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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair



  • jjv99jjv99 Posts: 33
    I guess I may need to hear the sound to tell you what exactly is the problem; but seems it could be associated with your 2nd question.....I think you have a problem in your driveaxle....have you check your driveaxle boot? or the state of your driveaxle? but definitely the sound you hear when turning in a tight angle is coming from your driveaxle.
    The vibration could also be related (maybe your driveaxle are to a near end...who knows) or also could be a worn lower ball joints, or tie-rod ends or any hard rubber used in your steering system. The only way somebody could diagnostic your car is by having a visual inspection of all the components I mentioned. Greetings
  • mehmetmehmet Posts: 1
    I have 98 Accord. I bought EGR valve from a dealer in Ohio in Feb. 06. But in less than 6 months (July 06),car failed in emission test in Georgia. Although original parts seem to have one year warranty, Honda service also charged me for the second EGR valve plus $250 labor in less than 6 months.
  • djsg143djsg143 Posts: 20
    Thanks for the reply,

    The groans take place in the rear passenger side a slow creak, groan....I even though it might be my exhaust (aftermarket)

    the vibrations make me think it is either an engine mount issue, a tranny issue, or an exhaust can literally see the steering wheel vibrate at a stoplight....and feel it underneath you.
  • jjv99jjv99 Posts: 33 I understand u better. Definitely somebody needs to inspect all the rubbers used in your suspension, steering system and the mounts of the engine. All those rubbers absorbs the vibration that comes from your engine and tranny. If everything is fine, then check the engine timing...when is not well synchronize you may expect some unusual vibrations which are more notice when the car is stop. Good luck
  • regatoregato Posts: 1
    a friend of mine asked me to help her with the a/c of her car she has a accord 95 ex v6 and i need to now where is de expansion valv and the drier on that car because i never worked on it and i dont want to serch like crazy arround the car.

  • Does anyone know what might cause the oil temp gauge to not work?

    mine is stuck about 1/4 of the way towards the red.

    Also, whenever I turn my vents on--hot or cold, I get a squeak. Does anyone know what might cause this?


  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Does anyone know what might cause the oil temp gauge to not work?

    Just to clarify, that is not an oil temperature gauge, but instead is the coolant temperature. You have no oil temperature gauge in the car. The only thing on the dash that refers to the oil is the low-oil pressure warning light; you should see it come on briefly when cranking your car each time.

    I don't know why the needle would be stuck there, maybe a thermostat problem? It's apparent you have either a cooling problem or thermostat problem if the needle went that high in the first place.

    I don't know where your squeak would be coming from I'm afraid, and I realize I'm not much help, but I wish you the best of luck!

    96 LX Sedan, 165,000 miles.
  • When driving in slow traffic or idling, my temp gauge starts to go up and near the red zone. It will go real high, then start to come down on its own, alternating between both. When I get home the radiator fan comes on like it should, but the Fan relay clicks on and off turning the radiator fan on and off multiple times. Before I had the problem, the fan would go on for about 5-10 mins, then shut off like it should. Do you think the problem is with the Radiator Fan relay or the Coolant switch sensor. I replaced the radiator, fan switches and thermostat about 3 years ago, so I don't think they are the issue. Can anyone help. Thanks.
  • jjv99jjv99 Posts: 33
    Read message #424
    I'll suggest to check again the components that you have change recently (why did you change them original? because you were having the same problem??). Also, I know is possible to check if a sensor is working fine or not; you will need an multimeter to do that but don't have the electrical specifications maybe you could google them. Based on my experience, the component that most commonly fails are (in that order) is the thermostat, water pump, radiator clogged or leaks present, then comes the sensors and switches.
    I'll try to get the info on how to check those components; but I'm pretty sure you can find them in the internet.
    Good luck
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Posts: 698
    Last week I cleaned up my office and found the book. I bought it years ago. It's for the '94-97 Accord. I have no use for it anymore, since I sold the car 7 months ago.

    Have no idea if it's still easilly available at auto-part stores... But before trashing it (or rather tossing it in the recycle bin) -- is there someone who'd be interested in it?
  • I'd be interested in it. Maybe we could arrange something on paypal? Email me at

  • mamamia2mamamia2 Posts: 698
    I sent you an email, Greg.
  • dixeedixee Posts: 3

    My rear passenger door was a problem too--would not lock/unlock with other doors. Just paid to have new actuator put in. Would hate to think that ALL other actuators need to be replaced. This is causing my alarms to not operate correctly. All my doors whine/buzz.

    Did you have to take your car to a mechanic? Which actuator did you unhook?
  • Okay, i got a Honda accord 1994 2 door - 4 cyl.
    It has almost 200k miles on it.My g/f got the car with 85k on it.She does not know of what has been done to that car,not does she have records.
    So yesterday i was doing an oild change, drained the oil and gone to check the spark plugs.
    2 out of 4 had oil inside the cylinder where the spark cable sits in to connect with the tip of the spark plug.So it was drenched in oil.
    Few days ago the car would not start for some reason and could be because of this.Engine would turn but not catch.
    So.. i took out the spark plugs and was drenched in oil.the other 2 where clean bone dry.They look like they have been replaced .Car has not been smoking at all out through the exhaust or around the engine.
    Anyone know why or how oil could of got into the cylinderic part of where the spark plug cables sit in? Spark plugs where tighter then hand tight.Maybe a gasket is gone and needs to be replaced.
    I mean if it was something major like the head gasket i would of thought all 4 plugs would go bad.
    The 2 plugs that where soaked in oil where conected to the longest of the spark cables.
    Any help on what i can do about this would be great.
  • seranikoseraniko Posts: 27
    have a compression reading done, leak down test also...could be oil ring or valve seal, @ 200k, there's a lot of wear & tear on the engine already.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I posted here twice now, and I was wondering if anybody out there has had to replace the light in their Automatic transmission console shifter (that makes the PRND4D321 light up between the driver and passenger)? Is it difficult or worth doing, or just a simple fix?

    A response is MUCH appreciated!
  • Did you resolve this? I have exactly the same thing happening this past month on my 97 Honda Accord EX

    I've noticed the Radiator Fan is more likely to come on... even short journeys have hte same events.

    A/C is usually not on, which makes things worse.
  • jjv99jjv99 Posts: 33
    Agreed with the response of seraniko:
    #466 oily sparky by seraniko Aug 24, 2006 (9:57 pm)
    There are three places where that oil could come from :
    Most commons:
    - Head Gasket. A small open in the gasket not necesarilly means it will affect all cylinders. H.Gasket has protection for each individual cylinder so having 2 oily spark plugs could make sense if you have a faulty H. gasket. If you open your engine, you will need to change your head gasket. So if you do it, plan checking your pistons and valves. It doesn't make sense to open your engine if you are not planning to check them (even if you find out that the problem was with your h. gasket). Repair complexity for a rookie= Medium

    - Oil ring or valve seal (Mentioned by seraniko). Doing a compression reading will determine what cylinders you are having trouble with. When opening your engine, check those cylinders (piston and vavles associated with it) in details for any problem. Repair complexity for a rookie = high

    Less common
    - Engine block. There could be a small crack (most of the times hard to detect) most probably because of overheating problems of your car. Can not be fixed. You need to replace it. Complexity of changing your engine block=high

    If the oily spark plugs are becoming a problem a quick fix is to increase the distance of the spark plug with the cylinder...long time back I've seen some kind of small adapter which goes between the spark plug and the engine (I don't know how it's call). This is not recommended but will solve the problem of having oil in the spark plugs.
    Good luck
  • I have a accord 1997 4 cylinder with 230,000 km on it. Just recently I had a problem with the car hesitating. The car only start hesitating for the first 1 km or so when I first start the car after a long period of time. It will hesitate at 20 km/hour, 40 km and 60km an hour. It feels like something is clogged but after driving for a distance km or so everything seems to be fine. No loss of power or slipping after that initial hiccup at startup. I have replaced the fuel filter with a brand new one, Tune up was done 8 months ago and the car runs fine other than that. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

    Thank you
  • jjv99jjv99 Posts: 33
    Check the diagnostic code from the ECM (Engine Control Module). Most probably you have a sensor problem somewhere.
    Good Luck
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