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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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  • yemmyemm Posts: 2
    thank you for the tips...

    My car is not FI- actually my car is a Honda 1992 - 1993 Accord EX 2.2L, 4 Cylinder..and it has indeed a carburetor, located exactly where the air filter is

    #5..yes and I can hear the click of the main relay
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I was pretty darn sure that by 1990, all Accords had EFI.

    Edmunds agrees. Here's an excerpt from their "Model History" of the Accord, this particular section speaks about the 1990 model. (Skip to the last paragraph).
    **********
    Home > Honda > Accord

    Honda Accord History

    1990-1993

    The 1990 Accord was completely revamped, inside and out. The fourth-generation Accord grew in size, power and popularity (in fact, the Accord was the best-selling car in America for three years in a row, 1990-1992.) The hatchback was dropped, leaving a notchback coupe and a four-door sedan as available choices. Wheelbase was increased by nearly 5 inches (now 107.1 inches), and weight went up, though even the heaviest Accord, the EX four-door, still weighed less than 3000 pounds. Styling in and out was very clean and purposeful, with a low beltline, large greenhouse (window area) and slim roof pillars that minimized blind spots. The uncluttered and chiseled appearance of the '90 Accord gave an overall impression of quality and solidity. This notion was confirmed when one simply hopped in the car and shut the door or turned a knob to put on the headlights. Doors shut with a solid "thunk" and switchgear had a precise and satisfying action.

    In keeping with Honda's logical system of offering a few versions of each car with increasing standard features (as opposed to the American car makers' philosophy of offering a confusing array of options and option packages), three trim levels were available. One could choose a basic DX, a well-equipped LX (which, as before, had power windows/locks/mirrors, cruise control, A/C and a decent stereo cassette all standard) or the top-shelf EX (which added a power moonroof, alloy wheels and 5 more horsepower to an LX).

    On the mechanical side, carburetors were history, as fuel injection was made standard on all Accords. The new 2.2-liter engine pumped out 125 horsepower in DX and LX trims, and 130 horses in the EX. Other changes included electronic control for the automatic transmission and motorized front shoulder belts (the latter to satisfy government safety requirements).
    **********
    The link to this page is here
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    You sure you don't have one of these sitting up in your engine right at the top near the windshield? ;) image
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    Go to this link and click on "overview"
    http://religion.p5.org.uk/techauto/mainrelaydefine.html Do these systems apply to you? The main relay controls the fuel pump. If you live in a hot climate where the temperature is 90F/34C and the cabin temp is high, check out the main relay. The two words in your post that caught my attention are "tropical and humidity" Hope this helps
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    OOPS..under main relay symptoms click on green arrow for carb models. Yes indeed sports fans, some had carburetors. ;)
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    Good page!

    As far as carbs go, yes the page does have info for non-FI vehicles but that doesn't mean that his 92 has a carb. If you notice, in the same paragraph you get when you follow the green "carb" arrow it specifies that the location is for second generation accords. 90-93 is third gen.

    Anyway, good link at least.
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    Hello Yemm,
    As a frequent traveler I remember seeing carbureted autos in europe in the early 90s. Do you reside outside of the U.S.? In any case, if your mechanic says you have a carbureator look at the fuel pump.

    Regards
    Corkscrew
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    As far as carbs go, yes the page does have info for non-FI vehicles but that doesn't mean that his 92 has a carb. If you notice, in the same paragraph you get when you follow the green "carb" arrow it specifies that the location is for second generation accords. 90-93 is third gen.

    You are right, no carbs after 1989 for US Accords (the 2.2L was the only engine, and its fuel injected.)

    But, the 1990-1993 is the fourth generation. :)
  • I own a 1994 Honda Accord with a break light/rear light problem. Whether the car is on or not the rear light (dim light not the break light but still the same bulb) stays on and wont turn off unless i disconnect the battery. I checked all of the fuses and the lights still stay on. Does anyone else know what is wrong with me car? Thanks
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I suspect the brake position switch is either broken mis aligned, or needs adjustment. the switch is located either above or below the brake pedal. You may have to remove the lower panel on the dash to find it. Good luck.

    PS: If the car is an automatic, is it difficult to get the shift position lever out of park? Or more likely in this case, will it move out of park, without pressing the brake pedal. This could confirm some things.
  • ddunbarddunbar Posts: 31
    My 1995 Accord Wagon has 106,000 miles on it. I've owned it for a little over 2 years now. The rear brake calipers recently froze and so I just replaced those plus pads and rotors. The tires also need replacement now. The car is a little bouncy and so my mechanic recommends replacing the struts when I get the new tires so as not to damage them. I also have just noticed a leak in the exhaust, and it seems I need a new muffler and pipe between the muffler and catalytic converter. Final bill including the work I just had done on the rear brakes is around $2300. Is it time to sell it off rather than putting more money into the tires/struts/exhaust? Or, am I likely to be past big repair bills for awhile?

    One more note. The transmission seems to work fine, but my mechanic noticed the car is a bit slow to get into gear. Is this a sign of trouble ahead soon? The transmission fluid looks fine.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    With 106,000 miles, you are a long way from the end of your car's life.

    I have a 1996 Accord with 174k miles on it and it costs about $300 a year to keep running (only about one repair a year).

    The transmission is nothing to worry about if it is shifting fine up through the gears. He's probably used to a different car. Mine takes a second or more sometimes to get into gear.

    The 4-cylinder Accords from this (and the previous) generation (1990-1997) are just incredibly bulletproof. I have honestly never heard of a transmission problem out of a car like ours. As for exhaust, shocks, and brakes, well, that's something that won't need fixing again for another long period of time - its just maintenance. I actually have the original shocks/struts on my car.

    Let me ask you though, have you had the timing belt replaced already? If not, you should have at 90,000 miles.
  • ddunbarddunbar Posts: 31
    Thanks much. I did have the timing belt replace at 90K.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    dunbar,

    Any relation to Dances w/Wolves?
  • ddunbarddunbar Posts: 31
    One might think so, but John is actually my middle name.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Just curious and polling people...

    How much should I expect to pay for an Auto-Transmission flush?

    (not that it matters, but I'm asking about my 1996 4-cyl Accord).
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    Indeed they are 4th gen, that'll teach me to write things at 3am local time....;)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Trust me, I've made that mistake before too... it makes you say crazy things, doesn't it!! :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I would expect $150 (9 quarts of fluid and 1.5 hours labor) from what the going rates are these days. But then I haven't had a mechanic look at any of my vehicles in 15 years or more (so what do I know ;) ). When are you going to do it? What do you think?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I may get it done tomorrow. I had no idea how much it costs to get it done.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Grad, just shop the price on the net then get your dealer to match. I got new fluid for $50. Always use Honda brand fluid, the trans is finicky.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Oh, I knew to use only Honda fluid. My local dealer just changed hands and is now money hungry (the minimum oil change went from $23.95 to $38.

    So, i hate to go back there.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Bummer. My dealer changes my oil for $10. I provide the filter and the Mobil 1.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Yeah... I'll be taking my newer car to the dealer while it is still under warranty, but for my '96, I'll be going elsewhere. The timing belt is coming up too. My granddad called the dealership and they wanted $720 to do the timing belt and water pump. The mechanic he went to (someone he's used before and trusts) changed timing belt, water pump, and all the belts for less than $500.

    On a college student budget (working part time), $200 is huge.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Understand. Maybe it would be less expensive to sell the 96 and just have 1 car. Just my .02.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Yeah, except my parents have just moved back to AL (5 hours from me at the Gulf Coast) from OK and may be needing that car to have at their new home in Gulf Shores. They currently pay the insurance on it, so it was worth it to me to keep it running.

    So, it really doesn't cost much to me in actuality. There are a lot more details that would explain my family's rationale for me having the main access to two cars, but I have neither the time nor energy tonight!
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Sure if they pay the insurance,etc.,that helps. No explanation needed.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Well, there's no etc...

    :) That car has been in my family since Nov. 1995, so it is long paid for. I just keep it running, and they keep it insured. We also keep it because I am cheaper to insure in that car than my 2006 Accord (which will be my primary car after college - my parents promised a new car if I got a full ride to college. I delivered, and they did too).

    Instead of selling the '96, at the time, it was our third car in the family of three. My parents recently moved across the country (Birmingham to Oklahoma City) and now have moved back to Alabama, to Gulf Shores. They didn't want to drive the '96 across the country, but now, I imagine they'll take the '96 away soon. They currently are using just one car, their Atomic 2007 Civic EX Sedan.

    That's the short version.

    I'm outta here, good night blufz and everyone else! :)
  • MY 1995 HONDA ACCORD HAS BEEN ACTING FUNNY LATELY. FIRST, THE GAUGE LIGHT WENT OUT. THEN, THE FRONT AMBER LIGHTS WENT OUT ALONE WITH MY TAIL LIGHTS. MY BRAKE LIGHTS WORK FINE. I GOT PULLED OVER BY A COP THE OTHER DAY BECAUSE MY TAIL LIGHTS WERE NOT ON. WHAT'S GOING ON WITH MY CAR....AND HOW CAN I FIX THIS? I ALREADY CHECKED THE FUSES.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I suppose it could be the combination switch (the switch that turns the lights on). You would have to test it to be sure. The brake lights are controlled only by the brake pedal position switch, and will work without the combination switch.
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