellow. with a volt meter. I put my black probe on the black wire and the red probe on the red wire. I got about 24 VAC with the ignition in the on position. Then I moved the red probe to the yellow wire and I am getting about 13 VAC. since I am getting current at the connection, then is my main fuel relay good? Also is the voltage reading correct. Also I am not hearing the pump come on. :sick: Does anyone have any suggestions on this. and where can I get a cheap fuel pump that works? again Thank You for any Help.
  • nhra62nhra62 Posts: 2
    i have a 1990 accord and when I am driving at about 70mph on freeway tach is about 3000rpm and will go up to about 4000rpm by itself but car stays the same speed. where is the tach connected? Why would this happen.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Can you tell if the engine is changing RPMS at all (listen for engine-racing) or is it just an instrumentation problem? I don't know the fix either way, but it might help others figure it out.
Sign In or Register to comment.