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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • I have a 98 LX manual transmission with 140K miles. Mostly freeway miles except the last 2 years has been a lot of short trips (2 miles each way, 4 braking events max each direction). REcently, and fairly suddenly, the car developed a shimmy on the highway at speed (i.e. over 60 mph) and simultaneously, upon braking, there is a vibration in the pedal that is quite pronounced.

    I did have the tie rod ends replaced within the last ~ 500 miles due to a clunk with turning.

    I also noticed a recall for 98 HOnda Accord ball joints due to premature wear, etc.
    I see that brake rotors are prone to warping with excessive heat. However, as I only brake hard in emergencies, and usually my brake pads last far longer than average, I find this unlikely unless there is some other reason, like brake caliper drag.

    I don't know if the recall work was ever done on this car: can the dealer tell at this late date by looking up the VIN? I am 3rd owner, having purchased it from my best friends. They did not have that recall done, but it is possible that the first owner did. However, I think I have all the records, and no mention of that service.

    Thanks for input!! Otherwise this car has been absolutely great!
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I got warped rotors in my 1996 Accord and it never saw hard driving. It happens, and is probably not as unlikely as you think. I braked hard for one emergency (locking up the tires, actually, as I got run off the road). It ended in a wreck. I got the car back, and sure enough my rotors were warped. One hard stop was enough to do it. I'm not sure about the other recalls you are talking about, since I don't have an Accord of that vintage, but warped rotors aren't all that uncommon I believe.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    is it possible your wheel / tire threw an inner or outter balance weight?
  • Thanks for your reply!
    It is indeed possible that the rotors are warped. However, it came on so suddenly, that I am more inclinded to think there is (perhaps also) a part failure. Plus, the same timing of the high speed shake. I keep thinking wheel weight (as the next person suggested) but I am not sure how that would correlate with the braking vibration. It may be all it is, and perhaps an unbalanced wheel would also shudder on braking- and perhaps in and of itself, cause secondary warpage! :sick:
  • Thanks- I think this is a likely scenario. Will take it down to our local tire shop and have them rotate tires, balance, etc and see whether there is a change in symptoms.
    If not, then alignment and another look-see at the underpinnings...
    Thanks again for your thoughtful replies!
    J
  • Make sure they check the drive axles for excess play when it's up on the rack. A failing CV joint can also create a vibration problem.

    Mrbill
  • My 1998 Honda Accord recently has this problem.
    After starting about 2 minutes, it starts to choke unless I keep my foot on the gas pedal. the problem disappears after 5 minutes

    Also the cooling fan only start when the engine is off...
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    this happened to one of our vehicles when my wife touched a curb while parking fairly aggressively and it pulled the weight right out if i'm not mistaken. one day vehicle drives fine, next day excessive vibration at speed.

    good luck.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I keep thinking wheel weight (as the next person suggested) but I am not sure how that would correlate with the braking vibration.

    If a wheel is out of balance, braking will usually make the vibration worse.
  • 02 Accord, 65 K. Recently the screw on the arm on the passenger side wiper arm get loose and does not move when you turn them on, although the driver side moves. When I disconnected the arm, the "stump" moved so I know the motor is fine. It appears to be just that the screw keeps getting loose. Should I get another screw or an arm assembly?
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Take it to your dealer. Maybe you can get a goodwill repair.
  • You might check for vacuum leaks first off, in the intake manifold, since these often seal up after the manifold expands from engine heat.

    Cooling fan---might be normal, the result of "heat sink" in which an engine briefly heats up after being shut off.
  • Thanks. Yeah, i've decided to sell off my 2001 pathy and keep the older 99 accord. Again the only issue i have with that car is rear main seal leak which is very minimal. I know there were some transmission problems with my model, but i had the dealer run my vin and my car was clear.
  • please don't anyone tell me what an idiot I am, I already know that. I got my oil changed this summer and my car was so low there was none on the dipstick. I thought that it was because I was overdue and vowed to do better but when I went in again tonight out again. No oil lights have gone on and I haven't heard any knocking or engine noises. Have I completely hosed myself or do I have some hope? p.s. I do know better and I have no excuses. :)
    stephanie
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    O.K. Your car is apparently using oil between changes. You need to check your oil every week or so and add oil of the same weight as the oil change place uses. Keep the oil up to the top oil indicator mark on your oil dipstick. No higher,just touching the top oil mark on the dipstick. Check it every week to get an idea of how often you need to add oil to keep it at the top mark. If you need more help ask someone who knows a little more about cars. Hope this helps.
  • i having a shifting problem w/ my baby. when i put her into 1st, she is in 3rd-2nd she is in 4th- 3rd she is in 5th
    i'm assuming it is a linkage issue. any ideas- possibilities?
    thanks , chuckie
  • Hey thanks a lot. I am going to take it to the dealer and get it looked at. thanks for the help
  • My 2000 Accord has a little over 100K miles, and it is running well, but there are some maintenance repairs my mechanic is suggesting. Since I'd prefer to do these over time instead of paying for it all at once, I'd like help prioritizing! Or, let me know if these are things I could tackle (I haven't done them before, but I'm fairly handy with repairs and can follow directions...).

    Mechanic's Suggestions:
    $220.00 Perform fuel injection service and clean throttle body
    $ 85.00 Replace dirty air filter and PCV valve
    $140.00 Flush cooling system due to low pH and replace radiator cap
    $200.00 Replace soft radiator hoses. (may be cheaper if cooling system flush is done at the same time)
    $400.00 Replace worn spark plugs, spark plug wires and corroded distributor cap and rotor
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    You could save a boat load of $$ doing this stuff yourself. I suggest buying yourself a good shop manual for your car. It will give you all the details on how to do each maintenance item. You can get a Helm Honda factory shop manual for about $70 from HelmInc.com, but if you want to go the cheap route, you can always get a Haynes or Chilton manual from a parts store (Autozone, Advance) for under $20.
  • I know I could do the stuff by myself, but I'm not sure I want to do ALL of it by myself. So, any thoughts on what would be the easiest to do by myself?

    Also, what seems the most important?
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