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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair



  • Class action isn't always as good as it sounds. Lawyers make most of the money, and often the settlements are quite modest. For the Honda brakes, for instance, the re-imbursement settlement is $125 maximum. True, better than nothing, but does it erase all the aggravation and expense? Not nearly. And often there's paperwork to fill out, and even a participatory fee on the part of the car owner.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,355
    I do know that forums attract people with problems like a magnet.

    It doesn't take a class action lawsuit for Honda to extend a warranty. I watched them do that many times especially when the customer was a loyal service customer. We would present our request to our factory rep. We would show evidence of good maintenance and he would usually OK the repair.

    Again, I doubt if those with problems believe me but transmission problems on four cylinder Accords are NOT common.

    If you are a person affected, obviously it's a BIG problem.
  • hbund216hbund216 Posts: 162
    While merging onto the freeway, my 2000 Accord stalled. Tried to restart and it would not restart. Noticed something was strange when the warning lights were not on and the speedometer was at zero while moving. Pulled over and noticed a few more things. When the key was in position one the radio came on and everything was normal. However in position two the instrument panel did not come on as it always does. So the odometer, and warning lights did not come on. In addition the power windows and sunroof did not work either. As if position two was just not there. I turned to position 3 and the starter cranked but the car would not start. After about 20-30 minutes the cars started just fine. Has anybody ever faced this issue before? Some research shows that this might be an ignition switch.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,355
    Strange...My guess and it's only a guess would be a bad ignition switch.

    In any event, I would definatly take it in because if it happened once, it'll probably happen again.

    I learned that people who have a lot of keys on their key ring then to wear out ignition switches. Makes sense with the extra weight swinging back and forth over time.
  • hbund216hbund216 Posts: 162
    Thanks isellhondas. I've been reading that the ignition switch is a common problem on the cars and the symptoms match mine (google Honda Accord ignition switch). Older models have had recalls and I hear the problem comes back. Apparently it's the electrical portion and not the mechanical. Going to buy the part and install it myself.

    And I only keep the alarm on the key ring.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,355
    Well, I hate to see you guess and be wrong.

    It's really not a common problem unless your ten year old Accord has a lot of miles on it?

    Having it cut out at the worst possible time could be a real problem so I hope the switch fixes it!
  • hbund216hbund216 Posts: 162
    It is a guess but since the part has been recalled before and some research on the boards shows that people have had similar symptoms on this generation of the Accord and the fix was the ignition switch (electric portion) I'm going to take my chances. Sadly people with recalls have posted that they have had to have the same part replaced again. Before doing anything I'm going to see if my car has a recall or TSB against it.

    I don't understand your second sentence. But my Accord is somewhat low mileage at 104,000. Common problems can occur early on or later on in a cars life.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,355
    104,000 miles isn't that many.

    If your Accord had 250,000 miles than I would think a bad switch would be more possible.

    If this is, indeed, a "common" problem I think I would have heard of it.

    Good lucj with your fix!
  • hbund216hbund216 Posts: 162
    Why do say a switch would be more likely to fail at 250K instead of 104K? Is the ignition switch failure based on mileage? Most of the posts that I see regarding this are around 07 or 08 but don't have mileages posted. I would think a switch failure would be based on number of times the ignition is cycled or something like that. As for it being common... it's subjective. Looking around different forums I see various people having stalling issues with their accords and this fixing it. I suppose I see a few forums with the same problem and the same fix working and I think it's common.

    I'll keep you guys posted on what happens.
  • dianeodianeo Posts: 2
    Hello. My ABS light goes on intermitently and my mechanic has found nothing wrong with the ABS. He reset the ABS light and suggested that I take the car to the dealership, since the light went on 5 minutes after he reset it.
    I am loathe to go to Honda with this, for I am sure they will find a problem that costs as much to fix as the car is worth.

    Thoughts? Experiences?
    Thank you.
  • dianeodianeo Posts: 2
    edited October 2010

    My clear coat seems to be flaking off on my poor 10 year old Accord. A quick look around the internet seems to indicate that I need a paint job and another clear coat added. YIKES!!!! My main concern is simply that the car resist rusting for as long as possible. I don't have a lot of miles on the car and I don't drive it very much, so I would like it to last for at least 5 more years, if possible.

    Thank you
  • You can get touch-up clear coat at most auto parts stores. If the base (color) coat is still there and you don't mind the so so look of the paint being touched up, I would think the clear coat touch-up would help.

  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 17,355
    It's impossible to guess what your ABS problem is. It could be something inexpensive or it could be very expensive to fix.

    Can you live without ABS? I think that would be the worst case senario. A lot of cars don't have ABS and most of us lived without ABS for years.

    If you live in an area without ice and snow, it probably wouldn't be a big deal.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Gotta a question,guys. I select D3 for short errands around town. My question is: Does my torque converter lock up in D3 on my 2002 Accord? Thanks.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Hey blufz, may I ask why you select D3? It'll only hurt your fuel mileage.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Sure,if the drive is short at speeds below 40 then I don't want my transmission to make unnecessary shifts and the TC to lock up, any more than necessary. I'm just trying to prolong the life of my transmission. It's O.K. if it costs me 1 mpg or so. What do you think?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Seems like, if anything, there'd be extra wear from the extra heat of the modestly higher RPMs and the extra shift made by the gear selector every time. Just my personal and unprofessional opinion. In the grand scheme, I doubt it'll make too much difference either way. Was just curious. ;)
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    No extra shift made by the gear selector. If I know it's going to be a stop and go city trip,I just select D3,when I leave home, instead of D4.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    You still hit D4 and go to D3; a notch further in the selector.

    If you're staying in the low 30s MPH, your car likely won't go to 4th anyhow, right?
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Yes. When I leave home,I just select D3 instead of D4 and that's it. Normally it would shift up to 4th at about 38-40. Selecting D3 just prevents the upshift to 4th, the TC lockup in 4th,and subsequent down shifting back into 3rd,etc., at the next stoplight. Also prevents any transmission "hunting" between 3 and 4. I figure less shifting is less wear. If I am going to run a freeway errand then I just select D4 when I leave home. Like it so far for so errand running.
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