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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair



  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Posts: 419
    If your car stalls even when you are driving at around 30 mph, it probably is the ignition switch. There is a recall on the ignition switch and Honda will fix it for free after the dealer diagnoses that that is the problem.
  • cannell3cannell3 Posts: 39
    My driver's side rear door (exterior) is not working-you pull on it, but it doesn't activate the latch. I have to open the door from the inside latch. Can anyone tell me where to find the instructions to replace/repair the handle? I assume that I buy the parts at my Honda dealer? Thanks in advance.
  • rhubertyrhuberty Posts: 18
    I have $50.00 for someone that can help me troubleshoot this issue (honestly I will drop the check in the mail if I eliminate the problem for 30 days straight). '98 Accord EX w/ 4 cylinder & auto transmission. History: Currently 180,000 miles, ignition switch replaced 2 times (can rule this out as problem). At 109K transmission was replaced under warranty (thanks Honda), at 110K timing belt and water pump replaced, at 160K plugs, wires, cap, rotor and thermostat replaced. Just replaced 2nd clutch pressure swith (loose, caused oil leak and code p1738). Other than that nothing done mechanically other than normal oil, filter, plug changes, etc. Currently have codes p0172, p0420 and p1457 (converter, evap leak, o2 sensor, etc. - and yes I am cheap) - these codes have been hanging around for thousands of miles and I'm of the opinion all emissions related and not that relavant to my problem - I'm sure some will say take care of them and that might help with the issue. Here is the issue - car runs great 98% of the time. Occasionally, I can be going down the highway and I will get a slight hesitation - sometimes won't happen for days - comes and goes. Just occurs for a second, may happen 2-3 times over 5 miles then may go away for a week or so. It does appear that the tach drops at hesitation but it's so quick it's hard to tell for sure. Always starts well, idles well and accelerates well. This has been going on for 40-50K+ miles. Any help would be appreciated and yes I can take some good ribbing for entertainment purposes.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Don't know if this would apply to your engine, or symptoms, but you might want to check it out.
  • corkscrewcorkscrew Posts: 254
    Hello rhuberty,
    First' follow elroy's link to port cleaning and check it out.
    Second, replace the O2 sensor before the cat:,
    with a litle luck this will erase code P040
    Third, look for a vacuum leak in the evap system (canister system) and last, did you replace the spark plugs with Honda recomended plugs? There should be a sticker under the hood with the plug type and gap. Also look for a leak in the exhaust system.
  • zpaconzpacon Posts: 1
    Did you get any suggestions about your speedometer needle? I have the same problem after removing the battery and I had not been able to get it to go back to its correct position.

    ..Another thing that happened was that the needle on the speedometer fell past the little rubber stopper it usually rests on and now I cant tell how fast I am going, the needle still moves so I know its working
  • One of the brake lights is not working after I had my car serviced and the BRAKE light is on. This happened once earlier and the brake light started working by itself without me doing anything and the BRAKE light disappeared. It looks to me like there is a loose connection or short in the wiring of that Brake Light. Has anyone faced this problem and how did you resolve it?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Posts: 815
    Have you verified that the bulbs are good? I would take the dead one out and see if the filament is broken inside. If your not sure if it's good or bad, get a new bulb, they are not that expensive.

  • I have a 1998 Honda Accord EX. It has about 120,000 miles on it. I started having electrical problems with it about a year ago. The cars electrical compents will completely shut off in stop and go traffic. It is usually whent the A/C is on. The RPMs and the MPH will dip way down, but i'm guessing they have to do with the electric in the car. Any suggestions?
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,637
    I would have the battery load-tested, the cables cleaned and checked (especially the ground cable where it attaches not only to battery but to the frame) AND I would have the alternator output tested as well.
  • I also have a 1998 Accord V6, it has 198K miles on it, but I have never experienced the problems that u have mentioned. I would say have the Alternator checked out.
  • georgew1georgew1 Posts: 28
    The 1998 Accord had a recall on the ignition switch for what sounds like the very thing you are dealing with. Stalling intermittenly. Some have had the switch fail more than once. If you haven't had it done on the recall, that might be your problem.
    Any Honda dealer should have a record if it was replaced in the past.
    Worth a try to check it out.
    Good luck.
  • teddybearneilteddybearneil Posts: 15
    edited November 2011
    My 98 Accord has 196K miles on it and the Check Engine Light has been on since it was 180K miles. I got the Catalyctic converter changed, the light disappeared for a month or so and lit up again. From what I have read on the internet, there could be multiple parts and reasons for this problem and we could end up spending a **** load of money trying to fix this issue. Any one faced and fixed this problem?
  • beetoy61beetoy61 Posts: 8
    did you check your oxygen sensor,or the v-tech sensor,these parts are the reason for that annoying check engine.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    AutoZone will have the check-engine-light code read for free.
  • I did go to the Autozone the first time around and the print out only gives you ALL the POSSIBLE reasons for the problem apparently and as I mentioned, we would need to try fixing one by one and the bill could tote up to a grand eventually. For a 98 Accord with 198K miles on it..that is too much to spend I think..
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    My first instinct is the O2 sensor. I have a '96, and it is the only chronic problem; I'm on the 4th sensor in 6 years. I think it snacks on them. :shades:
  • kevman3kevman3 Posts: 30
    I would think its the O2 sensor as well, as I have changed a few. 198K, now thats a great run. Let us know when you go over 200.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I'm now at 211k, check engine light on on my '96, and once again it is an O2 sensor. Since I'm still averaging 27-30 MPG depending on driving style and route, I'm not spending the money to fix it right now.

    These are great cars!
  • beetoy61beetoy61 Posts: 8
    try the fuel pressure regulator,it might solve your problem,the part is 50 bucks and it's easy to do it.i hope this will help you.good luck.
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