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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,116
In order to make the original and highly popular “Honda Accord Owners: Problems and Solutions” forum more manageable, we are dividing that forum into “Accord generations”.

Please make sure you are in the right generation for your Accord, and then post your questions concerning any maintenance or repair item.

Thank you again for helping to make the Accord forums so great here at Edmunds!

MrShiftright
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MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

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Comments

  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 700
    That was a good move. Certainly owners of this certain generation of Acord have a LOT to share and help each other....
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Great idea, I have a 1996 LX auto 4-door. Will post here a lot! (hopefully not, though)
  • Thinking of buying a 97 4cyl auto SE. Went to the probs and solutions page. Holy cow...thousands of posts. Too much to wade through in a week. Can any give me insight of what to look for as far a problem areas on these cars to look for. I currently have a 97 Olds Aurora that has finally kicked me in the wallet for the last time and I am going to fix it for the last time and get rid of this beautiful but expensive car (to keep up). I am looking at a Honda as I understand they are very reliable and hold resale value (which I cant say of my Aurora). Specifically, looking at a 97 accord SE 4cyl Auto. From the little bit I know, the Tranny may be the problem area with these cars. Any adivce would be greatly appreciated.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I have an auto-equipped 4-cyl accord as well. Its a 1996, purchased late 1995, and has the same 130 hp engine as the 97 SE. After 155,000 miles, the tranny has given me no problem at all. It has not been babied, but driven in rush hour 70 miles a day, 5x a week. I've spent less than $500 in repairs over the life of the car (other than tires and brakes). You are making a good choice for reliability, but I imagine the lack of horsepower will be evident, coming from the Aurora.
  • My 95 V-6 Accord has a starting problem occasionally. It cranks but sometimes does not fire up. Sometimes it stalls out after it's been driven for sometime. Also, after it has warmed up, it feels like it misfires but there's no pattern at all to the seeming misfires. I thought the difficulty firing up might be due to cold mornings but a couple of cans of dri-gas has not prevented the starting problem, and neither has a mild day.
    Most times it starts but some mornings it leaves us without the use of a car. And sometimes trying it again a few hours later will start it up. Has anyone had this problem and what did you do to solve it?
    Thanks,
    Smarin
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 700
    Your car may need a tune up...

    But then it might have some typical problems of many '95 V6 models that are covered under Honda's Service Bulletin 98-081. Check with your Honda Service.

    I am not sure, but I think they will take care of it under an extended warranty that was granted to owners of this (and several other '95-'96-'97) model -- BUT ONLY IF THE "CHECK ENGINE" LIGHT COMES UP.
  • My 95 Accord EX has gone from getting about 31 mpg hwy to about 26. I believe the problem is that the RPM's used to be at about 2500 at about 64 mph and I could noticably feel the RPM's kick downward. Now, the RPM's are at about 2750 at 64 mph. I was wondering if anyone had an idea about why the RPM's don't kick down like they used to?
  • My guess is your lock-up torque converter isn't locking up.

    I'm assuming your 95 uses a lock-up converter, although not familiar with that year.

    Mrbill
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I know my 96 uses one, but it is the 2.2liter 4 cyl. I would agree with MrBill
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    That 250 engine RPM increase at your referenced vehicle speed is smack-dab in line with torque converter lockup not occuring as expected. It's possible a sensor failed and the transmission control module simply isn't getting an expected signal that would prompt it to engage TC lockup. On the other hand, given the car's age, it's possible the tranny, itself, is getting ready to
    tank. ($-$-$-$-$!) You won't know where you really stand until you have tranny fault codes read and interpreted by a dealer or an independent transmission shop specialist.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    May I ask how many miles are on the car? Mine are at 155,000, and no tranny troubles yet, although it has had mostly highway miles (29mpg avg over its life). I've kept records!!! Thanks earnesty
  • Thanks, mamamia, but what exactly does the service bulletin 98-081 cover? BTW, tune up is not likely the problem. The problem existed before the present ignition parts. Got a tune up hoping the problem would go away but it didn't. The full tune up (incl. all ignition wires, plugs, rotor, rotor cover, coil) also fuel filter, an expensive relay part --can't remember the name-- was about 11,000 miles ago.
  • Graduate, My Accord has about 183,000 miles and has never given me any trouble. Mostly highway miles also. Would the dealer be able to distinguish between a tranny problem and the torque converter? Also, what type of cost are we talking about for the torque converter?

    Thanks
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I'm afraid I don't know about the cost for the torque converter. As far as the dealer knowing, I can't really know, but I'd definitely get more than one opinion on it before spending a bunch of cash.
  • 1995 accord ex 2.2 4 cyl vtech automatic. 1500-2600 rpm the motor
    sputers, acts like it is only running on 3 cyls had it on the scope 2 times
    at two differant dealers they could not find a problem. very,very poor
    gas milage. and it only does it when its in gear or under load. this is
    driving me crazy. ive replased all tune up parts, cap,rotor.wires,plugs
    gas filter,air filter.dont know what else to do really love the car.
    hate to get rid of it. butt my old chevy pick up gets better milage. HELP
    PLEASE !!!!!!
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 700
    what exactly does the service bulletin 98-081 cover?

    --It covers emission issues, which in reality is a LOT... I got the list and it's really long... And it gives me an extended warranty up to 150,000 miles, or 14 years... Pretty nice... I already had my Distributor and Speed Sensor replaced, and a free Tune Up at 75,000.

    Do a Google on this...

    BUT, as much as I understand (though not totally sure), you going to a Honda Service, complaining about the car is not gonna make them pull out service bulletin 98-081... You need to have the "Check Engine" light to come on. Again, not positively sure...

    Check with a Honda Service. You've got nothing to lose.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 700
    ...Forgot to mention all 6 fuel injectors being replaced free under this serive bulletin at around 74,000 miles, when the car stalled and the Check Engine light came on....
  • I have a 94 Honda Accord 125,000 mile never had a major repair. I just had to replace the exhaust a few weeks ago. All of a sudden coincidentally it started making a loud noise and started to stall here and there. Got the exaust fixed from front to back. It didn't stall the first few times out but today it is stalling frequently. I filled it with gas and added dry gas last week. It seemed to help, but now it is stalling even more. It seems to be when I am slowing down and press the accelerator to get going again. It stalled once on the highway I was on cruise doing 65 and accelerated to pass. That was pretty scary. It starts right back up once it has been turned off pause for a minute.I have a very fixed income and wondered if anyone might have a clue.?
    Thanks,
    J.e.d.
  • I have a 97 accord coupe with about 160K. When locking my power locks, the door lock actuator in the passenger side door makes a loud buzzing sound.
    I took apart the door panel and looked at the necessary steps in service manual.
    I have the option to buy a replacement actuator or a new latch with an actuator already attached.

    72115-SV2-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., R. DOOR LOCK $88.45
    72110-SV2-013 LOCK ASSY., R. FR. POWER DOOR $136.53

    I would prefer to buy just the actuator and attach it to the old latch. (would save me about $50). Can anyone attest to the difficulty in doing this? Or is it best to replace the entire module (latch + actuator completely assembled).

    Also when removing the outdoor door handle (necessary to replace the actuator), there are two bolts (accessed from inside the door) any tips in how on how to remove the hard-to-reach bolt?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I have a 97 accord coupe with about 160K. When locking my power locks, the door lock actuator in the passenger side door makes a loud buzzing sound.
    I took apart the door panel and looked at the necessary steps in service manual.
    I have the option to buy a replacement actuator or a new latch with an actuator already attached.

    72115-SV2-003 ACTUATOR ASSY., R. DOOR LOCK $88.45
    72110-SV2-013 LOCK ASSY., R. FR. POWER DOOR $136.53

    I would prefer to buy just the actuator and attach it to the old latch. (would save me about $50). Can anyone attest to the difficulty in doing this? Or is it best to replace the entire module (latch + actuator completely assembled).

    Also when removing the outdoor door handle (necessary to replace the actuator), there are two bolts (accessed from inside the door) any tips in how on how to remove the hard-to-reach bolt?


    I don't know, but my actuator has died in my 96 sedan (156k miles) on the right rear door, too. The dealer quoted me $220 to fix it. I left it alone.
  • haefrhaefr Posts: 600
    Call around to area auto recyclers ("junk yards"). Even if you guys have to pay someone to install a used replacememnt, I believe you'd still be money ahead over what take-yer-money-ships would charge to install a new one.
  • I have a 94 Accord LX that was experiencing random stalling while driving at different speeds. However, it didn't seem to happen during acceleration, it was purely random.

    I checked several different things including the ignition coil and fuel injector circuits, but finally replaced the distributor as a last ditch effort. After replacing the distributor nearly one year ago, I haven't experienced the stall problem again. If you narrow it down to the distributor, I recommend purchasing from Distributor King (I bought through them on Ebay). The distributor was high quality, but low $$$.
  • stump21stump21 Posts: 41
    Has everyone changed their timing belt before 105,000 miles or have some people gone longer than this? I have a 1997 Accord that is due but I have talked to some people that say to wait. Any help?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    you want someone to tell you that it's OK to wait? why don't you follow the recommended maintenance interval in your owner's manual?
  • The milage number in the owners manual does have a margin of safety built into it, but how much is anyones guess. I put 120k on my 88 Accord before I changed it, not that I was trying to save money, I just totally forgot about it till then.

    The cost of changing it now will be far less then the cost to repair the engine if the belt were to break.

    Belt replacement isn't that complicated, so don't rule out going somewhere other then the dealer if money is an issue.

    If your considering doing it yourself, you should be able to replace all belts, water pump, and in my case a valve cover gasket all for under $100 (non Honda parts)

    Mrbill
  • stump21stump21 Posts: 41
    Just a little tight on money there toughguy. I saw a couple previous posters have high mileage on the same engine so I was hoping to stretch it until taxes are back. Judging from your past responses you seem to be a "by the book" person which is great for your perfect world. But the fact I am driving a 1997 high-mileage car should give you a clue as to why I am asking. Just don't have the $$ at the moment.

    mrbill1957 - On the other hand I would like to thank you for your response. I am hoping the 105,000 is not the exploding point!
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I have had mine changed at 88,000 miles. If I'm not mistaken, isn't the recommendation at 60,000 miles? I have 156,000 and am on belt number two with no probs.
  • I have a leak in my radiator on my 97 Accord with 165K.
    I have done other repairs on my car and I am considering attempting this on my own.
    Especially when my dealer want $500 installed.
    I have looked at my Honda service manual and it seems straight forward.
    Basically:
    Drain coolant.
    Remove all hoses connected to radiator.
    Remove all fan harnesses.
    Remove radiator mounts.
    Remove radiator with fans attached.
    Remove fans from radiator and install on new radiator.
    Install in reverse order.

    * Can anyone recommend an aftermarket radiator that installed easily into a 94-97 Accord?
    * To anyone who has done this type of repair and run into any type of complications, any additional tips would be helpfull.
    * One thing I would like to do is find a way to keep the transmission fluid from leaking out of the hose once I remove it from the radiator. I also plan to protect the fins with a piece of cardboard when installing the new radiator.
  • Another minor possibility (though it has saved both me and a friend in the past) is that the converter cannot lock due to the fact that the engine has not warmed up sufficiently. Check your thermostat (or just change it since it's cheap). Mine and a friend's stuck open and the only time you couldn't get TCC lock-up was in weather below 60F. That made for an interesting trouble-shooting process. Anyway, replaced the T-stat and that nice RPM drop returned ;)

    hopefully its that!
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    no desire to come off as a toughguy. thought your motivation was other than it is. sincere apologies.

    btw: i drove my 1994 Accord LX Couple until I had a failure of the Cam Shaft (not the pully, not the timing belt, but the shaft effectively snapped). I know what happens when the valve timing is instantly and completely gone in an interference design. The lights, the sound, and the visuals with the engine cover off... the effect isn't pretty.

    I would have driven the car for another 150K if that bizarre failure didn't happen...it had 150K on it. it was super reliable, got great mileage, was fun to drive, perfect for my needs.

    i sold my toyota corolla with 175K on it in very good condition, only stepping to a van when i couldn't get the kids in the back seat of that one, or the accord.

    w.r.t. critical maintenance, i do believe in following the book that's a true assessment. guilty. it's possible for the '94 the interval might have been 60K. i'm sure i went over 10K by the book. guess i must have been doing the same sort of thing as you.

    i do understand - specially if money is tight.

    again, my sincere apologies.
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