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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • willis3willis3 Posts: 76
    Leak is fixed.

    The car was at the dealership for six days. They found the leak in the sunroof. They said the drain tube on the rear passenger side was not installed properly, and it was draining into the rear cabin. They found the trunk wet as well as underneath the rear seats.

    All of this was fixed, covered under warranty. They said it was probably not installed properly from the beginning. I guess I never discovered this problem because the car was either covered or in the garage.
  • Hi Elroy5,
    It seems that the sagging boot is the main problem. Everytime, I pull it up close to the cap, the break indicator gets turned off!

    Plus guess what? My check engine light went off by itself. I did check if the lamp was working or not, by observing that the light glows when I start the car.

    Low Fuel Indicator: I have never seen this indicator lighting even when car starts. What do you suspect? A burnt lamp?

    Odometer light doesn't work either. I again suspect burnt lap.

    Let me know your opinions!

    Thanks,
    VJ :)
  • kbainkbain Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Honda Accord Coupe LX; when driving at various speeds the car stalls (feels like the engine is being choked off from the gas); after pulling off the road, shutting everything off and waiting less than 60 seconds, the car will restart. I had the ignition switch replaced at my local Honda dealership last week and was not 3 miles from the dealership when the car stalled again. The stalling occurs intermittenty (not everytime it is driven); in all outdoor temperatures; with tank full or partially full; using cruise control or not. Any ideas?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    idle relearn procedure perhaps?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Low Fuel Indicator: I have never seen this indicator lighting even when car starts. What do you suspect? A burnt lamp?

    This shouldn't illuminate, if I recall correctly. I'm positive my 1996 Accord doesn't illuminate the Low Fuel Light when cranking, and I'm also pretty positive my grandmother's 2002 Accord doesn't light up upon startup (I am who drives her car the most).

    I suspect you just don't let your fuel get low enough to set it off, and that's definitely ok. :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Plus guess what? My check engine light went off by itself. I did check if the lamp was working or not, by observing that the light glows when I start the car.

    My guess is it was the gas cap causing the CEL. Glad it went out. :D

    Low Fuel Indicator: I have never seen this indicator lighting even when car starts. What do you suspect? A burnt lamp?


    I remember thinking my LFI was out on my 92 Accord, but finally one day I let the fuel get low enough, and sure enough it still worked. :surprise: I wouldn't run the car out of gas, trying to make the light come on. ;)

    Odometer light doesn't work either. I again suspect burnt lap.


    If the numbers are still there, and the odometer is still working, I certainly wouldn't take the dash apart, just for that light.
  • obi3iceobi3ice Posts: 16
    Am new on the forum. I have a honda accord 1998 model with 110k mileage. have been drivin the car well ever since i bought it last year june. But of recent i noticed a sharp sound in front of the front driver's wheel every time i want to move. It scares me somrtimes but when on a free way doing 100miles, every thing's stable and smooth... Every time i pull to a stop and move, i hear that sharp sound sometimes.. Can anyone help me out on what that sound might be so i can take it in for repairs....
    Again, i changed the wheels to alloy and the tires to fat ones (225 R15) and every time i enter a bump, the left bac tire touches the underneath. Could this b the shocks or the springs... I would be glad if anyone hints me on the solution to these problems.
    Obi3ice
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,956
    I'm almost sure your tires is hitting the wheel well. I bet if you lifted the car you'd see where it's hitting.

    As for the "sharp sound", that's just not definite enough a description to say anything about it.

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  • obi3iceobi3ice Posts: 16
    So what can i do to that back tire to stop hitting the wheel and for that sharp sound, it happens sometimes when i want to move with gear 1. Its like i can feel it on my clutch pad when i release the clutch..like its right infront of me under the left steering shaft...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,956
    Well if your tire is too big for the car, there's not much you can do. You could identify where it's hitting and...I don't know...maybe spacer the wheel to the outside if the interference is on the inside. But if it's up top, maybe stiffer struts and springs? If it's on the outside fender, you'll have to cut it for fender flares. It all depends how much it's hitting. First off find out where it hits.

    Do you mean a chirping sound, like a bird? That could be a pilot bushing in the flywheel (where the transmission shaft plugs in). A good mechanic could identify a pilot bushing noise right away.

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  • ron_mron_m Posts: 188
    I have a 98 Accord and it has been great. Just recently though, my indicator lamp came on and so I took out my manual to investigate a possible problem. I called Honda and took it in and the diagnostic test proved to be my catalytic converter. However, I was told that I have quite a bit of time before replacing it. Okay that is fine, but also I am noticing a vibration when I first start the car and sometimes when it is idling. I am told that I could have a bad motor mount. Is there any connection between the catalytic converter and the vibration that I am feeling. If I were to replace the bad motor mount (whichever one it is) I am wondering if that is the cure for the vibration? Thank you to whoever may read this and respond with a little more insight.

    The 1998-2002 generation Accords had a well documented problem with the catalytic converters giving problems prematurely. I had to replace mine on my 1998 a couple of years ago. The vibration that you are experiencing isn't related to the catalytic converter. Traditionally, bad motor mounts are one of the few issues that Honda has had regular problems with across vehicle platforms. I've seen this with both Civics and Accords dating back to 1989 models. Fortunately for you it really isn't that big of a deal to have it replaced. I would have the bad motor mount replaced as soon as possible though--as a bad motor mount can cause unwanted additional stresses on other engine components due to the increased vibration that it introduces.
  • obi3iceobi3ice Posts: 16
    ok. will let d mechanic check it out.. But can i still use it for long distances? What will be the cause if not fixed on time? Reply needed urgently. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,956
    I couldn't say without hearing it. Some noises--no problem; other noises, BIG problem.

    Sorry :(

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  • kbainkbain Posts: 2
    Has anyone changed any dish board lights and is this a job the weekend mach can do at home?
  • I have over 100,000 miles on my Honda, I want to change the plugs, how do I reset the computer so my fuel isn't running rich?
  • krichkrich Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 coupe v6. recently had a crank no start issue. I pulled the 15amp fuel pump fuse in the pass. compartment and check ok. reinstalled fuse and car started just fine. It has 108k and have had no problems ever with this car. any suggestions on possible common problems?
  • I have a 2002 Accord (133K miles) with the original front brake pads. I replaced the rear pads @ 68K miles. At my last oil change the service advisor told me the front and rear pads are at 4mm/.
    Does anyone know how many miles I have left before I need to replace the front pads considering my driving is 90% highway? And do you recommend replacing them now?

    Thanks in advance for your comments,
  • krichkrich Posts: 3
    4mm is the starting point for pad replacement, you probaly have at least 5000 miles left
  • 110,000kn, 4cyl auto
    Oil is suddenly disappearing from this vehicle at a rate of approx. 3/4 liter per 1500kms. It has been inspected by a Honda dealer and there was no evidence of a leak under the vehicle. A strict oil consumption test was performed which yielded the figures above. A drive clean (emissions) test was performed showing zero hydrocarbons. Is it possible for the vehicle to burn this much oil and pass an emissions test with zero HC?
  • Thanks for the quick reply. is 4mm/10 is equivalent to 4/32 seconds of an inch? I assume the minimum is 2/32" for most cars.
  • I talked to the service advisor today and he was baffled tyat I never changed the front brake pads at 133K, because I told him I still have the original pads!!!

    Does anyone has had their front brake pads last that long ? above 130K + miles?

    Just curious :)
  • krichkrich Posts: 3
    on your first question yes 4mm is very close to 4/32. next yes I have 108k on my front pads and they have plenty on wear left.
  • Thanks [krish] for your response. Glad you clarified the wear thickness. I thought that 4mm = 4/32" or 32 seconds of an inch,whatever the correct terminology is.
  • vre3vre3 Posts: 1
    I was wondering if anyone with 2000 four cylinder LX has experienced a problem where the engine cranks with no problems, however the engine does not start. The battery is new, and the wires, cap and rotor were replaced a month ago the last time I had this problem. A month ago I had the car towed to the dealer service due to this problem and of course the car started with no problem as soon as it was rolled off the flatbed. At that time, the service tech recommended that the original wires, cap and rotor be replaced as a possible cause, but of course, he made no guarantees as he did not experience the problem, and therefore couldn't properly diagnose the situation. I can tell you that on the three occasions in the last year when I had this problem, it was either snowing or raining. Are there other parts in the ignition system besides wires, cap and rotor that are susceptible to moisture?
    If so, are any of these other parts easy for me to replace myself?
    Thanks for your help.
    vre3
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    vre3
    First, you need to find out what is missing. Spark at the plugs, or fuel in the cylinders. After that has been determined, testing would begin. Can you remove a spark plug?
  • ivicaivica Posts: 34
    I have a 98 Accord LX with 260,000 kms. I have the original rear shoes and drums. the shoes are getting to the point of needing replacement. I measured the drum diameter and it is still good with about 1- 1.5 mm left. The drums wear surface is quite smooth with little to no roughness. Should I consider new drums as well?

    What factors should be considered besides being on size.

    Regards
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,956
    Almost sounds like they were hardly doing their work at all. I guess if you're satisfied with the way the car stops and if the drums aren't showing signs of overheating, then you're okay. But I'm wondering if there isn't some front/rear brake bias issue. Do you chew up front brakes fairly quickly?

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  • ivicaivica Posts: 34
    No. I get good brake wear, I'm pretty easy on my brakes. I tend to coast and time my lights and I don't tail gate. It's a rare occassion that I brake hard.

    My first pads lasted 165,000 kms and I changed my front rotors at 225,000 kms.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,956
    Okay then fair enough. I'd keep the drums as long as they are within spec and show no scoring or burning.

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