Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

accordv61

which system then?

kiawah

The evaporator system, because you got error code pointing there. There are little rubber air hoses connecting canisters and tubing.

The error code is pointing to a leak. It could be a rubber hose cracked, canister cracked, etc. You need to check over the whole system carefully to figure out where the leak might be.

elroy5

If you plan on trying to do any work or maintenance on your car yourself, I suggest investing in a shop manual. The helm factory manuals are the best (about $80), but you can get one for under $20 at AutoZone or Advance (probably others too).

accordv61

thanks you guys. I'll try to figure it out

jeney

The Honda dealer tells me my emission valve is closing and needs to be replaced. I have 60,000 miles on the car. Also rear brakes. I had them replaced at 30,000 and need them again. Any thoughts on the emission valve or the rear brakes? Comments?

elroy5

jeney, the dealer could be right, and could be wrong. Who knows, but you may want to get a second opinion. Unless you are very hard on brakes, they should not be worn out at 30k miles. If the rears are worn out for the second time, and the fronts are still original, that doesn't sound right either. Is there another shop in your area you think you can trust? Second opinions are never a bad idea, IMO.

jeney

I did have the front brakes replaced at 35k miles. Forgot to mention that.

josaf462

I'm also having the same problem with my 98 Accord EX. If anyone could shed some light on this situation, it'd be much appreciated.

nicknsusan

Hello there,
I have an 01 honda accord lx, and it is making rear noise when i brake or slow down. I know it's not the brake because it is new and I just change it n stuff like that, and braking noise is more like a screeching noise. This noise sound more like a soft grinding noise but loud. It happen even if i don't step on the brake when it slowing down bout 15-20 mph. Some said it is the calibar, some said its the bearing and some said it the axle. Don't know who to listen too but I really do not want to bring it in to the shop because it will cause me an arm and a leg brfore they will tell what is wrong with it. PLEASE HELP....
Thanks all in advance
Susan

elroy5

I would jack the rear of the car up and turn the wheels by hand and shake them around to see if the noise happens then. Did you use the shims when you replaced the pads with the grease stuff between the shims and pads? That could be the noise maker, or it could be the bearings going out. Good luck finding the source

channel121

My mechanic told me my struts were bad but they would be okay for a month or two. A month and a half later now when I go over speed bumps or a dip in the surface especially I hear a clunk sound kinda creaking sound (from the back it seems). Kinda sounds like metal on metal. How can you tell if struts are bad? There is no sounds when I turn (no clicking) so I guess it's not the CV boots. It's a $450 job so I wanna make sure I understand.

user777

if you've lowered your vehicle, any speed bump or dip in the surface will be an experience.

here's an intro, you can google for more information
http://usedcars.about.com/od/usedcartestdrives/ss/Road_Test_6.htm

i personally like the bounce test and if the vehicle doesn't quickly stabilize, there's an issue. problem is, it's not a very objective test so YMMV.

if i looked at the struts and they showed signs of fluid leakage, that would be a done deal for me.

channel121

Thanks for the reply and link. I have not lowered it but by your article it seems to be a strut issue. Is there any place you can check out prices? I thought someone on here said they paid $175 to replace them and my guy says $450. Big difference.

user777

seems and is... it's possible it is another suspension component. it's possible the strut is just not mounted properly to the strut tower and there's room for movement. hard to say.

there's another forum for you to post your question:
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.efd3d52

monroe has this site which may be helpful:
http://www.monroe.com/tech_support/tec_faq.asp

Honda OEM struts can be found here (including other great pictures on parts / sub-assemblies... struts don't seem cheap):
front:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - - cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1998&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=FRONT+SHOCK+A- - - BSORBER

rear:
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - - cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=1998&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=REAR+SHOCK+AB- - - SORBER

if it were me, i'd probably bring it to an independant specializing in Honda unless a local dealer is running a special. :surprise:

is your guy an independant, dealer/service writer? i highly doubt (unless the vehicle was driven hard in very bad road conditions) you need struts all around. my cars have never ever failed struts: hondas, vws, mazdas...

just WAGing it, i would suspect a loose strut, or possibly a loose suspension component, missing rubber grommet or something like that, and i'd bring it for a third opinion to an independant.

jeney

I wonder how many of you know that the warranty has been extended to 80,000 miles on the EGR valve.
I went to the dealer last week for my 60k service. I needed a new transmission as well (which I told them was under an extended warranty) and they replaced it free of charge. However, I also needed rear brakes and an EGR valve. Cost of the valve with labor was $275. After I got home I happened to look in my "Honda folder" in my file cabinet and came upon the extended warranty info Hondo sent out in 2001 re the EGR valve. I called them this morning and they agreed to refund my $275 for the EGR valve.
However, I sincerely believe many other Honda owners have had this valve replaced and I am sure their delaer never informed them of the warranty, and they spent the money as I did. I really think the dealer shoul be aware at all recalls as well as extended warranties issued by Honda. At this point even though they are returning the money I am very disapointed with this dealership.

floridaman

Have 75K miles on 2000 Accord

Honda dealer suggests me do following services
1.Timing Belt $540
2.Master Cylinder $300
3. Braker Fluid Flush$90
4 Throttle Body service $100

Non dealer service @ MIDAS/ Pepboys quote me less.

Please suggest servicing at non dealer won't harm the engine?

thegraduate

First of all, if this is a 4-cylinder Accord, you shouldn't need a timing belt until 105k miles. Is this a 4-cylinder?

Second of all, I certainly hope your master cylinder is failing/leaking if you are replacing it. If not, I can't help but wonder why that is listed? Does your brake pedal sink towards the floor (losing hydraulic pressure) when you are stopped with your foot on the brake?

floridaman

Thanks graduate for reply
It is four cylinder accord and It doesn't seem to have leaking master cylinder. It has 76K miles and I drive less than 3-4 miles per trip ( severe conditions)

I do routine maintenance and oil change. During last oil change dealer suggest for this expence to do list

blufz1

Hey guys. Anybody have a good tip and tool to carefully clean the bugs off my radiator fins?

elroy5

I noticed a driving rain does a good job of it. If not, the car wash is the more difficult alternative.

blufz1

Thanks,Elroy. I think the fins are fragile and I don't want to bend them. I'll ask the dealer what they use. I may just let the bugs RIP if I can't remove them w/o bending the fins. Thanks,again.

dayll

I have a 98 Accord with an after market alarm that was installed right after I bought the car new. The remote(s) will trigger the ignition no problem but not the door locks. New batteries in the remotes didn't help. Is this a malfunction of the remotes, the door locks, or ? any ideas - thanks. dan

elroy5

Wow, how weak do you think radiator fins are? In southern Louisiana we have luv bugs (swarms of them) at points during the year. Around here we call them f--- bugs because that's what they do to your car. I can put the pressure washer right up to the radiator, and I haven't bent a fin yet. I don't know how else I could get those buggers out of there. I am very intent on keeping my radiator clean. The last thing I want is an over heated aluminum engine.

blufz1

Thanks,I really didn't know how rigid or pliable they might be. Maybe I'll just hose 'em down w/ the garden hose for starters. Agree w/ you re the heat. I occasionally open my hood when my car seems particulary hot. Makes a big difference in the rate of heat disapation.

thegraduate

I wouldn't bother with the timing belt yet. With such short trips, I would change my oil every 3,500 miles or so.

If your "BRAKE" dashboard indicator light isn't on, and you can't tell anything different about your brake pedal operation, I wouldn't bother with the master cylinder being fixed.

Have a great day!

Thegrad

elroy5

I looked it up in the manual (cleaning radiator fins) and it said to use a light spray of water, or a soft brush to remove debris. Ha! a light spray, or soft brush is not getting luv bugs jammed in there at 80mph off. I am more worried about rocks flying into the radiator (pretty easy for them to fly in there), than bending them with high pressure water, but whatever.

blufz1

Here's what I did. Crude but fairly effective. Just got a clean bathroom brush,opened the hood for access,and dry brushed at least 50% off. You're right, the fins were more rigid than I thought. My manual was apparently ripped off by one of the dealers used car guys when I shopped my car.

anne17

Hi:
In 2002, I bought a 1999 Honda Accord with about 33K on it at San Francisco Honda. Now my car has 109K on it. Six months ago my car was jerking at times. I was told that I needed a new transmission by SF Honda and the Celica Auto Salon. I took my Honda to my mechanic at Auto Service Center and they changed/flushed the transmission fluid and said to see how it drove for the next few months.

I drove the car, although it revved at times, the jerking mostly stopped. Recently, the car has started to overheat in traffic in hot weather. 2 weeks ago it over heated on the way home and I towed it to the Auto Service Center in SF. They told me that I should sell the car as quickly as I can and get something else. The car was very low on cooling fluid but they could not tell where it was leaking.

I wonder if anyone has an opinion on what might be causing the overheating and does it really sound like this is the end of my Honda's useful life. Would it be advisable to fix the transmission and investigate/fix the overheating problem and be back in business?

I would appreciate advice on this and if anyone has a good place to recommend for getting transmission work done in San Francisco or a great mechanic who could give me a second opinion.

Thanks, Anne - middle age single mom, not ready to spend all my money on a new car yet.

elroy5

You would get a second opinion for yourself, if you were sick, so why not do the same for your car? I have posted a link below, if you want to do some troubleshooting on your own. Just click on the links at the top left. There is one for transmissions and overheating. Good luck with the car.
http://techauto.awardspace.com/

thegraduate

user777

have you ever tried registering your vehicle on the honda website? you may find there's a downloadable version of your manual there. also this let's honda know who to send notices to for recalls, etc.

manuals can also be purcased on eBay and other web locations.

Mr_Shiftright

I'd have the overheating properly diagnosed first to see if it's just a leak somewhere or if you have head gasket problems. This should not be difficult to diagnose in a competent repair shop. Once the overheat is determined, either fix that first if it's not too serious, or if it's a head gasket, that's a toss-up in terms of a decision. I don't think you can buy another used car for the price of the head gasket. As for the transmission, here again, without enough good information you can't make a good decision. If your transmission is revving up the engine while you're in gear, as if it were in neutral, and then suddenly catches---that's not a great sign.

blufz1

Thanks,777. Appreciate the money saving suggestions. Thanks,again.

snuke

I have a 2000 ACCORD V6 with 76,000 miles. Recently, I have had difficulty disengaging the button on the shift to move from park to drive. After depressing the brake pedal several times, the button suddenly disengages and I can proceed as normal. Has anyone ever encountered this problem?

kiawah

Check that your brake pedal switch is working properly.

rafiks

What do you call this black plastic thing underneath the cars radiator. It covers the cars front starting below the cars fender and just before the engine.. Mine is cracked and a part of it is hanging. I had to tie a rope over it.

elroy5

It's called the splash shield.

rafiks

ahh ..ok ..i wonder how much is the replacement for this.. and if I can do this job by myself..

dawad

I had this problem a couple of years ago. The dealer never could diagnose the problem properly. Why? Well, because I drove the car there and since it was on and not in a "stalled state" the proper code never appeared. A new battery, tune up and ignition switch only made the dealer more money.

The problem was a bad FUEL RELAY SWITCH. Make sure that they check this component.

Bad fuel relay switch caused my car to stall at high speeds, low speeds, and in all weather conditions.

Good luck...I know how maddening the situation is.

snuke

Thanks Kiawah for responding to my question. I am a female who knows very little about cars. I do have however a very reliable technician who services Hondas/Acuras only. So, I will have him check the brake pedal switch. I was hoping it was a small thing I might could tackle myself.

dayll

My 98 Accord had "couldn't get it out of Park" problems and a service advisor at the Honda dealer told me over the phone to stomp hard on the brake pedal a few times to see if that would help. It did - and it is still coming easily out of Park some 25,000 miles later. Worth a try maybe. dayll

snuke

WOW, this is great to hear. This was what I had in mind with hoping it was something small I might could try myself. Thanks so much for your response. I will definitely try this. My car is due the 75,000 mile service. I will still make sure to mention the problem I have had so he can still check out the brake pedal switch as well.

kiawah

Snuke,

This is the same problem. There is a switch on the brake pedal, that when the brake pedal is depressed it turns on the switch. That switch turns on the back brake lights, and tells the transmission that it is okay to take out of Park.

If the switch is bad, your lights don't work and you don't get out of park.

You jamming on the brakes a couple times, is just trying to see if you can get the switch which might be intermittent...to work. If you have a bad or intermittent switch, get it replaced. You don't need someone running into the back of you causing an accident and you getting whiplash....nor do you want to be stuck somewhere not being able to go.

warren68

I just took my 1998 Honda to the mechanic for the same reason.
Their is a shift release button under the cover plate of the gear shift if it ever gets to the point you can not shift it out of park use this release button. You will need to stick a key into the small hole to release it.

My mechanic found that the break pedal switch had an open curciut and they need to replace the switch ASSY.

In the end I paid $300.00

mdl115

The engine light has intermittently come on and gone off for awhile. Took it to the dealer initially, they told me it was a fuel sensor. Light came back on the next day after replacing. Took it back they told me i needed a tune up(?). I stopped going to the dealer and found a local mechanic (ex-dealership mechanic). He cleaned out deposits in the intake manifold, light went off. Recently the light came back on and today while on the freeway light started blinking, and there was a noticable drop in acceleration in 4th and 5th gear. Engine felt like it was slipping/shuddering when initially putting into 5th at around 55-60 mph, lost power noticably going up inclines. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

kiawah

Take it to an autoparts chain, and have the error code(s) read. It's usually free at Autozone, PepBOys, etc.

The error codes will point to where the problem is.

elroy5

If you could get the stored codes read from Autozone or some other place, it could narrow down the possibilities. I sounds a lot like EGR clogging to me. Your mechanic may have cleaned out the EGR ports (in the intake), but not the EGR valve. Can't say for sure though, so you need to get the codes pulled. Good luck

accordv61

Hello guys, today I have time and went to the honda dealer to check the engine light, code, 1457, told evap leak. but I was also told I need change many things: evap canister and its shut valve, fuel tank pressure sensor and two way bypass vale ... totally $800+ this is really a lot for me... do you think it's worth to do that??? BTW, my milage did not change since the light was on, so I think there might not be any leakage in the canister, right?

kiawah

Most of the time manufacturers list all of the things that could typically cause the posted error codes. They usually do it in a "most likely" to "least likey" sequence.

What we don't know in your case, is whether the shop just gave you the complete list of things to replace....or whether they took the time to look at the individual items and conclude that it is indeed defective.

This becomes a convenience, cost, trust, and time tradeoff. You've gone to the inconvenience of getting the vehicle scheduled at the shop, you've paid (or will pay) the diagnostic fee, and now you try to decide how many of the pieces are actually needed. If they are not sure and only replace the first one, then you may still have the failing code, and have to take it back to the shop to get something else replaced on the list. More inconvenience and more diagnostic fees.

If you are replacing the pieces yourself, then you can do them one at a time as needed until the problem goes away.

How good is this shop technically, and can you trust their diagnostic approach? Have you asked them how sure they were which parts were defective?

accordv61

honestly I don't know how good is their technique. The only advantage they have is they are Honda Dealer.

And the only thing now I concern is the risk, how high will it be IF I let it on all the time? New week I will have a trip about 6 hrs driving, hope nothing happen during the travel, especially on the highway. Any suggestions?