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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    The1994 Honda accord is not OBD-2 compliant.

    OBD-2 did not start till 1996 so there is no connector behind the ashtray on the 94, only 96 and later.

    I don't believe Air Team emission test facility know exactly what they are doing.
    I believe they are going to have to do the OLD TAIL PIPE CHECK.

    Call your local Honda place they will tell you how/where the test is done.

    The 1994 is OBD-1 which means there is no real standard across vehicles.

    To read trouble codes On the 94, the sc ( service connector) is not by the foot well or behind the ashtray, it is behing the glove box,, there is a 2 wire plug and a 3 wire plug ,,I think they are either green or blue ,,, you want to jump the 2 wire plug with a paper clip , put the key on and read the fashing codes on the instrument cluster.
  • tducketttduckett Posts: 1
    Had the same issue on my 98 honda accord... the light on the button will come on but the cruise control will not engage when the button on the steering wheel was pressed.... I replaced the brake light switch, it works fine now... :D
  • Where do you add the brake fluid in a 1994 Honda accord?
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    edited July 2010
    Driver side, under hood, on firewall,

    Verify the type brake fluid required, any parts supply store will give you the correct type required.
    The type is probably written on the Cap.

    Fill to line on reservoir..

    This link will show what it looks like.

    http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Master-Cylind- - er-Cardone-Select_5350006-P_230_R%7CGRPBRHYAMS_958646452___
  • gooch24gooch24 Posts: 4
    Ok people here was the problem. On a 97 Honda Accord SE, there is a door lock security control unit under the front passenger seat. If your door locks and security system both go out, I would check this module. From what I could gather, this module would only fit 97 Accord SE's. So it was a little hard finding one at a salvage yard. So to sum this whole deal up......if you drive into some water and it gets the inside floor board/ carpet wet, check the ECM and the door lock/ security control module. They are both located on or at the front passenger floor board. Peace out and Praise Jesus that I figured this mess out!!!
  • I have a 95 accord with a warped front passenger side. I tried to take the rotor out myself, but it was stuck. I've worked on accords before and this one seemed to be snugged in. Is there a certain way or any advice on how i would be able to take out the warped rotor? Any advice would help greatly. Thanks
  • Hello!

    The Rotors on the 95 accord are pressed on or "captured rotors". I have seen it done outside of a shop a few times, but it is a pretty painful process and the new ones generally need to be pressed on as well, usually by a hydraulic press. I have very few complaints about the accords, but the pressed on front rotors are one of them. I usually pay my local import shop about $150 to replace the rotor and bearing at the same time.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    The rotor comes off from the back side.
    It is a pretty big job,
    The unit will need to be removed from the control arms and drive shaft,
    The unit will need to come off the car
    You will destroy the wheel bearing because it will separate when you push it from the housing.
    Honda put the screws to us from 94 thru 97 on this job
    Go here and download this Manual and read up.

    http://manualspace.com/honda-accord-1994-1997-maintenance-service-manual.htm

    Extract with password: manualspace.com

    Reply for more info if needed.
  • zcuizcui Posts: 3
    1997 Honda Accord LX - 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic 150000 miles

    The odometer stopped work about three weeks ago, and the Check Engine light was ON. While I was thinking to change the VSS, last Friday I think I saw a kind of smoke in the front when I turned off the car at a gas station. I was not quite sure where did the smoke came from. The first thought was dust from the ground since I did not smell anything inside the car. After filled the tank, I started the car and found all meters had no signal, and the Check Engine light was OFF. There was no problem to change the gear. I drove the car home and parked it in the garage. The next day, I found the gear shift was stuck in the Parking and not able to switch to R or D. There was no power window either (I am not sure if it was gone with the gauges at the same time or with the gear shift later.)

    Now, to change the gear shift from P to R or D, I have to insert a key into the Shift Release hole after the car started. The car seems running fine on the road. However, there is no any signal from Temperature Gauge, Tachometer, Speedometer, Trip Meter, Fuel Gauge. Power Window, Clock, and Reverse Light when I shift to R stopped work as well. However, AC, turn signal lights, stop lights, head lights, high lights, Radio, and Cigarette Lighter still work fine. I checked the fuse under hood and dashboard on driver side, all of them are not burnt out.

    Another thing, a few years (3-4 yrs) ago, the Odometer (only) stopped running for several weeks, and then kept working till recently.

    What can cause the problem? What should I check?

    Thanks
    Scott
  • trcrotrcro Posts: 1
    my honda accordlx 94 is running hot.the cooling fan will not come on.I un plugged the cooling fan and the other fan is heeping the car cool what can I do to get both fans to work?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,883
    Your question has been addressed in your duplicate post in our Answers Department

    YOUR QUESTION IS HERE

    MODERATOR

  • dburk3dburk3 Posts: 1
    edited August 2010
    Hi, Did you find out the problem for you car. We are having the same problems, with my daughters 94 Accord. Can you get back to me Thanks. She is off to college this week.
    DBurk
  • zcuizcui Posts: 3
    I found the Meter Fuse under the dash board was burnt out. However, after replace it, the new fuse was burnt out too immediately when started the car. There must be a short somewhere.

    Is it possible caused by the bad VSS, since the VSS had problem before burnt the fuse?

    Thanks
  • zcuizcui Posts: 3
    I bought a VSS on online with $40 (Autozone cost $110). However, I have not replaced it yet. I guess this is the first step at least in my case. It seems not easy to replace since there is no much space and may need remove several other parts before reaching the VSS.
  • My 94 Accord coupe has a popping noise coming from the front end. It happens when I hit potholes or go over a speed bump. It sounds like a solid "thunk" when I hit bumps. I don't know how better to describe it. I can feel it in my steering wheel, but it doesn't seem to affect handling at all. My dad seems to think that the bushings on the upper control arms are bad, in which I'd have to replace the entire assembly. I think it's either that or the struts, or both. I'm not sure. Any help is greatly appreciated.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Most likely the V.S.S has nothing to do with it. V.S.S sends info to E.C.M, E.C.M sends info to speedometer
    Quick check on V.S.S. is to see if the cruise control maintains a speed. If the speed is maintained the V.S.S. is good.
    You probably have a short some where . The instrument cluster is easy to remove Honda calls the instrument cluster a (Combination Gauge). With the cluster out try the fuse if it does not blow, may be short in cluster, move some wires around under dash and under hood. Be careful with the screws on the back of the Combination Gauge (fragile connections) If nothing works on the Combination Gauge and a fuse is blowing you have a short some where.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    My 94 Accord coupe has a popping noise coming from the front end.

    IIRC, my 95 had a tie rod issue that may be what you are experiencing.
  • anjelanjel Posts: 3
    I have a 95 Accord EX. The wipers come on when I start the car. It's happened randomly about 3 times in the past 6 months. The wiper control is off. I turn it on and off and it doesn't turn off. I also tried restarting the car to see if it would turn off and it didn't. Two of the times, the wipers turned off on it's own when I was waiting at a stop light. The most recent trip was a short one and I believe it turned off after I turned off the car.
  • mfaresmfares Posts: 3
    1995 lx accord, auto transmission. During any regular trip, when i stop on a red light or during any jammed traffic, what i am trying to say: when i step on brakes to full stop I will feel the engine hesitating/jerking / big shaking almost engine going to stole, than I shift to neutral situation will be 10% less hesitating/jerking. rpm is normal. i don't feel it while i am driving. any idea what will be the problem?
  • Problem Summary:

    The car unexpectantly dies within ½ - 1 mile from my house after I start it up first thing in the morning and start driving down the road. The problem is random. It hasn’t done this since I replaced the ignition control module (ICM) on February 8th, but died twice today (February 21th). I have taken about 10 or more trips with the car during this period. Some times I have gone 1-2 days between driving the car. Once I get past the 1 mile mark, without stopping at a nearby grocery, corner store, etc. it runs fine and will run fine the rest of the day. I’ve never had it die after the initial first start of the day *and* within the 1st mile of operation or stopping at a close market/store.

    Additionally, the car idles under 500 RPMs (usually around 400 RPMs). According to my Haynes manual, the idle speed should be between 650 and 750 rpms with IAC valve connected. Also, there is no check engine light before or after the car dies unexpectantly.

    So, now I’m wondering what I should try next to resolve this unsafe issue. Others have reported their cars dying even after running for a long time, but mine so far has only died within the 1st mile after starting it up after sitting overnight *or* for a day or so.

    What would people on this forum suggest I troubleshoot next or try replacing?

    Car: 2.2 liter (4 cylinder) NON-VTEC engine. The faulty ignition starter switch has been replaced (in 2002) that was part of a Honda recall. Local Honda dealership has tested this part and confirmed it is working properly.

    Details:

    On January 27, 2010 I purchased a used 1997 Honda Accord LX that had about 128,400 miles on it. The car had no maintenance records with it, so I was purchasing it “blindly.” When I was initially looking at the car, I started it up and let it run in the dealer lot for a few minutes and a couple of times it stalled while I was checking out the various functions of the car (A/C, door locks, radio, windows, etc.). The dealer chalked it up to the after market car alarm system installed and my extensive testing of the various peripherals. Due to the fact that the car wouldn’t start while the alarm system was engaged, I thought he was right and we just armed/de-armed the system to get the car to start up again. I took the car for a test drive had an independent Honda dealership do a full inspection of the car (worthless in the end) and everything checked out so I purchased the car - which was in excellent shape visually (inside and out).

    Well about two days later the problem with the car not running smoothly started to crop up again. I left my house and drove about ¼ mile down the road to pick up some food before heading to a friend’s house and was in the store about 5 minutes and when I returned to my car, it started fine but stalled and it took me about 3-4 minutes and several tries to get it started and idling correctly. After this it ran fine, but I noticed while I was driving down the road, the tachometer jumped all around for a few seconds before “settling down” (this only happened once). The car ran fine the rest of the night.

    The next day the same thing happened when I went to purchase some fuel injection cleaner (thinking this might be the problem) at the local auto parts store that is ¼ mile from my house. When I got out of the store, I couldn’t get the car started initially. It took several tries before I was able to get it running again.

    The next instance of dying unexpectantly came on a rainy day right after I left my house. Within 1 mile of my house the car unexpectantly died while doing about 40 MPH. I couldn’t get the car restarted, so I had it towed to the dealer I bought it from. We were unable to reproduce the problem, so we expected the alarm system might be faulty causing the engine to cut off unexpectantly. So we disconnected it and I said I would monitor the problem and report back.

    About 2 days later, it died after I turned into the parking lot of the grocery store down the street (about ¾ of a mile down the road). I was unable to get it to stay running each time after I got it started (about twice). I tried holding the RPMs at 2000, but after about 2-3 seconds of running, it would just die cold. I pushed it to the parking area, and called my mechanic and was going to have him listen to problem, and it started up just fine and ran fine.

    After this I turned to the Internet and found several others who were having similar problems with their 1990 vintage Hondas. Many of the experienced Honda techs suggested the ICM module and external coil pack had gone bad (an apparently common problem with Honda Accords from this time period). So, on Feb 8th I replaced the ICM module (the old part was an original Hitachi ICM with the Japanese factory stamp on it) and put silicone heat transfer paste from Radio Shack on the module as well as the heat transfer plate.

    The car has run great with no problems until this morning (February 21th) when it died twice within 1 mile from my house. Both times I was able to get the car to start right up unlike previous times when I had to wait 5+ minutes to get it to start again or try repeatedly for a few minutes. I even let the car warm up for a few minutes in the driveway of my house (this has never made a difference in the ongoing problem).

    Update 10-9-2010:

    Well, I have more concrete evidence to report on my particular problem. It looks like it is weather (temperature specifically) related. I haven't had one single mysterious stall since April/May when the weather here in Florida warmed up (above 80 degrees). Yesterday morning, October 6th, the thermometer said 71 degrees and after I started driving it down the road it stalled again. Two stalls within the first mile on October 7th. I drove the car in the late afternoon on October 8th after the temperature had warmed up, and the car did not die at all.

    I looked at the circuit board for the fuel main relay yesterday (October 8th) and did not see any cracked solder joints which can cause problems. Anyone have any ideas on what parts might be affected by the cold morning temperatures?
  • I have a '97 Accord SE. I have an error message PEO when attempting to play a CD. Is there a way to correct? Thanks much --Ken
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    Here is a link where there is a lot of info that may help you. Start with the ignition troubleshooter and flowchart: http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html. Hope this helps.
    Corkscrew
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    PEO is supposed to stand for Player Error Optical. It may be just dirt on the laser. Some folks recommend cleaning the laser lens inside the unit with rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip. Others say you need to replace it.

    It sounds like this can also be caused by high humidity.

    I have no experience with this code... I just googled it.
  • dadajidadaji Posts: 4
    I know it is a very noob question, but I have to replace the heater\AC control knob and was wondering that when I buy another one, do I just need to push it in and will it be secure, meaning will it come off if I pull it out?
    Thanks.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    edited October 2010
    You got it.
    Honda Accord Heater knob is very easy to install by sliding off the metal stem.
    :P

    Should be able to find for around $6.00
  • I have a 94 Honda Accord EX and whenever the car has been sitting for a while, I'll turn the key to the ON position and usually the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT is on before I crank the car(most of the time). Usually when this light is on, the starter motor works, but the engine doesn't turn over. But usually about 2-5min, the light shuts off and the car cranks up just fine. Then afterwards, the car acts like a champ during the rest of the day. But waking up the next day knowing the car has been sitting for a while it does it to me again and again. It's just a hassle wating for the check engine light to cut off for my engine to turn over. Help would be appreciated on this issue, trying to get this problem resolved ASAP. Thanks.

    -Matt
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If the "check engine" light is on, there should be a code stored. Use this link to retrieve the code (you might have to scroll down a little). Good luck
    http://techauto.awardspace.com/ecu.html
  • I am in a pinch with a newly purchased used 1997 Honda Accord LX. The previous owner gave me a heads up concerning starting problems in sub 45 degree temps. I test drove it in slightly warmer temps and it didnt show any symptoms. The seller led me to believe it was a simple fix, "probably a sensor". So I foolishly trusted him and took it directly to a trusted mechanic for diagnostics and repair. Unfortunately it has proved to be quite the enigma even for them. Waiting for the right cold weather spell has been the first challenge to recreate the symptoms. With no codes or check engine light they said to drive it until I could find any symptoms. That very evening I discovered what the seller was referring to. At appx 40 degree temp I had a difficult time getting her started but managed to and drove it 45 miles home in light rain. The car ran fairly well(no stalls or rough idle) but I noticed that the wipers were very slow and the power windows were almost non functional. Once home and after sitting for 30 mins I went back out to run an errand and test the slightly cold start again. No problem and the slow wipers and windows seemed to go away. The next morning however was a no go. The car cranked strong but there was no sign of it getting started. While cranking the battery light was pulsing on and off. Now Ive been through enough alternators and batteries in my days to think it may have been alternator related but after passing that info along to my trusty mechanics they cant seem to figure it out saying it is showing spark. Brief summary is it starts and runs fine when its 50 degrees or warmer but under that it wont start. Plus the unmentioned slow wipers and power windows? Please anyone I am busted as this car replaced a Deer Accident victim that I could barely afford to replace with this nightmare.
  • I am in a pinch with a newly purchased used 1997 Honda Accord LX. The previous owner gave me a heads up concerning starting problems in sub 45 degree temps. I test drove it in slightly warmer temps and it didnt show any symptoms. The seller led me to believe it was a simple fix, "probably a sensor". So I foolishly trusted him and took it directly to a trusted mechanic for diagnostics and repair. Unfortunately it has proved to be quite the enigma even for them. Waiting for the right cold weather spell has been the first challenge to recreate the symptoms. With no codes or check engine light they said to drive it until I could find any symptoms. That very evening I discovered what the seller was referring to. At appx 40 degree temp I had a difficult time getting her started but managed to and drove it 45 miles home in light rain. The car ran fairly well(no stalls or rough idle) but I noticed that the wipers were very slow and the power windows were almost non functional. Once home and after sitting for 30 mins I went back out to run an errand and test the slightly cold start again. No problem and the slow wipers and windows seemed to go away. The next morning however was a no go. The car cranked strong but there was no sign of it getting started. While cranking the battery light was pulsing on and off. Now Ive been through enough alternators and batteries in my days to think it may have been alternator related but after passing that info along to my trusty mechanics they cant seem to figure it out saying it is showing spark. Brief summary is it starts and runs fine when its 50 degrees or warmer but under that it wont start. Plus the unmentioned slow wipers and power windows? Please anyone I am busted as this car replaced a Deer Accident victim that I could barely afford to replace with this nightmare.
  • Yes, I'm in a somewhat similar situation as you. The temperature affects the running of my engine. The difference is I can get mine to start every time in the morning when the temperature is around 70 or below, but after about 5 minutes of idling or driving down the road, it will stall. I then wait about 5 minutes and then start the car back up and it runs fine the rest of the day. Never have had a second stall throughout the day. I can drive, park, let it sit, and start it back up and it will run fine. Runs fine all the time in the summer when the weather is really warm here in Florida. Check out my YouTube video of the stalling problem. I still have not figured out the problem and don't have the money right now to just start replacing parts. I know the routine I have to go through everyday to get it running good, so I'm just living with the issue for now. Let me know if you come up with any good suggestions. Every mechanic I've taken it to has been stumped.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNBZ9snNpDc

    -Steve
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