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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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  • I have a 1993 honda accord and when it gets warmed up and settles down to a decent idle (around 1000 on the tach) the steering columns vibrates something fierce. I have a suspicion the motor mounts are completely shot. When I give the car any gas the vibrations go away. Any ideas?
  • bioraybioray Posts: 3
    nothing has happened yet! I'm so glad that my state has no emission test.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    sounds a little high for the idle (1K). Maybe 750 or so.

    yeah, a broken or failing engine mount.

    there's a test for it. you can google it. i think it involves putting the brake on with the vehicle in gear and applying a bit of throttle to see if the engine moves appreciably. maybe it is in the accord '02 forum, but something should be found on the web.
  • ece3446ece3446 Posts: 32
    Hi all,
    I have a Honda Accord 1997 with 202000 miles on it (Auto, 4cyl) that seems to have spongy brake. Every time I step on it I feel like I am going to hit the floor. Is this a known issue and if not what needs to be done about it?
    Thanks.
    P.S. I recently changed my disk pads and shoes.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    While the brake pedal feel is much softer than that of newer Accords (I probably push the pedal twice as far to stop in my 1996 Accord than in my 2006), if you feel there could be a problem, have your brake master cylinder checked for leaks. Mine had to be replaced around 160k miles.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Spongy brakes are a sign of air in the system. You would have to bleed the brakes, to get the air out. If the brake fluid is dirty, or hasn't been changed in 3 years, you may want to change it now. If the pedal sinks to the floor, the master cylinder could be leaking. A leaking master cylinder will not leak out (you will not see fluid coming out of the master cylinder) it is only bypassing the seal on the cylinder shaft. Here's a link describing the bleeding process. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.
    http://syclone.motocrew.com/CG5/brakebleed.htm
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    Hey that was my 1000th post!! Aww mann I wanted it to be the title of that post! I'm glad My 1000th post is pretty much in the room I made my very 1st post before I got my car almost 2years ago!!

    Just wanted to say thanks to everyone(esp mamamia) for all the help with my car over the last 1.9years!

    Cheers! Many more reliable years with this great car and this great forum for info! Its been a great 1000... Well 1001 now!

    -Cj
  • Hello lists,

    I have 97 Honda Accord with 82,000 miles on. The wheels need alignment (by local mechanic shop). I am also planning to change both sides of drive axles because of broken CV joints (DIY).

    I am wondering if I would change drive axles after alignment or vice versa. Are these two systems close related? Does it matter in order?

    Thanks for your reply in advance.

    sdd
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Posts: 698
    Always do the CV joints first, and then take it to a reputable shop (not every mechanic can do an alignment, and you need special, large equipment for that... body shops do it usually) for an alignment.
  • I live in Alaska where temps can get as low as negative 60 degrees. I have been looking around for a frost plug for my honda so I can plug it in at night. I went to Napa, and a place called Schucks with both are reputable auto parts stores up here. However they both had me sold on what they say is the only kind of frost plug for my car. I compared both of them and they were the same plug, except napa's gave the detailed instructions on where to install it. Easy huh? Well, I went home and pulled the seal out where it say's to put the frost plug and there wasn't any threads in the hole where it should have been. The plug I received had a threaded end which would just screw into the engine block. Does anyone know if they make a different plug meant for my car and where I could find one. Or, with out having to take off a bunch of parts where is the location to install it. I looked all over where I could visibly see with a light and the only hole was in the rear (firewall) center of the block, but that wasn't it.

    Help please,

    Nitro74d
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I'd suggest redoing the front struts while you are at it. Save you a re-alignment and hassle later.
  • ece3446ece3446 Posts: 32
    Thanks guys for all the info.
  • I just found your post while searching for solutions to the same problem on a '94 Accord.
    Did you get the problem corrected?
    What the heck is the O2 sensor heater?
    Thank you.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I think it's part of the sensor.
  • All 1997 Accords have 150,000 mile warranty on emissions. (U.S. Govt. settlement) I brought it to the dealer and they replaced the oxygen sensor #1. Problem fixed.
  • Does anyone know where the frost plug hole is on the block of a Honda Accord? Or if there even is one on my particular model?

    I bought a plug which they told me fits, however I have not been able to locate the place it belongs in.

    Thanks for any help.

    Charles
  • Does anyone have a good experience ordering new floor mats for a '97 Accord (EX 4-dr) online? I'm going to stop by a dealer at lunch today to see what they retail for there. Thanks in advance! :)
  • i have a 1994 honda accord. continues to fail ASM emmission test.
    HC ppm = 1800 allowed 127, NOx 1600 allowed 910.
    replaced the catalytic coverter (results were reduced to 300 NOx ppm, HC remained 1800.
    Replace the oxygen sensor HC ppm = 2000, NOx=1600 both failed,
    Timing is good,
    No vacuum leaks,
    Plugs have been replace.
    How can I reduce readings to within allowable limits?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,806
    This is a misfire problem I think. Maybe you should do a compression test or at least a cylinder balance test to see if you're beating your head against a very thick wall, like a burned valve or tight valves that need adjusting (I THINK you can adjust the valves on that engine---not sure).

    But such high HC is almost always an incomplete combustion issue, i.e., ignition or related.

    Maybe funky injectors?

    MODERATOR

  • I posted my question is here on Edmunds Answers. Same title.

    Brief Summary: Larger cooling fan not working. Replaced motor($48), sender($32) & sensor($12), and checked fuse by switching wtih power windows. Windows still worked. Still no action from larger fan(the right looking into car. Left from drivers seat) while smaller A/C fan is still working. Need Ideas, a part name, or repair place. Local mechanic recommend sensor and sender change. When hot wired to the battery, larger fan worked perfectly... but I cant leave it like that!

    I asked at Autoparts Advance. He recommended a Temperature Switch change($44).

    Car gets to 3 quaters hot but thats as high as it will go as running my A/C provides some cooling as smaller a/C fan still runs. Not the Thermostat as when it says the car is getting hot, it starts to act sluggish and the interior begins to feel hot. Only noticed at red lights. While moving(25+mph not and directly behind someone like traffic), mother nature cools the car down to normal operating temperature.

    Currently Carpooling and Driving Dad's Expedition (OMG IT CAN BURN $80 IN GAS IN NO TIME!!) and can't wait to be back in my own seat and to stop paying $80 in gas...

    image

    :sick: -Cj
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Don't know for sure if your car has one, but have you checked the fan timer? Read this link on overheating. It may give you some ideas on what's causing this. If you scroll down the page, it shows how to test the fan, relay, switch, etc.)Good luck :)
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html
  • Thanks, I'll need every bit of it!! I miss my car!! :cry: I fixed the antenna so it could go up and down, used chevron gasoline and the chevron additive, washed waxed and vaccumed it , and bought a sunpass all for it to get "warm" the following day. :sick:

    Good news is that there is this nice 1994 Acura Vigor MT sitting at the local dealer :blush: ... :P They want $3,700 and its whistle clean too!!! Iheart5cyl's too!! BUT thats if my car kicks the bucket beyond repair and I find $3,700...

    -Cj
  • Can anyone point me in the direction of a good Honda mechanic in the Annapolis, MD area. I have a '95 Accord EX with 185,440 miles and it didn't pass the emissions test! HC was .7436 that passed. CO was 9.7428 that passed. My problem is the NOx it was 3.7803 and it should not be over 2.1000.

    I also have a few other problems that I would like to have fixed. I love my baby and have been driving her for the last 12 years. I bought her brand new and have taken good care of her. She's just getting a little old and I need someone who can help me take care of her!
  • Yeah, I got some taupe ones for my '97 on Ebay from magautoparts...they're a Honda dealer... they have some for about $75. I got them 2 years ago now, they fit and match perfectly...it's your best my IMHO.
  • Update: 2/17/2008

    I wrote this post about poor mpg when I first got my accord. The mpg was so bad that I was even thinking about getting rid of the car. Well I’m glad I didn’t.

    It seems that city driving is terrible on my car. I get about 200-15 per 13-14 gallon tank. The car performs completely different on long hauls. I took a 250 miles trip today and only used half a tank of gas (I filled up on ‘regular’ from Mobil). I was cruising between 60-75 mph most of the time. I haven’t done much work on the car. I did a tune up (plugs, wires, fuel filter) and added a can of valvoline Fuel Injector cleaner about 2 months ago.

    Do you think the mpg will increase by adding a cold air intake? The muffler is also shot dead - the join to the exhaust pipes is rotten and pretty much broken off.

    Thanks for your help!
  • I've been having the same problem. I have a 1995 V6 and it's been doing it intermittently for months. I got new spark plugs and a distributer cap and a new speed sensor for it and it still does it. What do i do now?
  • jewelb - I've had someone recommend Accurate Automotive on Chincoping Ave as providing reliable maintenance. According to their web site, they only deal with Acuras and Hondas. I live in Columbia and found that Foreign Auto Experts in Elkridge to be very reliable. I've taken my '95 Accord there for years and they worked on my '90 Accord when necessary. Good luck!

    PJ
  • my car was overheating, we replaced the thermostat and it worked for a while, then it started to overheat again. so we flushed the radiator and it was just fine while we ran it the last time. then i went to put it in gear and it wouldnt go. tried turning it off and turning it back on. still nothing.

    so then i turned it off and now it wont turn over. tried pushing it while it was in gear [clutch was in], and the car wouldnt go. put it in neutral and parked it. now it wont go back into gear.

    aaah! help!
  • About 2 weeks ago my car stopped running out of the blue i had driven it 2 hrs prior and it started and ran just fine. After checking the compression the following day and finding that that wasn't the problem i changed the spark plugs and it started on the first try although there was some oil in the 2nd spark plug cylinder from the right. 2 days later same thing all over again.. drove home from work about a 15-20 min drive without any problems and still wouldn't start the next day... pulled the plugs again and the plug from the 2nd cylinder definitely looked "black" not oil but carbon. Also i changed the air filter, wire set, and the valve cover gasket. When all was said and done the car started once again definitely running alot rougher than before though... come to find out that the 2nd cylinder from the right wasn't firing in the correct sequence or at all i couldn't tell. :confuse: My Dimwhitted friend who was helping me at the time decided that he would try to adjust the timing by rotating the distributor to see if he could get the 2nd cylinder to fire at all, needless to say i was not a big fan of that idea because i know how important timing is to an engine, so he took it upon himself to do it while i was making a pit stop. Still started repeadly after that lil adjustment but did not fix the problem. At this point we decided to call it a day and when i tried to start the car the next day back to square 1 with the whole not starting problem again. Dont know if ive given u enough info or too much for that matter but any help u can offer me is greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • You are experiencing the same thing I'm experiencing. I too have a 1997 Accord lx with a 2.2 engine. I am receiving the same exactly calculations in gas mileage per gallon as you described. Hoping to remedy the poor gas mileage problem, I replaced my spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, air filter and fuel filter all last Friday. After I replaced all the parts I did a 275 mile trip and it used just under half the tank of gas. But I returned home and started driving work again, and it appears I am back to the 14 mpg problem. One thing I did notice when changing out my spark plugs was oil in the spark plug holes. I'm wondering if this is causing the poor gas mileage. Did you notice oil around your spark plugs when you changed them out?
    I only drive 3 miles to work daily in cold weather and my car has 157000 miles. Not sure if 14 miles per gallon city driving is normal given the age of the car and the driving conditions. I'm going to purchase a new valve cover gasket kit and some fuel injection cleaner additives to see if it will fix the problem. Please let me know you have found a fix or if you have any suggestions. I'll also keep you updated. thanks, polo
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