Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair

1656668707192

Comments

  • krishanukrishanu Posts: 2
    Hi Unekgal,

    I am facing the same issue with my honda accord cigarette lighter. It's loose and coming out of the assembly. Please let me know how you had fixed it..
    Thanks.
  • krishanukrishanu Posts: 2
    I am having the same issue with my honda Accord cigarette lighter assembly. It's loose and falling out of the assembly. Any ideas how to fix it?
    Thanks.
  • drzoltardrzoltar Posts: 6
    There is a way to do it. You have to remove the center console to access it. If you search on-line for instructions on how to replace the radio in a 1996 Honda, it's essentially the same steps.

    It's very easy and should only take 15-20 minutes to do. I have almost no mechanical aptitude and I found it very easy.
  • jhrostjhrost Posts: 32
    For the last few days, the brakes feel kind of soft & "mushy"; that is, the resistance seems less than before. I haven't had to make any fast stops, but the brakes seem to work ok for the most part, even on steep downhills. Usually if you pump the pedal a couple of times the resistance seems to firm up, but even then, if you hold the brake down, you can sort of feel the pedal sinking under your foot, after an initial period of greater resistance.

    I bought the car new nearly 15 years ago (about 160,000 miles), and this is the first time, I believe, that I've had this exact problem. In earlier life, when my at-that-time economic circumstances compelled me to drive a succession of used American- made beaters, this was a not uncommon problem for me, but with the passage of time and the availability of more reliable Japanese-made cars, I've kind of forgotten what the exact cause of it is, though I'm sure I must have known the answer at one time.

    The first thing that popped into my mind was that the brake fluid must be low, but, as near as I could determine, the level seems to be ok. I know that in the full spectrum of automotive problems which can exist, this is a fairly common one, so I'm hoping that someone out there can jog my aging memory and tell me what's causing this symptom and what I could/should do about it.

    Thanks in advance for any advice or input. I greatly appreciate anyone's insight into the nature of this problem.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Sounds like your master cylinder is leaking. Mine was replaced in my '96 LX I4 at around 175k miles. Brake fluid been changed regularly? I bet not. Water gets in the brake fluid and breaks down the seals. Was a $300 repair at the dealer.

    No problems since, and I'm at 191k on mine. Amazingly, I've never replaced the rear brakes, and the fronts are still good after over 55k miles.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    The honda master cylinders internal seals will fail and there will no external leak.
    The fluid by passes the internal piston seal.
    My honda had the same problem, changed the master cylinder and now have excellent brakes. :)
  • jhrostjhrost Posts: 32
    Thanks for that amazingly swift feedback. You guys both sound pretty certain about the nature of this problem. Are there any other obscure and perhaps less costly explanations for what I'm experiencing, or is the master brake cylinder the culprit with something approaching metaphysical certitude?

    If I can't get around to a repair in the next couple of days, is it dangerous to drive this car - I mean, is there a possibility for a catastrophic brake failure?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    While I wouldn't postpone the repair too long, I drove mine for weeks before realizing a problem existed. it'll just slowly get worse, in all likelihood.

    And, that problem is fairly common, in many cars. It's easily diagnosed, typically. Catastrophic failure? Unlikely. The brake system is divided in half, I believe, so if one part goes (either Front Left and Rear Right, or Front Right, Rear Left) you should be left with the other portion.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If the brake pedal sinks, with steady pressure, either the master cylinder seals are leaking, or there is a fluid leak somewhere. If you don't see fluid leaking anywhere, you likely have a master cylinder problem. A spongy feeling brake pedal is a sign of air in the brake lines (need to bleed the air out). If the brake pedal seems to push back on your foot, that is a sign of vacuum/booster problems. Brakes are pretty simple, until you get into ABS, SC, etc.
  • jhrostjhrost Posts: 32
    Thanks to all for the insightful comments :)
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    Don't wait, drive the car directly to the nearest mechanic and have the master cylinder checked out.This problem happened to my wife's car and we put it off. Two days later she came to a stop sign and the pedal went to the floor, no brakes. She made a quick right turn and just missed being hit by a pickup truck
    Corkscrew.
  • jhrostjhrost Posts: 32
    Thanks for that information.
  • I need to replace the condenser fan, one of the two fans attached to the radiator.
    It seems to mount to the radiator with just 2 bolts on top (easily accessible).
    Has anyone done a replacement without removing the radiator?
    Im trying to get an idea how difficult the job is going to be. Thanks

    Background on the problem:

    I have a 97 Accord with about 280K. Often the AC compressor will shutdown (most likely from overheating), mostly when I am driving low speeds or idling. On the freeway I NEVER have this problem. Engine coolant temperature and coolant levels are fine. I discovered that EVERYTIME I have this problem, the accessory (2nd) radiator fan isnt spinning. I believe its this fan that helps cool the AC evaporator. If I move the blades with a pencil, they do start spinning. Which means the fan is getting electrical power. The bearings are probably starting to go. No doubt I need to replace this electric fan.
  • hi im new to this site but im been browsing and i liked it......well i have a 97 honda accord and for some reason whn i release the gas pedal my car slows down on its own.....im guessing my brake pad stick to my rotors can n e 1 tell me whts causing this so i can fix it....also is it true the hub or the bearings wht ever it is messes up whn u replace the rotors......
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,647
    Have you checked for low refrigerant level?
  • I was on a cross country trip from California to Michigan in my 97 Accord 2-dr EX. I pulled over to check a map in Reno, Nevada and when I put my car back in D, the engine just raced like it was in neutral when I gave it gas. The reverse gear worked for a bit in the parking lot, eventually no shifter position resulted in movement of the vehicle.
    Ironically I was on my way to a local Reno Autozone to read the OBDII code becuase my check engine light has been on for a week. California Autozones won't lend the equipment anymore (some lawsuit) and I wanted to avoid the $80 most places charge to read the codes. I would bet that those codes had something to with a malfunctioning transmission and I was ignoring the warning. Lesson learned: buy one of those engine code readers and keep it in your car. I called a local Reno Honda mechanic and two transmission places and all of them including the AAA tow truck driver said the transmission is toast and needs replacement (especially with 280K on my car). I couldnt risk an extra tow to a mechanic to have this verified for sure (I have only 4 free tows from AAA a year). One place quoted $2600 for a rebuilt transmission, another shop quoted me $1800 installed for a transmission from a low-mileage Accord. A new tranny in California is no doubt more expensive. So now I am having it towed back to my house in California. I will probably keep it in my driveway until I can sell it for parts. Its really a sad day. I love my Gen-5 Accord and I feel like dumping $2K+ on a transmission would be a waste of money. Even with a replacement transistion, there is atleast 2K of other work that it eventually needs, and its up for California Smog in 4 months (2 years ago it barely passed). To me its not just another Gen-5 accord. I have some mods, my interior looks brand new and the wear and tear give it its unique character. Perhaps some of you were once in the same position and can offer your thoughts.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    My advice - sell the car for what you can get for it. The transmission work will cost more than the car is worth.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,647
    280K? The car owes you nothing. It's been a great soldier, so give it a decent burial. Last thing you want to do is put a brand new transmission in a car with the other 90% worn out.

    I doubt the warning lights would have saved you. It was just the car's time--you beat the odds by 100K.
  • gariegarie Posts: 3
    '96 Honda Accord
    150k miles
    standard transmission

    Recently, my car has been stalling when I start it. The car starts, but then the car slowly dies. It hasn't stalled after I've driven and am sitting at a red light. I talked to a mechanic and he says he wants to do a diagnostic check and get data from the onboard computer but I feel like that's a waste of money since I'm pretty sure a checklist could diagnose my problem. I thought it might be a fuel pressure issue but he said that's extremely rare. The car only seems to stall when it's hot outside - tonight after it was quite cool the car started very well and the RPMs didn't dip at all.

    On an unrelated note, the car makes a ticking noise when turning left. I think it's because of the CV joint. Will anything bad happen if I ignore it? I'm (obviously) trying to spend as little money as possible but I don't want my axle to break in half while turning or anything.
  • aarceeaarcee Posts: 2
    My dash light have gone, how can I check them without pulling the dash apart?
Sign In or Register to comment.