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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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  • Your are right, looks like it doesn't have one. Will need to take it apart and see what the problem is.
    Thanks man.
    Dave
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    right, when you open your hood, it's a good idea when checking the oil and the coolant level, ps and brake fluid levels to remember to remove any debris sitting on the inlet at the base of the windshield. besides nut shells and tree leaves, pine needles are bad news too. eventually enough of the stuff gets sucked in and contributes to clogging the evap coil pan drain.

    symptoms of that is hearing a sloshing of water on turns, a hissing sound like water hitting a hot frying pan, and water in the footwell, damp carpeting and musty odors.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Right, when you open your hood, it's a good idea when checking the oil and the coolant level, ps and brake fluid levels to remember to remove any debris sitting on the inlet at the base of the windshield. besides nut shells and tree leaves, pine needles are bad news too. eventually enough of the stuff gets sucked in and contributes to clogging the evap coil pan drain.

    I park outside, around many trees. This past fall I had to clean that area out at the very least once a week!
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I park outside, around many trees. This past fall I had to clean that area out at the very least once a week!

    Then you will likely find some of this when you change the cabin filter. There are some really hard to get to places on 7th gen cars. Have you thought of covering the vents while the cars is parked in this area?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Since I drive every day, often leaving early in the A.M. and getting home after 11 P.M. (such is life as a TV News Intern), covering the vents would not be a viable option.
  • Okay..I have a 1996 4 door Honda Accord V6 and it has 170,000 miles on it....(I know it's a lot).

    I've had it for about three years and I got the igniton coil replaced, a new timing belt, new spark plugs and fixed some oil leaks.

    But once again I have another problem. Don't get me wrong. I love my honda. It's wonderful and I wanna make sure I can fix this problem.

    Just recently I noticed that if my boyfriend drives my car over a pot hole or a big dip there is a bump noise and I can actually feel it under my foot in the passenger side of the car. It also makes the bump noise when I turn right a lot. I don't know what it is. Im scarred to drive it too far.

    Also another minor problem is that when I'm driving normally not braking or anything the back wheels of the car will squeak a lot. I'm not braking. I don't know but if someone could give me advice that would be great! I need to know if my car is safe to drive or not!!! Please Thank You!

    ~Amanda
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,021
    Sounds like the front strut is blown out. Given the miles, I don't doubt it.

    The rear squeak could be nothing more than old rubber bushings. A good spray with WD40 might quiet those down. If not, could be a rear strut damper maybe?

    But the front struts need attention sounds like.

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  • Ok i have a 94 Accord coupe manual. when im driving and im changing from 3rd to 4th gear once engaged and in gear a start to hear a noise like if it was a broken CV boot but i check both inner and outer on both sides and nothing. or if i change into a higher gear but at a llower speed it will begin to clunk but then stop after 50mph or so but will begin at about 40 wiht gears changing. im a student at a technical school in the automotive program and it even stumped my proffesor so if any one has had this problem then hey let me know, but other then that the car is great. Also if i where to change my tranny fluid with it nearing roughly180 to 190,000 miles and not knowing when it was changed last really do so much bad, even if there wasnt a problem before?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    A simple drain and fill may or may not help. But I advise against a (power) flush. A power flush can force particles from the bottom of the transmission, where they are doing no harm, up into places where they can clogg up they flow). A drain and fill will not replace all the fluid, but it will give you a good idea under what conditions the transmission was operating. There is a magnet on the drain plug. If this magnet is a large glob of metal shavings and sludge, it may have never been changed in it's lifetime. If one drain and fill (requiring 3 quarts of Honda ATF-Z1 only) shows some improvement, and the condition of the old fluid was really bad, another change may help too.
  • My 1997 Honda Accord Ex engine light came on. It has 71,000 miles. Took it to Autozone and code is po137. Was told it is Oxygen sensor #2 just before the cat. converter. However, I do not know if I should buy the 4 wire or 2 wire. Has anbody had this problem and suggestions are welcomed.

    thanks :confuse:
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    This should still be under warranty, as the emissions system (including the Oxygen Sensors) was included in an extended warranty for 150,000 miles or 14 years on Accords from 1995-1997.

    Do a search for message # 108 in this forum for more details.

    I have had two O2 sensors replaced under this warranty in my '96 LX. This SHOULD BE FREE for you.

    Keep us updated.
  • hmm i see, well its manual and only requires 2 qt's but of motor oil not tranny fluid i found that a lil surprising.
  • :) :) Yes, you are correct. I called my Honda dealer and it is covered. The rep. said they may charge a $92.00 diagnostic fee if necessary but everything looks ok. I found the Consent Decree from the U.S. Justice Dept. "US v.Honda Civil Action No. 98-01433, DJ, Ref; 90-5-2-1-2170 :)

    Thanks for your help.
  • Yes, you are correct. I called my Honda dealer and it is covered. The rep. said they may charge a $92.00 diagnostic fee if necessary but everything looks ok. I found the Consent Decree from the U.S. Justice Dept. "US v.Honda Civil Action No. 98-01433, DJ, Ref; 90-5-2-1-2170

    Thanks for your help. :) :)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    You're very welcome. They really shouldn't need to do the diagnostic.
  • I agree. The Agreement also reads spark plugs, wires and oil changes.

    I will let you know, have an appointment with the dealer wednesday.
    Again, thanks so much for your help.
    :)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    You are very welcome. Hopefully the previous services haven't been performed yet so you can get them all new. Mine was done around 88k miles, but I got yet another O2 sensor close to 150k miles when I threw a Check Engine Light again.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,021
    There's no way to know if a CV is going bad except by a) noise and b) taking it apart. A visual inspection while it's assembled on the car, or even attempting to grab it and wiggle it, won't tell you anything.

    Since the higher gears put the most strain on the driveline, you might very well have a bad CV joint.

    You might try and find an empty parking lot. Lock the wheels to the extreme left and go around in a circle with a bit of speed (people will think you are crazy but so what); then turn it to the right and do the same. This usually will annoy the CV joint if it is bad and it will start clanking away.

    If it's bad, replace the whole axle assembly as a rebuilt unit, unless you just want to learn something by replacing only one of the 4 CV joints.

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  • i did that not a squeak. its only on the straight line never in a turn of either extreams. im thinking its the tranny maybe th clutch either way i dont kno i took out all the cv's replaced one cuz the boot was riped and changed out my bearings and still so im almost sure its the tranny. but dont got the cash to get the parts so it aint bothered me so much im still gettin crazy good mileage, and i drive it about 400 a week and it still goes so im just gunna keep doing wat i do and treat my baby right! ;)
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    OMG I HAD ALL OF TH ABOVE!! I thought it was all coinsidence! I had approached the parking curb to much and backed up and the sound I thought was the bottom surubbing the road as i was turning was actually water(it had a waterfall sloshing/scraping sound)! I had washed my car and shampooed my carpets and i thought that because it was cool, it was taking to long to dry! I had the musty odor, but I thought it was just the air freshener that just went bad and dried up!! LOL i was totally oblivious!

    It got fixed awhile back at AC Delco when I did that tune up! There was water everyehere on the floor! I felt dumb!! Totally embarassing!!

    Glad to know what actually happened!
    -Cj
  • I have a power steering leak somewhere. I'm constantly filling it up every other day. Would this be something I could repair on my own considering I'm short on funds right now. Will it cause other damages if I don't get this fix right away.
  • I recently rolled down my driver side window and now doesn't want to roll up. The passenger side windows roll down but dont roll back up from the master window switch. I have to roll them up by reaching across to the passenger door. My rear driver side window does roll up and down from the master window switch.
    Want to know if it is my master window switch or Power Window Switch Control Module/Relay???
  • Want to know if it is my master window switch or Power Window Switch Control Module/Relay???

    I recently rolled down my driver side window and now doesn't want to roll up. The passenger side windows roll down but dont roll back up from the master window switch. I have to roll them up by reaching across to the passenger door. My rear driver side window does roll up and down from the master window switch.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Posts: 698
    ...Just stopped by for a short visit... I haven't been driving the '96 Accord for exactly 2 years now (did a trade-in for an '06 Sonata). Keep up the good work, thegraduate, let owners know about this extended warranty that could save them a lot of money.....
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Im doing my best! Check in anytime!
  • bioraybioray Posts: 3
    My 95 accord 4cyl vtec runs rough at low speeds with light throttle. Changed coil wires and plugs whith no improvement. I disconnected the vacuum line from the egr valve and the problem magically disappears. What's up with that. Is it the egr valve or the control solenoid or that vacuum control thing that is beside the egr control solenoid. Any help would be appreciated
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The EGR valve and/or ports may be clogged up. It's a common problem. I used to have two links describing how to clean the ports, but unfortunately they both seem to have disappeared.

    Hey! found one. It's not as good as the 95 specific how-to, but it will give you some idea.
    http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    Ok I didn't post it but i had an issue with my car for a few days. I was traveling down I95 in traffic and I noticed my car began to run hot. I was just passing the South Beach Exit and was in dead stop and go with no place to pull over. It began to get frighteningly hot so I got off at the MLK exit and took some back roads until my car cooled down. I stopped at my uncles house and he found out that a cooling fan(well the accord has 2 and the Left from drivers seat, right from viewing it was the culprit)wasn't working. He tried to hot wire the cooling fan with no luck. He added antifreeze and let the car cool down while watching American Idol. I drove home on I95 in NON-CONGESTED traffic without the car getting hot. It was like a 70's beetle, Aircooling! At the few red lights on the way home, the thermometer rose and feel when the car began moving.

    Come Saturday (I car pooled to school that week),I bought a new Shroud, motor, and fan for $90 and when I finally(with my dad and neighbors help) uninstalled the old one, the new one didn't fit right! I should have took a picture. Literally, the wires were on the opposite side and the the holes for screws weren't close to lining up.

    After r- packaging it back into the box, I took the Expedition to Advance Autoparts and got an exchange for just the motor and was refunded the difference(~$46). Got home put the new motor on old unit,reinstalled everything and all was good.

    It took about 2hours but I saved about $200 on labor to be a D.I.Y.-er. 2days later and the two fans work great! And I got to see the fight!

    Though aging and 3generations behind the times, my accord is holding up fine. maintence is low, easy, and quite cheap! I don't know how that'll change WHEN I get my Jetta/GTI MK4/5 or possibly gen5 prelude.

    Soon, I'll post a PIC of my neighbors new 08accord v6. Its like mine but sans the spoiler and adding navigation, cylinder deactivation, space, safety, weight, power, MPG, and a beige interior.
    -Cj :) :shades:
  • bioraybioray Posts: 3
    That post confirmed what I was thinking. I disconnected the vac tube to the egr valve and my problem disappeared. One more question. Will it hurt to run the car with the egr valve vac tube disconnected? No time to fix during the week. Thanks
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I have no idea what it could cause, other than you would probably fail an emissions test.
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