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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair



  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,664
    Filters are OEM on many cars. I'd say either get a filter or be sure to clean out the fluid every 30K or so with a turkey baster and replace it.

    Yeah I was thinking if the lines are off they can be cleaned and inspected. $100 isn't chickenfeed for a hose.

    I guess bottom line would be how hard it would be to replace the hoses at another time. If they are a real pain to get at, then maybe now's the time, but if it's just a matter of going on a lift and unscrewing two fittings, then if the hoses look good now, you might wait.

    On some cars that are prone to hose bursting I'd say do it but I'm not aware that your car is susceptible.
  • rogerziprogerzip Posts: 1
    I own a 1999 honda accord with 4 cyl. I recently had a failure of my fuel pressure regulator. This has been replaced. However highway fuel economy has dropped from 34 to 28 mpg. Car also feels a little sluggish. Honda dealer has not been able to diagnose problem. Have replaced fuel injectors,plugs,air filter and did a 120K check up. All to no avail. I get a intermittent check engine light that Honda can not find cause for? Any ideas as to what is going on here?
  • alvan1alvan1 Posts: 1
    I am coming up on 105,000 miles and have been advised by my dealer to get a new timing belt. Along with it he advises replacing the other main belts and the water pump. It's all going to cost about $850. Is that a reasonable price for the procedure? It sounds bloody expensive to me; I imagine there's quite a mark-up on those belts. I'd appreciate any input. Thanks!
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    It's not the belt that cost so much, it's the labor to change it. $850 seems like a lot, but you don't want some half [non-permissible content removed] mechanic doing this kind of work. So you have to be careful who you pick to do the job. $650 is about as low as an experienced mechanic will go, but you may have to shop around to get that price. Then you have to make sure they are not charging less, because they are changing less parts. Some will charge less, but not change the water pump.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Maybe the Oxygen sensor?
  • jeneyjeney Posts: 9
    I checked my vin number and my Honda Accord EX 2001 is covered under the Honda lawsuit. My transmission shifts very roughly. I have 57,000 miles on the car. If I bring it to the dealer will they replace the transmission. Will it cost me anything - labor, parts, etc. Please let me know what you think
  • lletournlletourn Posts: 19
    If they replace the transmission under the extended warranty there will be no cost to you.

    My understanding is that it won't cost the dealer anything either since Honda reimburses them for recalls, so as long as they feel it qualifies you shouldn't have any problems.

    It seems like the only potential costs you could run into are if the issue isn't related to the recall/extended warranty or if the dealer attempts to charge you a fee to look at the issue. The dealer near me tries to pull this w/ me for all warrantied items (seat belts causing SRS light and transmission), but when I speak to a supervisor they waive it.

    Good luck.
  • nielsniels Posts: 2
    My 1998 Honda Accord EX V6 idles very low when it warms up, almost as if it will stall at any moment (it never does though). Also in neutral, the it will only go up to 4500 rpm and then run very rough. Check engine is also on. Any suggestions? :( Thanks!!
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Go to Autozone (or Advance) and get them to retrieve the trouble code(s) for you (they do that for free). The code will give you a better idea where the problem is.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I would not take my car above 4,000 RPM before it got fully warmed up, for fear of damaging it. The roughness may be related to the fact that the engine is cold (if in fact it's cold when you are revving in neutral).

    Why are you revving in neutral again? :)
  • Hi,

    I have a 1999 Honda Accord EX V6 which I purchased 2 years ago (I am the second owner and I keep up regular maintenance). Presently, I have almost 95,000 miles on it.

    Today, almost all of the dash indicator lamps came on: malfunction indicator lamp (my mechanic told me that is due to the ERG recall, I've had problems with this for a while), the brake lamp, battery light, and door ajar light suddenly came on simultaneously and will not shut off. The car's engine also began making a loud grumbling/humming noise.

    Does anyone have any clue what is causing this? I have never heard of anything like this. THANK YOU for any help!
  • normkolnormkol Posts: 134
    I know this is probably too late, but there is a TSB on this issue: 01-031.

    The ECM/PCM can set a false P1149 code, which is the O2 sensor.

    I found this out after I bought and installed a new O2 sensor. The front one is quite easy to change, you might want to consider saving money by doing it yourself, if you end up doing it.
  • normkolnormkol Posts: 134
    Often a sign of a faulty alternator. Have it checked.
  • nielsniels Posts: 2
    The car was hot when I went up to 4000 RPM, I did it to see how it would respond. I also found out that it only has this (RPM) problem when the car is not in gear, in drive it goes up to normal rpm. Could have something to do with a fuel filter?
    I am going to Autozone to get them to pull the code.

  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Hmm. Not having revved in neutral before (not particularly good for the car to do so), I can't say I know why it would do that. I don't know for sure, but it would seem to me a fuel filter wouldn't change in function in neutral versus drive.

    Going to autozone is likely your first and best choice.
  • therivertheriver Posts: 67
    Has anybody had to replace any front end stuff on 02 accord. I have a thumping/clunking over bumps. Dealer has said it is lots of things Links, bushings, Upper ball joints, and Upper control arms. Car only has 60K. Any known issues on any of these areas.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Could be any one, or maybe even two of those things. I would guess either bushings or ball joints. But, unless you've been driving in death valley, I doubt they could all be bad. Maybe you need a second opinion.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    another possibility: strut / strut tower interface (strut is loose because of weld burrs). it's happened on ODYs, MDXs, I presume it can happen on Accords too.
  • therivertheriver Posts: 67
    thanks. I'll keep an eye on it and do 2nd opinion. No unusual roads - fully paved. I was just wondering if there were any particular known issues in these areas. All my searches turned up negative so I suspect they were trying to pull a fast one.

  • kaioteskaiotes Posts: 3
    I need to change some fluids and i would like to know the capacity of the following items. My car manual does not state the amount and i can't seem to locate this info, my mechanic and dealers all are giving me different numbers.

    I have a 98 accord v6

    AT transmission 7.6qt (pls confirm)
    Coolant 1.98 Gal (pls confirm)
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