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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • I would like to know if my 2001 Honda Accord has what is referred to as an

    EDR(engine data recorder)? I have heard that some cars have these units

    which record various parameters of the car such as speed, brake use,seatbelt use,

    air bag deployment and are subject to supoena in case of an accident.

    Anyone have info about this?
    :confuse:
  • After I replaced the battery(could be co-incident) , I found the RPM and speedometer stopped working. I saw there's a posting back in 2007 for a '99 Accord with similar problem. However, the poster did not say what is replaced/repaired by the dealer. Anyone else with a similar problem? Could it be the vehicle speed sensor?
  • After paying $150 to Honda dealer for diagnostic, their conclusion is to replace the speedometer cluster for another $700. I decided to do this with an outside shop. As I was asking quote from different shops, I found that the cluster really is a circuit board with controller IC. Since the problem happened after I replaced the battery, I decided to give it another try by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it after several minutes. Effectively, I'm resetting the IC. Guess what. The speedometer is working again. Honda engineer should be ashamed of such poor engineering. The controller just didn't know how to get out of an unknown state. I wonder how many speedometer clusters were replaced without any problem.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Car computers, just like other computers, can freeze up, and have errors. A re-boot is many times the simple solution. Saved $700, now that's something to smile about. :D
  • I loaned the car to a friend: she reported that the clutch suddenly would not engage and she could not get it into gear. I suspect she forced it into 2nd, and limped it to a parking lot, leaving it for me to tow home. I had the hydraulic master and clutch cyls replaced, along with the line, to the tune of $600 including parts. Now it is driveable, but 2nd gear synchro is fried. I think she must have broken the teeth off it when forcing it into gear. Car has 145K, runs great otherwise, plan to keep it. No other probs in any other gears, and had none prior to this (maybe slight scrunchiness in 2nd on occasion, and I know this gear tends to wear 1st.) Do I need to just "rebuild the tranny" or ought I just have the synchro replaced in this gear? :sick:
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    Does anyone know how to reset this light or has a website link that shows the steps to do this for 2001 Accord 4 cylinder?

    My son drives this car and I noticed the light being on. The car has 128K miles. I have done all the maintenance on the car and it does not need to go to the dealer for any service so far.

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • snukesnuke Posts: 81
    Joe, these instructions are the ones listed in my 2000 Accord manual.

    1. TURN OFF THE ENGINE

    2. PRESS AND HOLD THE SELECT/RESET BUTTON ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL, THEN TURN THE IGNITION SWITCH ON

    3. HOLD THE BUTTONS FOR ABOUT 10 SECONDS, UNTIL THE INDICATOR RESETS.

    I hope this helps.
  • Hi,

    I am curious about a number of repair items suggested by my mechanic.

    The car runs ok, with the ride being a tad stiff. And, I think that the engine could be a little more efficient.

    I sometimes hear a loud screech when turning the car tightly at low speeds. Based on a friend's suggestion I thought that the CV boots needed replacement. After looking at the car the mechanic recommended the following repairs:

    Replace both axles: $350+
    Replace both front struts: $450
    Replace sway bar links: $150

    Additionally, replace distributor housing: $330+

    Total around $1500 with some other small items.

    Questions:

    Are these replacements expected for a car like mine?
    Are these quoted prices reasonable?
    Which one of these repairs can I live without for now?
    Should I plan for another automobile?

    Also, I want to get the engine efficiency issue looked at, but I am scared that will also be a large bill and I might be tempted to go for it.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    I would take it to a Honda dealer,tell them about the screech and nothing else. Let them check it out. 2nd opinion.
  • lll3lll3 Posts: 10
    Clock is functioning but not light. Can not read time at night. Seems like the problem is the light bulb. When I popped out the clock to my 2000 Accord LX, all I see is a green computer motherboard with 2 wiring terminal attached. The motherboard is screwed into the back of the clock unit. What's next?
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    I replaced the one in my son's Accord. The clock bulb is a little tiny black base screwed in the housing. No wiring goes to it. It gets its power from circuit board wiring. It has a tiny slot for small flat blade screwdriver.

    You will find it much easier if you have the replacement blub/socket. You do not take any of the housing off.

    Joe
  • I noticed that the light in my clock gets dimmer when the headlights are turned on.

    Seems like it should be the reverse.

    Any comment on how to switch this to be brighter at nite?

    :confuse:
  • I noticed that the light in my clock gets dimmer when the headlights are turned on.

    Sounds like it's working fine to me. They dim the clock assuming it's getting darker inside the car (as well as outside) and you don't want as bright a display as you would when it's daytime.

    Mrbill
  • My problem is that its being dimmed so much that it is not readable in a dark car.

    If there is a way to stop it from being dimmed when going to night mode that would correct the difficulty I am having reading it.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Turning the odometer reset button to the right increases the brightness of the dash lights. The only time I find the display is not bright enough is when it's raining during the daytime, and you turn on the headlights, but it's not dark enough inside the car too see the dash lights well (especially if you have sun glasses on). I just deal with it, because the dash lights are too bright at night, if you turn the brightness up too much.
  • booogbooog Posts: 8
    Where did you get the replacement bulb and how much was is?
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    I ordered it among other little items from an online Honda dealer when I bought the Accord used in April.

    Their price was like $2.30. If you are getting several items like wheel covers, bolts, belts, hoses, or filters, it makes sense to go online. If you just need this bulb, go to your local dealer and pay the extra $ to get it.

    Joe
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    Here is the site if you need several Honda items...

    http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/

    Joe
  • Hi Folks,

    Few questions regarding my 2002 Accord/Vtec-4ccyl with 135,000 kms.

    1) The fuel economy has gotten very bad. I've had the following serviced in the past 18 months: Plugs, Fluids(All), new Tires, battery.

    Any thing else I should consider?

    2) The Green Backlight on the Odometer reading LCD died. Is this repairable?

    3) Yes the Tranny is a bit rough. SIGH. Slips once ina while or is just super slow.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Was the service performed by a Honda Dealership?
  • Raprider, I have a 2000 V6 Accord 4-Dr with similar problems. Intermittent problem for last two months. It would stall after a warm start and run rough till it clears and runs fine for days, if not weeks. Then it would happen again, and I thought it had something to do with the gas cap or bad gas. Local Firestone shop can find no problem, couldn't recreate. Took it to dealer and they recommended replacing all 6 fuel injectors, EGR valve, cleaning intake ports etc, but had the disclaimer that this would take care of the problem with 98% success but it could still happen again. Needless to say I had no confidence in this but did change the EGR valve and it ran fine for a week. Several entries in this forum showed similar failures even after following the advice of EGR replacement, fuel-injector cleaning and intake manifold ports etc.

    Spaman made an entry (#10930) in June of 2005 that suggests his wife had a similar problem and "We finally changed the electronic board that controls the spark plug firing ($200) and it solved the problem." That makes me hopeful but I want to make sure this indeed is a correct solution.

    I'm new to the forum and don't yet know how to contact a member and so hopefully this will get the word out. Anyone had this as a solution?
  • I have a 1999 Honda Accord 4 cylinder with 199,000 miles. It runs well. I never did any maintenance to the transmission. I last changed the timing belt at 95,000 miles. I was wondering if I should change it again or put the money towards another Honda? How many miles can I reasonably expect from this car? Thanks for your help.
  • kevman3kevman3 Posts: 30
    Thats a great run, getting 200K. I personally would probably move on before putting much money into it. I found a 2001 Accord 5 speed manual 4 cylinder with 53,000 miles, 1 owner, for 6K. Am loving the car for commuting, getting 33 MPG highway. I plan on piling the miles on this baby.
  • anrianri Posts: 1
    Hi,

    My mechanic tells me that transmission fluid is leaking from my car and that there is a crack in the case. The transmission will have to be replaced and it will cost $1700. I have a few questions:

    1. Since I already have 126K miles on the car. Is it even worth to spend that much money on transmission replacement. Cant I just keep refilling the fluid as it gets low?

    2. If I do get it replaced. Is $1700 a reasonable price? What warranty I should get along woth that?

    3. What price I might get if I trade in my vehicle as is? (I spent $1650 on the car last year for the 105K miles sevice)

    Any advice would be helpful. Thanks.
  • Hi. Our 2006 Honda Accord (V-Tech six cylinder) has started making a metallic scraping noise when driving as if a metal strip were dangling from underneath the car. It occurs randomly, but seems more prevalant when curving right.
    After looking under the car and finding nothing, I thought about the brakes at first, but it occurs while cruising as well. Speed is not a factor and we actually hear it better moving slowly through residential areas.
    Sure would appreciate some input on this.

    Thanks,
    bassmark2000@yahoo.com
  • Was one of the tires recently removed and replaced?

    It's common when removing a tire to lower it before it fully clears the thin metal shield behind the rotor. They can be easily bent and will rub the rotor. When you make your right turn, the rotor tilts ever so slightly and makes contact to shield.

    Mrbill
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    When brake pads are worn out, they make a metallic scraping/screeching sound when the brakes are not being applied. Check the pads. :)
  • hbund216hbund216 Posts: 162
    You can replace the light behind the odometer. It's just like the light that burns out for the clock. Buy the light and follow the instructions on the forum below:

    http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f13/odometer-lights-327164/
  • Hi all. Please i need some help. Where can i get free VIN reports for honda accord cars. All the sites am lookin @ are all asking for pay. Can anyone be of help to me. Thanks.
    Obi
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,990
    No free lunch there, unless someone here would volunteer to do this for you on their account, which THEY pay for. It's actually pretty cheap to do this. Sometimes the dealer or seller will do this for you if you ask.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

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