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Honda Accord (1994-1997) Maintenance and Repair



  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Check the fuse for the fuel pump.
    Check the fuse for the injectors.

    Check for voltage at fuel pump.

    Download the Service Manual, it tells you how to trouble shoot the fuel system.
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    Here is a link to a troubleshooting flow chart. Hope it helps:

  • I have a 1995 Honda Accord EX Sedan 4 Speed Automatic Transmission. Its VIN indicates that it was made in Japan. It has over 220,000 miles on it. Drives beautifully, till now!

    A few days ago I cranked up the car and it started normally. Changed the Shift to 'D4' and then turned on the AC, about to drive. AC turned on normally. But I realized that I had forgotten to pick up something and so I changed the Shift back to 'P' and the car went dead. I was not able to start the car again. It cranks just fine, but does not start. I then noticed that the D4 light kept blinking.

    Based on the posts on this site, I retrieved the OBD codes manually and they read as below:

    1 8 13 and 14.

    The Engine Check Light is a steady yellow.

    I have a previous SRS problem that I have not fixed yet. When I did the above test, the SRS light on the dashboard was also blinking.

    Does this indicate a faulty ECM?

    Is this a certain diagnosis? Or can I do anything else to confirm before I purchase a new/used part.

    If I removed the ECM, can I do any basic functional test with a multimeter to confirm that it is faulty.

    Thanks. Any help is appreciated.
  • My heat control knob won't open the valve to let water into the heater core. It works when going from hot to cold (valve closes). I can operate the valve by hand and I have taken the knob off and it's not cracked, the shaft from the knob that goes into the dash appears fine also. Why will it work going from hot to cold but not the other way? Any one had this problem? Thanks.
  • Hello,

    My wife recently bought a used 1995 Honda Accord with a 2.2L (non Vtech). It is Automatic and had several problems when she purchased it.

    First off the speedometer wouldn't work (it was unplugged from the sensor).

    The second thing was that it was loosing coolant (water pump- I changed it and replaced the timing belt and such).

    The main problem it is having, that I can't figure out for the life of me, is that it stalls out all the time. Mind now, It will only stall out once it reaches operating temperature. Even then, if I allow it to warm up by just sitting in idle it will run till it runs out of gas or I shut it off.
    As soon I take it for a drive and it reaches operating temp it will stall at low rpms (such as a traffic light, stop sign, w/e) It will keep running if I keep the accelerator held in slightly.
    I have tried changing the fuel filter and spark plugs/wires and other tuneup related repairs but it still does the same thing. Mind now, It has been stalling out the same way even before I changed the Timing and Balance shaft belts.

    Does anyone here have any idea on what would be causing this problem? Remember, it runs fine till it gets warmed up and I use the accelerator, then it won't hold idle and just stalls.
  • It's almost a guarantee it's stalling because of a lack of fuel pressure. Why? When the car is cold the computer deliberately makes the mixture rich; when it warms up it leans out the mixture. If it will idle forever, then there is adequate fuel flow to the injectors - AT IDLE.

    When you put demands on the fuel supply system however (warm=lean mixture; accelerate from stop=rush of fuel needed), the car will stall. Slight opening in throttle lowers fuel demand and car will keep running (although poorly).

    Best thing to do: check the fuel pressure actually supplied to the injector rack with a fuel pressure gage (Harbor Freight Tools has one for <$20; can be ordered on-line). Bolt this in and test. I forget how much pressure should be there always (36 psi or 9 psi). This will confirm you are getting adequate fuel pressure even under acceleration. Hope it's not the electric fuel pump - could be $400 to replace. Reconfirm for dirty fuel filters/clogged/bent fuel line. Should be 36 psi under all circumstances - if it drops off for some reason (weak fuel pump) then the car will sputter and stall.

    Could also be the fuel "main relay" (virtually all of them failed in this series of Honda; the replacement relay has same design defect; can be repaired by taking apart and resoldering, or replacing). A failed main relay will cause a stall when the car gets hot - however it will not restart until it cools off (which could be hours).
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Hey all,

    I have a 1996 Accord LX with 232k miles on it. It has slowly developed an abnormality with the turn signals when the weather is cold. The colder the interior of the car, the longer it takes for the signals to begin to flash. On a morning when the temp is under 40 it can take as long as 45 seconds to start flashing. The hazard lights work immediately when you press the button regardless of temp. The mechanic replaced the flasher, but the issue didn't change.

  • It may be the switch itself. Switches always have a coating of grease in the mechanism, yours could have thickened from age and that's slowed down the moving contact. Depending on the design, the contacts may be exposed and spraying a lubricant may help.

  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The odd part is that once the interior warms up, maybe 15 mins into the drive, the blinkers are much quicker to respond. In the summer, there is no lag at all.
  • Grease like anything else gets thinner as it warms. My bet is still on the switch.

    You probably could take a hair dryer and blow the heat in the area of the switch when it's cold and acting up to see if that makes a difference.

  • On an ad on craigslist, a guy is selling his accord that has recently threw a rod. How much approx. would it cost to replace the engine in a car like this? Any rough estimations would be appreciated. Thanks
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,647
    edited October 2011
    Well a used one installed by someone other than yourself is probably a $1500 proposition at least; a rebuilt engine is out of the question--you could buy an entire, clean good running '94 Accord for less.

    My point of view is that a '94 Accord with a blown engine is a free car, or maybe $250 if you are generous.

    Buying a dead car is risky because you cannot test the rest of it.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    Take a look at this site.

    Compete engines $895.00 plus $100.00 Shipping
    Japanese JDM engines, Between 20 to 60 thousand mileage.
    Highly recommend Japanese JDM engines, I have one now in my car and runs excellent. Better than rebuilt engines.

    Install it your self, find a buddy with know how if you don't know.
  • My recently acquired 1997 LX Accord Auto trans overheated on a short trip to town. The heat gauge was pegged when I smelled something hot. I stopped immediately, raised the hood and the entire engine compartment was splattered with coolant.
    After trailering the car home I replaced the radiator which had a blown lower seal and coolant sensor. While awaiting parts and time, I started the car several times and moved it around the driveway. It always started right up.
    After refilling the system, the car started up and ran fine initially. Later I restarted the engine with difficulty. It stuttered for a short while then seeded to smoth out. I drove 7 minutes into town and shut it off after arriving. During the drive, the temp gauge swung to nearly hot, then rapidly dropped to mid gauge. I had a lot of difficulty starting the car back up and the check engine light came back on. I did get her started, drove home and parked but now it will not restart at all. The engine cranks ok but not so much a sputter. I will go out later and check the oit cap to see if there is goo around it. I have not seen any steamy exhaust, or smoke under the hood or fluid under the car at all.

    Any ideas or help appreciated.
  • jimdempsterjimdempster Posts: 34
    edited November 2011
    You've got some serious problems here you can't fool around with (if it's not already too late).

    Engine overheating can cause the piston rings to get so hot that they relax and no longer form an effective seal. This means that more oil can get into the combustion chamber (so you burn oil) and passing smog is more difficult. The only way to fix this is to completely dissassemble the engine and replace the piston rings (complete engine overhaul). Never let your engine overheat!

    A contributing factor to engine overheating is 'hard water' deposits forming inside the radiator and engine, if you dilute the coolant with tap water instead of distilled water. The deposits are white, and are the same thing as deposits that form inside a tea kettle. You need a special Prestone acid-based 2 part radiator flush to get rid of these deposits. If you have them, your engine will continue to overheat even after fixing the radiator. You can see them simply by removing the radiator cap (while the engine is cool) and looking inside the radiator. If they are thick, the radiator/engine coolant system needs to be "boiled out" (cleaned) or your engine will overheat climbing a hill. If this goes on too long, the deposits plug up the radiator channels. Most mechanics don't care about diluting coolant with distilled water, so it's a common problem. It's the same reason you should use distilled water in your steam iron, or it will plug up too.

    If you see water/goo in the oil, then you have a cracked block, head gasket, or head - those just get replaced. If you see oil in the coolant, same resolution.

    A sticky thermostat could cause the temp gage to swing to nearly hot, then possibly snap open and temp drop to normal as you describe. If you replace the thermostat, replace the o-ring and electric temperature sensor at the same time - it needs to provide an accurate electrical signal to the computer and sometimes they age/fail.

    Coolant is mildly corrosive (glycolic acids and chromium chromate) and will strip paint if left on painted surfaces for any length of time - they should be washed off.

    In any case, continuing to drive the car when overheating will cause either the need for complete engine overhaul, a seized engine requiring replacement, or an engine fire. The transmission can overheat too. I've seen these things personally - you need to get this fixed pronto.

    The check engine light is a separate problem (but possibly related). You will need a OBDCII read-out device to read the check engine messages. You can get one from Harbor Freight Tools; cost is <$60. Just plug it in and it will tell you what the problem is. This will really help solving your re-starting problem. The computer monitors engine temperature, but that's not the only possible source of the check engine light - you really can't debug these problems without the tool.

    Generally speaking, "no restart at all" problems boil down to either lack of ignition or fuel. Lack of spark is fairly easy to check if your car won't start; if you have spark you will at least get a 'pop' or sputter. (Squirting some starting fluid in the air cleaner will provide fuel temporarily and confirm there is spark).

    Honda's are notorious for the "main fuel relay" problem - virtually all of them fail sooner or later due to a design defect Honda doesn't want to fix - the car won't restart after it gets hot, and is worse on a hot day. After it cools down for several hours it starts and runs just fine, and then will fail again after the main fuel relay gets hot again. There is a solder joint that fatigues and needs to be re-soldered, or just replace the relay (it's under the dash).

    A car running very lean will run hot too, so there's a chance there's something else contributing to running hot than just the coolant system.
  • omarromarr Posts: 88
    I would not get to excited yet.

    The coolant system needs to have the air bleed out of the coolant system.
    A sign of air in the system is erratic temperature readings.
    There is a bleeder plug in or near the thermostat housing.
    You can also loosen one of the highest radiator hoses.

    Use caution when the water is HOT.

    Get some WD-40, LPS or other similar spray lubricant and spray the wiring, connectors and fuse block to displace any moisture.

    Pay particular attention to the distributor inside and out.
  • As a follow up to the original post, I did bleed the cooling system when I refilled with new antifreeze. After the last post, I went outside and the Accord started on the first crank. I let her idle for till she warmed up to check the ATF. Then shut it off while working on another project. When I tried to restart after 20 minutes or so, she would not even sputter, although I did listen for and heard the fuel pump hum when I turned the igniton key one click before cranking her up.
    I checked the exhaust pipe while she ran, no smoke or steam. Also on the oil filler cap and dipstick, no gooey white junk like I have seen on other cars with head gasket problems.
    Where should I begin checking relays and such?? Or maybe a pressure leak down test??
    I am not driving the car at this time.

    Thanks for all replies.
  • jimdempsterjimdempster Posts: 34
    edited November 2011
    The "starts once - won't start after it warms up" repetitive behavior is very consistent with the mail fuel pump relay problem. What happens is that when the car is cold, the relay circuit board connectors shrink back into electrical contact, so the car starts. When the car has been operating for awhile, the relay heats up, expands, and breaks the electrical contact to the circuit board. Re-soldering can re-establish the connection permanently. The root cause is solder-joint fatigue from the circuit board to the actual relay contact 'legs'. You need a 10X magnifying lens just to see the microcrack - it's finer than a hair. Just a modest amount of heat is enough to expand the joint, and the electrical connection is broken. It's always worse in the summer or when the car is parked in the sun.

    If you noticed the fuel pump operation when you turned the ignition key once while it was cold, listen carefully for the same thing when it is hot. If it is a failed fuel pump relay, the pump won't make a sound. Of course, after the pump has been in operation for awhile, it doesn't need to turn on because the fuel has already been pressurized. You could wait until the fuel pressure leaks down, but then the relay might have cooled off. The most reliable way to test to see if the pump has electrical power is to pull up the rugs in the trunk and see if you can get access to the electrical connector on top of the pump, and use a voltmeter to see if you have ~12V.

    The main fuel pump relay has failed on virtually all Hondas from 1990 onward. It has a design defect in that the printed circuit board has no stress reliefs designed in, so the board is very rigid and promotes solder joint fatigue. I've replaced it twice on my car (200,000 mi) and my friends Honda. Honda knows better but doesn't want to fix it (after all: they're not paying for it).

    It's a characteristic of Hondas with fuel injection to not start (without even a sputter) if fuel (or fuel pressure) is lost. Since the car starts and runs well at least for a little while while it's cool, that tells you the ignition is working fine, so it is likely in your fuel system.

    The main fuel relay is mounted under the dash on the driver's side WAYYY up there behind some other brackets and other relays. You need a ratchet wrench with 10mm socket and 8" extension to remove the other stuff and get to the relay. I think it was a 6 conductor red plastic connector into the relay. Honda is the only one selling the relay. If you don't have the money, but have a soldering iron, you can remove the relay, take off the cover and re-solder the big relay contacts and re-assemble. The replacement part you buy from Honda will have the same design defect, so eventually you'll have to do this again.

    In a pinch, you can get a schematic, figure out what electrical wires the relay is connecting to power up the fuel pump, and jumper them with some leads with alligator clips. I've had to do this in an emergency when I was stuck on side of the road. The electrical connection I made manually just did what the relay did normally. Of course I disconnected the wires when I got home so not to discharge the battery.

    The coolant problem is not consistent with your starting problem - they're probably separate problems. A pressure leak down test is a good idea anyway (Harbor Freight Tools has the tools cheap).

    Harbor Freight also has a fuel pressure test gage kit (<$20) that can test the performance of your fuel pump (and whether you're getting fuel pressure from the pump). I don't think this is your problem: the car sounds like it runs fine when it's cooled down.

    There is an obscure possibility that there is a deeper problem with your computer & sensors (the computer behaves differently when cold vs. hot), but exhaust this much more likely possibility first. If your Check Engine light keeps coming on, you still have more problems to uncover - get the OBDC II read-out tool from Harbor Freight and see what messages your computer is sending
  • Today, with overnight temps around 40 and 52 now, the car will not start at all. I cranked repeatedly and got a sputter, but no fire. Would main fuel relay replacement still seem an good starting piece to replace? I plan to replace the thermostat, too as a safeguard for piece of mind?
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