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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair



  • To Question 1 -
    I believe if you replaced this with a 1 piece boot you would need to pay to have an alignment done after you finished anyway. Also I have needed to replace my tie rod end on my 94 accord 2 out of three times when I have taken the steering apart.

    To Question 2 -
    If you live in a state that sells R134a you may be able to replace yourself and charge. Just make sure to follow all instructions in a Chilton's or Haynes book, replace any O-ring seals that get exposed, and be very careful when putting it back together (those aluminum parts are expensive!). One more thing to think on - I did this myself, it is a bit of a job and a few other parts need to be removed. If I remember correctly a specific bracket gave me a little bit of frustration. However it is still very satisfying to have the job done yourself.

    If it were me, the AC I would tackle myself. The Steering boot, I would find a local mechanic that has an alignment rack, see if you can negotiate for them to put a new boot on for $10-20 more than the cost of the alignment.
  • Thanks Trhenning for advice.
    I guess, there may exist split boot for steering? If yes, since this is not rotating, this could be an option for me?

    For AC, what about "evacuation"? How will the system perform if it has not been cleaned out?
  • after you replace the ac compressor you need to pull vacuum on it. some auto zones will lend you a vacuum pump. you need to pull about 30 pounds of vacuum and make sure it holds it. ie no leaks
  • When you evacuate the system, you not only remove air that entered the system, but more importantly you remove moisture. If you don't the moisture mixes with the oil and creates a corrosive sludge that attacks the aluminum components.

    You need to run the vacuum pump for at least 30 minutes to boil off the moisture. Just drawing a quick vacuum shutting off the pump and holding it for a while to check for leaks isn't good enough.

    Although replacing the A/C pump may be your fix, if the old pump had issues and it sent metal fragments down the line, you may need to replace more then just the pump. A/C systems also have filter/dryers and that may need to be changed when you replace the pump.

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    First of all, it's not a steering boot. It's covering the drive shaft/CV joint. If the grease has all come out of the boot, the CV joint will not last much longer. If very little of the grease has come out of the boot, you may be able to get by just changing the boot with a two piece replacement. If not, I would change the axle/CV joint and the boot at the same time. It's not an easy job, but someone with reasonable intelligence, and a repair manual can do it.
  • Elroy5,

    It is a steering boot. CV boot is fine. Drive axle is fine too. It is a steering rack boot that covers the seal from steering rack towards the ball joint.

    Thank you to all who provided valuable insights.

    It seems that steering boot can be replaced by myself, provided I am very careful separating the ball joint and keeping the tread position of the tie rod end the same as before to try to avoid alignment.

    AC? I will try it myself. As far as evacuating, will a cheap pump like this work?

    Many thanks again,
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    It's a dice roll every time you buy used. I prefer to buy new then drive it forever.
  • that pump should work if there are no leaks. the only problem is that there is no gauge to obsere anyways once you have vacuum put in one whole can of refrigerant (with the motor running and air on high) because the compressor wont start working till then, then put in the rest good luck
  • My 1997 Honda Accord 4cyl. condenser fan began to run continuously (even after engine was shut off) after cycling the A/C temp. selector from hot to cold. I disconnect the condenser fan to avoid draining the battery when car is not in use. Now the condenser fan is intermittently working and no cold air is available with temp. select. in cold position. I serviced the A/C with R-134A and didn't seem to work. Hot works fine. Any ideas?
  • Is the A/C compressor spinning (clutch activated)? Is either A/C lines going into the firewall cold?
    When you turn the selector knob on the dash from hot to cold, is the in-line water valve on the heater hose opening/closing?

  • I haven't tried the Harborfreight pump, looks interesting. I doubt the pump comes with any A/C lines. That style of pump requires a constant supply of compressed air. The manual says it needs 4.2 CFM @ 90 PSI. Do you have a compressor that can keep up?

    You may want to purchase one of their A/C manifold gage sets as well. That will give you the needed lines as well as a gage to monitor for leaks.

  • Mr. Bill, I'm on it...I'm checking as we speak. More to follow. (Also, it briefly blew cold air yesterday but then went back to warm air with temp. select knob in cold position.)
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Check the hot water hose cutoff valve.
    The hose supplies hot water to the heater coils and if the valve does not shut the hot water off during the cooling mode you will get warm air and think the air conditioner is not working correctly.
    The valve is located on passenger side near the fire wall. It can be seen from the top side behind the motor. On position, the lever on the valve is inline with the hose. Off position, The lever on the valve is 90 degree to the hose. You can reach the valve from the top side and make sure the valve is completely 90 degree to the hose.

    Been there done That ;)
  • One more thing you might be able to check. If your vintage of Accord uses an A/C receiver-dryer with a sight glass in the top, you can see if there is any refrigerant passing through the receiver dryer. A low system will show fluid with alot of bubbles. The dryers are usually mounted near the front of the car, around the condenser.

  • Back to the subject of steering boot torn.

    If I succeed in separating the tie-rod ball joint and knuckle, could I then slide the new boot onto tie rod without having to unscrew the tie rod alignment nut, thus avoiding a need for subsequent alignment?

    Or will the new boot not fit around the ball joint?

    Is there anything I need to put inside the new boot before installing? I think not.

    Thanks again,
  • athaoathao Posts: 1 jpg 03.jpg re004.jpg

    Hi i was just wondering if any of you guys ever replaced a Heater Core for a 1994 Accord. My accord doesn't have heat. It blows and all but no heat. I checked my temp switch and turns out it was broken. Got a new one and turns out when i turn it to the hot mode(right).. It turns back to the left cause its not strong enough to stay there. somethings wrong with the part (on the bottom where the temp cable hooks onto) i kinda noticed it when i inspected it. So i kinda cheated. What i did was i popped my hood and adjusted the temperature switch to open and threw a tie strap on there so it wont shut the valve. After i did that i turned my engine on and left it running to see if any heat would come. After 17 minutes didn't noticed anything different. Same old air. The only different thing that i noticed was that if i set it into the defrost/blower mode i can feel a little warm air coming out of the LEFT driver side. But then the center blowers and the passenger side blowers blow regular cool air. So i figured its a possibility that it might be my Heater core so here i go....30 Minutes before it turned dark i got the dash out and the center console piece disassembled. Looking at the pictures this is where im at right now. Was just curious....Do i have to take out the round metal bar (which connects to the steering wheel-see image) that runs from passenger side to driver side? Because when i try to take the top piece off...It moves but wont come out because it keeps hitting the bar. I'm assuming i would have to take that part off and take the steering wheel out or down???
    And 1 more thing....Is the heater core located in the bottom of the center console (see picture) because that's what im thinking cause thats where the inlet/outlet hose come in & out. This is my 1st time doing this so any help and Tips (regarding heater core removal) would be appreciated. Thanks and sorry for so long
  • jewls1jewls1 Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 honda accord and it started shutting off while driving and when it shuts off the dash lights will stay on but there is a clicking noise coming from under the dash. The car will restart but you must turn the ignition off and crank again . then it will shut off again . I replaced the main relay and was ok for a couple weeks but now it is doing it again. also now the speedometer stopped working and light will start flashing around the d on dashboard . any ideas?
  • My cigarette lighter has become loose and it's hard to get anything to charge with it now. Can this be fixed? Or do I need to replace the it? I've removed the console before and can get back there. I'm just not sure what to do with the lighter once I'm there. I've search online and see that others have had this problem, but I haven't seen anything about how to actually repair it. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
  • chrysachrysa Posts: 1
    When I first bought the car about 6 months ago, the heat was working, but not too well. Then after the summer when I put the heat back on after not using it, it completely stopped working and only blows cold air. The AC also doesn't work, but I don't care so much about that, because I don't really need AC, and when I bought the car the guy told me that AC wasn't working and there was a part that he had bought for it that I have in the trunk. My question is, is there anyway I can fix this myself, because I really don't have much money to get it fixed. Now that winter is coming and it will be freezing I am going to need heat! Can anyone offer me any advice? It would be much appreciated. Thank you.
  • Check your coolant (antifreeze) level. A lack of this will cause your heat not to work. make sure to check both the overflowtank and radiator (when the car is cool!).
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