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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Considering the car has over 100k miles, all of those things could be necessary. But the hoses, dist. cap, and wires would have to be checked out for cracks etc. to know if they need changing or not. Even changing the coolant sounds easy, but it's not as simple as drain and fill. There are procedures to follow, and that is why I suggest obtaining a shop manual, if you plan to do ANYTHING to your own car. A good shop manual, and a little common sense go a long way to saving $$$$. Good luck
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    - You want to do the flush, when you do the hoses....those two jobs go together. Not sure you'd need a radiator cap, that could quite frankly be done at any later time if you had to, without a big deal or draining anything. If these are the original hoses and coolant, these would be high on my list to do.
    - The fuel injection service, you can throw a can of injector cleaner in your gas tank. Other than that, I personally wouldn't be messing with the injectors.
    - Cleaning the throttle body, air filter, and pcv valve all go together. Here again, if this hasn't been done in 7 years you are overdue.
    - I'd do the plugs, wires, caps as well....those 3 all go together.

    All of this would be substantially cheaper than the prices quoted, if you are technically proficient and don't mind getting your hands a little dirty. It is hard for anyone to give suggestions to you, since we don't know what skills you have, what tools you have, and what types of repairs you have done successfully before. I personally consider all of those routine maintenance jobs, but then again I do all of the work on our vehicles. If you haven't worked on anything before, I'm not sure you should do any of it yourself unless you have somebody knowledgeable there giving you assistance and guidance. It certainly would be significantly easier to write a check to have someone else do it though, if you have the financial means and no desire to do these jobs.

    Does this vehicle need the timing belt replaced? If so, let the mechanic do the belt, have him replace the waterpump at the same time, and therefore the radiator hoses and flush all get done then as well.
  • Thanks to both of you. Your responses are helping me figure out what to tackle first and who to have tackle it!
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    You need a timing belt and water pump change at about 90k if it's a 4 or 105k if it's a 6. You need plugs at about 100k. The air filter is $26,you can do it yourself. Check with the dealer not some shade tree mechanic to see what it really needs and what you should really pay. Your owners manual tells you how to do some routine maintenance like fluid,etc. Check it out.
  • Just had my EGR valve done on my 99 accord with 88k miles about 2.5 weeks ago. Today noticed car shuddering, shaking during acceleration. When i back off on gas, shaking disappears. Could it be related to EGR? Maybe the dealer didn't clean to ports or installed faulty EGR? I get no check engine light. Thanks for any advise.
  • My 1998 Honda Accord LX locks are having issues. The locks were working with the keyless remote and the switch on my door, now my car won't lock with the keyless remote nor with the switch inside the car. I have to manually lock all the doors. At first I thought it was my battery because it needed to be replaced, I have now replaced the battery but the locks still won't work. Also the windows on the passenger side are not rolling down anymore. Does anyone know what is going on? I am really hoping it is only a fuse, but someone said it could be the ECU. Please help me. Thanks and Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    lletourn,

    The air filter on that model of car is SUPER EASY to change. Buy a $10 at AutoZone or Wal-Mart (I bought an STP air filter for my grandmother's 2002 LX 4-cyl Accord) and changed it in 30 seconds!

    Not sure about the rest, as I'm not a mechanic at ALL!
  • You don't need to remove a bumper for this. I think they're trying to make a lot of money on an easy fix. If the bulb is burned out (which I assume is the case), it can be replaced by yourself easily. Basically, open the hood, find the old bulb, twist/rotate it, pull it out, remove the wire. Installation is the reverse of removal. It should take 5 minutes and you don't need any tools. Also, be careful not to touch the glass - the oil from your skin will create problems with heat and shorten the life of the bulb.

    I recommend that you apply a small amount of dielectric grease to the contacts on the bulb to keep water out, and that you replace both the left and right bulbs at the same time - they fail at about the same time.

    You can find the grease and bulbs at any auto parts store. I use the regular Sylvania. The other more expensive one (have a bluish color) are a gimic and burn out quickly.
  • The others are right: You can do most of that stuff yourself and save a bundle. I've actually done most of it recently.

    You can a decent paper air filter (Fram, Bosch, etc) for $15.00 To replace the air filter, locate the air box on the passenger side of the car, pop the 4 clips, lift the top off, remove the filter, and clean any leaves and debris out of the air box.

    The PCV valve is also easy, should cost ~$3, and take 5 minutes. It's located on the top side of the engine near the backside. It's connected to a rubber hose and plugs into the valve cover. Pull the PCV valve out of the cover, slide the hose clamp down the hose with a pair of plyers, and pull the valve out of the hose. If it's really stuck on there, soak the old PCV valve in a cup of warm water. This will cause the hose to expand so it's easier to remove. Getting the new PCV valve on there require a bit of attrition, but it will eventually slide on there.

    The plugs and wires are also pretty easy, should take under an hour, and can be done by yourself ~$60. I didn't replace the rotor and cap, but it looked straightforward in the manual. I've heard that NKG plugs (same used by Honda) seem to work better than the Bosch, but I had to goto NAPA to get them. Also, you only need the $2-$4 platinum plugs - anything more is a gimmick. Make sure to put anti-sieze compound on the threads and be careful to not cross thread the new plugs. Also, I found it helps to use the old boot plug to remove the old plugs and start the new ones. For the plug wires, start on one side and replace one at a time.

    For $200 dollars, they better take the fuel injectors out and sonicate them in Triton-X 100 for an hour. I doubt it. They probably dump a bottle of fuel system cleaner in the tank and let chemistry takes it's course. Valvoline only charges $80 for that treatment. The throttle body is probably cleaned with the same canned stuff that you can buy at any auto parts store.

    If the radiator hoses need to be replaced, then you mind as well have the cooling system flushed. The price is a bit steep in my opinion, and I would do it myself. $300 is worth half a day of my time.

    I would definately look at getting the timing belt replaced. It's worth the cost to have someone else do it, and you don't want to have on fail on you.
  • mtr3mtr3 Posts: 4
    I changed the timing belt and the car wont start. It is not the belt b/c all of the gears are aligned correctly, however I am now not getting power to the ignition coils. I replaced the sparks prior to this work so they r ok. I think that maybe raing the engine to work on the belt may have disconnected some plug which controls the power to the igntion coils. I also checked all the fuses and they are good. What could be causing this problem??? Also the car started after I replaced the timing belt, but before I put back all the covers and new PS and AC belt.
  • Hi. I have a 2001 Honda Accord V-6. I am experiencing a noise coming from the steering column of my car. I have checked to see if anyone else has posted a similar problem, but do not see it. The noise sounds like the steering column is squeaking from rubbing when I slightly turn the wheel. There is nothing to cause this and I have enough steering fluid. Is there something else I should be checking? I greatly appreciate any feedback or suggestions of what to look for.

    Eagle21
  • I just purchased a 2002 accord 2 months ago. At the time I couldn't afford the extended warranty (I've learned my lesson on that one). My transmission died and had to be replaced last week. I got the car back this week. I drove it off the lot, after the repair, and the car didn't drive any better. Due to the fact that I just bought the car and I hadn't purchased the warranty they agreed to pay 2/3's of the repair bill. I paid $1000 for a broken transmission. I took it back today and they have to replace the NEW transmission. The worst part is they aren't going to pay for me to get a rental car while I am without my car. I wish I never bought a Honda considering all the research I have now done. Can anyone help me learn to love this car?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Accord V6s of that generation had extended warranties on their transmissions I believe. They were prone to failure. I'm surprised you missed that in your research, and am sorry to hear about your troubles.
  • meinkmeink Posts: 1
    so i decided to put new pads on my 1999 accord. did the front pads and DID NOT change anything about the fluid level. and i did not open the resevior by any means. after i secured the calipers and put the tires on i got in the car to pull forward to do the rerar pads. i pumped up the brakes so they would stop the car. when i did this, i heard a "pop". looked uder the car and found brake fluif everywhere. i can see a spot on the bottom of some sort of proportioning valve, it looks like maybe theres a plug supposed to be there???? anyone help?????? thanks
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Where exactly is the leaking component. Can you take a picture of it and post?

    And what do you mean when you wrote "I pumped up the brakes so they would stop the car". If you have to pump the brakes, you've got another problem.

    When is the last time the brake fluid was flushed/bled?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    if it is the v6- there may be some recourse through Honda. ie, if they did extend the warranty, perhaps you are really entitled to the 1K you are currently out.

    research, then call them.
  • If your 2002 Accord V6 has an automatic transmission, warranty has been extended to 7 years or 100,000 miles due to lack of thread locking compound on nut for low clutch. Check to see if this applies to you.

    Regards
    Corkscrew
  • I went to a website that checks for recalls on cars by entering the VIN # and my car didn't have any. Is there another way?
  • Corkscrew where do I find proof of this extended warranty??? I'm not able to find it.
    Please advise
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