Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I think the coating may also be damaged during the tire mounting, or the manufacturer doesn't really focus on applying the finish along the inside of the rim since it doesn't show.
I'm actually considering having my alloy rims on my 04 Accord chrome plated. If it's done well, I would think that it would hold up much better then the clear coat that’s used. I only wish I could see a pic of the rims before I decide.
Mrbill
I was paying for having the tire torn down, the rim buffed out, tire remounted and 'gunk' sealer applied and I asked the owner if he sees a lot of this problem. He said 'I didn't look at the wheel, but is it a Cadillac? I said Yes, and he said They are the worse'.
Good luck.
Had same problem - code can also be in the trunk of the car, mine was on the upper part of the trunk.
David
I have a dent in my front bumper (2002 LX Sedan) and it needs to be replaced. The body shop price for repair was a little too high for me, especially considering the aesthetic nature of the problem.
I was thinking about replacing the bumper myself, but have no idea of what kind of work is entailed if I decide to do so. I read that its best to stick with Honda manufactured parts, but when I searched around the accord front bumper replacements available were not manufactured by Honda.
my questions are as follows:
1) Is it overall worth it to replace the bumper myself given no experience?
2) Should I find a honda bumper if I decide to replace it myself?
3) How intuitive is it to replace the front bumper, given no experience?
4) Any problems encountered or things to keep in mind when you replaced it yourself?
Thanks in advance for your help.
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&cat- - cgry1=Accord&catcgry2=2002&catcgry3=4DR+LX&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=BUMPERS
Mrbill
Good luck.
The process is pretty complicated, seems to require the removal of seveal trim panels.
Yesterday the "check engine" light popped up so today I took it to Advanced Auto Parts to get a diagnostic and got a P0420 code. I understood this to be a catalytic converter needing to be fixed. I called both Honda and another local Honda specialist who claims to be cheaper than Honda and was quoted the same price from both places, $740 plus tax. Honda also said they'd have to do their own diagnostic on the car which costs $98. The thing I wonder is if it'd be in my best interest to get an after-market brand catalytic converter for my car. Financially it'd be in my best interest, but according to one mechanic "it'd be a piece of sh*t". Of course he'd say that though so I would spend more money on his part. My car is at 112000 miles so the extended warranty for this part doesn't apply to me.
I just want to know if anyone out there has any advice and knows how well after-market catalytic converters work in Hondas. Such as Bosal for example, whose converter costs $255. Almost $500 less than Honda.
Any help I could get on this would be greatly appreciated.
Oh, and how long can a car go with this problem before it becomes a major issue?
thanks - dayll
The solnoid is getting cranky and needs to be replaced. If it fail completely, there is a slot, on the top of the steering column for column shifts or in the console for console shifts. There is a cover on this slot which you remove, then push your key into the slot, which will manually override the lock if the solnoid is completely dead. This is to be used only until you repair the solonid.
Once again, this 'slot' and 'key override' procedure is in your OWNERS MANUAL. Read the manual. Read the manual. Read the manual.
i've had the above happen on my '94 accord and also other cars owned. happens.
get a new bulb (proper type by replacement number) and replace it.
I have a 2002 Accord DX 5-speed with just shy of 100k miles. I bought it about 6 months ago from a dealer. For the past couple months I have noticed that I have to add a quart of oil every couple weeks as it burns and goes through oil. I have changed the oil 3 times so far (about every 5,000 miles) and am using Pennzoil 5w-20. I brought the car back to the dealer but they would not look at it, they insisted that Honda's do not burn oil and that I am using the wrong oil and need to use Honda oil only. This is very frustrating as now there is grey smoke coming from the tailpipe every time I accelerate and shift. Do i have to use Honda oil or is this a real problem? Thank you
Then, you will have a lock on a lawsuit.
Federal law mandates that a manufactor cannot dictate that only their products be used. If they do, the manufactor has to provide this product FREE!!!!
But - Did you buy the car 'As Is'? If so, they don't have to do anything about it, you have no warranty.
P.S. I used Pennzoil 5-20 for several years on my 2002 Accord and it never used any oil, none ever added between changes.
I just bought (three days ago) my first Honda, a 99 Accord EX V6 Sedan from a private, second owner. The car has 74000 miles. I have every record of dealer services (7.5k, 15k, 22.5k, 30k, 37.5k, 50k, 60k). After the 30k Mile Service, the second owner had every third oil change done at a Jiffy lube. I have every receipt for those, too. The longest interval between services or oil changes was 7,249 miles.
I actually wasn't looking for a V6; I wanted a 4 cylinder. But how could I pass up such a well-cared for car?
The night that I got home, after the "handshake" but before taking possession, I did my internet search of V6 automatics and found out about the transmission problems in V6s. Yikes!
Question 1) Should I worry about this car's transmission, or should I just continue the maintenance and drive, drive, drive?
Question 2) One of the "little things" that I noticed is that two of the little plastic "buttons" that hold the black plastic under tray to the front air dam are missing. Where do I find some of those?
Question 3) Are the alloy wheels on these Accords worth stealing? There are no wheel locks on them now. Should I get some?
Question 4) My wife and I went shopping today (touch up paint and car wax for me; mulch and plants for her). We set off the anti-shoplifting beepers four times! I would suspect my wife of shoplifting except that two times the beepers went of going *into* the stores! Do Honda key fobs double as alarm testers?
Question 5) I have an appointment for the 75k service next week. As a new Honda owner, is there anything I need to know about Honda service people? "If they say you need a new ____________ a) ignore them. b) they mean it. c) find a different dealer . . ." that kind of thing.
BTW, after my initial heart attack/panic attack/buyer's remorse attack (triple whammy), I found this site. You helped to calm my nerves, so thanks.
EZ
Now, a couple of other items about Honda.
The owners manuals do say you should use Honda antifreeze and tranny fluid. They give instructions as to what other brands can be used 'when Honda is not available', and then say that the antifreeze or tranny fluid should be flushed and replaced with Honda 'as the first opportunity'.
Or something like that.
What I understand:
Antifreeze: Honda does use a somewhat unique antifreeze additive. And it may not mix well with other '100,000 mile' antifreezes. Honda antifreeze is expensive, last I bought was $10/gallon premixed 50%. But since you should be able to get at least 3 to 5 years, or the 100,000 miles, before you need to flush/change, I am going to use Honda, just so there is no question about warranty.
Tranny Fluid: It's my understanding that Honda fluid is so unique that using Dexron, which is the 'emergency' fluid you may use, especially in a total drain and refill, will give shifts that are not nearly as smooth as you get when using Honda. So, once again, because of the relative long life of tranny fluid and what I understand is a definite poorer function if non-Honda is used, and again the warranty issue (I expect to run my Hondas a long time, so I have extended Honda warranties), I will use Honda tranny fluid.
Now for oil (meeting API standards) and filters, any 'name-brand' is totally acceptable. (Except Fram. I've heard bad things about them.)
The problem trannys had obvious problems. Pops, groans, etc, and some had more problems in reverse. The Accuras of this time period also had problems which in some cases involved the tranny locking up, at speed. This was not good. But, I think the Honda V6 tranny is a different tranny and did not have this extreme problem. It would just start to fail, with a lot of slow speed noise.
Also, there was a problem in about 2003 or 2004 with V6 trannys. This is a totally different problem, because this is a different transmission - another gear was added by then. A gear would overheat and burn up. Honda made a retro-fit 'oiler' kit to add, or replaced the trannys with modified rebuilt trannys that did not have the problem.
I think Honda vans might have also had some problems. Not sure about this. I 'think' this might have been the same as the Accura, sharing the same tranny.
Overall, ALL V6 Honda transmissions do NOT have problems. Just certain models, years, and VIN series.
2) Clips. Honda should have these. The air dam has probably been 'curbed'. There might be more damage than just missing clips.
3) People steal anything. Honda's price for a 2002 EX 15" wheel is about $215, I've replaced one. Well, Walmart replaced one because of their tire repair machine operator.
4) I've never had this happen.
5) Since I've been chastized (sp) for this, I will only tell you one time. Read your manual. It will tell you what to service. Do what the manual says. Anything else, the dealer is wanting to move more money from your wallet to his cash register.
Thank you for your prompt reply.
I am worrying less and less about the car as I drive it and as it builds up my trust in it. I know that probably sounds funny to Honda owners . . . .
I have read the manual several times. My concern is the power of the service managers. My dad has an Acura MDX, and the Acura service manager suggested a "hard use" service rather than the regular service. Dad said "no" and the guy put "Customer declined recommended service" in the computer record. Nice, huh? Now what happens if something goes wrong with his car?
If my service manager says I need a new timing belt because of its age and despite its low miles, what then? I think that's a tough call, and they know it.
Keep telling people to read the manual. It's the best advice for any car owner, and the easiest to follow.
Thanks again,
EZ
My comments about the miles versus age of the timing belt in my last post were bugging me, so I re-checked the manual. Sure enough: timing belts should be changed at seven years.
I'll get it done.
EZ