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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    This site has a lot of information on 4th gen Accords (including the dreaded "S" light, in the transmission section). It could help both of you diagnose your problems. Good luck
  • I took the car to a new mechanic. He took a look, cleaned off the leaking fluid and said come back in a few days so we can see better where the leak is.

    After taking another look when I got back he took a look at the transmission lines and said it could be the old rubber/synthetic lines connecting the metal lines. Replacing that was $minimal.

    It's now been over a year and there are no leaks.


  • My wife had to have the car jumped. Since there has been no chime when lights are left on, the code light for the Bose radio is on but it won't accept the code, the interior cabin light doesn't come on, nor the green ignition light when the car is unlocked and door opened.

    I've checked all the fuses I can find but seen no problems.

    What could be next?


  • I've heard from multiple sources that if your battery isn't good, then your alternator can quit on you rather quickly (as in a couple of hours even). So then your car runs off of the battery, draining it. My suggestion is: take it to your local Autozone (or equivalent), they should be able to test your whole charging system while its on the vehicle. My other suggestion is to replace the battery, alternator, and belt as a whole and clean your battery terminals with a post cleaner tool, and to remove corrosion use some baking soda and water and scrub with a tooth brush. As for your s light and your check engine light, on the passenger side, around the corner of the firewall and the door, there is a blue connector that doesn't go to anything (you may have to move the carpet) use a paper clip to bridge the terminals and turn the key to the on position (don't start the car). both lights will flash out a code, long flash for the first number in a two digit code; short flashes for the second digit. take them to Autozone or a high reputation shop. They should tell what they mean. Hope this helps! :lemon:
  • A piece of information I neglected to include was this was over 1 year ago that the car was jumped. I haven't driven it until recently when I noticed the problems with the radio, chimes, etc.

    So, I suspect the battery is 'good enough'. It's just that I miss the radio, and the chimes that remind when the lights are left on would help prevent another incident like the one that started this.


  • Now, there's something new. I've been driving the car since June, that's about 6 months and this morning when I was leaving I noticed the green ignition light was on for the first time. Also, the car started immediately where is usually takes a second or so.

    Later I attempted to input the code for the Bose radio, and it worked. The chime worked for the headlights as well.

    Does this sound like a weak batter or failing alternator as mentioned above.

    Thanks for any response.

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Weak battery, or loose/corroded connections could be the cause. A weak battery was causing strange things on my 03.
  • Try cleaning your battery and terminals first. Then try charging your battery with a good charger (not one of those wimpy float chargers). It will take a full night to fully charge (don't go by any indicators on the charger, it needs to deep charge). Then before you go out and buy a battery or alternator, save yourself some cash and have your battery and charging system tested. Most major auto parts places (like Autozone) should do it for free. Hope this helps! :lemon:
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    All good suggestions, and in this order too.
  • w9qw9q Posts: 2
    Hi all!
    When it is dark, I can illuminate the numbers on my tachometer and speedometer by turning the dimmer switch. But the needle pointers are not illuminated! I just can't see them in the night unless I turn on interior lighting. Are the gauge needles supposed to be illuminated?
    Thanks a lot
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Illuminated gauge needles didn't appear until 1998. You shouldn't have a problem seeing them since they are lighted from above/front.
  • w9qw9q Posts: 2
    thegraduate, thanks! So the needles are supposed to be illuminated from above/front of the instrument panel, but they are not. Which means that I'll probably have to find and replace the above/front bulbs, right?

    Do I have to remove console, radio, then instrumental panel, then disassemble the instrumental panel to access the lamps, or is there a short cut?
    Thanks a lot.
  • There are two bulbs illuminating (or supposed to be illuminating) your needles. Some of them have these gel cap things, I think to reduce the amount of light reflected at you. I just went through this myself. Yes you have to remove the whole instrument panel/radio trim piece to access the instrument cluster. There are some cleverly hidden screws to undo, so don't force it out until you know you got them all. It would also help if you remove the cover on the steering column. Basically there are screws in all the vents on the trim piece, and behind all the switches, and you will have to remove the center console cover to get the radio out. I would check all the bulbs because when I changed one burned out one, then I haggled the stuff back together, ant three more had burned out. also, if you take off the clear cover, make sure you don't bump the gas gauge. It will stay at the level you bumped it at. There are no shortcuts that I know of. Hope this helps! :lemon:
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I think oldschool90 can take you from here. I've never replaced them myself (I had one of four burn out in my '96 and paid through the nose to get it replaced). Lots of labor involved.
  • Hi all,
    I went to my mechanic and mentioned my TCM is acting up with the blinky D4 light.
    He tells me it can only be two things, tranny or silenoids. He gave me a $69 quote to diagnose the silenoids. what to do?
  • Unless your mechanic actually pulled the codes from the computer, he is wrong and you need a new mechanic.

    Your TCM is indicating a fault somewhere which you can determine by jumping the diagnostic connection with a paper clip. Depending on the number of flashes, you can (perhaps) diagnose the problem. Note - it is seldom the transmission itself.
  • Hey Gojackets,

    Thanks for your input. If I'm not mistaken, the code 14 came up on my Accord. My Honda book says code is the IAC valve. Can you verify this? Is this a costly thing to check and fix? Thanks

  • Sounds like you might be reading the wrong code in the book. If your looking at the D4 or S light, your probably looking at the engine trouble codes in the book. The IAC valve controls some of the airflow to the engine according to it's temperature. It's a $250 (give or take a few) part to replace new. :lemon:
  • Is the car fixed?
  • hi

    nope, car is not fixed yet. I've noticed in cooler weather, the D4 light is not blinking, so it's sort of fixed temporarily.
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