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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

1565759616292

Comments

  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    The parts for doing the rotor/pad repair are approximately $190.00.
    Honda's 94/97 rotor design makes this a horrible task.
    The complete steering knuckle has to be removed on both sides.
    The wheel bearings are destroyed when removed from the knuckle.
    This has to be done to get the rotors off.
    This job is not for the casual home mechanic.
    You need the proper tools, which the casual home mechanic will not have.
    Brake Pads/Shoes - Front about $30.00.
    Brake Rotor x2 about $60.00.
    Wheel Bearing - Front x2 about $100.00.

    I just completed this job on my own car,
    The $723 including labor for a place of business was a fair price.
    Check it out at
    ">link titlehttp://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528003a46a
  • hondatech2hondatech2 Posts: 6
    Omarr, are you a parts man for a living? Look at your link again for replacing front rotors. It says except for 96 and 97. We are in a 94-97 discussion group. I'm pretty sure that up to 97 the front rotor is still held on by two screws. They can be difficult to get out and you may need a impact screw driver. I have even had to drill them out before, that's why you need to use anti-seize. After 97 is the rotor over hub design, which then you may want to replace the bearings. Wheel bearings are never destroyed unless they were bad in the first place, or you destroyed them taking them out. I am a heavy equipment foreman, and I work with bearings the size of your tires, bearings can be removed and races knocked out.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    The brake rotor on the 94/95/96/97 Honda Accords that I have worked on has the rotor pulled from the rear of the hub. They are held on with 4 bolts. Total dismantle of the knuckle assembly is required.
    Some models may be different, example models with rear discs.

    98 changes and the the front rotor is held on by two screws and is pulled from the front. This is simple to do.
    The AutoZone link does not always have the exact/correct illustrations.

    Step 13 of the AutoZone link says!
    On late models of the Accord and Prelude, use a hydraulic press and suitable press tools to remove the front hub/bearing assembly. For specific details, refer to the hub/bearing removal and installation procedures in this section.

    I will not put any information on this site unless I have done the job myself.
    No WAG’s from this ole boy

    Read the book for complete documentation.
    http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Follow up!
    The brake rotor on the 94/95/96/97 Honda Accords that I have worked on has the rotor pulled from the rear of the hub. They are held on with 4 bolts. Total dismantle of the knuckle assembly is required.
    Some models may be different, example models with rear discs.

    98 changes and the the front rotor is held on by two screws and is pulled from the front. This is simple to do.
    The AutoZone link does not always have the exact/correct illustrations.

    Step 13 of the AutoZone link says!
    On late models of the Accord and Prelude, use a hydraulic press and suitable press tools to remove the front hub/bearing assembly. For specific details, refer to the hub/bearing removal and installation procedures in this section.

    I will not put any information on this site unless I have done the job myself.
    No WAG’s from this ole boy

    Read the book for complete documentation.
    http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Accord/
  • jokerjoejokerjoe Posts: 1
    My accord ran hot the other day, it appeared low on coolant. I filled it up drove it for 3 days, now it is running on the hot side again. I can not see any visible leaks or cracks, dripping liquid etc. Also, at idle it just began revving up in park/neutral from around 1000rpm to close to 2000rpm. Any thoughts. Thermostat stuck? Any help is appreciated.
  • jjzhangjjzhang Posts: 2
    Thank you. I will try.
  • ds337ds337 Posts: 2
    Hello everyone, been reading the message back to last October and haven't found anything that matches the problem that I'm having. I have a 1995 Accord LX, I4, non-VTEC, automatic trans, with 200k miles.

    On a cold engine, I can hit 4k+ RPM without problems. About 15 mins after I start the engine, the check engine light turns on and the car won't go over 3k RPM. I can drive fast, slow, or drive to the gas station and turn off the engine and it's almost always 15 mins after I first start the cold engine. When I hold the gas down steady, it will oscillate between 2.75 and 3.25k RPM and if I give it more gas, it will back fire periodically while oscillating.

    Been meaning to go over to a friends to get the code but haven't been able to sync up with him. Anyone have any ideas what is going on? Am I completely hosed?

    Thanks in advance for any help... :)

    -Ds
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    AutoZone will read your Check Engine Light for free.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    When you say it won't go over 3K rpm, are you saying it won't do that while in neutral without a load on the engine, or are you saying while driving down the highway, you can't get the engine under load to ever go over 3K?
  • ds337ds337 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the Autozone tip..

    Both. After the check engine light goes on, I can't go over 3k RPM in neutral or on the road. It may be a little higher in neutral but not much more.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Get your error codes read from the computer (AutoZone, Pepboys, etc). Tell us what the error codes are, or look them up at www.actron.com
  • pj_columbiapj_columbia Posts: 12
    Hi,
    It's been awhile since I posted, but having a problem with the power antenna on the car. It''s making "the noise" and won't let the antenna retract or extend completely. I have taken the whole thing out and have done some research to see if I need to replace just the mast or if I need to replace the entire power assembly. I've gone to this site (http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelpkeefe/HowTo_Antenna_Mast.htm), but it's for a '94 Accord. I just can't seem to pull my mast out of the housing. It sounds like there is something that prohibits it from coming out all the way. So, do I have to replace the whole thing or is there some trick at getting the mast out? Thanks for your help!

    PJ
  • kerhondakerhonda Posts: 1
    96 EX V6 has intermittent cooling. Sometimes very cool & sometimes blowing hot - even on the same short trip. Seems like it is probably blowing hot more frequently than in the past. Anybody with a similar experience &/or any tips on what to check for? I'll take on something if it isn't major. Thanks.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I had the same problem. Some times the A/C would blow cold, and sometimes not. There were also a couple of other quirks that would show up when this happened. The dash P (park) indicator would not light up at startup, and the indicator lights for A/C would not light up. Hard to believe but a weak battery was the cause. It was strong enough to start the engine, but while doing so, it would loose communication with other systems. I went to Autozone, and they tested the battery for me, and said it was bad. Changed the battery, and it hasn't happened since (more than a year ago). Good luck, and hope your's is this simple too.
  • sadomadsadomad Posts: 2
    My head gasket blew so i took the head to a shop and got it resurfaced. I replaced the head gasket, the intake manifold gasket, and the exhaust manifold gasket. I put it all back together (except for the coil that connects to the distributor, I have no idea how to bolt that in) but the car wont start. It turns beautifully, but wont catch. I have no idea what it could be. Does anyone have an Idea?
  • ker1ker1 Posts: 7
    Update on intermittent AC cooling. When working the air is cold so I'm not sure how it could be a low refrigerant cause. When blowing hot air the condensor fan is still running but the compressor is not turning. So, something is causing the compressor to not run when it should. From my research on this it seems that it could be the compressor clutch relay, the thermostat or the pressure switch. Any experience or ideas on this? Thanks.
  • ker1ker1 Posts: 7
    Update: I checked the refrigerant level & pressure & it is fine. One more Q&A & I should have this figured out. If my pressure switch is bad, would the condensor fan run & the compressor not run? Does the system need to be evacuated to replace the pressure switch? If the condensor fan should not be running if the compressor is not running then my next step is to replace the compressor clutch relay which has been my chief suspect all along. Appreciate any knowledgeable feedback out there. Thanks.
  • ker1ker1 Posts: 7
    Update: I checked the red clutch/coil lead in "failed" mode & I still had battery voltage which proves my relay is fine. I then forced the clutch against the rotating pressure plate (exciting - I recommend a thin wooden stick/pole - less sparks than metal) & lo & behold, it engaged. The gap is out of spec - not by a huge amount but it is bigger than the outside tolerance. I guess that over time the natural progression is for everything to wear & loosen to a wider gap.
    So, it seems clear I need to pull the clutch & remove some shims. I've never messed with a compressor clutch & there is precious little clearance from the end of the clutch to the inner fender - maybe 3/4". I'm not sure what I'm getting into here. I don't think there is enough clearance without pulling the compressor & then I'm not sure you could do it without evacuating the system? Can you do this with the compressor in place or must it be removed? I'm wondering if I might be better off to take it to a reliable mechanic & have them do this. I wouldn't expect there to be too much to it for them....maybe 1 hour labor or something like that? Any opinions or experience on this? Thanks again.
  • sadomadsadomad Posts: 2
    Is there anything I could do? I just replaced the cylinder head gasket. And when I was bolting down the ignition coil to the head, a little part chipped off the edge so it leaves a hole when I put the valve cover on. The piece that chipped off is roughly 0.5" X 2.5" in size. Is there anything that i could do to fix it without having to replace the whole head.
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