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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • Do the brakes seem to be functioning correctly?

    If the brake fluid was topped off at sometime when the pads were worn down, when you push the pistons back in, that extra fluid has to go somewhere.

    Mrbill
  • With the vin number in hand, contact Honda USA and they will tell you if you are covered or not.
    I am not sure if I can post their toll free number, but you can get it thru directory assistance.
    Regards
    Corkscrew
  • While not all 98-02 Accords were covered by the extended warranty, transmission problems on those model years are quite common. Even if the vehicle isn't covered by the warranty extension, call Honda corporate and present your case. There's a very good chance that you will be able to have most of the repair paid for if it was done at a Honda dealership.
  • tuanltuanl Posts: 5
    Hi,

    Somehow my car radio does not have any power and I try to turn it on.
    This happens after I replavce the dead battery with the new one.

    I have tried to remove the battery and plugs it back in hope if the power
    get reset but it did not help.

    I appreciate if anyone can give me suggestions what to do.

    Thanks

    --
    Tuan Le
  • snukesnuke Posts: 81
    Hi Tuan.....Take in mind with this answer that I am a female and not very knowledgeable about cars. However, I have a 2000 Accord and have had to replace my battery before as well. If your radio is the same one that came with the car, you should have been given what is called an Anti-Theft Radio Identification Card when you purchased your car. This card has a code number and serial number. You need to enter the code number on the card into the radio system for the radio to operate normally. This is what I had to do after replacing my battery. Your car's manual will provide you step-by-step instructions on how to enter the code which I found to be very simple. I hope this helps.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    snuke,

    Being female sure doesn't mean anything! You are exactly right. :)

    Merry Christmas to you, and to all!
  • nlsnls Posts: 65
    1998 EX 4-cyl with 80K miles, bought used at 45K miles. Apparently the service interval for spark plug change is 30K miles, doubt it was done at 30K, and I haven't replaced them after I bought the car. Will using platinum plugs increase the replacement interval, and will the wires need to be replaced if I use platinum plugs? Is the gap .044" or 0.04"? What is the recommended mileage for wire replacement? How to find out if it is arcing, or has deteriorated?
  • Platinum or Iridium plugs increase the interval only if the plugs have the platinum pad on the ground electrode. Wires can be tested to determine their condition and are replaced on an as needed basis, but I usually replace them at 100k. Your Accord may use a coil setup, I'm not sure. If you buy the correct part # for the application, the gap will already be set correctly. No need to worry about it. In fact, do NOT adjust the gap...it can damage the plug on many of the Platinum and Iridium plugs.

    BTW, stick with NGK or Denso plugs. Those work best in most vehicles. Avoid Bosch like the plague.
  • Conventional plug wire have a resistance of 10,000 to 15,000 ohms per foot of length. You can measure them with an inexpensive ohmmeter. As far as cracking or arcing, look at the wires at night with the engine running. You should see arcing. You can also mist them with a spray bottle of water as an aid of reviling deteriorated wires.

    Mrbill
  • snukesnuke Posts: 81
    Thanks graduate. The time here (TX) is now 9:15 p.m. and Christmas Day is nearly over. I hope your Christmas has been a pleasant one and I hope you have a wonderful New Year.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Happy Holidays from Dixie (Alabama) :)
  • nlsnls Posts: 65
    Thanks for the tip. I will check it out. If the service interval is extended only by the use of double platinum plugs, what is the advantage in using single platinum plugs? If Bosch plugs are to be avoided, is the use of their wireset okay? I see some premium wiresets advertised, is there any real performance improvement?
  • jolpotjolpot Posts: 19
    I had my tires rotated and fronts aligned around 10 days ago. A couple of days ago, noticed when I insert the key into the ignition and turn(not start yet), the Parking light AND D4 light come ON. After a second maybe, D4 is off.

    I try to start the car and as the car is cranking, both parking light and D4 are on and once the car starts, D4 goes OFF and Parking light is ON.

    Is this standard behavior or is something wrong or about to go wrong? I did read "thegraduate"'s post about "blinking D4" light and spent the last weekend reading a lot of articles/posts about TCU, main relay, solenoids, the long and short D4 codes...primarily, however, my D4 does not blink...it briefly comes on and goes off and am able to drive the car...I read about the car not shifting properly either, since its an auto tranny, tuff to say.

    Although, the guys at TownFair Tire(Tire rotation and alignment) may have screwed something up when aligining the fronts, I can feel the brakeshoes press against the rotors...there is a weird rythmic noise and vibration on my steering wheel and my mileage too has dropped dramatically over the last week. So, I am not sure if this is related to the issue I am writing.

    Any help appreciated.
    Thanks,
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I try to start the car and as the car is cranking, both parking light and D4 are on and once the car starts, D4 goes OFF and Parking light is ON.

    Is this standard behavior or is something wrong or about to go wrong? I did read "thegraduate"'s post about "blinking D4" light and spent the last weekend reading a lot of articles/posts about TCU, main relay, solenoids, the long and short D4 codes...primarily, however, my D4 does not blink...it briefly comes on and goes off and am able to drive the car...I read about the car not shifting properly either, since its an auto tranny, tuff to say.


    I am trying hard to remember, but I want to believe this is pretty normal. If your D4 isn't blinking, or staying on regardless, you should be ok. In a moment, I'll actually run outside and double-check this with my 1996 Accord LX for you.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    jolpot,

    I just tried this. When:

    1.) Turning the key to position II (ON) - the P and D4 are both illuminated for the duration of two seatbelt warning beeps (about two seconds, maybe three). Then the D4 goes off.

    2.) Cranking the car - the P and D4 are both illuminated for the duration of the cranking. When the car is started and running, the D4 immediately goes off, leaving the P on.

    I have a few videos on youtube.com. Do a search for my username - UABBlazers87 - and search for my boring video of "1996 Accord LX Cranking". It is hard to see (dark) but it shows the sequence my car goes through when cranking up, I believe. I can't access youtube from my current location, but I hope you can, you will, and will see that it acts like your vehicle (I hope!).

    Keep us posted jolpot.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If Bosch plugs are to be avoided, is the use of their wireset okay?

    Stock Honda wires are the best you can get (made by NGK). The old stock wires you have are probably better than a new Bosh set, IMO.
  • jolpotjolpot Posts: 19
    thegraduate,

    Firstly, thanks for the lightning response. Thank you thank you thank you :-)...my baby, my baby is doing just fine then, what relief!

    Yes, I saw both the videos(
    ), however, it was hard to see the "D4 illuminated during the duration of cranking".

    The reason why I began to notice this, after 7 years of owning, I dont know.

    Except, in the winter, the car cranks for 3-5seconds(previously posted unresolved issue!) before coming to life and sure enough, my eyes were on the console and happened to see P and D4 ON and then D4 go OFF.

    Now to go and fight with the townfairguys to see what they messed up...

    phew!
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    There is a paste substance that is to be applied to the back of the brake pads and between the shims. My guess is they either didn't apply the paste, or didn't use the shims, or both. Techs not familiar with Hondas may not know this is necessary to prevent squealing and vibration.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    No problem... I'm sorry my video is hard to see (it was my first real car post on youtube so I didn't really know what I was doing :blush: ) and the fact that I can't access youtube right now means I can't positively remember what you see in the videos.

    Glad I could help (although I didn't really do anything ;) ) It's funny how you notice little nuances about your car as time goes by. We all do it. :)
  • jolpotjolpot Posts: 19
    I dont want to thread crap.

    Elroy, I dont know what is done in a typical wheel alignment...am surprised to notice this has an effect on my brakes...the brakes/rotors were done by a friend and me this past february and you are right, we forgot to grease the backside of the brakepads and all these months, I have felt sorry for the drivers on the road...ohh, the horror!(squealing).

    After the front wheel alignment, when the car is in motion(I ake my foot of the gas pedal and while momentum takes the car forward, can actually hear the rythmic noises coming from the wheels)the brakepads seem to come in contact with rotors, especially when I am on an incline, noise become noticeable, my wife cd hear this morning as we came to a stop at a red light.

    TheGraduate,

    Your real time check and the video more than helped me. It is kinda nice, all of us can make "car diaries" make/post them online ;) Its nice to go back to a previous reference point. Your point welltaken about the "little nuances".
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