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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair



  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    There was a recall for the ignition switch dated 5/13/2002 that involved one million sedans, coupes as well as other vehicles. Sorry if the original link comes up as a server error.
  • thanks for the input. i called the honda dealership and and honda corporation and my car isnt included in that recall. i thought it was though. they told me it would cost $48 dollars to diagnose it but it wouldnt be until Friday. and then it would probably be 3 days to get parts in if any are needed. i think i have two problems going on. #1 my abs is going out like you'll said and #2 my toggle switch is causing my lights and radio to go haywire. i was driving down the road yesterday and my speedometer went all the way to 0 and back to 45 like it had lost power but my car stayed running. my car is haunted!
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Posts: 698
    What you describe sounds like your ABS pump is going out. That is pretty common in Accords/Acuras. Mine went out long before 100k but I never replaced it because the dealer wanted $1600.

    -- Nice to pop in from time to time, me who is already 2 years out of owning my beloved '95 V6 Accord.... That was one HELL of a car....

    If there was ONE bad issue with that Accord, it was the ABS pump... I replaced the first one at about 60k, by the dealership, for about $1,200, only to have it go kaput 2 years later....

    You might get away with FILLING UP THE RESERVOIR WITH BRAKE FLUID, very little amount needed..... Fill it up slowly --- and let the engine run for a while WITH THE CAP OFF! so that air bubbles will come out. You might need to top it up again.

    Otherwise, shop around among used-parts dealers.... You can find a rebuilt ABS pump/module (which I believe the dealers are using too...) for less than $250. Have your local mechanic instal it for another $200 or less. Still a big saving, I'd say.
  • Hi all. I have a 97 Accord SE. Within the past couple of days the alarm has freaked out on me and will start going off at random times. Anyone else have issues with this? The horn going off at 2:00 am is not really fun. Any help is appreciated!
  • mamamia2mamamia2 Posts: 698
    Maybe you can adjust the alarm's sensitivity? Are you parked in a garage, or outside? Could be a heavy enough animal jumping on your car, like a SKUNK?
  • Check your battery. My alarm was going off by itself and it turned out that the battery was dying.
  • dano2008dano2008 Posts: 8
    97 Honda Accord 2.2 4 cyl

    Can someone please tell me where the cigarette lighter fuse is or if there even is one. It doesn't work but everything else does. I'm thinking it's a fuse but nothing is listed on the fuse box int he car.
  • dano2008dano2008 Posts: 8
    97 Accord 2.2 l 4cyl

    I was wondering how easy it is to remove the rear bumper and to put back on ?
  • sfranzosfranzo Posts: 6
    Under the hood you will find the fuse box. Number 19 is the cigarette lighter fuse.
  • dano2008dano2008 Posts: 8
    Thank you so much sfranzo.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Get Honda Shop Manual 94 will work. PDF file">
  • How do you adjust the sensitivity?
    I have a 2002 Accord SE, and the alarm's been going off ALL THE TIME.
    Granted, it keeps people from screwing with it, haha. But it's not very fun running down three flights of stairs ten or so times a night to shut it off.
    And I have street parking, so no way am I just leaving it unlocked.
  • I'm in the market for a 08 Nissan Altima 2.5s. I currently have a 95 Honda Accord 2.7 V6 with 150k miles recently broke down. The mechanic "says" the camshaft and crankshaft sensors went bad and the job would cost about $750 to fix. Besides this issue, the car had a strong engine (great acceleration) and was in fair to good condition aside from having only one working power window (electrical problem), broken odometer, broken fuel gauge and small oil leaks which one could consider cosmetic. KBB value for Private Party is $2,985 in fair condition and $1,515 Trade-In value. My question, should I spend the money to fix the car and use it as a trade in for the Altima or scrap the car and cut my losses. I'm worried that a private seller wouldn't buy the car because of those forementioned issues.
  • tvsethitvsethi Posts: 1
    ok trying to save some money here is a few tips for the rear windows i would personally pull the door panels of on one side front and rear and remove the regulator with motor, its definatley not a hard thing to do AT ALL dont let anyone tell you otherwise, but remove the rear and test to see if the regulators actually work by pluging the wire from the front into this regulator and pushing up and down DO NOT REMOVE ANYTHING fROm the front just the cover and unplug the wire from the regulator, if they work then it possibly is an issue with the wiring test that and ill look for spots to test wiring in the mean time, second the anntena you can find at any junk yard for like 5 bucks, 4th if everything else on the cluster works fine it could be an issue with the speed sensor or cable you can most likely get a sensor for 20 bucks at the part store but dont hold me to that, if you have any other questions let me know i am in a rush sorry for the sloppiness
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    It ain't the VSS It ain't It ain't It ain't.

    If you have Cruise Contreol and it works, that tells you VSS is good.
    You would most likly get a check enige ligth with a bad VSS.

    It is your Speedometer Head.

    I have told you that I have been there with the Speedometer Problem

    There is NO speedometer cable
  • pkim3pkim3 Posts: 1
    duster219, did you fix your alarm problem? Did you change you battery and did it make your problem go away?
    I am having same problem for more than a year. I don't lock my doors any more. (Thank God, I live in safe neighborhood) However, I left my car locked at the airport once for 3 days and of course it drained my battery.

    Anyway, will you let me know if bluetoothninja's solution worked. (new battery)

  • I have a 95 Accord LX with the 2.2l and 4 wheel disc brakes. Over the last month or so, I have noticed a shudder when braking. The steering wheel shudders, and it seems like I have to push on the brakes a bit more to get stopped. For a bit of history here, I just replaced rotors and pads on all four wheels last october, had a new wheel bearing put in the right front, and a new right front cv assembly in February. The cv boot on the drivers side front is cracked, I know about it and am having the entire assembly replaced next friday. What I would like to know is, is it possible that the axle shaft or cv joint could be causing the shudder? The drivers side front wheel "feels" loose to me, almost imperceptibly so, but nevertheless so. Is this a possible cause? Please let me know what you think, thanks.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Hey folks - haven't been around here in awhile (haven't needed to be). Just thought I'd share an update.

    I've now got 180k miles on my car and my driver's side front suspension is making a tapping/knocking/rattling noise when I hit bumps; not necessarily when turning. It's pretty obvious to me on the interstate, or any rough road for that matter. It's not that loud, but something has obviously gone south - I suspect the CV Boot/Joint. I'm getting an estimate from my local mechanic tomorrow. If it is in fact the CV Joint:

    1.) Should I go ahead and replace them both?
    2.) How much should I expect to pay for 1? 2?

    I'm not upset about having to get this done; 180k seems like really good life out of them. My grandparents just replaced them on their '97 Civic at 110k.


  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    It may also be a tie rod problem, grad.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Thanks... I'm interested in hearing everything it COULD be and everything it probably ISN'T, so I'll be a little more prepared tomorrow.

    Would something like this get me stranded? I actually drove the car today since it hadn't been driven in 4 days; I try to drive it regularly to keep the seals tight.
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