Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

1545557596075

Comments

  • beetoy61beetoy61 Posts: 8
    hi,
    thanks for the reply, the error codes are 45 and 72, do you have any idea to solve this problem.
    thanks
  • mwoods1mwoods1 Posts: 1
    I recently took my 2002 Accord in to the dealer for some warranty work. They came back and told that they did a free maintenance checkup for me and found that my timing belt was worn and showed cracks. The recommended that I replace it for $800. I thought it was odd, being that the car only has 56,000 miles on it and Honda recommends that it be changed at 105000. So I called my local mechanic to ask him about it. He said that he doubs that the dealer checked it, because it requires a lot of labor to get to the belt. I asked if i could bring it to him to check, and he said if he goes to that much trouble, he would replace it anyway. How easy would it be for the dealer to "check" my timing belt?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,956
    It doesn't require a lot of labor but you do have to take off the valve cover on the 4 cylinder and the throttle body cover and intake cover on the V-6. It's not a big deal to check it. You'd better have it checked because if it is cracked you have to have it replaced ASAP. I agree, that would be quite unusual.

    If your mechanic checks it and finds it okay, I would never go back to the dealer again for out of pocket repairs. In fact, I might report them to your local DAs office. This could be regarded as out and out fraud, if in fact the belt is fine.

    I have to say though I am equally troubled by your mechanic's response.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • While your mileage is low for a 2002 vehicle, timing belt replacement is NOT solely based on miles. Honda recommends to replace the TB at 105000 miles or 7 years whichever comes first. Whether your dealer had actually taken off the valve cover to inspect the belt or not is another discussion.
  • synaisynai Posts: 2
    HELLO,
    I HAVE A 99 HONDA ACCORD 4CYL LX MI 274 AND IVE HAD MAINTENANCE DONE ON HER BE IT THE BELT ,REPLACED COILS,NEW SPARK PLUGS FLUSHES...THE PROBLEM IS ABOUT OVER A YEAR AGO EVERY SO OFTEN LIKE ONCE EVERY SIX MONTHS SHE WOULD JUST SHUT OFF AT A REDLIGHT OR NOT TURN OVER IN THE PARKINGLOT...THEN IN THE BEGINING OF THIS YEAR IT HPPND MORE FREQUENTLY AS WELL AS SHE WOULD LIKE STUTTER WHEN SHE CUTS ON THEN SHUT RIGHT BACK OFF AND THIS WOULD GO ON ALMOST EVERYDAY FOR ABOUT 5MIN BEFORE SHED STAY ON,ALSO NOW WHILE DRIVING SHELL JUST SHUT DOWN...CAN SOMEONE PLZ HELP....CAN THIS BE FIXED OR SHOULD I PREPARE FOR HER FUNNERAL
  • synaisynai Posts: 2
    HELLO,IM HAVING THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 99 4CLY LX ACCORD...SO HAVE U HAD ANY RESPONSE SOLUTIONS YET
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    My first guess would be the ignition switch. If you can get the car to die, just by wiggling the key switch (still turned on), it would be confirmed. It could be other things too, like igniter, distributor, coil, etc. Good luck solving the problem.
  • lt0521lt0521 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 honda accord V6 i just recently installed a new battery in it but every time i hook it up the panic alarm goes off wat do i do???
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Can't you push the un-lock button on the remote, to turn it off?
  • antoinetantoinet Posts: 3
    freddie,
    I also have a 1998 accord, it is a 4cyl LX. Over the past year i too have had the same problem, the engine just dies even when driving along at a constant speed. My mechanic is hesitant to replace anything he is not sure of being the problem. So far he has replaced the fuel injectors because the pressure was low and has replaced the distributer cap which had a hole in it. Unfortunately it died again this week. Have you found the cause to this problem? If you have i would appreciate some advice.
    Thanks,
    Tom
  • bradmazbradmaz Posts: 1
    '01 ACCORD COUPE EX. The alarm randomly goes on and can be turned off with the keyless remote. If I try to lock the doors with the keyless remote the car won't honk and the lights won't turn on like normal. I try to lock the doors manually but the alarm still goes off when it wants. The dealership said there is a relay that resets when you turn the car on, this works sometimes. What should I do? Thanks!
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Tom,
    Try giggling the key, while the engine is running. If you can get the engine to shut off, without changing the switch position, you've found your problem. Do the dash lights go out when this happens (another indication of ignition switch)?
  • hbund216hbund216 Posts: 162
    I have a 2000 Accord with a manual transmission. Once in a while when I try to shift into 1st gear while stopped the sifter will not go into gear or goes in partially. There is no grinding at all. I can shift into other gears. Trying to see if anyone else has had this issue and what the fix was. The clutch seems to be fine. I'm thinking it's the synchros or the master/slave cylinder.
  • Did you ever find out what was causing the car to die? Mine has been doing this off and on for several months, only getting worse.
  • antoinetantoinet Posts: 3
    no i have not, i tried jiggling the keys while the car was running as elroy instructed me to do in a post like 3 above this one but i could not get the motor to turn off. The dash lights do go out when it does die which he said was an indication of an ignition problem. If i remember correctly there was a recall for the ignition several years ago and im pretty sure my dad took it in to be replaced, if you did not do that maybe you should start there. I will keep you posted.
    Tom
  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Posts: 419
    Does your car start right back up? My alternator went bad a couple of years ago, and that would cause the car to come to a halt.
  • marharmarhar Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Accord. I had the same problem. I took it to the dealer to get the tune up. I told them the problem of the car dieing with out warning. They told me it was a bad part that was under a recall and fixed it for free. After they fixed the part it has run like new. Call your local dealer and tell them the problem and they should fix it for free. It was a factory recalled part.
    Mark
  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Posts: 419
    Gee, thanks. Does the part have a name? Or is it just a thing-a-ma-jig?
  • rlserlse Posts: 1
    I also have had this problem. I do know there was a recall on the ignition switch, which is what my problem was. I believe you will find that if this happens again just simply reach down to your key and turn it to the start position very slightly and your car will come back on. You may have to hold the key in this position. If you are short on cash you can wrap tape around key and up to the gauge panel for a short time until the ignition switch wears out further.
  • antoinetantoinet Posts: 3
    It does start right back up every time which is a good thing, but it is still dangerous to drive if its going to quit, got to be careful pulling out into traffic and would not want to be on the highway. Will let you guys know what i can find out.
    Tom
  • sl156sl156 Posts: 2
    My 99 accord had the ignition switch recalled and replaced by the dealership in 2002 and also had another the ignition key safety recall in 2005. I have put in over 200,000 and recently I have experience what you all have regarding frequent engine dies on the road but able to restart without problem. However I have to hold the key for a second or so while starting the car otherwise the engine would start and die immediately. I am not sure the dealer will replace the ignition switch free this time.
  • tiruvantiruvan Posts: 10
    Just noticed that our 2002 Accord has a bump that runs along the floor (foot area) on both the driver and the driver's rear seating area. Is that normal? We bought it new in 2002 and have never noticed such a thing.

    A couple months ago we got rear ended at 15 mph pushing our car into the front car. I suspect the collision center that ran the checks missed this bump. Please let me know if anyone else found the bump in their car.

    Thanks!
  • jakekocjakekoc Posts: 1
    Since 2-3 months ago, when I drive faster than 75 mph, I hear a very noticeable rattle noise from the front passenger side. I'm not sure where it exactly comes from, but it sounds like something is possibly loose and rattling around. Can only hear the sound above 75 mph, once I slow down, the noise is gone. Noise also fades in and out if I'm cruising at 80 mph, it is not a constant noise. I don't hear the noise during normal driving of 35-50 mph.

    I took it to the dealer and they replaced the heat shield which didn't fix the problem. They also replaced a tie rod and bushings which also hasn't fixed the problem. Anyone know what could cause this rattle at high speeds?
  • alangpalangp Posts: 13
    I guess that I had the same problem on my 02 LX 5speed as early as in 2003 (first manual car, living in Iowa, 12k mile / year). What I did in the middle of traffic was to shift it out 1st gear, release the clutch and try again. It usually would do the second time.
    Never mentioned the problem to dealer because I didn't think I can SHOW them what's wrong. I am still having the problem, but it happens once or twice a year. So I still keep the car.
    You definitly can talk to dealer.
  • mitchfloridamitchflorida Posts: 419
    This was written a while ago . . I don't know if it would apply to your situation.

    The dealer never could diagnose the problem properly. Why? Well, because I drove the car there and since it was on and not in a "stalled state" the proper code never appeared. A new battery, tune up and ignition switch only made the dealer more money.

    The problem was a bad FUEL RELAY SWITCH. Make sure that they check this component.

    Bad fuel relay switch caused my car to stall at high speeds, low speeds, and in all weather conditions.

    Good luck...I know how maddening the situation is.

    http://autorepair.about.com/od/enginetroubleshootin1/a/honda_hot_start.htm
  • newb435newb435 Posts: 4
    my wife has a 2000 accord v6; she has a similar issue that only occurrs when its hot and after 2-3 re-starts. I'll have her try the fuel thing; do you recommend any certain fuel? I have replaced coil packs, plugs, mainrelay, ect value; none of these have helped. I'll try anything at this point. Its symptom is like a vapor lock.
  • jrsmoothjrsmooth Posts: 11
    Hi all experts: started a few days ago, when my Accord 2002 is in parking, I can't get it out of parking while I was breaking until I try a few times. What I am saying is, when the car is in parking, normally I will have to hit and hold the break while I attempt to pull the stick out of PARK into D4, but started a few days ago, it will take me a few tries in order to get the stick out of the PARK. I would hear a click normally, that's when I know I can depress the drive stick and pull it out of PARK, but again, it will take me a few tries in order to hear the "click".

    Help! Much appreciated!

    --JR
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,956
    Sounds like a sticking Shift Interlock solenoid or a funky electrical connection to it from the brake pedal switch. Remember most cars do have a little slot next to the gear shift where you can insert a screwdriver to release the shifter, should you get "stuck" sometimes.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • mrpenskemrpenske Posts: 2
    synai - my problem hasn't happened again since that time. i think it had something to do with the weather. it was raining alot when it happened. someone suggested that it could be moisture getting into the distributor.

    but i can't reproduce the problem (not that i want to)
  • hbund216hbund216 Posts: 162
    Thanks alangp. Checked around and it seems to be the 1st gear syncros. Basically it will require me to replace the transmission. What you explained works for me also. Another thing that works is to hold the shifter towards 1st (light push) and take up the clutch. The shifter moves into place smoothly. Have to say this is premature failure. I'll drive it until the wheels or transmission fall off and then get rid of it.
Sign In or Register to comment.