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My aunt had a 2000 Odyssey with a sticky throttle pedal. She had it "adjusted", whatever that means. It did the trick, though, and was much smoother to operate. Her condition was not alleviating itself after 1-2 miles; it did it constantly until getting fixed.
I think, am not sure, that there is a rear motor mount or transmission mount that has a vacumn line that goes to it. Not totally sure about this, or exactly how it works, but this might be checked, including the rubber lines to it for cracks, etc.
how many miles? new plug time?
see if there is an idle relearn procedure for the vehicle following a change of the battery for example.
why don't you take it to an independant for a second opinion?
i might try running a can of injector cleaner on my next full tank of gas.
While I think a diagnose is the only way to identify the problem, the dealer charges to the roof. So I am trying to find a local mechanic (inde or chain store). However, I am a little skeptical about the capability of most shops since I feel it's more about electrical problem than actually mechanical, and I don't know how much case these shops have dealt with daily. I have taken the car to a local shop, who took apart both doors but couldn't figure out the problem. They did not charge me because I know them personally. I usually take the car to Precision Auto Care for maintenance, but not sure whether they can handle this particular case.
Any recommendations (I live in San Jose, CA).
thanks.
I had the same problem and the my Honda Mechanic in California cleaned this up and problem has never come back. My problem started at about 36K miles. One of the things to keep in mind is to use those Injector cleaner on a regular basis and get the fuel system cleaned once a year. Keeps the Hoonda running real nice. Hope the tip work.. You don't need to live with this problem.
I got the same run around for about 8 months. I was driving to Las Vegas when my Engine light came on. I took it to the Dealer and they analysed the computer error to be related to the Transmission. However the car drove normal except the gears shifted a little rough. They stated that I had a bad transmission and needed to replace it costing $2500.00. :confuse: I thought this was ridiculous. I took it to Aamco they checked and suggested that my Transmission Oil might not have been the right one. I remembered taking my car to Jiffy Lube a few weeks prior and they did my transmission service and replace the fluid. Apparently, they put the wrong fluid. As soon as I got the Aamco guys to replace my Fluid the Engine light cleared and the car was back to normal. Haven't had any issues with it again for more then a year. The Honda's use a specific type of Transmission fluid that works well. You put anything else and the tranny complains. Now I only get proper guys to service the tranny. If you are having leaks get it fixed and use the right Tranny fluid. In general the Honda's and Acuras' have a positive transmission and so they are not as smooth as the Toyotas' and GMs'. They just shift a little rough then other cars and this is normal. I hope this helps -Good luck.
Then I cracked the adjust screw 1/4 turn in. Problem fixed.
No sticking what so ever. Wife very happy. This may be frowned upon my Honda techs as this screw has paint on it and apparently is not to be adjusted. Its a 7 mm.
Thanks for thinking on this!
Last week I traded it in for a '06 Odyssey.
On a similar note, can someone tell me if the drum brakes (on my 96 LX)have this same squeak/grind feature when the shoes are nearly worn out?
If you think the emergency brake is too tight, jack up the car at that corner and give the wheel a spin, it should spin freely if the brake is off.
Mrbill
Sidenote: Please remove all caps...most people interpret caps-lock being on as yelling. Honest mistake, but using regular font makes posts more easily legible.
I am getting tired of this routine - is there something the gurus on this forum can suggest...Is it a good idea if I buy a can of fix-a-flat and try to seal/plug fine holes? Is there something that I can do before ponying up money for new tires? I live like 8 miles from work and that is all the driving pretty much. Any help appreciated.
Thanks,
I would be a little nervous if it's not rim leaks, if its something that in the tires, it could work it's way out (or in) and then your slow leak could turn into a fast leak.
Fix a flat may work OK on rim leaks, but it may not work if you have a bigger problem.
Mrbill
i bet her fix ended up costing her a lot more money than she would have spent if she drove the vehicle across the street to a station that does repairs.
the anecdote is pertinent to your situation...
if your tires cannot pass the "Lincoln Head" penny test, and/or you have areas which are actually bald, your only option in my opinion is to get a new set of tires.
the material in a can of "fix it" (or what ever) will probably not seek the leak if it is not rapid enough, but I am not sure of this. however, fixing a tire like this from the inside this way? no, i think it's going to throw the balance of the tire off at the very least. i've heard, i don't know if it's true that a can of the stuff will render a tire with a hole, potentially unfixable or problematic to fix, because of what it does to the inside of the tire. i'm not sure about that either.
hey - this is free advice.
anyway, there are some decent tires you could purchase through SAM'S or WALMART. you don't have to pay a fortune, but i realize overall, four tires can be expensive.
if your tire / tread depth is very shallow, i believe the tire's ability to push rain water away while maintaining contact with the road surface will be greatly diminished.
also a slow leak now, could become a rapid tire pressure leak and loss when at speed and when the tire is warm. it's hard to predict what will happen.
but anyway, if you were to loose a tire at high speed, you can loose control of the vehicle which puts you and others in harms way.
the recommendation you received to your situation was probably the best one.
thanks for all the responses. I live in MA and definitely salt is a factor.
The sidewalls are perfect, there are no cracks and show wear symptomatic of underinflated tires(I found this after googling)...there is not a single crack on the tires, but suspect the tires may be ones whcih had flats a while back(2 tires had flats in the last 2 years).
I want to be better informed before going to a tire station...I assumed the visit to Midas would atleast help me to push the tires to the back and get the good ones from the back to the front...this didnt happen. I also hoped that he would check for leaks on the tires instead he played smart and said that it WAS DEFINITELY due to tire wear...
any ideas?
is it the Maintenance Reminder Light that is blinking? have you read your owners manual?
You can check for leaks by mixing some dish soap and water and put in a spray bottle.
Your probably cheaper off in the long run to bite the bullet now and have the new tires put on. They should have delt with rim leaks already and will know how to deal with it.
Mrbill
However a blinking Check Engine Light? I've never heard of it blinking... But read on.
In my 2002 owners manual (by the way, the 2002 Accord owners manual can be downloaded from Honda's Owner's Link web-site if you register, perhaps your's as well), the "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" or the "CEL" or "Check Engine Light" (has a picture of a little engine with the word "CHECK" in it) is the indicator in the tachometer display above the battery lamp.
The "Maintenance Required" or "Maintenance Reminder" light (the reminder for scheduled service) is also on the tachometer display but is the one above the Low Oil Pressure Lamp.
Now then, consulting my manual, the malfunction indicator comes on when you start your car and is supposed to go off. I think all the indicators are supposed to do this so you know they are all working.
If it comes on and stays steady you have a problem that should be immediately attended to by a service shop.
Here's the interesting part I found in my manual which I didn't know. There is on-board diagnostics used by emissions testing services to know if your car is running properly or there is an emissions problem. Before you can have an emissions testing service check your vehicle, the system must have certain readiness codes set in it's memory - essentially telling the emissions tester, the data contained in the computer is valid for you to upload and inspect.
Quoting from the manual: "If you car's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, these codes are erased. It takes several days of driving under various conditions to set the codes again. If possible, do not take your car for a state emissions test until the readiness codes are set. To check if they are set, turn the ignition on (II) but do not start the engine. The Malfunction Indicator Lap will come on for 20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are set. If it blinks 5 times, the readiness codes are not set."
So can you provide more details as to what is happening? Maybe then we can provide better guidance to you.
Take a deep breath - I'm still thinking what you are seeing is the maintenance reminder (the not so critical one... which just means change your oil and have the car's other systems looked over during regular service).
If that is the light which is blinking (and as I recall it blinks 3 times when you are comming up on a scheduled maintenance interval), then you reset it by pushing in on the trip odometer reset button and holding, then turning the car just to the accessories position and only letting go when the light goes out.
Go ahead and register the vehicle on Honda's Owner Link, then download the 2002 .pdf file of the owner's manual for your car.
I hope I've helped.
Do alloy wheels make the rim free of salt attacking them, curious? My accord has alloy wheels.
Mrbill
i remember scraping a curb with my jetta a decade ago (no wait - actually two...oh my) and being quite surprised the material underneath wasn't the same as the top layer.
also, if you live in a state notorious for pot-holes, bent rims are something to consider. i remember a replacement rim for my jetta was really expensive.