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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair



  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Go into your owner's manual and read how to reset it.

    I believe it goes something like this:

    With key in OFF position,

    Push and hold the trip/reset button.

    Keep holding the button, Turn key to II position (seatbelt beep and warning lights come on)

    Hold in this position (button pressed, key in II) for 10-15 sec

    Your light should be reset for another 7500 miles now.
  • ivicaivica Posts: 34
    Recently my DRL light has started coming on. What is the purpose of this light? If I turn on my lights the DRL goes out.
  • jjauxierjjauxier Posts: 1
    I just had my ignition switch replaced because of the same problem. There is a recall for this so you should be able to get it fixed at no cost from a Honda dealer. Just beware that they will tell you that you need a lot of other work done, too. They quoted me about $900 worth of work that needs to be done.
  • First the honda seemed to have a little oil around the plug when dh went to change it the last time. We also notice some oil around the #3 spark plug. Made an appointment for Thursday but wondering what we should be expecting. Also how often must the timing belt be changed. I can't find the bill from last time but I think it was around 150K. It has 243k on it now. This is a highway driven car about 150k a day. We would like to keep it for at least another 150k. What should we expect for a repair bill.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Also how often must the timing belt be changed.

    For the 4-cylinder, every 105k miles.

    For the V6, I want to say 60k, but I could be wrong on this one. I'm positive about the 4-cyl though.

    I got quotes ranging from $475 to $750 to replace the belts and water pump on my 1996 Accord (you should replace the water pump when you do the timing belt).
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    105k on my 02 V6. It's about 7-800 for the belt and the water pump,which they do at the same time.
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Posts: 398
    Pretty sure the v6 is same as 4 cylinder, 7 yrs or 105k. The time factor is just as critical as the mileage since it is made out of rubber. Time can take its toll just as much or maybe even more than mileage. And with the v6 being an interference engine major damage can occur if it breaks.
    If a person waits to do all the 7 yr. 105 k recommended maintenance items at one time, your looking at BIG bucks. I've kind of prioritized them, with the most critical one being timing belt, water pump, seals, drivebelts done together. Next will be replace plugs(and probably wires) and then have the valves adjusted. All together these are about 2k worth of work at the dealer. I just try and spread the cost over a year or so, that way it doesn't sting as much.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I've got very nearly 180k miles on my 1996 Accord 4-cyl and that car has never had (or needed) a valve adjustment. It runs and idles smoothly, and I see no reason to get it done.
  • fritz1224fritz1224 Posts: 398
    Well, I can't visually SEE why it should be done. Just like I can't visually SEE when a timing belt needs replacing. I trust the engineers who designed the engine to know what they are talking about. My understanding is that the exhaust valves tend to get tighter and the intake valves get looser. If the exhaust valves get too tight you end up with burnt valves and a decrease in compression, hence a decrease in performance. Why risk it? I don't like to waste money either, but all the money I spent trying to properly maintain this car would be for nought if the performance suffers because of neglecting one critical recommended service.
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    I hear no clacking, and am closing in on 200k miles with the car - I just don't find logic in spending hundreds on a valve adjustment on a $2500 car. I will be having the timing belt done, however, before I sell it next year (already have a buyer who has wanted it for 2 years).
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    I think a "best buy" is having your annual inspection done by the dealer. They are looking for work and will certainly find whatever is wrong with your car for free,in effect. No charge for this fascinating suggestion. :)
  • My sons girlfriend needs to replace the drivers side electric window motor. has anyone completed this? Was it easy? I plan on checking the fuses, and then will look at removing the door and gaining access to the motor? Is it gear driven at the point of contact? Maybe it just needs a good cleaning, or bad connection. Don't know any history? when and if it ever worked?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    This may be somewhat helpful:

    Select your model, year, trim, and research items "Front Door".

    Could be a fuse or relay (does she have her manual)?

    Then again, could be switch, wire harness, regulator (motor).

    Did you try the "lockout switch"? Do any of the other windows move?
  • I just bought a 2001 honda accord ex and the first time you drive it each day it hard shifts from 1st to 2nd. After about 5 minutes its fine and wont do it again until the next day. Is this a transmission issue or maybe it needs the fluid flushed? It has 132k on it. It dirve smooth after the initial 5 minutes. Any thoughts?
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Don't flush it. Just do a drain and fill using only Honda brand ATF. About $60 at the dealer.
  • swiggy8swiggy8 Posts: 1
    Hi. My Low Fuel Indicator light used to come on in my 1998 Honda Accord when I had the factory air intake installed. But since I replaced it with a newer cold air intake, my Low Fuel Indicator light has stopped turning on. And this has been going on for well over 6 years. And although it doesn't bother me, I know my car can go way under the E before running out of gas. So, I have just learned to deal with it.
    Just thought you should know.
  • dvdlghdvdlgh Posts: 9
    I had a Mazda with the same problem. Instead of replacing the electric motor, I cleaned it buy spraying electric contact cleaner into one of the small holes in the motor housing. After "swishing" it around good I drained it and filled it with electric motor oil and drained it again. I reconnected the electrical connection and the motor worked fine. Make sure you try it under load (installed and operating the window). It was still working fine when I sold the car a few years later. You can get electric motor oil in a small container for a few bucks at a good hardware store. Get a Haynes manual for the car and be sure to read the section on the airbags before doing anything eletrical, epecially around the dash and doors. It's not as difficult as it appears. I don't know what a Honda dealer charges for labor by you, but two years ago it was $85/hr in my area.
  • rogrdatrogrdat Posts: 2
    For my 2002 Accord V6, the driver's side front window no longer responds to the switches. I would appreciate if anyone has ideas as to what I could check / do to address this problem.

    thanks in advance,
  • selimozselimoz Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Accord ; as the temps are going up it it stalls, I have the same problem , if you fined the answer please let me know
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    You'll have to take the door panel off, and meter the switch output to the motor. Problem could be a bad switch, or a bad motor.
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