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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair



  • peterorionpeterorion Posts: 8
    edited December 2010
    Hey, you might find this helpful. There is a Master mechanic named "Eric the car guy" on you tube who owns an integra and has A++ videos regarding no starts for Hondas/Acuras. One is basic diagnostics for no starts and the other is regarding fuel pump issues which he says are rare. The good news is that he provides some cheaper alternatives to scrapping the car altogether. To get to the chase, he has a video about the "main relay" which is easily located and removed to expose a circuit board with soldered connections? which sometime crack? in adverse temps? He shows how to cheaply fix or one could replace it. I just googled the part which he suggests going with original Honda parts OEM? preferably and its showing up as appx a $70 dollar part with a doable do it yourself instruction. After waiting for two weeks for a trusted mechanic to tell me talk to him Monday I am ready to try this in his junkyard lot and drive it away!!!!!! Only thing I can afford is a positive frame of mind. Thanks for letting me know I'm not alone. Sending a message out into space can be somewhat hopeless. Bright Blessings.
  • Here is a link to an ignition system troubleshooter. More info can be found under "main relay fix/overview". Hope this helps:
  • There is also a TSB for battery testing procedures:
  • Corkscrew, I wanted to send my sincerest gratitude for trying to help me out. On a weekend no less!!!
  • jhrostjhrost Posts: 32
    I noticed a sound today which may be a normal one, but it's never attracted my attention in the past. Anyway, I'm curious as to what the explanation for it is. I have a 95 Accord LX 4 door manual transmission. When you turn the key clockwise to the position just before the start or ignition - the number II position (but don't actually start the car) the lights on the display all come on, and I hear kind of a hum, an electronical sort of sound, as if something were being energized. After a moment or two, the sound stops,and the battery light goes out, as well as the display lights for the open doors and trunk. The other display lights remain on. The fan was in the off position when I did this, so that wasn't what was making the noise.

    As I say, this may be normal and I've just never noticed it before, but if it is abnormal, I wonder if it might be diagnostic of some impending problem? In either case (normal or abnormal) I'd be curious as to what is causing the sound and would appreciate any explanation. Thanks.
  • That hum you hear is your fuel pump. lol totaly normal dont trip. have a good holiday
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Yep; normal. My '96 LX 4-cylinder with an auto does it too - it is indeed the fuel pump. Other cars (not just this series of Accords) do this as well.
  • jhrostjhrost Posts: 32
    Thanks for those replies, explanations, & holiday wishes. :)
  • Much to my dismay the saga continues after 5 weeks and 2 shops. The most recent shop specializes in electrical diagnostics. Their suggestion which sounded more like a request was to replace the distributor. The problem i am having with that is it has a brand new distributor along with spark plugs and wires all of which are OEM. Additionally, my first mechanic supposedly replaced the ICM within the distributor noting they are notoriously problematic. To repost my enigma, the car starts and runs fine in 50 degree weather but cranks and wont start when it is colder than that. Thanks to corkscrew I am armed with a honda troubleshooting link that goes through more info than one could hope to find. My plea is: Is there anyone that can give me their thoughts regarding a TW sensor aka coolant sensor and could one be faulty enough to create a no spark condition when its cold? Also could the Main relay somehow prevent spark in any way? For history's sake both shops are treading down the same path, poopooing the possibility it may be something out of the ordinary. I was told they use the internet as well, maybe the same website? HELP
  • My sons car - lights flicker on and off- clicking noise but engine will not turn over - could this be a starter or ???
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    I am giving you a couple of WAG's.

    See if you can eliminate the problem to electrical, fuel or mechanical.
    Buy some starting fluid from parts store, Walmart, etc.
    Find a place that you can introduce some of the fluid into the intake air flow,
    Spray some in and see if the engine fires a few times. If it does it is a fuel problem.
    Connect a timing light and see if it light up (flashes) as you try starting. If it does the distributer is probably okay. You can also pull a plug wire and with a plug held on a ground (metal, screw,etc on engine or frame) and see if there is a spark. A spark would also indicate the distributer is okay. Any wire is okay because you are not checking timing.
    Take a heat gun or hair dryer and warm any/all wire connectors, sensors one at a time to see if the problem is affected and the engine starts. this includes the key switch.
    I would think if you had a problem with a sensor there would be a check engine light on. Sensors can cause the problem. Example temperature sensors tell the ECM on how much fuel to supply.
    Reply for follow up.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Try jumper cables to start or have battery checked at parts store.
    Check for bad battery, cables or loose connections.

    Most parts stores will check/charge battery at no cost
  • we replaced the battery about 2 months ago - purchased it from Les Schwab? Any other thoughts?
  • My message is attached to the cold no start msg and it doesn't start due to cold weather. I replaced the timing belt almost 2 years ago and the car has 90k miles - I think after reading your reply it may be the fuel pump as my son is always running the car almost on empty - what your thoughts on this?
  • This dash light is now red. in the past, it went to green after an oil change. not this time. What should I be lookign for to correct??
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Are you sure you are looking at a light.
    All the 94's I have seen have a mechanical type indicator that can be reset with pressing the end of your key in at the indicator.
    Whoever that was changing your oil must have been resetting it but not the last time.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    As omarr said, look for a slot in the dash near the "light". Insert your key, push, and it will reset to green. It's all mechanical.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,824
    I haven't mentioned it lately, but you members are a godsend. I'd love to know how much money has been saved by members, overall, by you folks posting all of the little tips & tricks, and "before you head for the service center..." ideas.

    Thanks to everyone who takes the time to help!

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  • So I finally have my 97 Accord back with a laundry list of new parts. If anything, it can be learning lesson for me and others. I also wanted to thank omarr for his great advice of troubleshooting with a heat gun/hairdryer and re thank corkscrew for his help as well.Unfortunately it was already in its second garage with time invested so it was left to them. To get to the chase here is what was done in order. First: a new distributor was installed. At first I was leery of this as the seller had pointed out that he had just installed a new one claiming it to be OEM. It turned out that there was a missing set screw which secures the rotor to the shaft within the cap. It was the first one they had seen like that =no set screw and pre drilled hole. So the rotor was just floating? I did ask 2 see and save all the replaced parts to verify this. I was told that it didn't feel as heavy either so I would guess this was a cheap knockoff. Second. ignition switch. In my one and only drive of this car I had a hard time getting the wheel out of lock position making it almost impossible to turn the key. I'm not sure if this was the main culprit of the no start but it was suggested that I replace it so I agreed. New keys etc it turns like new of course. Included with the switch came a new harness. This was a major bonus for me because I was just reading about some harness nightmares with the 97. I'm guessing Honda did this because of complaints. The old harness was split open and had signs of a modification for probably a car alarm. There was also a splice on an individual wire. Third: New coil, tech said that the original tested ok but was weak on 2 of 4 of the legs. It was already apart so I now have a so so backup if I ever need one. Lastly the ECU was from a junkyard. At this point it didn't surprise me but at least I know. So now I have a new problem. My wipers wont work on relay, no wiper fluid and I have to time turning them off so they are in the down position.? Switch or motor? Harness related?
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