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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

1505153555692

Comments

  • I have a power steering leak somewhere. I'm constantly filling it up every other day. Would this be something I could repair on my own considering I'm short on funds right now. Will it cause other damages if I don't get this fix right away.
  • I recently rolled down my driver side window and now doesn't want to roll up. The passenger side windows roll down but dont roll back up from the master window switch. I have to roll them up by reaching across to the passenger door. My rear driver side window does roll up and down from the master window switch.
    Want to know if it is my master window switch or Power Window Switch Control Module/Relay???
  • Want to know if it is my master window switch or Power Window Switch Control Module/Relay???

    I recently rolled down my driver side window and now doesn't want to roll up. The passenger side windows roll down but dont roll back up from the master window switch. I have to roll them up by reaching across to the passenger door. My rear driver side window does roll up and down from the master window switch.
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Posts: 698
    ...Just stopped by for a short visit... I haven't been driving the '96 Accord for exactly 2 years now (did a trade-in for an '06 Sonata). Keep up the good work, thegraduate, let owners know about this extended warranty that could save them a lot of money.....
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Im doing my best! Check in anytime!
  • bioraybioray Posts: 3
    My 95 accord 4cyl vtec runs rough at low speeds with light throttle. Changed coil wires and plugs whith no improvement. I disconnected the vacuum line from the egr valve and the problem magically disappears. What's up with that. Is it the egr valve or the control solenoid or that vacuum control thing that is beside the egr control solenoid. Any help would be appreciated
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    The EGR valve and/or ports may be clogged up. It's a common problem. I used to have two links describing how to clean the ports, but unfortunately they both seem to have disappeared.

    Hey! found one. It's not as good as the 95 specific how-to, but it will give you some idea.
    http://home.comcast.net/~em-engineering/T2T013.pdf
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    Ok I didn't post it but i had an issue with my car for a few days. I was traveling down I95 in traffic and I noticed my car began to run hot. I was just passing the South Beach Exit and was in dead stop and go with no place to pull over. It began to get frighteningly hot so I got off at the MLK exit and took some back roads until my car cooled down. I stopped at my uncles house and he found out that a cooling fan(well the accord has 2 and the Left from drivers seat, right from viewing it was the culprit)wasn't working. He tried to hot wire the cooling fan with no luck. He added antifreeze and let the car cool down while watching American Idol. I drove home on I95 in NON-CONGESTED traffic without the car getting hot. It was like a 70's beetle, Aircooling! At the few red lights on the way home, the thermometer rose and feel when the car began moving.

    Come Saturday (I car pooled to school that week),I bought a new Shroud, motor, and fan for $90 and when I finally(with my dad and neighbors help) uninstalled the old one, the new one didn't fit right! I should have took a picture. Literally, the wires were on the opposite side and the the holes for screws weren't close to lining up.

    After r- packaging it back into the box, I took the Expedition to Advance Autoparts and got an exchange for just the motor and was refunded the difference(~$46). Got home put the new motor on old unit,reinstalled everything and all was good.

    It took about 2hours but I saved about $200 on labor to be a D.I.Y.-er. 2days later and the two fans work great! And I got to see the fight!

    Though aging and 3generations behind the times, my accord is holding up fine. maintence is low, easy, and quite cheap! I don't know how that'll change WHEN I get my Jetta/GTI MK4/5 or possibly gen5 prelude.

    Soon, I'll post a PIC of my neighbors new 08accord v6. Its like mine but sans the spoiler and adding navigation, cylinder deactivation, space, safety, weight, power, MPG, and a beige interior.
    -Cj :) :shades:
  • bioraybioray Posts: 3
    That post confirmed what I was thinking. I disconnected the vac tube to the egr valve and my problem disappeared. One more question. Will it hurt to run the car with the egr valve vac tube disconnected? No time to fix during the week. Thanks
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I have no idea what it could cause, other than you would probably fail an emissions test.
  • I have a 1993 honda accord and when it gets warmed up and settles down to a decent idle (around 1000 on the tach) the steering columns vibrates something fierce. I have a suspicion the motor mounts are completely shot. When I give the car any gas the vibrations go away. Any ideas?
  • bioraybioray Posts: 3
    nothing has happened yet! I'm so glad that my state has no emission test.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    sounds a little high for the idle (1K). Maybe 750 or so.

    yeah, a broken or failing engine mount.

    there's a test for it. you can google it. i think it involves putting the brake on with the vehicle in gear and applying a bit of throttle to see if the engine moves appreciably. maybe it is in the accord '02 forum, but something should be found on the web.
  • ece3446ece3446 Posts: 32
    Hi all,
    I have a Honda Accord 1997 with 202000 miles on it (Auto, 4cyl) that seems to have spongy brake. Every time I step on it I feel like I am going to hit the floor. Is this a known issue and if not what needs to be done about it?
    Thanks.
    P.S. I recently changed my disk pads and shoes.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    While the brake pedal feel is much softer than that of newer Accords (I probably push the pedal twice as far to stop in my 1996 Accord than in my 2006), if you feel there could be a problem, have your brake master cylinder checked for leaks. Mine had to be replaced around 160k miles.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Spongy brakes are a sign of air in the system. You would have to bleed the brakes, to get the air out. If the brake fluid is dirty, or hasn't been changed in 3 years, you may want to change it now. If the pedal sinks to the floor, the master cylinder could be leaking. A leaking master cylinder will not leak out (you will not see fluid coming out of the master cylinder) it is only bypassing the seal on the cylinder shaft. Here's a link describing the bleeding process. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.
    http://syclone.motocrew.com/CG5/brakebleed.htm
  • autoboy16autoboy16 Posts: 992
    Hey that was my 1000th post!! Aww mann I wanted it to be the title of that post! I'm glad My 1000th post is pretty much in the room I made my very 1st post before I got my car almost 2years ago!!

    Just wanted to say thanks to everyone(esp mamamia) for all the help with my car over the last 1.9years!

    Cheers! Many more reliable years with this great car and this great forum for info! Its been a great 1000... Well 1001 now!

    -Cj
  • Hello lists,

    I have 97 Honda Accord with 82,000 miles on. The wheels need alignment (by local mechanic shop). I am also planning to change both sides of drive axles because of broken CV joints (DIY).

    I am wondering if I would change drive axles after alignment or vice versa. Are these two systems close related? Does it matter in order?

    Thanks for your reply in advance.

    sdd
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Posts: 698
    Always do the CV joints first, and then take it to a reputable shop (not every mechanic can do an alignment, and you need special, large equipment for that... body shops do it usually) for an alignment.
  • I live in Alaska where temps can get as low as negative 60 degrees. I have been looking around for a frost plug for my honda so I can plug it in at night. I went to Napa, and a place called Schucks with both are reputable auto parts stores up here. However they both had me sold on what they say is the only kind of frost plug for my car. I compared both of them and they were the same plug, except napa's gave the detailed instructions on where to install it. Easy huh? Well, I went home and pulled the seal out where it say's to put the frost plug and there wasn't any threads in the hole where it should have been. The plug I received had a threaded end which would just screw into the engine block. Does anyone know if they make a different plug meant for my car and where I could find one. Or, with out having to take off a bunch of parts where is the location to install it. I looked all over where I could visibly see with a light and the only hole was in the rear (firewall) center of the block, but that wasn't it.

    Help please,

    Nitro74d
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