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Honda Accord (1990-1993) Maintenance and Repair



  • Don't let your tank get down to 1/4

    Sounds like a bad gas cap or one that's not tightened completely. Second guess is that your fuel filter needs replacing. Less fuel in the tank means lower vapor pressure in the fuel system (and I am an engineer, FWIW). A clue might be when you are gassing up - normally, you should hear a "hiss" when you open the cap on this car.
  • lizz1234lizz1234 Posts: 13
    would replacing the fuel pump help? and if so, should i get electric or mechanical?
  • I've got a 91 Accord EX 150k miles. I need new front brake pads and rotors and rear brake pads. The Meineke mechanic there's something special about the rotors from this period and most shops don't have to equipment to repair/replace them. Is this true? He wants $400 to do the job which seems like a lot especially since I was hoping not to spend more on this one while I save for another. Is what he said about the rotors true? How simple of a task is this for a novice?
  • klordklord Posts: 6
    That's true. I went through this last year. I spent over 550 to get new front rotors and pads. What makes it so expensive, they said, is that the rotors are "pressed" on (like with a machine press) and thus hard to remove/replace.

    Newer Hondas do not have this problem, the rotors are now held on by screws, I just redid all pads and rotors on my 01 accord and was able to do it myself for under 200.
  • Thanks for the info klord. Because of it, I was able to do some useful research!
  • worldecmworldecm Posts: 2
    edited September 2010
    One of the most miss understood things about the car computers I rebuild is. If you open the case and touch the board a tiny spark of static electricity could flow from your fingers to the circuit board and through the main processor and damage it. Once that happens you can throw the unit away. Thats why I don't ever advise a customer to open the case and look around. More times then not they will see something they want to touch and thats it they killed it.

    It's not a good idea to open the box for other reasons like what are you going to do anyways once you get inside it? The parts for these units are not sold at radio shack. The suppliers who deal with have a minimum order of $1,000 to buy components. The cost of getting a rebuilt unit is so reasonable when you take all the facts into account. Like what if a professional tech ruins the unit. Well that can happen and at that point we have to eat it. We also use special agents to strip the board from the enamel coating that seals the circuit board. After we are done working on the unit we seal it again with a acrylic coating to seal and protect the board. Once again most customers will not have or use these items so the job is not done right by this point alone.

    Any ECm or ECU, TCM, BCM etc unit 5 years or older needs to be rebuilt or it can just miss function and or die while your on the road and cause a accident or get you stuck some place. I hope this helps you all... :) :)
  • cybercoolcybercool Posts: 117
    well I just blew my head gaskets and one mechanic gave me a $1000 is this a correct quote
  • It depends it was overheated and damage was done to the head. Get a detailed report from your mechanic and let us know.
  • astorastor Posts: 30
    Find a Honda mechanic who will do it for less. I got one of my independent Honda mechanics to do my 1990 EX for $180 (brake pads+machining the rotors), rotors have to be machined while on the car. If you need to find a good independent Honda mechanic go to mechanic files. I've found quite a number of great independent Honda mechanics there.
  • kat89kat89 Posts: 1
    edited November 2010
    1993 Honda Accord Automatic
    A while ago I was grocery shopping and when I finished my car wouldn't start. I had someone give me a jump start but it did nothing. I had it brought to the mechanic, they replaced some old spark plugs and it ran fine... for about 30 minutes. It started shaking every few minutes and especially at red lights and then died on me again on my way to work. I brought it back to the mechanic and they replaced some old wires and it ran fine... for another 30 minutes. This time it wasn't shaking, but it kept stalling more and more frequently every few minutes until it was stalling every 30 seconds. My boyfriend got it home and it's been sitting uninsured for a while. My boyfriend took a look at it a few weeks ago and duct taped the air intake tube and the box so it was sealed better and it ran ok while I test drove it around the parkade for a bit, but when at idle the car got quieter and quieter like it was about to die but didn't. I just went down today to check on it and it would start again. I have no idea what is wrong with it and I can't keep spending so much money on it if the problem isn't going to get fixed. Does anyone have any ideas as to what the issue is?
    Sorry for the novel, but I wanted to make sure all of the information was there.
  • sounds like you may have an intake gasket on the manifold that may be leaking.. or some other type of vacuum leak.... based on the fact that the duct tape helped improve the problem...
  • I am looking at the response you have been getting and they are more costly than anything else, before you messes with you TCU please try the elimination process there are two solenoids one is the "shift solenoid" the other is the "lockup solenoid"
    the are part of the shifting process and if they are not communicating with the computer then the computer goes into safe mode and the car starts off in fourth gear instead of first gear, those solenoids’ are on the front of the transmission both have two bottle looking heads, it could also caused from faulty speed sensors which is on the front right side of the transmission and the other is on the back side just follow all the wires that is on the transmission both speed sensors are easy assessable when you take off the front RH wheel and remove the plastic guard, but before you do all this the D4 light flashing or stays on means there is a code set in the computer, to pull the code from the computer there is a blue plug behind the passenger kick panel (that plastic cover at the corner of the door bellow the glove box you need a small piece of wire to bridge the terminals, then switch on the key so the light in the instrument cluster comes on (do not start the car) watch the D4 light how many times it flashes long stroke means ten short stroke means one ( example: two long stroke and three short stroke means code 23) depends on how it flashes that is your code, after retrieving the code you can search online for Honda trouble codes were you will find the answer or if you have a service manual example: Hanes, Chilton and others) hope this helps. :)
  • Hi. I have a 1990 Honda accord ex. When I turn on my headlights, the dash lights & my running lights take awhile to turn on--sometimes 20 minutes. I've narrowed the problem down to a bad fuse, but I'm not sure where the fuses are, nor how to tell which one is for the lights. Any suggestions?
  • If it was a bad fuse, they would not come on at all - ever.

    Sounds more like a headlight relay

    If you want to check the fuses, there are two boxes on the '90 - one is under the hood next to the firewall on the passenger side. The box is labeled on the top for the fuse locations. The other box would be next to the driver's left leg behind the panel.
  • The latch that releases and enables me to adjust the angle of my steering wheel on my 1991 Honda Accord EX has become frozen. I don't want to force it or I might damage it. Is there an easy way to release the latch? Is the steering system otherwise safe although frozen in this manner?
  • You might try to squirt some WD-40 in there. I've never seen one of these break---they are fairly sturdy, so unless you are an extremely strong person, I don't think a pair of human hands could bust one of these very easily. Sure, if you used a ten-foot pry par, yeah, but I think it's safe to put pressure on it.

    Work safely.
  • I was driving down the highway and the car went completely dead, no lights, nothing. What could be the problem? Incidently, when I push the brake pedal, the dash lights would dim, this was before it died this morning.
  • Hmmm....I wonder if your alternator had died and you were running for the last day on battery power? You might try charging the battery, tightening up the battery cables and see if it starts. If so, then I'd check the charging circuit.
  • I am looking for help on a few issues I am having with my 1990 Honda Accord.

    Recently I noticed that my Honda wouldn't let me take the key out of the ignition and thought it was the break switch which had broke off...this has sense been repaired. So now I still have some issues with it getting stuck..but if I wiggle it some it will eventually click into Park and let me take key out.

    Also the car seems to be shifting hard and the check engine light comes on at about 50 to 60 will then go out once the car is shut off and doesn't come back on until around 60 mph the S light came on at the same time and was flashing. I replaced the TCU about 5 years ago....but when it went bad I couldn't get it to go into gear at all....the RPM's would rev up and I would be going down the road and it would change to a low gear...I haven't had those issues so far. When I shut the car off the S light didn't come back on again with the engine light?

    I attempted to find the blue connector thing under the passenger side so that I could find out what the check engine code was but was not successful in find it.

    While looking for that I noticed there is a wet floorboard on the passenger side found another issue....the windows have been fogging up more on the inside lately but the heat is still working. Would a leaking heater core be the issue and would that cause me issues with the TCU possibly?

    Trying to figure out how much more money I should put in this old car….I have already did a good bit of front end work and it still needs tires balanced and struts…

    Thanks for any info you can give on these issues!
  • I sent you an e-mail with a photo of the data link connection so that you can find it.

    Visiting Host
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