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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • sib1sib1 Posts: 5
    speedo does not work sometimes it bounces and sometimes it works for a short
    time what could be the cause of this be.can somebody help
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    If the speedometer bounces around 19 / 20 mph the speedometer head is bad.

    If your cruise control works (maintains speed) the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) is good.
    Don't let anyone tell you it is bad.

    Honda calls the complete assembly a COMBINATION METER.

    You can find Honda information here.
    http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/ ;)

    Been there done that.
  • So recently my car broke down im 19 dont know much about cars in general, i am the second owner of this car, Car ran fine till one day driving on the highway going about 80mph the timing belt snapped, brought it to the repair shop, the mechanic said some valves got bent while the time belt snapped while driving, i get the car fixed and running again, car runs fine, only problem when driving whenever i accelerate my car it makes a loud like whistling sound, like kinda high pitched whistling sound, like air being possibly sucked in to something. if only the timing belt was changed earlier....sigh. maybe someone can help me out with why its making this noise?

    heres a list of what got replaced while at the repair shop
    Car has 148,000 miles so far
    *timing belt
    *HeadGasket set
    *sparkplugs
    *Intake Valve
    *Exhaust valve
    *thermostat
    *payed a good 1400 to fix


    im planning on driving to La soon, Kinda worried this whistling sound might be an early indication of worse to come lol. dont wanna break down while driving. car drives fine other thatn whistling sounds

    -andrew
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Take it back to the person you who did the repair work. They have done something wrong or didn't complete their job. Could be air leak or exhaust leak. Alternator, power steering or air condition belt tension. Over tension of timing belt or bad tension and idler rollers.

    :confuse:
  • All - Update. The Problem is finally Solved.

    A mix of things was causing the problem.

    A: The Ignition Coil was going bad.
    B: The EGR valve was caked with carbon.
    C: The OBDII Unit Needed Replaced.

    I can't be sure about the plugs/wires, but they could have been part of the problem too.

    I paid for the ignition coil myself $100 before finding out about Honda Service Bulletin 98-081. This warranties a long list of parts and the misfire code is one of those. This extends the warranty up to 150,000 miles or 14 years and since I am at 133,000 now all is well.

    Thank you to everyone for your help and suggestions. It is good to get fresh ideas and more places to look when one is frustrated.
  • Okay, since day one the ABS light has been on, but never caused me any trouble so I didn't do anything about it.

    The other day though when I started the car it was idling higher than normal up to 3 rpms & reving up without me pushing on the gas. It's also not changing into gears & in order to change them I have to use the shift lock key.

    Saw someone say it might be brake interlock switch, however I don't know & would like expert opinions.

    (Also, this might sound stupid but the 'brake light' light has been on since I got the car too & my brake lights work just fine.)
  • need to know why im getting to much fuel supplyed to spark plugs this is a 1995 honda accord 4cylinder fuel injection.
  • I recently noticed that my instrument panel lighting flickered on and off and now it doesn't come on at all. This problem seemed to start when it was raining for several days in a row. It flickered on and off for a while when I would hit the brakes or a bump. ANY IDEAS???
  • jw565jw565 Posts: 1
    94 accord need some help no cruise controlhello guys i'm new to this site i have a 94 accord 2dr 2.2 vtec that i just bought the cruise control will not set the lite comes on at the switch on the dash i'm not sure what check can anybody help
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Just to double check, you're pushing the cruise control button on the dash (by the air vent), then pressing the set-button on the steering wheel, at a speed greater than 25 MPH, right?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,525
    Could be lots of things. You might check your fuses, and (in my case) I fixed mine by finding a loose wire at the brake switch (which shuts off the cruise when you tap the brake).

    If not that, then it's electronic, in the control modules or servos.

    MODERATOR

  • I recently had my 94 Accord inspected. They said they needed to fix the wires on my fog lights. After driving my car off the mechanics lot it ran fine. After I drove about ten miles I started to have problems with my guages and the car kept on stalling. I would have to hold the switch on for the car to run. I finally made it home without holding it anymore. When I tried to start it later that day it would not start unless I held it in the start position again. I had it towed to the mechanic and he told me it was the ignition switch. My question is, is there any way he shorted the ignition switch when he was repairing the fog lights? He told me that there is no way that is connected with the ignition switch. The only reson I am asking is because this is the first time I used this mechanic and don't know if he is ripping me off.
  • i don't know if you are having the same problems as what I experienced but my ABS light goes on if I park on a hill for instance. I was told by a mechanic that if it does not go off within the first few moments of driving, then that would mean that the braking pressure or fluid was being unevenly distributed.
    i know that the 94s and maybe the 95s also have a factory defect with the rivet in the parking brake rod getting stuck.
    my car has idled high ever since i've had it and my dad says that is due to the timing being off and to change the timing belt (have done so three times since and it still does it though).
  • the part he checked on probably was straight from the factory, conforming to custom specs that are OEM and proprietary. you could have someone fix something togethr that would do the trick or get it from ebay for less than a quarter of the price they asked for.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If the idle is too high, the shift-lock will not allow the shift lever to move out of Park position. I think you have a problem with the FITV (Fast Idle Throttle Valve) or the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve). This is not a timing belt issue, I don't think.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I think it's highly unlikely the mechanic did anything to your ignition switch. Probably just a coincidence that it went out at that time.
  • I have a 1994 Accord and am looking for a TPS (throttle position sensor) which is part of the throttle body. Honda wants $700 for whole kit. Does anyone have any ideas as to where I can get one, used would be fine. I'm in Florida but willing to deal throughout the country. Thx. joe
  • thx. Will do. much appreciated
  • leowleow Posts: 1
    For the 3rd time in 14 years, my SRS warning light comes on. Again, it's the control unit that needs to be replaced. First time, Honda covered the repair under a recall. Second time, I paid. Now it's happened again and Honda refuses to accept responsibility--normal wear & tear. There are several dozen complaints--mine now as well--on the NHTSA web site. Anyone had this problem and, more importantly, convinced American Honda to own up to responsibility?
  • i can tell you from personal experience, your call definitely will be able to start with a flathead screwdriver. but i wouldn't recommend it in the slightest. it does something to the ignition that will lead you to have problems down the line.
    but yes, it is possible.
  • auburn6auburn6 Posts: 17
    I dont think it would be something he did however it could be a reason your fog lights dont work. Fix the electrical portion of the ignition switch first unless you have already had them re wired.
  • techman41973techman41973 Posts: 66
    edited February 2010
    I have a Honda Accord with over 280K. Recently the automatic
    transmission seized (3 mechanics confirmed its lost) and since the
    rest of the car is in excellent condition, I'm considering having a
    shop replace it with a used transmission (which is cheaper than
    getting a rebuilt one). I want the replacement transmission to last as
    long as possible.
    The owners manual recommends replacing the transmisson fluid every
    90,000 miles.
    Would changing and flushing the fluid more frequently help improve
    transmission life?
    How often would be best? Are there any differences in quality between
    transmission fluids? Anything else I can do to help automatic
    transmission longevity? Thanks
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    1.) Use ONLY the proper Honda transmission fluid.

    2.) Don't have your transmission fluid flushed. Drain, refill, drive a short distance. Repeat that three times. That'll effectively do the same thing, but without the threat of loosening up old particles and metal flakes that'll harm your engine, like a flush would.

    All of that said; how much are you putting into this rebuilt transmission? With the car approaching 300k miles, it likely is worth less than the transmission you'd put into it. I have a '96 LX with 207,600 miles on it as of today, and love it, but if the transmission died tonight there is no way I'd put money into the car. I'd pony up a few more dollars and buy a lower mileage vehicle.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Well, to me it's not what the transmission is worth to KBB, or the insurance company. It's what it's worth to me. Lower mileage doesn't always mean it's in better shape, and looks can be deceiving. There's a lot more to a car, than the transmission. So if the rest of the car is in good condition, and you want to keep it, go for the transmission replacement.

    I would use Honda ATF-Z1, and change it more often than 90k miles. How many times to change it, and how often, depends on the condition of the fluid drained out. No "power flushes" on Honda automatics.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Well, to me it just doesn't make financial sense to put $2,000 of transmission work into a $1,000 car. At 300k miles, a lot of things are just going to be "used up" or nearing their life-expectancy. I dunno, just would make me nervous to be upside-down in a car that was so worn.

    Just an opposing side to the same coin. I don't know what kind of money you're (the original poster) looking at for a transmission replacement. Care to share?
  • Sure. I have a reputation tranmission shop quoting me at $1500 installed for a used transmission. To me its worth it.
    To buy a lower mileage Gen-5 accord would cost me $2000 minimium, plus
    any repairs and maintenance it would require. And I don't know well the previous owner took care of it. I have taken excellent care of mine.
    My current Gen-5 accord is in excellent condition, the interior is almost brand new inside. Plus I've replaced it has many new components such as a starter, alternator, radiator. I just want to maximize the life of the replacement transmission.
    It seems that the consensus is to change the fluid every 20-25K.
    What's wrong with doing a flush? Is it harmful? Is it helpful at all?
    Thanks
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    What Honda calls a flush, is draining 3 quarts and re-filling, 3 or 4 times, with a short drive in between. There are very small passages inside the transmission, so forcing the fluid through "power flush", will force metal particles where they can get caught, and clog things up. 3 or 4 drain and fills may not be necessary, it all depends on the condition of the fluid before and after each drain and fill.

    Some people will not put more $$ into a car, if the insured value is less than what you would spend to fix it. If the car gets totalled in an accident, you lose money on the car. I have never totalled a car yet, and don't plan to, so I don't consider that a problem, and I'll take my chances that the car will not get totalled, before I get my money's worth out of it.
  • For the life of my gen-5 accord, I've had trouble removing my headlight bulbs when they need replacement. I can't get them to twist out. I usually just have my mechanic do it. I'm sure there is a trick that I'm missing.
    It would be great if someone can share it.
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