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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair



  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    I agree with your info.

    Couple other things.

    There is a hot water shutoff valve inline with the hose going into heater coil.
    lever inline with hose = open, lever 90 degree with hose = off. this will affect air condition and heat. Location, engine side, near fire wall.

    Bleed air by opening screw located on or near thermostat housing.

    Old hand trick, is the engine hot or cool to touch. Is the radiator hot or cool to touch.
  • I would suspect you have no thermostat at all (it has been removed), or, it is stuck open; otherwise the coolant temperature wouldn't drop below the normal operating temperature. Usually there are problems with the temperature being too high, not too low. Yes, you need a new gasket anytime the thermostat is replaced to avoid O-ring compression set (unless it was a week ago-they're cheap and you don't want a leak).

    The other possibility is a defective temperature sending unit causing the temperature gage to read low - you can check it by removing the coolant cap, starting the car, and putting a thermometer in the coolant while the car warms up - the thermometer should track the gage on the dash.

    Your RPM's depend on whether you have an automatic or manual transmission: automatics run the engine 500 RPM faster than manual transmissions, by design.
  • have you replaced the ignition coil assy, I had problems similar to yours and I replaced the ignition coil assy, all fixed problem gone(two years now) hint is if any tach irregularities at all.
  • I wish I were in the Bay Area, but I moved to Modesto 2 years ago, and keep getting juiced by auto mechanics over here. The last mechanic that worked on my car (replaced the radiator, thermostat, engine coolant sensor and temperature sensor, major tune-up, 4 wheel alignment, front and rear brakes, paid him $800!) told me my catalytic converter might be going out. I researched online and found that extreme engine overheating probably had something to do with the cat failing, and that now the failing cat is causing my car to continue to overheat, is that true, and if so, how ironic is that?!! My fuel economy has now dropped sharply, I seem to keep losing coolant, though it hasn't leaked underneath the car or at least that I can see, I have checked the oil to make sure there is no coolant mixed in with it, and just last week when I was driving the car I suddenly found it painful to breathe. It was as if my sinuses were breathing in fiery hot fumes, and I actually began to panic. I rolled down all windows and opened the sunroof and could not get in any air without pain and distress. When I did get home, I ran into my house and immediately found that I could breathe without any discomfort or burning sensation. For lack of automotive technical knowledge, I have to ask, is what I experienced a symptom of an extreme exhaust leak? Is that caused by the catalytic converter going out? I am now afraid to drive this car, and convinced it's going to kill me. I know it sounds dramatic, but this is so scary and unbelievable for me. What would you advise I do to achieve at least a short term fix so I can try to sell the car and get something else that doesn't freak me out everytime I have to go somewhere? I should mention that the interior of the car is immaculate, title is clean, there are some dings on the body but nothing serious, and the car doesn't even have 109,000 miles yet. I've had it for 13 months now, and it's been nothing but trouble for months now. What would you do if you were me?
  • Thanks for your words of wisdom, I will definitely take the advice you gave so generously, anything helps at this point!
  • Did you find a solution to your problem. I have a 1996 Accord LX 5 speed and I also have NO Dash Lights or Rear Lights. The only thing that works are my head lights. I need solutions PLEASE Anybody
  • alfistaralfistar Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Honda Accord the old Axle broke now that I'm trying to put the new one in it will not go in all the way i have attached a picture of what i think is on the way of the axle can you confirm that and please tell me what i should do next.

    Thank you for your help and time.
  • I don't see where I can view the pic. But as long as you removed the end that goes into the transmission and the clip on the spline is still on the old one than the new axle should go in really easy. Just --- with one hand holding the outer end of the shaft and the other end holding the inner end. Slide the spline into the trans and push it in as far as it will go. Then put both hands on the outer cv joint, pull it out a very little and then with some force snap (push) it in. It should go right in, just as long as you haven't already damaged the clip on the end of the spline.
  • My honda seems to be leaking oil pretty heavily. It looks like it's coming from the back left corner, as I'm standing infront of the car. I replaced the valve cover gasket. Didn't help. I started the car again, when pressure builds it looks like the oil is coming from the base of the EGR valve area. Could this be possible? Would that mean that oil is getting into my exhaust system? This car has over 210,000 miles. 2.2 VTEC engine. I'd like to fix it myself it possible. I don't want to put a bunch of money in this car.

    Any advice / help will be much appreciated.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,644
    Is this at the exhaust manifold bracket, near the AC compressor? If so that's a known issue---a cracked engine boss that holds the exhaust manifold bracket. You'll have to use some kind of bonding sealer on that crack and then attach a new manifold bracket to the AC compressor bracket. If there is no AC, (DX model) you'll have to install an AC bracket.

    Other known areas where this engine leaks would be the cam sensor gasket and the balance shaft seal.
  • airbrn508airbrn508 Posts: 2
    Ok, my mistake. I now believe the part I'm referring to is the Solenoid Assembly. I think maybe I need to replace the Solenoid base Gasket. I'll let you know if that was the problem. Thanks for the help.
  • nikkie24nikkie24 Posts: 3
    ok so my honda is overheating the water pump thermosate cooling fan and most hoses are new. i looked at the radiator no leaks. what i want to know is there any hoses that are underneith where i cant see from the top? i really need someones help with this one.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    edited May 2011
    Who replaced all the parts?
    Did they bleed the system?
    There should be a bleeder plug in or near the thermostat housing.
    It is also possible to bleed at one of the higher hoses by removing it.
    Are you sure it is overheating or is the gauge giving you a false reading?
    Could be temperature sensor or gauge is bad.
    Are the fans running when hot. If not you need to look at the fan sensors.
    The system not being bleed will cause all the sensors to read incorrect.
    Look in the radiator cap and see if you can see the water moving. :D
  • nikkie24nikkie24 Posts: 3
    i changed the parts myself and yea i did bleed it the fans r running like they should yes the water is moving in the radiator my car is overheating i got the waterfall to prove its not giving me a faulse reading u can see it coming out if u look under the car but i cant find where its coming from i dont know if there r hoses some where that i cant see from the top or what
  • tybumtybum Posts: 4
    Nikkie, check to see if you have a head casket leak. I did and use a new stop leak from Advance Auto that is guaranteed to fix it. On the second try it did work, pour it in slowly.

  • nikkie24nikkie24 Posts: 3
    ok thanks i will try that
  • des1243des1243 Posts: 2
    From the sounds of your problem it seems that your fan is wired to the air conditioning which isn't the way it should be. You may have to have it rewired to where it's correctly wired and make sure that it won't continuously go because if it does after that then it's connected to the battery and that's wrong to. I hope this might be a consideration in the problem.
  • des1243des1243 Posts: 2
    The radiator in the car was replaced recently and the secondary fan never stops going because the repair shop wired it to the battery and it keeps killing the battery in my fiance's car. We had to disconnect it so I was wondering if anyone would know how to rewire the secondary fan so that it isn't wired to anything that it's not supposed to be wired to. I would very much appreciate the help.
  • tallman1tallman1 Posts: 1,874
    If it were me, I'd take it back to the repair shop and make them do it right.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Go to

    Wait for Free Download (timer count down) and download PDF file.
    Go to AC/Heater section to trouble shoot
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