Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair



  • bahaybahay Posts: 4
    I found on Ebay. I had the same problem with my clock. I changed bulb. I purchased on Ebay for about $4.
  • bahaybahay Posts: 4
    I don't know if you tried this...if not, try it...

    Entering the programming mode cancels all learned keyless remotes, so none of the previously programmed remotes will work. You must reprogram all of the keyless remotes once you are in the programming mode.

    You must complete each step within 5 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode.

    1. Turn ignition switch to ON (II)
    2. Press the LOCK or UNOCK button on one of the remotes. (An unprogrammed remote can be used for this step.)
    3. Turn ignition switch to LOCK (0)
    4. Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 two more times using the same keyless remote used in step 2
    5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II)
    6. Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button on the same remote. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm you are in programming mode.
    7. Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button on each remote you want to program. Make sure door locks cycle after you push each remote button to confirm system has accepted the remote.
    8. Turn the igniton switch to LOCK (0) to exit programming mode.
    9. Test remote
  • bahaybahay Posts: 4
    edited July 2012
    Hello to all.
    I'm almost close to change transmission fluid, power steering fluid and brake fluid. I have a 2000 Honda Accord v6 sedan.
    Today I called Honda dealership to know how much they will charge for the service shown above and the person who does that service told me the following prices:
    Transmission fluid service - $99.50,
    Brake fluid exchange - $147.20,
    and power steering fluid exchange - $104.19

    Also he said that those prices include fluid, labor, shop supplies, and tax.

    I need advise. Is it to expensive to do it in dealership or it can be done more less in other places such as Jiffy Lube?

    Thanks in advance.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Best to let the dealer do the service,particulary,the transmission fluid drain and fill. Those prices are in the ballpark. I think my dealer charge $75. to do the trans drain and fill.
  • tseverson1tseverson1 Posts: 11
    I do not possess the skills to repair much on my 2001 Honda Accord EX.

    On Tuesday my auto repair shop put on new bushing(s) and link(s) on the left front control arm (driver’s side) because of a squeaking noise in that area. On Friday afternoon I heard a strange new noise coming from the motor area of the car. I opened the hood and saw the alternator was not aligned correctly. I drove the car about 20 more miles on Friday and did not hear any more strange noises.

    This morning (Saturday) my serpentine belt on the passenger side shredded when I started the car in the morning. I looked at the alternator and saw a loose bolt which caused the alternator to twist off center and the serpentine belt to shred.

    I can come up with two possible causes for this situation.

    First possibility: The shredded belt is a late result of the work of my brother (a very accomplished do-it-yourself mechanic who has a separate 2 stall garage for auto work) when he and I put on a new alternator over 6 months ago. Perhaps it took 6 months for the bolt to loosen and cause the problem.

    Second possibility and my question: Is it possible the mechanic who put on the new bushing(s) and link(s) on the left front control arm needed to loosen the alternator located behind the radiator on the right front (passenger side) of my car to accomplish his work?

    Your opinions and thoughts are greatly appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,412
    One shouldn't have to touch the alternator to work on the control arm, no.

    As for your brother--it's pretty hard to trace something like this back to a job done 6 months ago. More likely, just vibration worked it loose, or perhaps the threads on the bolt (or worse, the block itself) are damaged. I'd certainly inspect those things carefully before proceeding with a repair. It's also possible some bracket could have broken.


  • tseverson1tseverson1 Posts: 11
    Thanks for your reply and your useful information.
  • yusuf1yusuf1 Posts: 16
    Greetings all. Supposedly got the ac fixed a month ago, then 2wks later it's blowing ambient air again. The mechanic did install a used compressor though. Took it back to him, he put some freon in and it blew cool just for that day now its back to regular air. Basically I'm tired of putting money in and have started looking at newer vehicles. Could this be an easy fix though?
    Condenser maybe? Is it worth it with 282000 miles on it? Just thinking of cutting my losses. Any opinion would be helpful..thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,412
    Well, if he put freon IN, that means that freon leaked OUT at some point, so...where all leaks repaired and tested, first of all?

    Could be an expansion should perhaps go to an AC specialist and have the system tested.

    As much as it might cost to fix the AC properly, it's still way cheaper than another car. Presuming yours runs well and looks good, it would be worth the investment. You should be able to run the car up to 225K--250K.


  • yusuf1yusuf1 Posts: 16
    Thanks so much. I agree it would still be "cheaper to keep her" but its now at 282000 miles and I'm just suffering from car fatigue..we'll see.
  • dcman19dcman19 Posts: 4
    Hey so I think I might be having a similar problem with my accord. It's a 2001 Accord ex I just drove it over 200k miles. The problem has been going on for about 6 months now. Although I think mine might be slightly different; the only time the a/c doesn't work is when the dashboard a/c lights won't turn on. But once the a/c lights are on the a/c works great.

    I've spoken with a friend of mine who is great with cars and he thinks it could just be a bad ground behind the dashboard. Problem is if he is right I have absolutely no experience with dashboards and those can be very complicated.

    So question is if he is wrong what is the problem and if he is right where can I get reliable info. on how to remove the dash and fix it?

    Thanks for the help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,412
    I don't think that's a plausible diagnosis---the AC light won't go on because the AC circuit hasn't engaged the compressor.


  • therivertheriver Posts: 67
    02 sedan automatic with 135K. The bulb on the floor shift blew. No big deal, but is there an easy way to replace. I looked on-line and saw some directions but they were not right on for this model/yr.

  • belwah87belwah87 Posts: 15
    I've got a 2001 EX-L V6 that I'm about to try to sell. It has 81,000 miles on it. For about the last two years, the odometer often doesn't display the mileage in a readable form -- some of the lines on the readout don't show up, so you can't see the mileage. The miles change properly, it's just impossible to read them on the odometer at times. It doesn't bother me that much, and the problem is intermittant. Unfortunately, the dealer when doing scheduled maintenance one time recorded the mileage in the 90,000 mile range, even though it was really in the 70,000 mile range at the time, and it was reported to Carfax, so now it looks like there's a mileage inconsistency (even though the car really does have only 81,000 miles.)
    Three questions -- any idea how I can fix the odometer display so that it always shows the miles driven? How much is it likely to cost? Can I fix it without making it look like I've played with the odometer?
  • dcman19dcman19 Posts: 4
    Ok thats fine, I'm guessing that also explains why the a/c blows normal air no matter what the speed when the light won't work. Is the compressor working even though a/c isn't then? I get the feeling it's an electrical problem with getting the air cold. Because everything else about the a/c system works great. I've also noticed that the mileage number tends to short out so only the bottom half of the numbers on the odometer show from time to time. Is the problem related?

    Thanks for the help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,412
    yeah even if you have automatic climate control (that is, just dial a number), the AC light has to be on for the AC compressor to be presumed to be working. If you observe the AC clutch on the front of the compressor, you'll see that the front half spins with the belt, but the back half won't turn unless it gets an electrical signal from your controls.


  • Anyone know the best (and cheapest) place to buy replacement carpet floor mats for a 2001 Accord? I've seen a few option online but most don't look like the original ones.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    The 2001 Honda OEM floor mats at an on line Honda dealer; H and A Accessories in Citrus Heights, CA cost $64. I buoght a set for my old 2001 Accord. Those 98-2002 year mats were top quality and heavy weight mats.

    The newer model Honda mats are thin and cheap and cost the same!

  • So my boy had to get his car inspected but it failed due to his SRS light being on so he looked on line and read something that said he could turn it off with a paper clip. He messed up and stuck the paperclip into the SRS fuse port and im guessing it shorted the car because now nothing works. actually his headlights and his inner lights work thats it, he has to use his key to open it....Any suggestions??

    Oh p.s I told him not to jump it because i did not want to cause more problems
  • lll3lll3 Posts: 10
    Is there a specific blend of oil required for a 2000 Honda Accord ( only Honda oil) or may any brand oil be used so long as the weight is proper? Thanks.
Sign In or Register to comment.