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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair



  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    1) If your master cylinder cap has a rubber boot, it may be hanging down. Simply push it back up into the cap. This is unlikely to be your problem, since the light eventually goes off. I would check for leaks, and check that the brakes do not pull to one side or the other when applied. Bleeding the system may help also. Has the fluid ever been changed? If not it should be (every 3 years regardless of mileage).

    2) If the gas cap being loose was causing the Check engine light, it will go off on it's own, after a few times driving the car. If the cap was not loose, the light will continue to stay on, as long as the problem exists. If the light stays on after a few drives, the cap could be bad, or there could be air in the system (from running the tank low) or an air leak somewhere else. Hope everything works out.
  • Hi Elroy5
    Thanks for a quick reply.
    I will check for the a rubber boot in the cap. What do you mean by bleeding the system? Since I purchased the car just over two weeks ago, I am not sure about the break oil change. But they seem to function well without pulling to one side. The duration of light seems to be connected with ambient temperature. On a cold day with light snow it takes 10 mins or so, while once on a warm day it went off in just 2 mins!! What do you suspect? Also what do you mean by bleeding the system?

    2)I will check the cap and report again.

    I really don't want to invest any money now. Hopefully things get solved by themselves.

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Brake fluid absorbs moisture, and gets dirty quickly. If the fluid has moisture in it, the cold temperatures may be causing the light. Look at the fluid. Can you see through it? Brake fluid is almost clear in color, so if the fluid is dark it probably needs to be changed. I would change the fluid, and use Honda fluid only, then bleed the system until all the old fluid is out. You may need a mechanic to do this for you, because from reading your posts it doesn't sound like you have much experience working on cars. ;) Ask around at a few different shops for a price to change the fluid. It should not cost very much. It's a simple operation for someone who's done it before. Brakes are not something you can let go, or the expense will only grow larger while you wait. Good luck with the car :D
  • Hi Elroy5,
    You're right! I haven't worked with cars so far. But I can always learn. Thinking of taking up volunteer work at Honda Dealership ;) !!

    I checked the cap of the brake fluid reservoir under the hood,
    1)The cap was lose. So tightened it.
    2) The fluid is not clear, it is kind of dark. So it seems to have absorbed moisture or it might be time to change the brake fluid.
    3)For CEL, when I opened the cap yesterday, it kinda hissed as if pressurized vapor escaped the hole. I tightened it but CEL still glows. The CEL light has come on suddenly, when my tank was really low. So I like to think that it might be just trapped air.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Here's a link on bleeding the brakes. To change the fluid though, you would have to suck the old fluid out of the reservoir (or as much as you can get out), and put all new fluid in before the bleeding process. Then bleed the brakes until all clean/new fluid comes out. Have a ball.
  • mentiyamentiya Posts: 17
    I have a 98 Accord and it has been great. Just recently though, my indicator lamp came on and so I took out my manual to investigate a possible problem. I called Honda and took it in and the diagnostic test proved to be my catalytic converter. However, I was told that I have quite a bit of time before replacing it. Okay that is fine, but also I am noticing a vibration when I first start the car and sometimes when it is idling. I am told that I could have a bad motor mount. Is there any connection between the catalytic converter and the vibration that I am feeling. If I were to replace the bad motor mount (whichever one it is) I am wondering if that is the cure for the vibration? Thank you to whoever may read this and respond with a little more insight.
  • ivicaivica Posts: 34
    I have the same problem. Check out these posts

    check post 1514.

    My catalytic converter is going as well, I just purchased all of the parts from Majestic Honda, waiting delivery this week.

    My honda is a 98 also.

  • Hi Elroy5,
    I have an interesting update. This morning after a whole freezing night I started the car and brake light was as usual on. But I immediately turned the car off (in 30 sec), I opened the Brake Fluid Reservoir Cap to see the color of the fluid. It was of amber color and I could see the bottom of the reservoir (it was that clear). Also there was a cylindrical piece of white rubber (I think you called it rubber boot) attached to the cap of brake fluid reservoir. I moved it up all the way near the cap. Though it didnt stay put. I just locked the cap on and guess what? the brake light did not turn on at all. Generally, it will remain on for 10-12 mins when I start the car after keeping it over night.

    What do you suggest? BTW thanks for the link. I am going to get the car checked and serviced as soon as I get the salary.

  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    If the sagging boot on the cap is causing the light, it will not create a problem with the brakes, so you have some choices. Ignore the light, fix the boot somehow, or replace it. Not a big deal, but if the brake fluid is more than 3 years old, I would change it, whenever you have the means. Happy Hondaing. :D
  • jncarsjncars Posts: 13
    The heater blower doesn't blow air to the windshieldt but it seems to work everywhere else. What could be the problem?

    Thanks, Jim
  • willis3willis3 Posts: 76
    Leak is fixed.

    The car was at the dealership for six days. They found the leak in the sunroof. They said the drain tube on the rear passenger side was not installed properly, and it was draining into the rear cabin. They found the trunk wet as well as underneath the rear seats.

    All of this was fixed, covered under warranty. They said it was probably not installed properly from the beginning. I guess I never discovered this problem because the car was either covered or in the garage.
  • Hi Elroy5,
    It seems that the sagging boot is the main problem. Everytime, I pull it up close to the cap, the break indicator gets turned off!

    Plus guess what? My check engine light went off by itself. I did check if the lamp was working or not, by observing that the light glows when I start the car.

    Low Fuel Indicator: I have never seen this indicator lighting even when car starts. What do you suspect? A burnt lamp?

    Odometer light doesn't work either. I again suspect burnt lap.

    Let me know your opinions!

    VJ :)
  • kbainkbain Posts: 2
    I have a 1998 Honda Accord Coupe LX; when driving at various speeds the car stalls (feels like the engine is being choked off from the gas); after pulling off the road, shutting everything off and waiting less than 60 seconds, the car will restart. I had the ignition switch replaced at my local Honda dealership last week and was not 3 miles from the dealership when the car stalled again. The stalling occurs intermittenty (not everytime it is driven); in all outdoor temperatures; with tank full or partially full; using cruise control or not. Any ideas?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    idle relearn procedure perhaps?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Low Fuel Indicator: I have never seen this indicator lighting even when car starts. What do you suspect? A burnt lamp?

    This shouldn't illuminate, if I recall correctly. I'm positive my 1996 Accord doesn't illuminate the Low Fuel Light when cranking, and I'm also pretty positive my grandmother's 2002 Accord doesn't light up upon startup (I am who drives her car the most).

    I suspect you just don't let your fuel get low enough to set it off, and that's definitely ok. :)
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Plus guess what? My check engine light went off by itself. I did check if the lamp was working or not, by observing that the light glows when I start the car.

    My guess is it was the gas cap causing the CEL. Glad it went out. :D

    Low Fuel Indicator: I have never seen this indicator lighting even when car starts. What do you suspect? A burnt lamp?

    I remember thinking my LFI was out on my 92 Accord, but finally one day I let the fuel get low enough, and sure enough it still worked. :surprise: I wouldn't run the car out of gas, trying to make the light come on. ;)

    Odometer light doesn't work either. I again suspect burnt lap.

    If the numbers are still there, and the odometer is still working, I certainly wouldn't take the dash apart, just for that light.
  • obi3iceobi3ice Posts: 16
    Am new on the forum. I have a honda accord 1998 model with 110k mileage. have been drivin the car well ever since i bought it last year june. But of recent i noticed a sharp sound in front of the front driver's wheel every time i want to move. It scares me somrtimes but when on a free way doing 100miles, every thing's stable and smooth... Every time i pull to a stop and move, i hear that sharp sound sometimes.. Can anyone help me out on what that sound might be so i can take it in for repairs....
    Again, i changed the wheels to alloy and the tires to fat ones (225 R15) and every time i enter a bump, the left bac tire touches the underneath. Could this b the shocks or the springs... I would be glad if anyone hints me on the solution to these problems.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    I'm almost sure your tires is hitting the wheel well. I bet if you lifted the car you'd see where it's hitting.

    As for the "sharp sound", that's just not definite enough a description to say anything about it.


  • obi3iceobi3ice Posts: 16
    So what can i do to that back tire to stop hitting the wheel and for that sharp sound, it happens sometimes when i want to move with gear 1. Its like i can feel it on my clutch pad when i release the its right infront of me under the left steering shaft...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,403
    Well if your tire is too big for the car, there's not much you can do. You could identify where it's hitting and...I don't know...maybe spacer the wheel to the outside if the interference is on the inside. But if it's up top, maybe stiffer struts and springs? If it's on the outside fender, you'll have to cut it for fender flares. It all depends how much it's hitting. First off find out where it hits.

    Do you mean a chirping sound, like a bird? That could be a pilot bushing in the flywheel (where the transmission shaft plugs in). A good mechanic could identify a pilot bushing noise right away.


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