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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    :) ">link titleSave yourself some money.
    Look at http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/
  • drzoltardrzoltar Posts: 6
    This exact same thing happened to me a month ago. Finding a step by step solution on-line has been difficult. I talked to the parts manager at my local Honda dealership, but he didn't know what to do.

    I have checked the links that others have posted with the layout of how to get to the cigarette lighter. But are there any step-by-step instructions on how to actually replace it? Like a previous poster stated, there doesn't seem to be any screws or anything to hold the lighter in place. And I'd hate to disconnect it in the wrong place only to mess up the wiring.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Hey guys, just thought I'd check in.

    I'm having several things done to my car.

    1.) New Timing Belt, Water Pump, and Antifreeze - $427 with labor
    2.) New left front drive axle (the old one is busted and knocking) - $300 with labor
    3.) New Valve Gasket Cover (the old one was leaking slowly, and hard as a rock, supposed to be flexible)- $35, no labor charge
    4.) New Balance Shaft Belt (the old one was stretched and off one tooth) - $15, no labor charge and the price for the part is cost

    $792.00 for the above. Thoughts, comments?

    TheGraduate
    1996 Accord LX 2.2, 4-speed automatic, 180,000 miles
  • lastwraithlastwraith Posts: 350
    Nice link omarr! Weird how they divided the '91 svc manual into MANY separate pdfs but you can't beat the price ;)
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    $792.00 for the above. Thoughts, comments?

    Considering that many places charge at least that for just the timing belt/water pump, I'd say that is a good deal. I'm sure the place is also reputable and does good work. ;)
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Just done the same to my 1997 Accord.

    Timing belt 21.99
    Balance Shaft Belt 14.99
    Valve Cover Gasket 22.99
    Water Pump 33.99
    CV Halfshaft 59.99
    Antifreeze 11.99

    Total…165.94
    Labor = One Saturday / $626.06 /$ 78.00/hr

    :) All the way to the bank
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Shame on you, omarr ;)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Yes, they are the same people who have done all my body-shop work for me, and did an excellent job.
  • jjzhangjjzhang Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 Honda accord with 149000 miles. The car randomly stalls when I am going to stop or stopped. There is no symptom before it stalls. At the first several times, I need to wait for one minute to restart it. Later on, I have to spend more time to make it restart. And the frequency of the stalling is becoming larger. I went to a mechanic one week ago. He did fully tune up, cleaned the fuel injector, checked the wires. I spent $360. But the problem still exist. There is no error code. the mechanic cannot find the problem.
    I was frustrated.
    Any one give some clue? Thanks in advance.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    You could just have a vacume leak. Try this. Get some throttle body/carb cleaner, start the engine and let it idle, spray the cleaner on every hose you can find. If the engine changes it's tune (bogs) you've found your leaking hose.
  • rjduecerjduece Posts: 1
    1994 ex wagon will not shift unless you use key to manually release lock!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,930
    brake interlock switch. I bet you don't have brake lights either. Go check.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • hondatech2hondatech2 Posts: 6
    Hi everyone,

    I'm new to this site, and I was checking it out because I just picked up a 97 accord coupe LX. I was a honda tech from 94 to 97. I saw some one post that you needed to get an alignment after having drive axles replaced. This is not true. Breaking loose the lower ball joint will not disturb anything that has to do with your alignment. If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask. I may not be able to troubleshoot everything, but I could point you in the right direction.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Welcome to the forum. Maybe you can help a few owners, and (if you're lucky ;) ) learn a thing or two yourself.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I just had my LF drive axle replaced. No alignment needed, like you say.
  • Recently I've been hearing screeky sounds as I brake. ( I drive a 1997 Honda Accord four-door LX). So while I had my oil change at an auto shop, I had them check it. They told me to replace both the brake pad, bearing, and the rotor at the front. They told me its an safety issue because the pad had a crack and the rotor was worn out due to heat related impacts... I don't know anything about cars. So I went along with what they told me. The final cost was $723 including labor. After reading so many blogs, it seem that Honda makes pretty good brake systems and its rare to see their brakes to have problems. But then again, I had to look at other issues like : I live in San Francisco, and I had to park on the inclining streets where I often use my emergency brake. I don't know if the auto shop owner was telling me to change it because they wanted to make $$... or they are really doing it for my own safety concern?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The emergency brake usage shouldn't be a problem. Mine has been used every single time the car is parked, and it now has over 180,000 miles on it.

    I can't really comment much on the other issues though, simply because I haven't had them.

    I know it is in hindsight now, but next time you get a quote for so much $, get a second opinion. I got one quote on my timing belt for $720, not including changing the water pump (which should be done when the belt is changed, every 90k miles in this generation of Accord 4-cylinder). I got another quote for the belt, waterpump, and new antifreeze, and the total was right around $400.

    When in doubt, check it out.
  • hondatech2hondatech2 Posts: 6
    A couple of things to think about. You said that they replaced the front brakes. The emergency brake only uses the rear brakes, so parking on inclines has nothing to do with it. Now if you drive in a lot of stop and go traffic, this can over heat your brakes, causing cracking and glazing to the pads, that will create squeals when braking. Have you owned this car since new? If not who knows who the manufacture of the rotors or pads is. If your mechanic doesn't work at a honda dealer, most likely the parts he used aren't honda parts either. Honda states in the owner manuals that the brake pads contain metallic pieces in the pad therefore a little bit of squealing is normal. What exactly do you mean by screeky sounds?When you take a car to be repaired, always ask for the old parts back, so you can look at them yourself. Also before the repair is done ask them to take you to your car and show and explain what they are talking about. All and all I would say that it sounds a little high to me. And bearings are not a normal part of a brake job. They must have had some play in then.
  • hondatech2hondatech2 Posts: 6
    400 is a great price for a timing belt, water pump. The 720 is more in the ball park. It doesn't cost much in parts but it is pretty labor intensive. Its unbelievable someone would change the belt but not the water pump.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The good part is that the people who did the $400 job have also done some great body-work on the same car in the past when I've gotten hit, so I really trusted them. I've never had to go back because of a problem with the work. I knew $600-$700 was normal, and my dealer wanted $850 for the belt/pump.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    The parts for doing the rotor/pad repair are approximately $190.00.
    Honda's 94/97 rotor design makes this a horrible task.
    The complete steering knuckle has to be removed on both sides.
    The wheel bearings are destroyed when removed from the knuckle.
    This has to be done to get the rotors off.
    This job is not for the casual home mechanic.
    You need the proper tools, which the casual home mechanic will not have.
    Brake Pads/Shoes - Front about $30.00.
    Brake Rotor x2 about $60.00.
    Wheel Bearing - Front x2 about $100.00.

    I just completed this job on my own car,
    The $723 including labor for a place of business was a fair price.
    Check it out at
    ">link titlehttp://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528003a46a
  • hondatech2hondatech2 Posts: 6
    Omarr, are you a parts man for a living? Look at your link again for replacing front rotors. It says except for 96 and 97. We are in a 94-97 discussion group. I'm pretty sure that up to 97 the front rotor is still held on by two screws. They can be difficult to get out and you may need a impact screw driver. I have even had to drill them out before, that's why you need to use anti-seize. After 97 is the rotor over hub design, which then you may want to replace the bearings. Wheel bearings are never destroyed unless they were bad in the first place, or you destroyed them taking them out. I am a heavy equipment foreman, and I work with bearings the size of your tires, bearings can be removed and races knocked out.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    The brake rotor on the 94/95/96/97 Honda Accords that I have worked on has the rotor pulled from the rear of the hub. They are held on with 4 bolts. Total dismantle of the knuckle assembly is required.
    Some models may be different, example models with rear discs.

    98 changes and the the front rotor is held on by two screws and is pulled from the front. This is simple to do.
    The AutoZone link does not always have the exact/correct illustrations.

    Step 13 of the AutoZone link says!
    On late models of the Accord and Prelude, use a hydraulic press and suitable press tools to remove the front hub/bearing assembly. For specific details, refer to the hub/bearing removal and installation procedures in this section.

    I will not put any information on this site unless I have done the job myself.
    No WAG’s from this ole boy

    Read the book for complete documentation.
    http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Follow up!
    The brake rotor on the 94/95/96/97 Honda Accords that I have worked on has the rotor pulled from the rear of the hub. They are held on with 4 bolts. Total dismantle of the knuckle assembly is required.
    Some models may be different, example models with rear discs.

    98 changes and the the front rotor is held on by two screws and is pulled from the front. This is simple to do.
    The AutoZone link does not always have the exact/correct illustrations.

    Step 13 of the AutoZone link says!
    On late models of the Accord and Prelude, use a hydraulic press and suitable press tools to remove the front hub/bearing assembly. For specific details, refer to the hub/bearing removal and installation procedures in this section.

    I will not put any information on this site unless I have done the job myself.
    No WAG’s from this ole boy

    Read the book for complete documentation.
    http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/
  • jokerjoejokerjoe Posts: 1
    My accord ran hot the other day, it appeared low on coolant. I filled it up drove it for 3 days, now it is running on the hot side again. I can not see any visible leaks or cracks, dripping liquid etc. Also, at idle it just began revving up in park/neutral from around 1000rpm to close to 2000rpm. Any thoughts. Thermostat stuck? Any help is appreciated.
  • jjzhangjjzhang Posts: 2
    Thank you. I will try.
  • ds337ds337 Posts: 2
    Hello everyone, been reading the message back to last October and haven't found anything that matches the problem that I'm having. I have a 1995 Accord LX, I4, non-VTEC, automatic trans, with 200k miles.

    On a cold engine, I can hit 4k+ RPM without problems. About 15 mins after I start the engine, the check engine light turns on and the car won't go over 3k RPM. I can drive fast, slow, or drive to the gas station and turn off the engine and it's almost always 15 mins after I first start the cold engine. When I hold the gas down steady, it will oscillate between 2.75 and 3.25k RPM and if I give it more gas, it will back fire periodically while oscillating.

    Been meaning to go over to a friends to get the code but haven't been able to sync up with him. Anyone have any ideas what is going on? Am I completely hosed?

    Thanks in advance for any help... :)

    -Ds
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    AutoZone will read your Check Engine Light for free.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    When you say it won't go over 3K rpm, are you saying it won't do that while in neutral without a load on the engine, or are you saying while driving down the highway, you can't get the engine under load to ever go over 3K?
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