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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair



  • tovawongtovawong Posts: 2
    What would be the best way to fix the heat shield noise problem? I have a 95' accord ex. appreciate any suggestion. tw
  • rey187rey187 Posts: 3

    The balancer(crankshaft pulley)on my car is two pieces inner and outer pressed together with rubber. The first one seperated and i figured it was from age the car has 123k on it. So i replaced it then 100 miles later the brand new one seperated.

    Anyone have any ideas on why this would happen?
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    Seems emission related... Did you try your honda dealer? Inquire about the 98-081 service bulletin. It applies to All honda models that are between 1996 and 1997. (except the Honda Rodeo... err passport :blush: ). It also applies to 1995 accords with a v6 engine. All you need is fewer than 150k miles or 13 or 14 years**. For me, its been 115k miles and 11 1/2years. The speedometer may jump crazily or a squealing sound coming from the engine bay around 3k rpms will be heard. A slight bucking is evident also. It includes a FREE* :sick: Oil Change. :)

    *If the procedure hasn't been done. The cost of labor and parts and whatever else emission related, $0

    ** To be sure, do a google on the 98-081 service bulletin :)

    -Cj :shades:
  • hondacar1hondacar1 Posts: 2
    I took a look and the service bullitin is for emisions control not the A/C.
    Thanks for the info :)
  • I have a 1997 Honda Accord EX and am looking for a cigarette lighter assembly replacement. Any ideas? It was originally a little loose when I bought the car a year ago, and has recently fallen out of the trim assembly. Thank you for any help!
  • I have a 1994 Honda Accord LX 4DR Sedan.. bought my car and the automatic door locks didn't work. The remote it came with doesn't work. Using the key doesn't work and the manual button on the door doesn't work. All of a sudden they worked but then it stopped and hasn't worked since. Anyone have any ideas or should i just go out and buy a Keyless/Alarm set?
  • Sorry i haven't responded sooner. I did change the thermostat, an $8.50 part. It made all the difference in the world :shades: . Thank God it was not the transmission. It did the trick. I took it out for a drive to Chillicothe (about 12 miles from my house, 4 lane highway, 60 mph). My torque converter kicked in and the rpms dropped from 2700 to about 2350. It was a miracle! :) i was used to it running about 2800 rpm @ 60 mph that it was kind of relaxing to finally hear the engine calm down. Thank you so much for all of your guys help. ;) Without this site, i would have never known anything was wrong. Also another good highlight, my avg. fuel econ. has increased by about 10%! :shades:
  • Hey I have another problem for ya'll to figure out. I have been having problems with my fuel gauge being inaccurate. I can't tell for sure when this started, but it is obviously here to stay. My gauge is reading lower than what it should. I once ran it down to empty, and the low fuel light came on. I panicked, but i made it to a station. Figuring on a 17 gallon fillup, considering that's the size of my tank, i was rather surprised when the pump kicked at 11.2 gallons. I tried to make it go more, but it kept kicking, so i stopped, knowing that 11.2 gallons would last me a while anyways. Again i was surprised to find that the gauge was up to full. It has been doing this ever since then, and it may have been happening a while before that. I can typically run it about 280 miles before i "need" to fill up again (according to my gauge). I can get about 10 gallons in before the pump will kick and the gauge will read full. The gauge reads like the tank is 10 gallons, so i use it as more of an MPG meter and use my tripometer to tell when i need to fill up. Its not really a problem, more like an annoyance. If anybody has had this problem or knows how to fix it, please help me out here.
  • Hi odysseyaccord, Mrbill and other Honda experts,

    I have 97 Honda Accord 4 cylinders 16 valves. I try to change timingbelt.

    The power steering pump, alternator, valve cover and upper timingbelt cover are off now. I am still having hard time correctly aligning all timing marks (TDC). Something is bothering me after looking up mechanical manual and talking to someone in the autoshop. The problem is that the 'UP' is upside down on camshaft pulley when the crankshaft pulley notch on the mark and the distributor rotor pointing #1 cylinder.

    Is this possible? And then I tried to make 'UP' stays up and the crankshaft notch on the mark, but the distributor rotor points #4 cylinder. So please tell me which of two can I count on?
    -- crankshaft pulley notch on the mark
    -- distributor pointing #1 cylinder
    -- 'UP' is up on camshaft pulley

    Did I miss something? Or anything else I can do to get this straight out?

    Thanks in advance.

  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    Glad you got your T-stat problem sorted out. I guess my bet was a safe one last time.

    Here is some info on how the float, etc works for gas gauges:

    I had one float that the gas had permeated and caused to sink lower in the tank giving false low readings, you may have a similar problem. Either way, the float is something to have looked at.

    good luck
  • Hello.. since no one responded to my other one.. maybe you will have fun with this . might be more of challenge.. my brakes tend to not work sometimes.. it will go straight back.. oh.. 1994 Honda Accord 4D Sedan.. anyways.. this is becoming a very annoying thing cause i dont want to run into the person infront of me.. my brakes are fine and dont need a replacement so what can i do..
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    COuld you explain in more detail? Does the pedal just go to the floor? Details will help determine the issue.
  • well.. every once in a while the car doesn't want to break.. you are usually able to stop in seconds but my car doesn't. i would have to let go and retry to stop so it will stop. sometimes that doesn't even work. it breaks but very slowly.. if i were to have to do a sudden stop i would never make it ..... uhm.. what else? did that help?
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    I don't know how much of a response you are gonna get from the boards on this anyway. Usually with a problem as serious as that the first/best advice is to take your car to a trusted mechanic's shop immediately. There may be a leak in the line, problem with the booster, MC, etc.

    This is a diagnosis that should be made immediately, driving with a problem like that is foolhardy.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Get to a shop, and quickly...but it sounds like you have a serious leak in the brake line/master cylinder...I wouldn't drive the car anywhere BUT to the mechanic.
  • I recently bought a 1997 Accord. Love it, but when driving it the other day we heard a noise and when we got out to look the driver side headlight casing and the bumper seem to have broke. Looks like somesort of clip has broken off. Is this something that has happened to anyone else? Thanks. :confuse:
  • mrgold35mrgold35 Posts: 73
    Does it feel like your stopping the car on ice? Every once in a while my 97 Accord with +155K on same rotor/drums would feel like that but only on 10% of emergency stops. I could not duplicate the same results in non emergency stops on a side road. Everything felt normal for regular stops. I have not had this problem reoccur after getting my brake pads replaced at the Honda dealership 6 months ago. I had Brake Master Pads on the car previously.
  • Hi i just purchased a 97 honda accord ex (v6) and as i started driving it i realized something was wrong with the brakes. As i was breakin and id be almost at a stop the break peddle would kick back up and the brakes would make a noise. Now i check the drums, rotors, pads, all are in great condition and recently changed.... can anyone help me with this problem?
  • Hi, i have a 97 accrd ex v6 and i realized when i would accelerate the switching of gears was rough. The car would jerk for a second then it would kick into the next gear.. what would cause this problem..? (my car is an automatic)

    Another problem i am encountering is that my car is running in higher rpms then it should, it shoots all the way past 4000 STILL BEING IN FIRST GEAR! Then sometimes the rpm meter would just stop working. Is this the meter or is something wrong with my trans?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Well, can you audibly hear that the car is revving to such high (4,000+) RPMs when the tachometer (the "RPM meter" is a tachometer) says it is revving high, or is it reading falsely? With the "jerking" you talk about it sound more like a transmission issue. Have you paid attention to the "D4" indicator light? Does it ever blink? If it does, you have a problem with your transmission.
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