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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Probable more here than you ever want to know about Honda Transmissions.
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html

    Code 7 possible "shift control solenoid A"
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    check out
    Troubleshooting the Honda Ignition System - Coil, Igniter and more
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html

    The shop that replaced the timing belt should be correcting the problem.
    Poor workmanship, timing, bent valves, incorrect cam/crank timing.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Transmission fault codes:

    Code 1: D4 light blinks:
    - Disconnected lock-up control solenoid valve A connector
    - Short or open in lock-up contorl solenoid valve A wire
    - Faulty lock-up control solenoid valve A

    Code 2: D4 light blinks:
    - Disconnected lock-up control solenoid valve B connector
    - Short or open in lock-up control solenoid valve B wire
    - Faulty lock-up control solenoid valve B

    Code 3: D4 light blinks or OFF:
    - Disconnected throttle position sensor (TP) connector
    - Short or open in TP sensor wire
    - Faulty TP sensor

    Code 4: D4 light blinks:
    - Disconnected vehicle speed sensor (VSS) connector
    - Short or open in VSS wire
    - Faulty VSS

    Code 5: D4 light blinks:
    - Short in A/T gear position switch wire
    - Faulty A/T gear position switch

    Code 6: D4 light OFF:
    - Disconnected A/T gear position switch connector
    - Open in A/T gear position switch wire
    - Faulty A/T gear position switch

    Code 7: D4 light blinks:
    - Disconnected shift control solenoid valve A connector
    - Short or open in shift control solenoid valve A wire
    - Faulty shift control solenoid valve A

    Code 8: D4 light blinks:
    - Disconnected shift control solenoid valve B connector
    - Short or open in shift control solenoid valve B wire
    - Faulty shift control solenoid valve B

    Code 9: D4 light blinks:
    - Disconnected coutershaft speed sensor connector
    - Short or open in countershaft speed sensor wire
    - Fauly countershaft speed sensor

    Code 10: D4 light blinks:
    - Disconnected engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor connector
    - Short or open in ECT sensor wire
    - Faulty ECT sensor

    Code 11: D4 light OFF:
    - Trouble in PCM

    Code 14: D4 light Blinks:
    - Trouble in PCM

    Code 15: D4 light OFF:
    - Disconnected mainshaft speed sensor connector
    - Short or open in mainshaft speed sensor wire
    - Fauly mainshaft speed sensor

    Code 16: D4 light blinks:
    - Disconnected linear solenoid connector
    - Short or open in linear solenoid wire
    - Faulty linear solenoid

    Code 17: D4 light OFF:
    - Short in kick-down switch wire
    - Faulty kick-down switch wire
  • tdufftduff Posts: 2
    i have a 96 accord the defroster doesn't seem to work well. the fan speed is ok ,the other positions work ok i get a green light on all but defrost. anyone got any ideas? thanx tom
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    1.) The defroster indicator light should be amber/orange, not green.

    2.) To properly defog windows, turn the A/C on and put the airflow on Fresh.
  • melanie10melanie10 Posts: 1
    I dont know what is wrong with my 97 honda accord but like 2wks ago i had the oil changed and i need water in my rediator and the temp. I dont know if it overheated or what, but it wont crank it has water in it and everything looks fine but someone told me that i may have a leak in hose. Help Me please!

    Melanie

    Any suggestions?
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    The folks will need more info if they are to help you.

    Oil change would not cause no start unless they didn't put oil in the car.

    Was the car running hot or not? steam, poor running ,etc
    Did you put water in the car or not? Is it still there?
    Remove radiator cap and look.
    If you run the car hot for a length of time you could have damaged the engine.

    I doubt the oil or water has anything to do with the no start.
    Does the engine turn crank over? Good Battery, jump start, etc
  • tdufftduff Posts: 2
    thanks i'll try it, but it doesn't seem like the defroster is opening all the way
  • phatpipephatpipe Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Honda Accord EX with an automatic transmission and 208k miles. It has started acting up lately. There are times when the car just won't start and the D4 light on the dash starts to flash. Below are the symptoms of my sick accord.

    Seems to only act up when it is hot (the engine) or extremely hot outside (air temp). Once the car cools down it starts up and runs (shifts thru all the gears) just fine. The last 2 days i have been able to drive the car to work in the morning only to come out after work and not have the car start. After waiting till the late evening hours when the outside air temps start to fall I was able to start it up and drive it home just fine. I jumped the service connector under the glove box and got what I think are 3 or 4 transmission fault codes. Below are the flashes I saw when jumping the service connector. These are all D4 flashes

    long flash, short short short
    2-3 sec pause
    short
    2-3 sec pause
    short short short short short short short
    2-3 sec pause
    short short short short short short short short

    then it repeats that order indefinitely. From doing some reading on the Internet I think the 4 codes I got were 13, 1, 7 & 8 (not exactly sure on this one). The engine light was on the entire time and from what I read that means there are no engine codes stored.


    Based on that information do you think you know what the problem is and is it something I could repair myself? Is it a major transmission problem that I am better off just selling the car and getting a new one or can this be fixed for a reasonable amount of money. When the car starts up normally the transmission works great. It has good power and you can not feel any slipping when accelerating hard, so that makes me think this is just a sensor or solenoid problem that should be somewhat easy to fix. But maybe that's just be being optimistic.

    Thanks for the advice,
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The engine light was on the entire time and from what I read that means there are no engine codes stored.

    If the check engine light is on, AutoZone should read this for free.
  • drzoltardrzoltar Posts: 6
    I've had a similar issue with my 1996 Honda Accord (Automatic). If the temp outside is in the 90's or above and my car has been sitting in the sun for hours, it won't start. I just get clicks and it won't turn over. I've brought it into the dealer at least twice right after this happens and their diagnostics find nothing wrong. But they do make sure to blame my after market car alarm.

    Letting the car cool solves this problem.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    phatpipe and drzoltar.
    Do you know where to find your transmission computer? If you do, take the cover off, and see if there are dark spots on the circuit boards (capacitors leaked on them). If so your transmission computer is the problem. You could find a used computer (make sure the numbers match), or some people can actually fix the old one. A new computer would cost at least $500, so that would be a last resort.

    Until you can repair the computer (if that is your problem) you may want to park the car in the shade (if possible). The inside (not outside) of the car being hot will make the problem worse. After the windows have been opened for a while the problem usually gets better. Good luck guys
  • I have 155K mi on my really clean 4-cyl coupe. I could hear an exhaust leak under the hood so I took off the heat shield to the exhaust manifold and found a crack all the way around the #4 cylinder pipe where it joins together with the #1 cyl pipe. I want to do the work myself so I've already made sure I can get all the nuts loose, especially the three that connect down to the exhaust pipe. Does anyone have any experience with the best option for taking care of this? I'm thinking that getting a used one will only set me up for the same problem in the near term, unless I could be sure it had low miles on it. New OEM ones are a bit expensive ($180 best price I found online; Honda dealers want $250). Dorman makes an after-market one out of cast iron for $75-100, but I don't know what difference cast iron might make with heat issues. Another thought was welding ($30-40), but it might just break in a nearby spot since it's an old exhaust manifold. But I don't know. In case it's relevant, the entire exhaust system on the car is still the original one. I'd prefer to not buy a new one. Anyone have experience with the other three options (buy used / welding / buy aftermarket)? Thanks!
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Where ever you buy the exhaust manifold it is probable going to be made by Dorman.
    The Honda manifold is cast iron .
    Some includes Gaskets and Hardware.

    Try local suppliers first to save shipping cost or find lowest shipping on net.

    These two web sites are really the same outfit, they just list price and shipping different.
    $131.16 total includes shipping.
    http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/basket.php?add_item_id=7777051
    http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?N=1631+10605+4294966982+9339

    :) $67.33 total includes shipping.
    No gaskets, go to auto parts store and buy
    http://www.doctorautoparts.com/exhaust-manifold-em--60028-item.html

    I have purchased from these outfits with no problem.

    Watch out for the O2 sensor, if you break it, big bucks
    Make sure mounting brackets on the exhaust pipe under the oil pan are in good shape. This is a double wall pipe and the brackets are welded to the outer wall and break loose. They can be welded back, big bucks for a new pipe.
  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    I have replaced manifolds many times, I say your best choice is buy a used one from a local auto wrecking yard, and a new gasket set from auto parts store, A used one in thats in good shape should out last the car, also because its a original brand is best, If you weld it , it needs welded by a professional welder that knows what he is doing, but the weld probably will brake again in a few years, because that manifold has to much deterioration so its best to get another good used one and it should out last the car. I have did this many times, no need to spend big bucks on buying a new one.
  • I have a '96 Accord EX Coupe, A/T, 155K mi. I have gone 50 miles highway beyond when the gas light stays on, not just comes on, and 40 mi. in stop and go traffic. And don't let it concern you because the gas gauge needle actually drops a little below the "E" on the gauge. I constantly take it 30+ mi. past. I trust the gas light, so far, and haven't run out of gas yet. There always seems to be at least two gallons in the tank left, based on what it took filling it up, so I'm guessing I could go past that 50 mi. all the time, but I don't know at what point the car might stop running even though there's gas left in the tank, and don't need to find out. FWIW, I almost always use Chevron (no ties to Chevron). Also, I get about 350 mi., combined hiway/city, per fill up.
  • With my 97 Accord pushing 260K, I am burning about a 1/2 quart every 3-5K. It would be great to know how much oil volume is represented between the two dipstick notches, so I can just add an educated amount of oil each time I notice I am low. Does anyone have this information?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 818
    Why not just run the level down to the low mark on the dip stick, add 1/4 qt and recheck level, repeat till you get to the full mark?

    Mrbill
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    It should be 1 quart from the low mark to the full mark, but you would have to do it Mrbill's way to find out for sure. Add a little at a time, till you get to the low mark, then start with a fresh quart. See if it holds true.
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    Car has been fine! The fixed power antenna stopped working... Again... Luckily I know how to fix it but I just need a rainless day to do it. 120,500 on the clock (more but odometer stopped working... Then started again...)

    On a sidenote, the "Maintenance Reminder" is rolling from green to the next color. Water pump, timing belt and all other belts, spark plugs and wires all replaced already. All I honestly know I need is an air filter and the brake pads are slowly starting to give out a short squeal. Anything else to take note of before I reset it?

    Btw, any air filter recommendations?
    95 Accord Ex v6

    MPG Update
    215-230 miles between fillups 80%city or about 17.5mpg City

    -Cj :)
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I run an STP filter in my 2.2L '96 and it does just fine. $9 or so at AutoZone.

    215 miles between fillups? Yikes!
  • kzookidkzookid Posts: 2
    96 accord lx 4 dr, 2.2l, 5m, 120k

    Within 5-10 miles on the highway my water temp goes very close to the red on the gauge. This happens with AC on or off. When I get on city streets, the temp goes to normal. I've changed the coolent last December and started noticing it this summer. Does it sound like time for a new thermostat? this has happened even with temps under 80 degrees. :confuse:
  • jshaw01jshaw01 Posts: 3
    My family has 2 Accords, a CR-V and a Pilot.
    My sons and I do all of our maintenance and most repairs.
    I would like to know what folks have found to be the best parts sources for Honda?
    Thanks.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I get all my maintenance items from HandA. They have much lower prices than the dealership, and if you buy a bunch of stuff, the shipping doesn't hit as hard. Link below
    http://www.handa-accessories.com/accord.html
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Problems could be in:

    flow.......water pump going bad, thermostat not opening enough, radiator has crud in it, not enough coolant

    or

    a head gasket problem, where you are getting exhaust gas being forced into your coolant chambers

    At highway speed you have plenty of air flow over the radiator, so problem wouldn't be related to fans.
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    Well i dont think its that bad for mostly city driving. Also I have the 2.7l V6 rated at 17/25. I'm getting about 18 so thats beating the EPA estimates. I just (2hours ago) changed my air filter and rechecked my tires. They're all on the low side but no more than 6PSI under and I keep them 4PSI over.

    Also, I need a new suspension still so I have a BMW Sports Package like ride and excessive leaning on on ramps which I believe is robbing my mpg. I was quoted $450 to raplace suspension and cv joints and boots and still saving up on that repair. I just fixed the A.C. and go new belts a week ago too.

    Did I mention my $2300 repair bill for a fender bruise in Feburary? Thats also not fixed yet...

    image

    I'm glad this car literally takes a lickin' and keeps on tickin'! :P
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    I suffered this a few months back and kiawah also helped me out. But make sure both fans (My 2.7l has 2...) cycle on and off. One (left looking at engine from the front) is smaller and is for the A.C. The other is larger and for the radiator. I had to replace the fan motor (Advance Autoparts replacement doesn't fit. only the motor), and then all was fine. You may want to get your waterpump checked out too. Mine was good then, but failed soon after.

    120750miles

    -Cj
  • I originally wanted to go with an OEM used manifold, but I couldn't find one locally for under a 100 bucks (plus tax and 10 bucks in travel gas), so...

    Thanks for your input and the links. It also spurred me to continue looking around some more, as usual for me, ever looking for the best deal. I found a new OEM replacement manifold at 1AAuto. The $74.95 includes tax and shipping, and a life time warranty. Bought it. I think it's a Dorman as well, without hardware, and made in Canada according to the two guys I talked with (I often like to double check info). I wanted to stay away from a unit made in China, which this one here might be, the last link you gave me. Can't tell. They couldn't tell me one way or the other. Also, I couldn't see the ports in the pic, how clear they were in case the casting job by the manufacturer wasn't very clean. And since their pic also "incorrectly" shows it for a "2.3L 4 cyl.", I took it all as telltale signs to be concerned about attention to quality. For 7 bucks more, the other made more sense.

    I don't see an O2 sensor anywhere near this manifold, just at the back end of the first pipe, pipe "A", under the car, so I should be fine in that regard, unless you're seeing something I'm not. Also, my Haynes manual doesn't say anything about it either for doing this job on my car. But thanks for the warning about not damaging the exhaust pipe, to go easy on it in this job. Very good point.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    There is an 02 sensor in the exhaust manifold.

    Go to this link and download this Service Manual.( Zip file)
    It is for a 94 but it will work. You may find more on this site
    .
    http://pdftown.com/Honda-Accord-1994-Service-Manual.html

    Look in the Engine Section, intake manifold/exhaust system, exhaust manifold replacement (p172) ,goto 9-3 (p174)

    I have the Haynes book but it leaves a lot to be desired.
    There are two 02 sensors, one before the catalytic converter and one after the converter.
    I would cut the heat shield on each side of the sensor so the heat shield will come off then you can get the manifold off and take the 02 sensor out.
    Special wrench other wise..
  • You're looking at the F22B2 engine on pg. 174 (9-3), but mine's the F22B1 engine (a VTEC engine) on the next page, 175 (9-4). The manifolds are different between the two as you can see. Page 175 (9-4) is a pic of my manifold, which doesn't have the sensor as you'll see.

    But thanks for the heads up about this manual. I do appreciate it.
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