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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jhrostjhrost Posts: 35
    I have a 95 Accord LX 4-dr sedan. I was out driving today. Near the beginning of this drive I heard a rattling noise up front. A few times after stopping at a sign and then speeding up again, the speedometer & tachometer would go down to zero for a few seconds, then go back up. After a while the noise disappeared and the gauges seemed to function normally. A half hour after returning home, I went back out to start up the car.

    It started up immediately and strongly, but then almost instantaneously died (a second or two) as if something wasn't engaging (rather than sputtering or choking or stalling as if it wasn't getting fuel). It seemed like whatever the next stage in the starting process that was supposed to occur wasn't occuring. Did this a few times with same result.

    Any suggestions/help/insightful thoughts would be appreciated.

    Regards,

    John
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Sounds like it could be the ignition switch. If you want to do some troubleshooting, here's a link that might help. Good luck. (the link is for 4th generation Accords, but hopefully the information still applies for a 95).
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html
  • jhrostjhrost Posts: 35
    Thanks. I'll read that material over. None of the interior stuff (radio, signal lights, wipers, etc) that would normally be operable with the key in the on position will come on now. The headlights and rear brake lights do come on. The various warning lights that flash on start-up do so very briefly went I turn the key all the way now, but they don't remain on after the start-up fails, which I think they normally did on occasions in the past when, for whatever reason, the car didn't start on the first key turn. Does that bit of information add any perspective?

    Thanks,

    John
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Sounds like the ignition switch. The head lights are not controlled by the switch, so they would not be affected. You probably need to change the electrical part of the switch, and not the lock cylinder (which would mean new keys). I've never done one, but I think you just have to remove a panel on the steering collum to get to the switch. The link I gave you should help in removing, and or testing it. Good luck
  • jhrostjhrost Posts: 35
    Installed a new ignition switch (with some difficulty, lol) and it works - thank you very much Elroy. Hopefully Ill have no further problems with this. :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Glad to hear it. :D How much did they charge you for the switch?
  • jhrostjhrost Posts: 35
    With 8% sales tax it came to $60.47 at AutoZone.
  • My 94 sunroof is stuck open. When you push the close button nothing happens(no motor sounds). Is this a common problem? Is there a way to test to see if it is the switch or the motor? I checked the fuse and it was good. I'd just like to get it closed so I can drive it.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    There should be a little crank in the tire-tool kit that you can use to manually crank the moonroof closed, until you can get it working again. You should be able to find a plug in the headliner, that you can remove, to insert the crank. Test to see if the power is getting to the switch, then see if the switch gets the power to the motor. Good luck
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    There are two relays associated with the sunroof. The switch activates the open or close relays. They are in the kick panel fuse panel. A lot of the relays are the same and you can swap they around to trouble shot. There are relays for some things in the engine area power panel near the left fire wall. Just check the relay numbers.

    Download this F.S. Manual it has complete documentation on the sunroof Electrical and Mechanical.
    http://pdftown.com/Honda-Accord-1994-Service-Manual.html
  • 97honda197honda1 Posts: 2
    my 97 honda accord has been inactive for 30 days. The battery is fully charged but only my horn works. I just recently replaced the battery cables. and tried to jump start it but nothing happens just the horn and brake light
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The horn and the brake lights don't need the ignition switch to operate. Do the head lights work? Does anything come on (dash lights, etc.) when you turn the key? If not check the ignition switch (electrical part).
  • anv1190anv1190 Posts: 4
    I have a 97 honda accord se. When I start my car it revs really high and then will start to rev up and down while im still in park. It tend to do the same thing when I sit at a red light longer than a minute. Im not able to put it in park or let it idle without it doing this. I already replaced one of the idling valves, got a new battery and cleaned out the valves. Any suggestions?!?
  • 97honda197honda1 Posts: 2
    the head lights doesnt work the over head light no electrical part of the car works
    except the horn and brake lights
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    :mad: Great! After months of happy motoring in my accord, I noticed that I felt kinda blind sighted when I was driving in the night... Then when I pulled up to my house, I saw my headlights are WAAAAY off in vertical aim. Any tips for getting them to aim right and possibly a how too?

    Oh and also, I actually got a chance to drive my sisters millenia at night. :surprise: I COULD SEE!!! :surprise: SO not only do I have off centered headlights, but they are quite dim now too. :sick: Any tips on brighter non xenon (H.I.D.) headlights?

    Finally as a sort of update, I solved my antenna issue. I just got it to retract all the way and unplugged it. So no more up and down. Then came the poor reception. I ended up just pulling it up some (spoiler height) and Its great reception without being too high. I am also saving to get some LED replacement taillight bulbs to replace my current bulbs. What are you guys opinions on this? I was going to use superbrightleds.com for my purchase but I have no clue where I want to go with this.
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    My accord wsconsuming oil at one point in time too where i was puttin in a quart per tankfull of gas. it turned out to be me needing two new oil valve cover gaskets. Since the repacement, I'm adding oil regularly. Also, my mpg went up too. :D

    $111 for parts and $80 for installation.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 818
    Do an Internet search on " how to aim car headlights" and you will find online information.

    Mrbill
  • I had the same problem with a ford explorer. Go and check the "O2" sensors. Is your check engine light on? if so, it's probably that.
  • hi im new to this so i dont know how to post an new blog i seen yours talking about 260k and i was wanting to know if you could help me out i have a 94 honda accord automatic 4 door and it starts a little when you start it up and over heated one time my dad said the car has 200k on it =-( but hondas are a good car for alot of miles the tranny has not gave a bit of proble and it only take 15 bucks to fill it up full of gas. is there anyway it would have a blown head gasket? it only smokes for a few mins wether it is below 60 or above 60 degrees. can you possibly let me know what would be wrong with it or respond me to someone on here that may know?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    When valve seals leak, they will leak into the cylinders while the car sits (not running). Then, when you start the engine the accumulated oil will quickly burn off. The oil that drips through the seals while the engine is running will usually not produce enough smoke to be noticeable. It's not something that will really hurt the engine, but it will only get worse over time. I have no idea how much a shop would charge to change the valve seals, but it shouldn't be astronomical. How much oil does the engine burn through between oil changes? If it's more than a quart in 3000 miles, or if the smoking is really bad (fouling spark plugs), it should be fixed, IMO.
  • krishanukrishanu Posts: 2
    Hi Unekgal,

    I am facing the same issue with my honda accord cigarette lighter. It's loose and coming out of the assembly. Please let me know how you had fixed it..
    Thanks.
  • krishanukrishanu Posts: 2
    I am having the same issue with my honda Accord cigarette lighter assembly. It's loose and falling out of the assembly. Any ideas how to fix it?
    Thanks.
  • drzoltardrzoltar Posts: 6
    There is a way to do it. You have to remove the center console to access it. If you search on-line for instructions on how to replace the radio in a 1996 Honda, it's essentially the same steps.

    It's very easy and should only take 15-20 minutes to do. I have almost no mechanical aptitude and I found it very easy.
  • jhrostjhrost Posts: 35
    For the last few days, the brakes feel kind of soft & "mushy"; that is, the resistance seems less than before. I haven't had to make any fast stops, but the brakes seem to work ok for the most part, even on steep downhills. Usually if you pump the pedal a couple of times the resistance seems to firm up, but even then, if you hold the brake down, you can sort of feel the pedal sinking under your foot, after an initial period of greater resistance.

    I bought the car new nearly 15 years ago (about 160,000 miles), and this is the first time, I believe, that I've had this exact problem. In earlier life, when my at-that-time economic circumstances compelled me to drive a succession of used American- made beaters, this was a not uncommon problem for me, but with the passage of time and the availability of more reliable Japanese-made cars, I've kind of forgotten what the exact cause of it is, though I'm sure I must have known the answer at one time.

    The first thing that popped into my mind was that the brake fluid must be low, but, as near as I could determine, the level seems to be ok. I know that in the full spectrum of automotive problems which can exist, this is a fairly common one, so I'm hoping that someone out there can jog my aging memory and tell me what's causing this symptom and what I could/should do about it.

    Thanks in advance for any advice or input. I greatly appreciate anyone's insight into the nature of this problem.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Sounds like your master cylinder is leaking. Mine was replaced in my '96 LX I4 at around 175k miles. Brake fluid been changed regularly? I bet not. Water gets in the brake fluid and breaks down the seals. Was a $300 repair at the dealer.

    No problems since, and I'm at 191k on mine. Amazingly, I've never replaced the rear brakes, and the fronts are still good after over 55k miles.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    The honda master cylinders internal seals will fail and there will no external leak.
    The fluid by passes the internal piston seal.
    My honda had the same problem, changed the master cylinder and now have excellent brakes. :)
  • jhrostjhrost Posts: 35
    Thanks for that amazingly swift feedback. You guys both sound pretty certain about the nature of this problem. Are there any other obscure and perhaps less costly explanations for what I'm experiencing, or is the master brake cylinder the culprit with something approaching metaphysical certitude?

    If I can't get around to a repair in the next couple of days, is it dangerous to drive this car - I mean, is there a possibility for a catastrophic brake failure?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    While I wouldn't postpone the repair too long, I drove mine for weeks before realizing a problem existed. it'll just slowly get worse, in all likelihood.

    And, that problem is fairly common, in many cars. It's easily diagnosed, typically. Catastrophic failure? Unlikely. The brake system is divided in half, I believe, so if one part goes (either Front Left and Rear Right, or Front Right, Rear Left) you should be left with the other portion.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If the brake pedal sinks, with steady pressure, either the master cylinder seals are leaking, or there is a fluid leak somewhere. If you don't see fluid leaking anywhere, you likely have a master cylinder problem. A spongy feeling brake pedal is a sign of air in the brake lines (need to bleed the air out). If the brake pedal seems to push back on your foot, that is a sign of vacuum/booster problems. Brakes are pretty simple, until you get into ABS, SC, etc.
  • jhrostjhrost Posts: 35
    Thanks to all for the insightful comments :)
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