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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • erchavezerchavez Posts: 5
    Got it. The drain connection is right under the glove box on my 94 accord. I pulled off the hose and water went everywhere! The blockage was up in the catchpan not in the hose. I just took a peice of wire and poked it back up into the catch pan to clear the debris.
  • erchavezerchavez Posts: 5
    I have an engine sputter that seems to occur between 1500 & 2700 rpm. Outside of that range its fine. I have no check engine light and the local Goodyear guy says its the dist & rotor....Replaced those as well as the plug wires and plugs.....injectors ar cycling and have the correct resistance between terminals (2.5 ohms).

    Anyone got any ideas? I'm stumped!
  • erchavezerchavez Posts: 5
    Never Mind.....clogged EGR ports in my air intake.
  • Hi all,

    I have a 96 honda accord with 180000 miles have a speedometer that goes from swinging wildly to dead.....odometer and cruise control only works when the speedometer works. Tachometer works at all times....engine seems to lurch at times as well. believe it is the vehicle speed sensor but want to be sure before i order it. when i look at auto zone or e bay it shows a small control unit or 1 with cords coming off of it....i dont understand which one i need.....also is this just off of the distributor? any help with testing, removal, and replacement would be great.....is ordering one off of e bay ok? thanks, keenan
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    This link is mostly about 90-93 Accords, but your car is probably very similar. It has troubleshooting, so you can test parts. Good luck :D
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/vss.html
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I should mention here that my '96 Accord LX had its odometer/speedometer fail at 111k miles. It wasn't the VSS.

    Not sure how you'd check to see if it was one or the other, as my speedo jumped around (going from showing proper speed, to zero).
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I should mention here that my '96 Accord LX had its odometer/speedometer fail at 111k miles. It wasn't the VSS.

    That's why it's important to diagnose/trouble-shoot a problem, before just guessing a part. Good point.
    The speedo clusters have been known to go out too (do you know some of them were made by Ford? :surprise: )
  • bkempebkempe Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Honda Accord. I recently purchased an iPod, and an FM transmitter for it. The cigarette lighter was spinning around, so that the iPod wouldn't stay were I wanted it to. So, I pulled that panel off, and saw that the rear portion of the cigarette lighter wasn't attached. I screwed the two pieces together, then put the panel back together. Since I was't doing anything significan to the electrical system, I left the battery connected. Once I got things put back together, the cigarette ligher didn't work AND the radio back lights would come on, but not the radio. Does anybody have any ideas where I should look for either a broken wire or have I totally screwed up the car?
  • I just got a 1997 Honda Accord Special Edition. The check engine light was on when I bought it. I went to auto zone to use there tester and I couldn't find where to plug in (typically under the steering wheel), the worker couldn't find it either. Any ideas? Can you turn the check engine light off with a sequence of operations like other Honda's? Thanks!
  • Tim,

    On my 96 the plug is behind the ash tray....try pulling the ash tray out and it should be right there......good luck....ktk
  • daves14daves14 Posts: 2
    The radio and lighter are on the same circuit, I suggest you check the fuse, under the hood, passenger side, on top near the windshield.
  • daves14daves14 Posts: 2
    Same thing happened to me. To remove the center console see directions at http://www.installdr.com/InstallDocs/Honda/PDF/466037.pdf . I removed the 15A fuse for the radio and lighter circuit before doing this to prevent shorting out the circuit. The female part of the lighter when you use it screws into a larger female cylinder behind the console. (A transgender part).
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    keenanknight is correct about location of the OBD-2 connection, behind the ash tray
    I believe that you must use a code reader to read the OBD-2 codes.

    To turn the check engine light off.
    1. Turn the ignition switch off.
    2. Remove the BACK-UP (7.5 A) fuse from the under hood fuse/relay box for 10 seconds to reset the ECM.
    The fuse/relay box is on the passenger side near the firewall and hood hinge.
  • ive got a 97 accord with an auto . it will drive to the bottom of my 100 yard driveway then quit. it just revs like its in neutral. if i get out and unhook the batt, and hook it back up it will drive about the same distance..... could someone please tell me what i might do to fix this situation? thanks in advance
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    More info needed.
    Does the motor quit?
    Does it do the same in all gears?
    Are you sure unhooking the battery does anything?
    Can you wait the same length of time with the motor off and move the same distance after restart ?
    Have you checked the transmission fluid level? Use only Honda compatible fluid?
    Is the check engine light on?
    How was the car acting prior to this condition? All of a sudden yes /no
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Two questions. Does the D4 light start flashing or go out (even when the car is in Drive), when this is happening? When you start the engine, is the D4 light on, even after 2 seconds (with the shift lever in Park)? These are signs that the transmission computer is toasted.
  • i had the same problem and went ahead and replaced the float system in the tank and made sure i had a good ground. . now it works. i ran out of gas 2 times figuring it out. my gas lite works now also. these cars are something else. but im sure if u do that your probs will be solved.
    i got the float on line at carparts.com for 67.00 i have another veh. i learned not to do to a dealer. even thought a carparts place dont show it listed. if there is a will there is a way.
    dealers always mark up there parts. i get even after market parts. at least they work.
  • check the bulb. if the trany shifts ok its not the trany. . check the ground comming off the wiring harness. the hondas esp the ones made in canada have alot of problems with ground connections.
  • check the buld socket. or ground. if the tranny shifts ok its not that. .
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Change the Master Cylinder.
    Honda is notorious for the M/C to fail with an internal piston seal failure.
    You will not see an external leak, The fluid is bypassing the seals internally.
    Bench bleed the new MC first.
    Install M/C, snug the brake lines, leaving slightly loose.
    Press pedal to the floor and hold, tighten the lines, finish bleed all 4 wheels.
    Been There Done That on 94 and 97 Honda's.
  • chick652chick652 Posts: 1
    Hey Guys,
    The garage can't seem to figure this one out so any advise would be amazing since I got to travel to Boston this weekend.

    Here is a little back ground (please keep in mind that I'm a rookie so bare with me)

    I have a 1997 Honda Accord with Air conditioning. It has an air conditioning fan and a Radiator fan.

    My radiator fan does not come on when my car reaches a very hot temperature. It will only turn on (work) if I turn on the Car's Air Conditioning and then both fans will work.

    If my car is hot and I turn off the car and remove my keys, the Radiator fan will come on (work) until it is cool but as soon as I start the car the fan does not work.

    If anyone has an idea, I left my car at the garage in hope that I can suggest a few things as they are doing some research as well and need to give them some possible solutions asap.

    I know that they should figure this out but I don't have time to bring it anywhere else and judging by some feedbacks on this site some foks know 110% more that these mechanics.

    If you know the solution and can provide some tips I swear I will take my car to your place or who ever you recommend but this time I'm stuck with these folks and dont' feel like spending $$$ to rent a car since I'm already in the whole.

    THANK YOU, honestly thank you.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I had to have the radiator fan motor replaced in my 1996 Accord LX when it hit around 130-140k miles (I can't remember since it has been awhile). The car would overheat when not moving since there was no air movement over the radiator. Yours doesn't appear to be a total failure, which is confusing. Hopefully the others here can help you diagnose it fully.

    In the meantime, if you start overheating, turn your thermostat all the way to heat. This pulls warm air out of your engine, and could prevent total overheating/head gasket destruction. It saved me. In the meantime, since it IS July, just run the A/C, and you won't have a problem (if what you described about both fans coming on when the A/C is on is true).
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    It could be your fan "timer", but you would have to do some testing to be sure. Here is a link with troubleshooting/diagnostic. It may give you some ideas. Good luck
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html
  • I have a 1997 Honda Accord with 190000 miles. Lately its been running hot, only in the city (at redlights though) When I'm driving on the highway its fine. Ive replaced the a/c cooling fan and the engine cooling fan. I've also replaced the thermostat gauge, and flushed the radiator. It still runs hot at stop lights, I have no idea what the problem is or how to go about fixing it.

    Also, the radiator fan only works when the AC fan is on, as in, only when I have the a/c working on the interior of the car....

    I need help, any suggestions?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Go through the troubleshooting in this link. It may help you narrow the possibilities. Good luck
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/overheating.html
  • my 97 honda did the same thing. i replaced the thermostat,radiator,fluid,flushed it out and its like brand new.
    i got an after market radiator for 90$ and 2.004 for the thermostat. . make sure u tighten the thermostat. but dont strip the cover to it.
    its easy to do. get a maint book from your local autoparts store. it takes about a good day to do it.
    make sure u dont drain the old fluid on the ground.
    mite as well change the oil and check everything anyway.
    make a day of it.
  • thanks, im thinking it may be the water pump
  • lorafloraf Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 honda accord 4 speed automatic transmission the 4 th gear indicator has a green light surrounding it and it is constantly flashing when the key is turned on. When trying to extract trouble codes the check engine light flashes nothing, but the 4 sp indicator light flashes 7 times pauses then continues the process again flashing 7 times pausing until the key is turned off. the car struggles to go 30 mph. Does anyone have a clue as to what the flashing light is telling me?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I think you should go to the local auto parts stores, and see if they can scan for the transmission trouble-codes. I don't know of any one digit codes (7). Have you checked the fluid level?
  • kwolfekwolfe Posts: 1
    Hello! 1995 Accord auto with AC that timing belt broke in. Took it to shop-replaced the timing belt and water pump. It started fine-got 4 or so miles down the road and it croaked! Would not and will not start. Will turn over but not start. Have changed out distributor, cap, plugs, coil, main relay, and computer with no success. Have put the parts mentioned above in another 1995 and that car will run-put them back in this car and it does not run. It turns over, gas pump runs, fuel squirts at fuel rail. The check engine light comes on when switch is turned on and goes off as normal. The trouble code is not showing on the check engine light-it is showing on the light above it and is a 52. 52 is not a valid code and the code should show on the check engine light! The plugs are getting fire. We have tried crossing spark plug wires to see if we can at least get it to backfire or something-still nothing! Tried taking plug out and pouring small amount of gas in cylinder and still nothing-not even a backfire. We have never seen anything like this! Any good ideas? A friend of a friend said it might be a cam sensor-what are your thoughts on that? Not sure which way to go other than a flame-thrower and a bucket of gas.... :mad:
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