Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

1121315171862

Comments

  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Any idea how easy it is to replace the light bulb that lights up my Automatic's gears on the console (not the dash indicator)? I'm referring to the bulb that lights this part up (the PRND4,D3,2,1):

    image\

    Mine is a 1996 LX Auto. Thanks!
  • My 94 Honda Accord EX has 245,000 miles, runs great. 2 years ago it passed inspection but the NOX was at 996. Standard is 1006. Today it failed at 1987, almost double. Still running fine. HC and CO% readings perfect. Any help with fix to repair on my own????
  • vcarrerasvcarreras Posts: 247
    I was driving to work yesterday and I noticed the door locks unlocking and locking again within seconds. During time I "thought" I noticed the tac and speedometer go to zero. Well I drove home last night, no problems, but coming to work today about a mile from home it died! In trying to restart it would catch but immediely die again. I noticed that holding the switch in the start position the engine would run but when I let it go it would stall again. I got it towed to a Honda mechanic, not dealer and he stated immediately that it was a bad ignition switch. There is a "recall" on 1997-2002 Honda's for faulty ignition switch. I called Honda Customer Service and they stated my VIN number was not covered. The part costs $40 but with labor will cost $160. Anyone else had this problem??

    My Accord has been excellent, bought new 12/29/94 and now has 116K. Have had new CV joints, master brake cylinder and brake pads changed during that time.

    I also own a 2007 Honda FIT Sport which I love..I should say my wife loves, she won't let me drive it.. :cry:
  • jjv99jjv99 Posts: 33
    Everything indicates that the problem is your ignition switch based on what you've described; but the only thing that pays my attention is that a faulty ignition switch has nothing to do with your lock system (they are in different circuits....unless you have some security system installed that controls doors and the ignition of the car) and also, I have never seen an ignition switch dying suddenly (usually it starts failing little by little.
    I will suggest the following:
    - Its known that Honda accord ignition switch had a flaw for models of those years; and also that you could increase the switch to fail if you have too much weight in your key ring. Try cutting the "fat" of your key ring.
    - Try using a electrical contact cleaner. There is a post in this forum with the details on how to do it.
    - Check your alternator and battery. I have the suspicion that your alternator (and the voltage regulator) has failed and maybe the reason for that strange behavior of your electrical door lock is because of that (maybe some over voltage from the alternator which at the end has damage the ignition switch). If you found that this is what it happen then correct this first before changing anything (most probably there could be some other problems....maybe sensor that has been damaged).
    My Accord is the same model but a 95 and with 145k. I have never experience your problem but I have learned a lot of my electrical system due to a problem that so far no mechanic has been able to fix....it is a random problem.
    Let us know what you find. Good Luck!!
  • vcarrerasvcarreras Posts: 247
    My Accord does have a security system, dealer installed, that when the car is started the doors lock immediately. The car started having problems about a week ago when it took about three tries to start. But the real problem did not start until last Monday when I was washing it and the doors locked. The keys were inside but not in the ignition. I had to get my wifes keys to unlock it. I will have my Honda certified, but not dealer mechanic, check everything out this morning before I pick it up. I will let you know what he finds out. I just hope this is not the beginning of problems. It has been so dependable giving me 28-30mpg back and forth to work.
    Thanks..
  • dixeedixee Posts: 3
    1996 Honda Accord LX with some sort of electrical issues. For unknown reasons the doors lock/unlock, lock/unlock, lock/unlock repeatedly for a minute or so at a time. This can happen while driving, parked, etc. The ghost is locking and unlocking my doors to the point of killing my battery and alarm system.

    HELP!! Does anyone have any answers?
  • dridmangdridmang Posts: 10
    How often is the oxygen sensor suppose to be changed? I heard that pre 1985 cars are supposed to be changed every 30,000 miles and pre 1990 every 60,000 and pre 1996 are supposed to be changed every 100,000 miles.

    I get terrible gas mileage on my 1994 accord auto ex. Complete tune-up have been done along with a new catalytic converter and exhaust manifold. Are there any problems that can cause bad gas mileage getting 15 miles per gallon. Thanks
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    do you have a key fob? if so, leave it at home. use just your key. if the ghost goes away, you know where it lives (i mean haunts).

    if you don't have a key fob, my thinking is there is wire crimping to one of the doors, probably the drivers or front passengers for the lock/unlock, or possibly, there is a defective switch in one of those doors for same.
  • jjv99jjv99 Posts: 33
    Check the codes of your computer. Most of the times, the computer will detect any unusual readings from the sensors.
    Also take out your spark plug and check its condition ....I know that you have done a complete tune up but you never told us how was the state of the s.plugs. By checking its state (physical state of the electrodes...it is very important to take note of the color that you see) you could tell exactly what is the problem during combustion. Also, include all the details that has been done in your "complete tune up".
    Checking the state of the sensor is not difficult; but before concluding that the problem is your O.sensor; you need to check the following (these are the main reason why you could have a high fuel consumption):
    - Dirty or clogged air filter
    - wrong Ignition timing
    - Errors returned by the computer (also known as ECM).
    - Prob. in the fuel injection system (most of the times the ECM will detect problems with it also).
    - Low tire pressure
    - Fuel leak.
    - Emission system problems (the O.sensor check is part of this item)

    About changing the O.Sensor after certain number of miles it depends if you are rich or not....lol...just kidding. Usually the only components that you need to replace after certain number of miles without checking its state are the ones that if it fails could produce a bigger problem (i.e. timing belt) but the other components usually are changed just by inspection or if it is detected that there is a failure with it. Periodical inspection of your car after a certain number of miles its good (a must for older cars...specially axles, brake lines and engine).
    Good luck!
  • jjv99jjv99 Posts: 33
    The lock/unlock electrical circuit is not that complicated. You have a 2 way switch (lock/unlock positions) that are connected to a relay which at the same time feeds a solenoid or Actuator which is the one that does the actual physical job (all these components are inside your door). Now if you have a security system connected to your door system I'll recommend to disconnect it so you could isolate the problem (and check if the system works). Based on what you said, seems that you have a false electrical contact (which most probably is in your switch because mechanical parts usually fails first than electrical ones) so check that one first...specially the one from the driver; which usually is the most used. Hope you find your ghost :)
  • triccitricci Posts: 2
    Hello Dixee

    Our family has a Honda Accord 1994 with the same problem.
    I have just today, removed the door panel from the door that was making all the noise. I found that it is the door lock actuator that is the culprit. I don't know how to fix this actuator. I just know that when I disconnect the plug to it the noise and problem go away. I imagine I will have to purchase another door lock actuator and install it myself.

    The problem door we have is the right rear door. When you lock the door it makes a loud whining/buzzing sound. Then when you walk away, it continues, sometimes through the night.

    It is very annoying, so for now I'm just unplugging the power to that right rear door lock actuator.

    Sincerely,

    tricci
  • jjv99jjv99 Posts: 33
    Check the codes in your ECM (computer) after 30 min. of driving. Most of the times, sensors will work fine when engine is cold but could failed when engine gets warm.
    Also, provide more details (things that you have change before the test, tune ups, any changes to the EGR system, last time you change your catalityc converter).
    Anyway, NOX is produced when combustion temperatures exceed 2500 degrees Fahrenheit. EGR systems and cat.converter are systems created just to reduce the amount of NOX (and other gases) produced....so before changing anything in your EGR or cat.conv. you need to focus if your engine cooling system is working fine. I'll recommend to have somebody else repair it because in most of the states, the money u spent repairing this problem with a state certified mechanic counts against the min. limit they req.. For example in my state, the min. is 350, so if for some reason the mechanic is not able to repair the problem; the state will pass the emission test if you show them the receipt (needs to be from a certified mechanic from the state) of what you have spent. Hope this helps.
  • dixeedixee Posts: 3
    I'll try it without the key fob. However the alarm has been changed twice in the past year due to the ghost. The back passenger door had a faulty actuator that was supposed to be the cause of the ghost. The actuator was replaced but did not make the ghost disappear.

    How do you know this about the key fob?
  • triccitricci Posts: 2
    Hello Mistherd13

    I have the same problem with my 94 Accord.
    I took apart the door and removed the actuator. This took care of the problem. If you want to know if the actuator is any good, the answer is no. To save money, just unplug the power to the actuator inside the door. This will illiminate the problem of the on/off without touching anything and the awfull noise it makes. The only thing is you will have to manually lock/unlock that door.

    tricci
  • I just bought a 96 EX 4door 4cyl. No check engine lights are on. Just wondering if the RPM range is normal. Going 70 I register about 2850 Rpm. 80mph about 3100.

    Is this normal?

    My thermostat stays about 2/3 of the way to half way.
  • On my 97 LX, the driver-side window will skew a little bit while it goes up so that it will not go into the track when it is up all the way.

    does anyone know how to fix this?

    thanks guys.
  • I think your rpms are pretty normal. I drove a 97 5sp EX and it was around 3K at 80 mph.

    I dont think you should have anything to worry about.
  • Wondering if I have a bigger problem now.
    I took my Accord in to get the freon recharged because it was not cooling fast enough, easy fix right? Wrong.
    Shop tells me I need a new radiator fan motor as it's not keeping the pressure where it needs to be ($289) I decided to get one aftermarket and have a buddy put it on to save a couple hundred bucks. They ask me if I want to leave the freon they just put in the car , I said sure.
    When I drove home I start hearing this clunking sound coming from the right side of my dash. And hear a purging relief value spewing all that I can think of is freon from under my hood. I take it back and they said once I get a new radiator fan I should be ok...
    Finally my question is, could they have messed up something by filling it up with freon when the radiator fan was not working at full capacity or is it no big deal?
  • djsg143djsg143 Posts: 20
    :) Hello everyone.

    My 96 accord has recently been vibrating at stops...it the same kinda vibration that happens when the ac cycles, but I don't have the ac on. Any ideas?

    Also on a smaller note, I turned off my radio for an extended period of time, thinking it needed charge time since I always play music while driving :shades: only to hear a weird groan while turning hard . Sounds like when you pull into the driveway in a tight angle...maybe the body isn't as still as it used to be but I don't recall hearing it as often as I do now. Any idead? thanks alot you guys
  • jjv99jjv99 Posts: 33
    I'm not an expert on AC but I know something on the theory on how it works. The sound most probably is coming from the Evaporator that is located under the passenger side dash. The Evaporator is were the freon (in accord 95 and after is used R135A) will change from a high pressure gas (actually should be in liquid state and most probably hot) and change into a low pressure line (were it becomes into gas). This change in pressure needs to be compensated with heat (if you like physics you may find the details of it pretty interesting); which the Evaporator will end up absorbing it from the car's cab.
    Now here comes my guess; because they introduce more freon and expecting the pressure to go up; they introduce more gas than expected which is not a problem because you are planning to change your compressor anyway(I guess that is what you meant with "radiator fan motor ")....but in normal systems; overcharging your system will most probably mess up your compressor.
    So answering your question; I believe they are right when they said that the sound will dissapear when you change your compressor; but before doing that I'll suggest to check for leaks in your system...check all the lines, hoses and also evaluate changing the Accumulator (with a new one and not a used one) which its main objective is to protect the compressor (avoids that liquid freon gets into the compressor).
    Hope this helps.
  • jjv99jjv99 Posts: 33
    I guess I may need to hear the sound to tell you what exactly is the problem; but seems it could be associated with your 2nd question.....I think you have a problem in your driveaxle....have you check your driveaxle boot? or the state of your driveaxle? but definitely the sound you hear when turning in a tight angle is coming from your driveaxle.
    The vibration could also be related (maybe your driveaxle are to a near end...who knows) or also could be a worn lower ball joints, or tie-rod ends or any hard rubber used in your steering system. The only way somebody could diagnostic your car is by having a visual inspection of all the components I mentioned. Greetings
  • mehmetmehmet Posts: 1
    I have 98 Accord. I bought EGR valve from a dealer in Ohio in Feb. 06. But in less than 6 months (July 06),car failed in emission test in Georgia. Although original parts seem to have one year warranty, Honda service also charged me for the second EGR valve plus $250 labor in less than 6 months.
  • djsg143djsg143 Posts: 20
    Thanks for the reply,

    The groans take place in the rear passenger side ....like a slow creak, groan....I even though it might be my exhaust (aftermarket)

    the vibrations make me think it is either an engine mount issue, a tranny issue, or an exhaust issue....you can literally see the steering wheel vibrate at a stoplight....and feel it underneath you.
  • jjv99jjv99 Posts: 33
    yeah...now I understand u better. Definitely somebody needs to inspect all the rubbers used in your suspension, steering system and the mounts of the engine. All those rubbers absorbs the vibration that comes from your engine and tranny. If everything is fine, then check the engine timing...when is not well synchronize you may expect some unusual vibrations which are more notice when the car is stop. Good luck
  • regatoregato Posts: 1
    a friend of mine asked me to help her with the a/c of her car she has a accord 95 ex v6 and i need to now where is de expansion valv and the drier on that car because i never worked on it and i dont want to serch like crazy arround the car.

    thanks
  • Does anyone know what might cause the oil temp gauge to not work?

    mine is stuck about 1/4 of the way towards the red.

    Also, whenever I turn my vents on--hot or cold, I get a squeak. Does anyone know what might cause this?

    thanks.

    ND
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Does anyone know what might cause the oil temp gauge to not work?

    Just to clarify, that is not an oil temperature gauge, but instead is the coolant temperature. You have no oil temperature gauge in the car. The only thing on the dash that refers to the oil is the low-oil pressure warning light; you should see it come on briefly when cranking your car each time.

    I don't know why the needle would be stuck there, maybe a thermostat problem? It's apparent you have either a cooling problem or thermostat problem if the needle went that high in the first place.

    I don't know where your squeak would be coming from I'm afraid, and I realize I'm not much help, but I wish you the best of luck!

    thegrad
    96 LX Sedan, 165,000 miles.
  • When driving in slow traffic or idling, my temp gauge starts to go up and near the red zone. It will go real high, then start to come down on its own, alternating between both. When I get home the radiator fan comes on like it should, but the Fan relay clicks on and off turning the radiator fan on and off multiple times. Before I had the problem, the fan would go on for about 5-10 mins, then shut off like it should. Do you think the problem is with the Radiator Fan relay or the Coolant switch sensor. I replaced the radiator, fan switches and thermostat about 3 years ago, so I don't think they are the issue. Can anyone help. Thanks.
  • jjv99jjv99 Posts: 33
    Read message #424
    I'll suggest to check again the components that you have change recently (why did you change them original? because you were having the same problem??). Also, I know is possible to check if a sensor is working fine or not; you will need an multimeter to do that but don't have the electrical specifications maybe you could google them. Based on my experience, the component that most commonly fails are (in that order) is the thermostat, water pump, radiator clogged or leaks present, then comes the sensors and switches.
    I'll try to get the info on how to check those components; but I'm pretty sure you can find them in the internet.
    Good luck
  • mamamia2mamamia2 ChicagoPosts: 701
    Last week I cleaned up my office and found the book. I bought it years ago. It's for the '94-97 Accord. I have no use for it anymore, since I sold the car 7 months ago.

    Have no idea if it's still easilly available at auto-part stores... But before trashing it (or rather tossing it in the recycle bin) -- is there someone who'd be interested in it?
Sign In or Register to comment.