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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • les19les19 Posts: 2
    Have a honda 1989 accord fuel inj 2 litre. My problem is when you take off it is very sluggish the revs are normal but the car doesnt want to go .When the revs get higher the car then takes off and flys ,it hesitates occasionally when at 80 and over but runs beautiful,its only in low gear that it has problems .It idols ok but when you put you foot down and give it a quick rev it then hesitates and jumps a bit. If you hit it again it might stall .I replaced the main air valve it had no ball that helped a little but still having this problem. When it gets hot if you stop it you usually cant start it for a while .I thought fuel at first changed filter and pump but no change. any ideas Im all out
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
  • newb435newb435 Posts: 4
    This weekend I changed out the Main Relay underneath the steering wheel, based on what I had read in this forum, but it didn't fix the problem. I also read in the manual about the TPS so I may go there next. I have already swapped out 2 of the 6 coil packs and it still didn't fix it. As you mentioned in your message, its an intermitent issue and only happens when the engine is hot and after its been restarted 3-4 times. Very strange issue and when I check it out on the diagnostics it always says the same thing; missed fired on all of the cylinders. I might try replacing the TPS; changing the coil packs hasn't helped; still get the same syptoms and failure call outs. There has to be someone out there that has fixed this type of anomoly.
  • betsy44betsy44 Posts: 3
    Hello, my Honda Accord 2002SE has 111700 miles. It's running fine. I have been quoted $375 for the 90,000 scheduled maintenance plus $500 to change the timing belt. I'm told the timing belt needs changing as a preventative measure because if it goes, it will damage the engine. Is it necessary to do the maintenance and timing belt? Can I streamline the maintenance by only having some of it done, and if so, what would you have done? I could get all of it done, but it will be a financial squeeze. Thanks very much for your input.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Betsy, your timing belt should be changed as soon as possible. Your engine is living on borrowed time. It's hard to know what else needs to be done, without doing some checking. What does the coolant look like? What do the brake pads and fluid look like? What does the transmission fluid look like? Would these items be included in the maintenance? $875 is not a bad price for all these items. Some shops would charge that much just for the timing belt service. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
  • lucas123lucas123 Posts: 7
    My '98 accord will occassionally stall at a stop light...this is a very random thing that has happened in the past few months. I thought nothing of it, I do most of the maintenance and repairs myself; it runs very well with good power at 163,000 miles (V6). Does anyone know if this stalling is gas related? Right before it stalls, my car will struggle to stay on...almost like it is choking. Maybe fuel the injectors are dirty? Or does it sound electrical? I don't know where to look on this one. Got new alternator, battery, I tightened the battery terminal connections just in case...
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Have you changed the timing belt on your 163k V6 and, if so,at how many miles? Thanks.
  • lucas123lucas123 Posts: 7
    Changed at 103,600 miles on 10/11/2004...valves and things were also adjusted at that time.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Thanks,again. Sorry I can't help with your question.
  • lucas123lucas123 Posts: 7
    When is it recommended to change your timing belt? I have a '98 accord V6 with 163,000 miles. I changed it at 103,000 five years ago. I figure that it would be better to change it earlier since my car is 11 years old now. Anything else that would be good to adjust/change at the same time with the timing belt?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Change it every 7 years or 105k miles. When you have it done, have the water pump replaced too.
  • lucas123lucas123 Posts: 7
    When I first bought my '98 accord used (5 years ago), it would idle smoothly at a stop light. Now, it vibrates more at a stop light. I'm not sure if maybe I need to replace a fuel filter (never done), clean or replace fuel injectors, change spark plugs cables or distributor, etc. I have 164,000 miles. It's in good shape. I've cleaned the intake manifold out last year and that made my car idle nicely. Spark plugs, EGR, PCV, Oxy sensor have all been changed. Anything else I need to do? I want to keep the car another year or two, so I'm trying to do everything possible to keep it running well. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    I'd do the following:

    1. check carefully for vacuum leaks anywhere

    2. Inspect and change out the spark plugs

    3. If you can find some REAL fuel injector cleaner, the industrial type a repair shop might use (not off the shelf wimpy products from a supermarket), you could try that.

    I don't see how plug wires or distributor would cause a rough idle IF...IF...in fact the car runs fine on the highway.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Check the engine mounts. Is it a vibration problem, or is it running rough? Its hard to tell from the post.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    Also a good idea. Does that engine have a support strut as well?

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • lucas123lucas123 Posts: 7
    It doesn't ride rough on the highway. Actually, it idles much more smoothly at a stop light after driving on the freeway for 20 minutes or so. I'm not sure if the engine has support struts at well. Is it easy to change the engine mounts? What brand of fuel injection cleaners do you recommend? I've used Lucas products in the past.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,057
    I like BGK-44. Or any product that is handed to you by someone wearing a HAZMAT suit is probably okay. :P

    But have a look at those spark plugs!

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • rhubertyrhuberty Posts: 18
    I have a 98 accord with V-Tec 4 cylinder. 155,000 miles. I can be going down the highway at a steady speed anywhere between 30 and 80 mph and sporadically experience a hesitation. It's a split second thing that comes and goes. Sometimes I won't experience it for a number of days and sometimes I will experience it 3-5 times in a 15 mile drive. It's been doing this for almost 9 months - never seams to get worse or better. Just replaced plugs, cap, rotor and wires. Transmission replaced at 109,000 and it's on its 2nd ignition switch so I can pretty much rule that out. Other than that nothing has been done to the engine (does have 2 emission related codes - converter and evap canister but Honda dealer said they should not have a major effect on how the card operates). Any ideas would be much appreciated.
  • dan158dan158 Posts: 2
    My problem with my 98 Accord has been diagnosed by 2 different shops as a cat. converter and a CPM(?). It has about 90k+ miles. I'm trying to figure out which is more likely. Symptoms are engine light came on a few times, during which the engine ran rough. That hasn't happened 6 months or more. More recent, and more disturbing, is the engine dies for no reason, mostly at idle. Dashboard lights flash and then stay on. Has done this 2x today, but usually only 1x every 3-4 weeks. Also, has trouble starting (also sporadic). Other than these symptoms, the car idles well and runs strong.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    rhuberty

    Not sure, but you may have an EGR problem (ports or valve).
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    dan158

    Your problem sounds like the ignition switch (electrical part). If you can cause the engine to stop, by slightly moving the key back and forth, the ignition switch is the culprit.
  • rhubertyrhuberty Posts: 18
    Ignition switch has been replaced 2 times. Most recently around 110K. That's when I believe I initially took it in to dealer as it was really cutting out at the time. New switch took care of 90% of the problem but this hesitation remained. I can jiggle it now like crazy and no cut out so I doubt that is the issue. I am perplexed and nobody appears to have many real suggestions which tells me it might be one of those "unfixable" or "try replacing parts until you get it things." I wish I had a magic wand!
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Ooops, I was replying to dan about the ignition switch. Yours sounds like it could be the EGR system (valve or ports). Have you had that checked? Intermittent problems are the worst, so I feel your pain. The EGR problems are more common on the V6 engines, but that doesn't mean the I4 is immune. Good luck finding the problem.
  • rhubertyrhuberty Posts: 18
    Any idea how a do it yourselfer can check EGR? I can identify it and probably take it out.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    From what I remember on my old Accord you had to apply vacuum to the hose on the EGR valve, but don't remember what the result was supposed to be. I don't have that service manual anymore, so I can't look it up. Sorry Maybe if you did a search on it, you could find out more. Most EGR systems can be diagnosed the same way, so it might not have to be Accord specific. I'm not sure this is even your problem, so I would not just start replacing parts, based on guess work. Good luck
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    I just bought a one owner 2001 LX 4 door 5M with 120K miles. As soon as I bought it, The timing belt work was not done. I had the dealer replace the timing belt and adjust the valve clearance. He checked the water pump and said it was fine and did not replace it. The timing belt looked amazingly clean. There was not a single crack in any grooves.

    Here are my questions:

    Valve/lifter. piston/engine noise: The engine has a tick..tick..tick sound. I mostly hear it at idle. The Honda dealer adjusted the valves but the noise is still there. The service manager said the sound is piston slap that develops in some Hondas in about 100-120K and will not get worse for another 200K and you can not get rid of it. He said the engine is very clean and there is no sign of oil change abuse. Does anyone has any engine addative fix for this?

    Where is the air cabin filter? I thought it should be behind the glove compartment. I tried to remove the glove box. It did not work by removing four obvious screws. Any links to any site that shows the procedure?

    I will have more questions later...

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • dawaddawad Posts: 5
    My car had the same problem with the high speed hesitation. Even to the point that at 80mph the car would actually stall--very dangerous. After several trips to the dealer and many unnecessary repairs the issue was finally properly diagnosed. Turned out to be a "faulty fuel relay switch." It was replaced and car has been fine ever since at high speeds--with high speed hesitation at least.

    Now, I just have to wait three minutes (almost exactly) after starting the car before I can drive away without any hesitation. Totally new problem...

    Car has 239,000 and going kinda strong...beats a car payment.

    Good luck
  • rhubertyrhuberty Posts: 18
    Thanks for the note. That sounds like a plausible solution and does not sound real expensive to try.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    It's behind the glove box and down but is hard to change out on the 98-02 models. Easier on the 2003 and up.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    The bad news is my Honda dealer found 2 broken motor mounts on my 02 V6 with 96k when I had them do my required annual state inspection. The good news is a very noticible improvement on startup vibration and everywhere when accelerating. They said they redesigned the motor mounts in 03. $500,thank you. Had the timing belt,water pump,belts,etc. done the same day $700 more, thank you very much. Old water pump looked good.
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