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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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  • ivicaivica Posts: 34
    The muffler man actually inspected the exhaust earlier today and all they came up with was that the muffler was starting to go. In their written quote they show the muffler replacement and some gaskets. The rest of the exhaust is also stainless, I hope that most of the other components are ok and that the technician would have picked up on anything else at that time.
  • Hi
    I have only one key to my honda accord-v6. Can any one tell me,

    1. where to get or make the duplicate key
    2. how much time does it take
    3. cost.

    Honda Accord 2000 V6 4 Dr, key has remote unlock/lock feature and has a battery as well as the physical key for ignition and doors and dikey

    A single physical/metal key for all operations, lock unlock, dickey, panic

    I don't mind a duplicate physical only key too without remote feature (without remote lock/ unlock feature) which may be cheap I guess.

    Thank you
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,588
    well okay just a thought for you. Sounds like you're good to go. I always hate it when my car is on the rack, in pieces, and then we need something else that we don't have.

    MODERATOR

  • ivicaivica Posts: 34
    Thanks Mr. Shiftright.

    I placed the order today with Majestic Honda. About an hour later they emailed me indicating that there is a $75 charge when sales are made to Canadians. Apparently this covers duties and taxes. In the past Majestic was billed customs for additional delivery charges, duties and taxes.

    I called Majestic back because I don't believe that there are any duties on these parts (US made). Also the taxes are easily calculated and don't add up to $75.

    Apparently majestic does this to all Canadian orders. Has anyone else experienced this?

    Regards

    Ivica
  • I have a 1998 Honda Accord and I believe my anti-theft system cause my car to shut down. I cannot put the car into neutral and the car will not start. Does anyone know how to reset the system. Or has this happened to anyone before if so what did you do?
  • Hey all, Hopefully I am not the only one that is experencing this; my 2000 Accord has an issue (when the car is already warmed up), where it would start up, the rpm's would go to 2, fall back to zero, and then the car would shut off with the battery and oil lights on. Now I took it to the dealer but, as you guessed, the problem would not show itself. After a slew of diagnostic checks the dealer could find no issue. This began happening about 6 months ago it is very infrequent but nonetheless annoying as I would literally have to sit in the car and try starting it at 3-5min interval until it actually started (after sputtering like crazy).

    The funny part is that I took the car to get a NY inspection yesterday, after it passed I tried to start it up to leave but my car had other plans. The mechanic on duty said that I probably need a new distributor (but I believe my car does not have a distributor). The mechanic then held down the gas and idled the car at about 1.5 until the car could run on it's own. My parting gift for this was that now the check engine light is on....Arghhhhhh!

    Any ideas how to remedy this issue?

    I changed the spark plugs and air filter less than three weeks ago.
  • Something like this did happen to my Honda accord 2000 V6, last year, when check ed with mechanic he told it could be due to difference in winter and summer gas and some gas stations could still be selling remaining summer gas..but immediately after that we did 90000 miles check and still have not had that issue.

    car used to start and engine would stop before I change the gear.. :(
  • Thanks but I'm at 74K. I have no idea when the next maintenance is. My last trip to the dealer did not give me much confidence that they can resolve this.

    Anyone have any addl thoughts re this??
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    All I can suggest is to get the code read (check engine light). That may give an indication where to start. Next time it will not start, you could try removing a plug, to check for fuel and spark. I think you either have a bad ignition coil or a fuel pressure regulator problem. But that's only guessing, and changing parts based on guessing games can become very expensive. Good luck
  • willis3willis3 Posts: 76
    This is very odd, any suggestions...

    I have an 02 Accord, the car is in perfect shape, never been in an accident.

    A few weeks back, when I was unloading groceries, I found a lot of condensation of the underside of the trunk lid. Thinking that this was from the frozen food, didn't give much thought to this at the time.

    Another time when I opened the trunk, the entire trunk mat was wet, condensation all over the underside of the trunk lid, and water in the spare tire well. I blotted it up using a shammy.

    I have an extended warranty for my car - would this be covered?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    you'll have to do some sleuthing. some things i'd do:

    make sure the rubber gasket isn't torn anywhere around the perimeter of the trunk.

    i'd also make sure there isn't any built-up dirt / grime / leaves / pine straw resulting in blockage from the water moving freely in the channel where the gasket lies.

    make sure the trunk lid isn't mis-aligned.

    see if there is condensate in one of the rear light lenses.

    if you suspect the gasget / trunk-lid alignment, perhaps i might use some construction paper placed around on top of the gasket, hit the vehicle with a hose and see where the paper is wet on both sides of the gasket.
  • willis3willis3 Posts: 76
    Thanks for the tips.

    My guess is a leak in the rubber gasket, but with the amount of water accumulating, it would seem that I didn't have a the gasket at all.

    Last night, the car alarm kept going off and I determined it must be all water somehow telling the car the trunk is open. How do I know this?

    Go to lock the doors - I see the doors lock however the lights do not flash. Open and close trunk, hit the the door lock button - I get the visual indicators that the car is fully armed, press a second time and the horn honks.

    Wife got really upset waking up every hour to disarm the alarm. Left the doors unlocked last night.

    I'm hoping that Honda will fix this for me under my extended warranty, otherwise I'll be searching for the leak myself.
  • Anyone know of a website where I can purchase an OEM service manual. I tried Helminc.com but it only has the supplement (which I believe I need as well). Let me know.

    Thanks in advance
  • Here you go:

    http://www.motors.ebay.com/?_trksid=m37

    When you get there, under "Parts and Accessories" choose "Manuals & Literature." There's about 50,000 (literally) things listed, but there are various ways you can narrow the search way down. I've purchased several Accord dealer brochures there, and I've noticed there are always tons of owners manuals and service manuals for sale.

    If this link doesn't work right, just go to eBay's site and choose "Motors" to get to the same place. Good hunting.
  • jncarsjncars Posts: 13
    Helm inc. has it, You just have to click on Shop/Service Information and order the 1998-2002 Accord 2/4-door L4 service manual. Part number is 61S8400 ($70.00) with the ($40.00) V6 supplement for a total of $110.00. I'm lucky that I have the 4 cylinder and it will cost me $70.00.

    Jim
  • abuduabudu Posts: 2
    I'm in Memphis and I have a personal mechanic. He does timing belt replacement for $250.00. I thought Honda recommended changing the timing belt at 90,000 miles. I might be wrong but, that's when I got mine changed. I bought it used in 2002 so it might have already been changed.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    It depends on the model of your car, and as to what engine it has.

    My 1996 4-cyl requires a timing belt change at 90k miles, but my grandmother's 2002 (which would be the same as a 1998) requires it at 105k miles.
  • Over the past two weeks, when I start my car and try to turn the wheel, it is very difficult to turn and it feels like the power steering is not working correctly. As soon as I'm done backing out of my garage, everything is working great. Do you think I just need to add some power steering fluid?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,588
    Could need fluid but I suspect the power steering rack has problems. You might try flushing out the old fluid and if it has a filter replace that as well. Couldn't hurt.

    MODERATOR

  • Hi Everybody,

    I recently bought 2000 Honda Accord SE ULEV with 85K miles. I am third owner of the car.

    Everything has been going on great except two problems:
    1) Brake indicator on the dashboard remains on for about 10-12 mins after I start the car in the cold mornings. Later during the day, unless car is sitting in real cold, it does not come on. I searched this forum and figured that it is due to the cold the brake fluid contracts and float sinks lower than it is supposed to. For the safety, I checked brake fluid level is which is quite full and I haven't experienced much difference in the breaking of the car. Is there a way I can get rid of this problem without having to wait for engine to warm up and heat the master cylinder?

    2) My gas tank was getting real empty. I guess only a gallon or less was left. As I was driving towards gas station, hoping that the car would reach, the Check Engine Indicator Light came on. I immediately felt this could be due to sensor getting some bad gas as the tank was getting empty. I got the gas and tightened the cap. Later I checked the manual and it said that it could happen due to lose cap and it will go away after three driving trips. I went out and tightened the cap again. Three clicks. Now
    - What is meant by three driving trips?
    - Is there a way I can reset it ?
    - Do I need to take it to the mechanic?
    - Should I contact honda dealer or is it okay to show any mechanic?

    I tried searching forum for some satisfactory answer, but haven't come across yet.

    Thank you in advance for help.

    Regards,
    VJ
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    1) If your master cylinder cap has a rubber boot, it may be hanging down. Simply push it back up into the cap. This is unlikely to be your problem, since the light eventually goes off. I would check for leaks, and check that the brakes do not pull to one side or the other when applied. Bleeding the system may help also. Has the fluid ever been changed? If not it should be (every 3 years regardless of mileage).

    2) If the gas cap being loose was causing the Check engine light, it will go off on it's own, after a few times driving the car. If the cap was not loose, the light will continue to stay on, as long as the problem exists. If the light stays on after a few drives, the cap could be bad, or there could be air in the system (from running the tank low) or an air leak somewhere else. Hope everything works out.
  • Hi Elroy5
    Thanks for a quick reply.
    I will check for the a rubber boot in the cap. What do you mean by bleeding the system? Since I purchased the car just over two weeks ago, I am not sure about the break oil change. But they seem to function well without pulling to one side. The duration of light seems to be connected with ambient temperature. On a cold day with light snow it takes 10 mins or so, while once on a warm day it went off in just 2 mins!! What do you suspect? Also what do you mean by bleeding the system?

    2)I will check the cap and report again.

    I really don't want to invest any money now. Hopefully things get solved by themselves.

    Thanks
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Brake fluid absorbs moisture, and gets dirty quickly. If the fluid has moisture in it, the cold temperatures may be causing the light. Look at the fluid. Can you see through it? Brake fluid is almost clear in color, so if the fluid is dark it probably needs to be changed. I would change the fluid, and use Honda fluid only, then bleed the system until all the old fluid is out. You may need a mechanic to do this for you, because from reading your posts it doesn't sound like you have much experience working on cars. ;) Ask around at a few different shops for a price to change the fluid. It should not cost very much. It's a simple operation for someone who's done it before. Brakes are not something you can let go, or the expense will only grow larger while you wait. Good luck with the car :D
  • Hi Elroy5,
    You're right! I haven't worked with cars so far. But I can always learn. Thinking of taking up volunteer work at Honda Dealership ;) !!

    I checked the cap of the brake fluid reservoir under the hood,
    1)The cap was lose. So tightened it.
    2) The fluid is not clear, it is kind of dark. So it seems to have absorbed moisture or it might be time to change the brake fluid.
    3)For CEL, when I opened the cap yesterday, it kinda hissed as if pressurized vapor escaped the hole. I tightened it but CEL still glows. The CEL light has come on suddenly, when my tank was really low. So I like to think that it might be just trapped air.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Here's a link on bleeding the brakes. To change the fluid though, you would have to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir (or as much as you can get out), and put all new fluid in before the bleeding process. Then bleed the brakes until all clean/new fluid comes out. Have a ball.
    http://syclone.motocrew.com/CG5/brakebleed.htm
  • mentiyamentiya Posts: 17
    I have a 98 Accord and it has been great. Just recently though, my indicator lamp came on and so I took out my manual to investigate a possible problem. I called Honda and took it in and the diagnostic test proved to be my catalytic converter. However, I was told that I have quite a bit of time before replacing it. Okay that is fine, but also I am noticing a vibration when I first start the car and sometimes when it is idling. I am told that I could have a bad motor mount. Is there any connection between the catalytic converter and the vibration that I am feeling. If I were to replace the bad motor mount (whichever one it is) I am wondering if that is the cure for the vibration? Thank you to whoever may read this and respond with a little more insight.
  • ivicaivica Posts: 34
    I have the same problem. Check out these posts

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.ee9949a?displayRecent

    check post 1514.

    My catalytic converter is going as well, I just purchased all of the parts from Majestic Honda, waiting delivery this week.

    My honda is a 98 also.

    Cheers.
  • Hi Elroy5,
    I have an interesting update. This morning after a whole freezing night I started the car and brake light was as usual on. But I immediately turned the car off (in 30 sec), I opened the Brake Fluid Reservoir Cap to see the color of the fluid. It was of amber color and I could see the bottom of the reservoir (it was that clear). Also there was a cylindrical piece of white rubber (I think you called it rubber boot) attached to the cap of brake fluid reservoir. I moved it up all the way near the cap. Though it didnt stay put. I just locked the cap on and guess what? the brake light did not turn on at all. Generally, it will remain on for 10-12 mins when I start the car after keeping it over night.

    What do you suggest? BTW thanks for the link. I am going to get the car checked and serviced as soon as I get the salary.

    Thanks,
    VJ
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If the sagging boot on the cap is causing the light, it will not create a problem with the brakes, so you have some choices. Ignore the light, fix the boot somehow, or replace it. Not a big deal, but if the brake fluid is more than 3 years old, I would change it, whenever you have the means. Happy Hondaing. :D
  • jncarsjncars Posts: 13
    The heater blower doesn't blow air to the windshieldt but it seems to work everywhere else. What could be the problem?

    Thanks, Jim
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