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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Wow, arent we brave. Going from a Honda to a first year GM product. Enjoy the resale value on your Accord, b/c you won't have nearly that with a Saturn.

    My aunt had a 2000 Odyssey with a sticky throttle pedal. She had it "adjusted", whatever that means. It did the trick, though, and was much smoother to operate. Her condition was not alleviating itself after 1-2 miles; it did it constantly until getting fixed.
  • duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    I agree with the resale value difference - our Accord has been spectacular in that area, and I am also a little worried about going back to GM especially for the first year model. But, I figured that if things go badly, I'll probably only be out about $5K, so that's not bad. Her second choice was a $48K Audi TT, so I'm loving the price difference. Besides, I've been too responsible for too long, its time to embrace impracticality...
  • carowner3carowner3 Member Posts: 3
    My son's 2001 Accord V6 (102K miles) transmission went as he returned to school in MA (we live in NJ 200 miles away). The original warranty was 36K miles that Honda had extended to 100K miles on this vehicle. My son brought the car to AAMCO and they quoted $2300 plus "hard parts" to repair (not new) and used every high pressure sales tactic to get me to buy including telling me he called Honda and they do not have any transmissions. I had my son take car (slowly) to local Honda dealer for 2nd opinion knowing that AAMCO said "all bets are off if you take the car back". The Honda service manager said he would look at it and see what he could do. Needless to say Honda offered to replace complete trans with a NEW one for no charge except $550 labor and provided me with 3yr and 36K mile extended warranty for no charge. I was impressed by Honda's flexibility and honoring a warranty that was actually expired. Thank You to Honda for saving me about $2000!
  • idlevibrationsidlevibrations Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a used 2002 honda accord SE automatic 4cyl and have been experiencing moderate to extreme vibrations from the engine at idle. I had a diagnostic on the engine and it was with-in manufc. spec. I explained the symptoms to two independent mechanics and they both stated that this is typical for this particular car. They mentioned that the engine is designed to run so lean at idle that it almost turns its self off. I truly believe the vibrations are too strong. I asked one mechanic to look at the engine mounts and he stated keep your money there is nothing wrong with the car. Is this performance normal.
  • bolivarbolivar Member Posts: 2,316
    Well, it's a 4 cylinder, and they do not idle smoothly.

    I think, am not sure, that there is a rear motor mount or transmission mount that has a vacumn line that goes to it. Not totally sure about this, or exactly how it works, but this might be checked, including the rubber lines to it for cracks, etc.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    agree that the engine mounts / adjustment could be culprit. i have an '02 I4 Accord. it's true that it does not idle as smoothly as my '03 V6 Odyssey, but i would not say the vibration is excessive.

    how many miles? new plug time?

    see if there is an idle relearn procedure for the vehicle following a change of the battery for example.

    why don't you take it to an independant for a second opinion?

    i might try running a can of injector cleaner on my next full tank of gas.
  • 330blast330blast Member Posts: 49
    I have a 1999 Accord LX (4-cly, 4 door) with 78000 miles. The front driver and rear passenger doors are not responding to the auto door lock button anymore. I have taken it to two dealers, one said the actuater of both doors need to be replace, the other told me that they had to go through diagnoses.
    While I think a diagnose is the only way to identify the problem, the dealer charges to the roof. So I am trying to find a local mechanic (inde or chain store). However, I am a little skeptical about the capability of most shops since I feel it's more about electrical problem than actually mechanical, and I don't know how much case these shops have dealt with daily. I have taken the car to a local shop, who took apart both doors but couldn't figure out the problem. They did not charge me because I know them personally. I usually take the car to Precision Auto Care for maintenance, but not sure whether they can handle this particular case.

    Any recommendations (I live in San Jose, CA).

    thanks.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    All I can do is give you a ballpark figure I was quoted to replace the door-lock actuator in my 1996 LX Accord on the rear passenger-side door. The estimate was $200-$220. I can reach and unlock it for that much cash, especially when the car is almost 11 years old with 160k miles. I don't carry passengers in the rear that often, though, so others may feel differently.
  • brut4orcebrut4orce Member Posts: 7
    The Sticking Accelerator is caused by a dirty Throttle Body. You need to get a mechanic to clean this out. Carbon & gummy residue accumulates in this area and causes the accelerator to stick. Especially first thing in the morning or if the car is cold.
    I had the same problem and the my Honda Mechanic in California cleaned this up and problem has never come back. My problem started at about 36K miles. One of the things to keep in mind is to use those Injector cleaner on a regular basis and get the fuel system cleaned once a year. Keeps the Hoonda running real nice. Hope the tip work.. You don't need to live with this problem.
  • brut4orcebrut4orce Member Posts: 7
    I have a 99 Honda Accord Four door. I am having the same problem with two my doors. :lemon: Both front and rear Passenger side doors. The locks do not unlock automatically. The damn Actuators cost a crazy bunch. I hear that this is a common problem with a lot of Honda Accords. My friend's Honda Accord had the same problem. We just open it manually now. The car is 6 years old and I am not about spend $700.00 (Labour and Parts) to fix this... That's what the Honda Dealer Quoted me. :mad:
  • alrjalrj Member Posts: 11
    i have a 99 ex-l automatic (108,000 mi) and am starting to notice when accelerating and getting to about second gear the car begins to vibrate for about a second or two and then accelerates as normal. the vibration isnt bad and it doesn't do it if i acclerate slowly. i will be trading it in the next year or two for the eighth generation, but would like to see about this problem i'm having. has anyone else experince this or have answers? :confuse:
  • brut4orcebrut4orce Member Posts: 7
    Hey Bud,
    I got the same run around for about 8 months. :( I was driving to Las Vegas when my Engine light came on. I took it to the Dealer and they analysed the computer error to be related to the Transmission. However the car drove normal except the gears shifted a little rough. They stated that I had a bad transmission and needed to replace it costing $2500.00. :confuse: I thought this was ridiculous. I took it to Aamco they checked and suggested that my Transmission Oil might not have been the right one. I remembered taking my car to Jiffy Lube a few weeks prior and they did my transmission service and replace the fluid. Apparently, they put the wrong fluid. As soon as I got the Aamco guys to replace my Fluid the Engine light cleared and the car was back to normal. Haven't had any issues with it again for more then a year. :) The Honda's use a specific type of Transmission fluid that works well. You put anything else and the tranny complains. Now I only get proper guys to service the tranny. If you are having leaks get it fixed and use the right Tranny fluid. In general the Honda's and Acuras' have a positive transmission and so they are not as smooth as the Toyotas' and GMs'. They just shift a little rough then other cars and this is normal. I hope this helps -Good luck.
  • brut4orcebrut4orce Member Posts: 7
    Unless you live in the desert as I did with extreme temperatures and dusty conditions or the Canadian Tundra with frigid cold temperatures, I think generally every one falls in the Normal Categotory. The stop and go that most folks encounter would not constitute as severe. For Stop and go situation I would just make sure engine oil is changed more often or use the high mileage Full Synthetic oils that would last longer intervals. Keep your Injectors and Fuel and Air flow systems clean. As for Timing belts these I would suggest to change around 80K, unless you really beat up on your car and burn the rubber on street races :sick: where I would recommend a sooner interval. In that case everything may need replacing at a sooner interval.. :)
  • gzpetegzpete Member Posts: 1
    We have a 2000 accord coupe also and had a problem with the sticking accelerator. In the morning with a cold engine, we would actually spin the tires on our gravel drive after the accellerator would finally "unstick". My wife was not happy. I had lubed everything and was ready to take it to the Honda dealer, which is what I would advise. BUT, in checking further, there was no binding in the linkage or gumming. If I would pull on the throttle cable where it hooks to the throttle, it felt as if a magnet was holding the throttle closed. As soon as it would release, it was as smooth as silk. I held a small shim (spark plug gap tool) under the adjust screw that limits closing of the throttle. WALLA!! No sticking.
    Then I cracked the adjust screw 1/4 turn in. Problem fixed.
    No sticking what so ever. Wife very happy. This may be frowned upon my Honda techs as this screw has paint on it and apparently is not to be adjusted. Its a 7 mm.
  • sanchez0561sanchez0561 Member Posts: 9
    It wasn't blowing as cold as before, only when I drove for a while non-stop, so I decided to check the freon level. It read a little less than 25 so I added some. Now it works in reverse. It cools on idle and blows hot while driving. Has anyone had this prob before and have it now? :confuse:
  • duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    That's great! Thanks for the info!
  • msp1013msp1013 Member Posts: 2
    I just had my Automatic transmission rebuilt in my 2000 Honda, and the oil changed. Now my engine smells bad like oil or fluid's leaked all over my engine and the odor is so strong I can't put my window down. An :surprise: y suggestions to get rid of the smell. I want to able to enjoy fresh AIR!! And help would be great. Thanks!!
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    take it on a few long drives with the air on "recirc" until the spilled fluids have burned off the hot metal parts. of course check to be sure you aren't loosing and fluids between drives. ;)
  • psouzekpsouzek Member Posts: 1
    My 2002 Accord SE acts like it wants to die when I really punch it, from a stand still. (about 1 in 8 or 10 times, or so.) Further, the transmission is shifting rough, especially w/ the A/C on. Can these 2 problems possible be related? Anyone have an idea on either? Tranny fluid just replaced 6 months ago, car only has 48,000 on it. Car has been shifting rough for about a year, changing the fluid improved this some, but still noticably rough. Car dying started w/in the last month.

    Thanks for thinking on this!
  • lauriemlauriem Member Posts: 1
    Hi, Just wondering how you came out with your transmission? My 98 Accord transmission just went out on me at only 66,000 miles. I'm not happy!
  • duperduper Member Posts: 127
    I had a 2001 Accord LX bought new and at 44k, it would rev up and not shift to 2nd gear when it was cold. One time the D flashed and it was going really slow until I stopped, turned off the engine and started again. It got better after driving a little and warmed up. A friend (a Honda mechanic) said it's under warranty.

    Last week I traded it in for a '06 Odyssey.
  • bimmer4mebimmer4me Member Posts: 266
    Can someone tell me what size fuel tank I have in my 99 Accord sedan? I can't find it anywhere in the manual.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    Since 1990, fuel tanks in all Accords have been 17.1 US Gallons, all the way to the current 2006 Accords. Hope this helps!
  • bimmer4mebimmer4me Member Posts: 266
    thanks!
  • collier2collier2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX, 6-cylinder. When I back up my rear wheels have been making a horrible squeaking/whining noise. Also, when I am moving slowly in drive (up to 30 mph) squealing occurs when my foot is off the brake. The brake pads and rotors look fine. I am wondering if my emergency brake needs adjusting or the caliper is too tight, but I am not sure what to do and how to adjust the emergency brake if that is what I should try.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The only thing that comes to mind is to check all four pads again to make sure? Squeaking/grinding while NOT applying the brakes is usually a sure sign that pads are worn out. If they aren't, I don't know what to tell you.

    On a similar note, can someone tell me if the drum brakes (on my 96 LX)have this same squeak/grind feature when the shoes are nearly worn out?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Did you look at the pads end to end? I've seen pads that look almost like new at one end, but were gone at the other end. Obviously there was caliper problems, maybe you have the same issue.

    If you think the emergency brake is too tight, jack up the car at that corner and give the wheel a spin, it should spin freely if the brake is off.

    Mrbill
  • duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    I wish I could explain this better, but I can't figure out how to type slight noises. I have a 99 Accord ULEV 4 cylinder. Lately, the car has had a slightly different, slightly louder noise coming from the engine area when idling, particularly when first started in the morning, or after sitting all day at work. The noise does not sound like an exhaust or manifold leak. I'm not sure that I would have noticed it if it weren't for the fact that we bought this car new and have had it for 7 years. It also is a little more sluggish when first started, and almost stalled once (only after sitting for several hours). It has 86,600 miles on it, original timing belt, has had the 30K and 60K mile service performed on it by the dealer. I'm sorry that I don't have much more to work on than that. Any ideas / suggestions?
  • xkiddx13xkiddx13 Member Posts: 122
    :confuse: i HAVE A HONDA ACCORD EX 2002,I BOUGHT USED, THE DEALER DID NOT HAVE THE KEYLESS REMOTE FOR THE VEHICLE, AND TOLD ME THAT THEY WOULD TRY AND FIND ONE. WELL I GOT THE REMOTE NOW BUT I GUESS IT IS SUPPOSED TO BE PROGRAMED SOME HOW. DOES ANYONE KNOW HOW TO PROGRAM IT TO MY CAR. :confuse:
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    The Honda dealer should be able to program it for you. Did you buy the car at a Honda dealer?

    Sidenote: Please remove all caps...most people interpret caps-lock being on as yelling. Honest mistake, but using regular font makes posts more easily legible.
  • jolpotjolpot Member Posts: 19
    I have been losing air from my 2 front wheels - almost 10psi over a week. This started happening end of 2005 and almost every monday, I have to fill air. I took my car to Midas(specifically for tire rotation) and when I explained this problem, he said my tires are bald and he will not do tire-rotation and may need to replace the tires. I told him that there is tread enough to take me through to fall 2006 and I want to wear these tires out before getting new ones. He didnt check the tires for leaks and was insistent I get new tires, from him. I said no and walked out...

    I am getting tired of this routine - is there something the gurus on this forum can suggest...Is it a good idea if I buy a can of fix-a-flat and try to seal/plug fine holes? Is there something that I can do before ponying up money for new tires? I live like 8 miles from work and that is all the driving pretty much. Any help appreciated.

    Thanks,
  • thegraduatethegraduate Member Posts: 9,731
    What I have always understood was that Fix-A-Flat was good to get you off the side of the road, but wasn't really a "good fix" for the tires in the long-haul.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Do you live in an area that uses road salt? To have 2 tires with slow leaks, I wonder if you have rim leaks.

    I would be a little nervous if it's not rim leaks, if its something that in the tires, it could work it's way out (or in) and then your slow leak could turn into a fast leak.

    Fix a flat may work OK on rim leaks, but it may not work if you have a bigger problem.

    Mrbill
  • nlsnls Member Posts: 65
    How are the side walls on the tire? If they are cracked, then it is possible that air is leaking out from them. If your tires are OEM tires, then they are six years old and I wouldn't take chances with them.
  • whitecloud1whitecloud1 Member Posts: 268
    Don't use fix a flat. Why not just go to a tire store or gas station?
  • duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    Does anyone have any ideas? Another thing that I recently noticed is that there is a little bit more vibration. It isn't much, but enough to rattle small items sitting in the storage area in the front of the console (under the radio) and the steering wheel. I don't know if this is a timing thing and I need to get the belt changed, or perhaps a tune up thing? A friend of mine mentioned that I am noticing the changes when the season is changing and gas is being switched over to the summer formula - he thinks that it might go away in a couple of weeks as the engine/computer adjusts. His 150K mile towncar does the same thing at this time of the year. Does that make sense to anyone?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    true story: a lady had a tire that was going flat, and i noticed it at the moment she was getting in the car so i made a comment to her that she should have it repaired right away. she said, i'm too busy...i'm late for a tennis match.

    i bet her fix ended up costing her a lot more money than she would have spent if she drove the vehicle across the street to a station that does repairs.

    the anecdote is pertinent to your situation...

    if your tires cannot pass the "Lincoln Head" penny test, and/or you have areas which are actually bald, your only option in my opinion is to get a new set of tires.

    the material in a can of "fix it" (or what ever) will probably not seek the leak if it is not rapid enough, but I am not sure of this. however, fixing a tire like this from the inside this way? no, i think it's going to throw the balance of the tire off at the very least. i've heard, i don't know if it's true that a can of the stuff will render a tire with a hole, potentially unfixable or problematic to fix, because of what it does to the inside of the tire. i'm not sure about that either.

    hey - this is free advice. ;)

    anyway, there are some decent tires you could purchase through SAM'S or WALMART. you don't have to pay a fortune, but i realize overall, four tires can be expensive.

    if your tire / tread depth is very shallow, i believe the tire's ability to push rain water away while maintaining contact with the road surface will be greatly diminished.

    also a slow leak now, could become a rapid tire pressure leak and loss when at speed and when the tire is warm. it's hard to predict what will happen.

    but anyway, if you were to loose a tire at high speed, you can loose control of the vehicle which puts you and others in harms way.

    the recommendation you received to your situation was probably the best one.
  • diferdifer Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone know how to go about changing the Climate Control Display bulb in a 2002 Honda Accord EX V-6 Model?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    i forgot to mention that when getting new tires, make sure you get an alignment or it is checked at the very least.
  • duke15duke15 Member Posts: 161
    Thanks for the advice, but my tires are fine. They maintain air the way that they should, are in balance, and have over half of their tread life left. My problem is a slight engine noise, increased vibration while sitting still, and hesitation while accelerating. Perhaps the tire response was meant for another post?
  • jolpotjolpot Member Posts: 19
    Hi guys,
    thanks for all the responses. I live in MA and definitely salt is a factor.

    The sidewalls are perfect, there are no cracks and show wear symptomatic of underinflated tires(I found this after googling)...there is not a single crack on the tires, but suspect the tires may be ones whcih had flats a while back(2 tires had flats in the last 2 years).

    I want to be better informed before going to a tire station...I assumed the visit to Midas would atleast help me to push the tires to the back and get the good ones from the back to the front...this didnt happen. I also hoped that he would check for leaks on the tires instead he played smart and said that it WAS DEFINITELY due to tire wear...

    any ideas?
  • colts93colts93 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Honda Accord Ex. I just recently noticed when I start the car the engine light flashes 3 times, but does not stay on. I have never noticed the light flashing like this before and I was wondering if anyone else has had that problem and could help me figure out why it's doing this.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    yes, it was meant for another post. apologies.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    there is a difference between the "Check Engine Light" and the "Maintenance Reminder Light" .

    is it the Maintenance Reminder Light that is blinking? have you read your owners manual?
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    Since you live in an area that uses salt, my guess is you do have rim leaks. I live in WI and they use tons of salt, and I've had to deal with the salt attacking the rims, esp aluminum ones. I always removed the tires, cleaned up the rims and remounted. For me it was easy, a friend has a tire machine.
    You can check for leaks by mixing some dish soap and water and put in a spray bottle.
    Your probably cheaper off in the long run to bite the bullet now and have the new tires put on. They should have delt with rim leaks already and will know how to deal with it.

    Mrbill
  • colts93colts93 Member Posts: 2
    Unfortunately, we bought the car used and it didn't come with an owners manual, so....it makes things a little difficult. It is the Check Engine light that is flashing.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    A Maintenance Reminder Light which flashes when you start the car or stays on is mearly a reminder to bring the car in for scheduled service.

    However a blinking Check Engine Light? I've never heard of it blinking... But read on.

    In my 2002 owners manual (by the way, the 2002 Accord owners manual can be downloaded from Honda's Owner's Link web-site if you register, perhaps your's as well), the "Malfunction Indicator Lamp" or the "CEL" or "Check Engine Light" (has a picture of a little engine with the word "CHECK" in it) is the indicator in the tachometer display above the battery lamp.

    The "Maintenance Required" or "Maintenance Reminder" light (the reminder for scheduled service) is also on the tachometer display but is the one above the Low Oil Pressure Lamp.

    Now then, consulting my manual, the malfunction indicator comes on when you start your car and is supposed to go off. I think all the indicators are supposed to do this so you know they are all working.

    If it comes on and stays steady you have a problem that should be immediately attended to by a service shop.

    Here's the interesting part I found in my manual which I didn't know. There is on-board diagnostics used by emissions testing services to know if your car is running properly or there is an emissions problem. Before you can have an emissions testing service check your vehicle, the system must have certain readiness codes set in it's memory - essentially telling the emissions tester, the data contained in the computer is valid for you to upload and inspect.

    Quoting from the manual: "If you car's battery has been disconnected or gone dead, these codes are erased. It takes several days of driving under various conditions to set the codes again. If possible, do not take your car for a state emissions test until the readiness codes are set. To check if they are set, turn the ignition on (II) but do not start the engine. The Malfunction Indicator Lap will come on for 20 seconds. If it then goes off, the readiness codes are set. If it blinks 5 times, the readiness codes are not set."

    So can you provide more details as to what is happening? Maybe then we can provide better guidance to you.

    Take a deep breath - I'm still thinking what you are seeing is the maintenance reminder (the not so critical one... which just means change your oil and have the car's other systems looked over during regular service).

    If that is the light which is blinking (and as I recall it blinks 3 times when you are comming up on a scheduled maintenance interval), then you reset it by pushing in on the trip odometer reset button and holding, then turning the car just to the accessories position and only letting go when the light goes out.

    Go ahead and register the vehicle on Honda's Owner Link, then download the 2002 .pdf file of the owner's manual for your car.

    I hope I've helped. ;)
  • jolpotjolpot Member Posts: 19
    Thanks MrBill, I may have to bite the bullet then?

    Do alloy wheels make the rim free of salt attacking them, curious? My accord has alloy wheels.
  • mrbill1957mrbill1957 Member Posts: 823
    For what I have seen, alloy wheels are worse when it comes to salt damage. It seems like the salt works in between the tire and rim, and the salt corrodes the aluminum causing the rim leaks. Steel wheels do alot better, but obviously don't look as good.

    Mrbill
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    mrbill = is it possible alloys are not all created equal? and also, don't alloys have an external coating on them?

    i remember scraping a curb with my jetta a decade ago (no wait - actually two...oh my) and being quite surprised the material underneath wasn't the same as the top layer.

    also, if you live in a state notorious for pot-holes, bent rims are something to consider. i remember a replacement rim for my jetta was really expensive.
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