Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

16465676970112

Comments

  • jazzchazjazzchaz Posts: 19
    ...thank you friends, i'll address these tips.....chaz
  • We have a 1999 Accord (97K miles) that cuts off while driving. The flashing "green key" and a blank lcd odometer display are the only indications on the dash. The radio still works. It is worse the past few weeks with the warmer weather. It may take 4 - 6 attempts to restart.

    It happened in the summer/fall 2007 and I took it in to the dealer for a day; then an independent shop (for a week). They couldn't replicate the problem. We drove the car for over 1,000 miles during the winter months in Metro Atlanta, GA with few or no problems.

    The ignition switch was replaced under the 2002 recall.

    A garage I took it to this week said it was the ignition switch. They said their certainty was high. They also said it should go to Honda because they have to program something when they replace the ignition switch.

    I spoke to an auto electric shop that someone recommended and he said it didn't sound like the ignition switch. I've read a lot of the forums and I'm frustrated.

    We also have a Silencer Security System disabler on the car that was on the car when we bought it new from the dealer.

    Thanks,
  • Just a disclaimer - I am NOT a car person! I wish I were, but sadly mechanics intimidate the crap out of me. Anyway...

    My '98 Accord has been having some starter problems for the last few months, so we recently took it to a Honda specialist (local mechanic), who replaced the starter. However, when I picked it up, I discovered the following:

    1) the left F/R windows will move from the driver's controls
    2) the right F/R windows will NOT move from the driver's controls, but WILL move when using the switches on the right side doors
    3) the power locks don't work, either from the remote, the lock switches (on either driver or front passenger door), or from manually locking the driver door (which would normally lock all doors simultaneously)

    I've checked the fuses and they all seem to be ok. I doubt this is a problem that I could fix myself but I thought I'd ask around. Does it sound like this is something my mechanic broke, or perhaps just forgot to plug something back in, or what? Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks.

    -Abby
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Since the starter wires are nowhere near the door switch wires, I think something may have gone wrong when the battery was disconnected or reconnected before and after the starter change.
  • georgew1georgew1 Posts: 28
    Abby,

    I believe this is your cure.........sounds crazy but give it a try and let me know.
    With key off, turn window wiper speed control to about half way between quick and slow. Turn on wiper switch. Then turn the key to the accessory position and leave it for about 10 seconds. then turn off everything, NOW turn on the key and try the windows and locks. I bet they work.........
    I can't find my paperwork on this and if it doesn't work, let me know and I'll try to find more on it.
    Good luck,
    George
  • georgew1georgew1 Posts: 28
    Abby,
    I forgot to tell you.......turn on your window wiper stitch to "intermittent" BEFORE you set it midway between slow and fast. Then turn the ignition switch to "ACC" for several seconds. Everything off and then try your doors and windows.
    That should do it.
    George
  • I've owned my 1998 4 cylinder Honda Accord for a bout 2 1/2 years, and since I got it, it has had this problem which no one can seem to solve. It started off by cutting off when driving my car after it had been sitting for a long period of time (like overnight). When I would push the accelerator the car would shake a little and just cut off (which has put me in some pretty dangerous situations). I found that if I felt the car shake I could prevent it from cutting off by giving it more gas (which works most of the time).

    Of course it would never do this for the mechanic, because after driving to the mechanic (who is across town), it would have been running for a while, and the car never did this after it had been running for 15 min or more. I finally had to leave my car with my mechanic so that he could see this for himself. He was not exactly sure what it was, but he gave me a tune up, and it was better for about 4 months. Then it started again, after a trip to Bakersfield, which is an hour and a half each way, my maintenance-required light came on. I have taken it to 2 different mechanics that could not diagnose the problem. It has even been hooked up to the computer that reads the codes, but no code shows up. Also now when I start my car I have to immediately hit the gas or else it will cut off.

    I work as a valet and have noticed that most of the Accords (that are the same body style as mine) have their maintenance lights on too. Is this a common problem amongst 1998-2002 Accords??? I really do not want to spend hundreds of dollars on something that might not work. Please help!!! :confuse:
  • I'm getting some pretty high quotes for a timing belt, water pump and tension assembly replacement and wanted to see if this is in line with the current market rates. Also, I'm getting this done in Manhattan which will surely add an unnecessary premium, but I have no choice. Getting an average of $925 for the three parts including labor. Some additional work will be done such as cam seals and something with the crankshaft (?). Does this sound way out of line?

    Also, my car just hit 100K and runs very well - EXCEPT - when I have to start the car multiple times within a short period (~ 3 times within 3 - 6 hours). No problem the first time, a bit of sputtering during idle on the 2nd time, and the third time, the car will turn over and rpm's will reach ~2000, then slowly sputter down to a stall. The only way I can manage to start the car is if I give gas for a minute or two before it stalls out. Any ideas?
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    The "Main't Req'd" light just indicates that it has not been reset in 7500 miles. You must (or the dealer should) reset the maintenance required indicator at oil changes. It illuminates when it is time for your next service; every 7500 miles. This is NOT the same thing as a check engine light, and explains why no codes show up.
  • mcolamcola Posts: 1
    I'm new and this is my first posting.
    I have a 2000 Accord SE (2.3L) with 190,000 km (120,000 miles). There is an annoying clunking in the front end that is most heard at slower to average speeds over bumps. I've done the following over the last couple years and am getting fed up with the noise and the costs of changing things that don't correct the noise.

    Struts - changed about 2 years ago - reused the springs and there are not cracked, and not sure if the top bushing/plate (or whatever it is) was changed.

    Swaybar bushings and links were changed about 6 months ago (front and rear).

    Passenger upper ball joint/control arm was changed about 3 months ago.

    Front brakes were done about a year ago and are still good.

    As far as checking play, etc. I can tell you I've had a few mechanics have a quick look at it while doing other work on it and they say the front end is fine. I think most check the front with the wheels hanging and they don't notice anything. I've gotten fed up and done my own checks and find the noise when the tires are on the ground. If I bang my fist at the top sidewall of the driver tire, I hear a definite clunky rattle. My guess is its the wheel bearing. But I'm not fully sure because when I raise the car and spin the wheels, it doesn't feel ratchety, and I only hear slight humming from the pads on the rotors. There is no grinding or humming when driving the car.

    Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Sounds like ball joints to me. The have not worn out, so they will not show signs of looseness, but the grease is gone, so they will make the scrunching sound at slow speeds going over things like speed bumps. Honda really should have put grease zerks on the ball joints. :(
  • tj111tj111 Posts: 5
    I have the same car.
    This happen to me. To make a long story short, I changed the fuel regulator and problem went away. The fuel pressure was not high enough. (Weak regulator) Cost me 45$
    Hope this helps
  • wolfkittywolfkitty Posts: 1
    MINSTRY125-
    In Southern CA I just did my 105K reccommended maint for my V6 2002 Accord, it included timing belt, water pump, outside belts incl AC compressor belt and power steering belt, spark plugs, oil change w/filter, coolant replaced and including labor was quoted anywhere from $1200-$1300, upon review, they also recomm. replacing my leaking hydrolic tensioner and right motor mount (parts only), and the total was $1531.63.
  • upengan78upengan78 Posts: 21
    Hi

    We last week did 120000 miles recommended maintenance on V6/ 2000 Accord SE 4 Dr in IL, Chicago and replaced timing belt/water pump as well. Our expenses are 1015$
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    We last week did 120000 miles recommended maintenance on V6/ 2000 Accord SE 4 Dr in IL, Chicago and replaced timing belt/water pump as well. Our expenses are 1015$

    The Accord V6 did not come in an SE model until 2007. Is it a 4-cylinder?

    I'm paying $427 for timing belt replacement, water pump replacement, and the antifreeze on my 1996 Accord LX 4-cyl Automatic. 180k miles. The other quote I got was $720.
  • mentiyamentiya Posts: 17
    Hey, I could not take listening to that low rumbling sound coming from my car anymore, so on the way to the gym I stopped off at an automechanic shop and the guy rode with me and immediately said I think you have a bad wheel bearing on your rear passenger wheel. Oh, what a relief....this whole time I had been thinking the noise was coming from my CAT and it is quite obvious now as I am listening to it that it is from the wheel. I guess I was too focused on getting that catylitic converter replaced that I ruled out anything else. I am sure eventually I will need a new CAT, because that code P0420 did come up twice but the light hasn't come on again. So for now I am getting the wheel bearing hub replaced which is not that expensive. I feel blessed that this problem was quickly diagnosed and is being repaired as I type this:) Thank you again for all of your help as I do appreciate it. Oh, and I did have my car put up on a lift while I was at the shop and they showed me the underside. That was the first time I have seen underneath of my car and I thought it was pretty cool. It looked great! The guy showed me the CAT and the 02 sensor, which is mounted in the rear of the CAT. Very interesting. Thanks again, Heather:)
  • upengan78upengan78 Posts: 21
    EX V6 4 Speed Automatic :P
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    wow, good to know you got what was truly needed fixed and in the process, learned something. i wish you happy and safe motoring. :shades:
  • tj111tj111 Posts: 5
    To reset the maintenance light. Hold down on the odometer reset button on your panel and turn the ignition switch to on. Wait till you see the maintenance light go out. About 30 seconds
  • tomk17tomk17 Posts: 135
    I'm looking a 98 Accord EX (4 cyl) for my new driver daughter. I've had several Honda's including a 98 Odyssey and a 04 CRV. Both great cars with no problems. This Accord is an adult 1 owner car, great shape, and very well maintained with fresh tune-up. It does however have 175K miles. I will check the service records but the timing belt / water pump were obviously done and most likely many other items. I would be buying it thru a reputable wholesaler who I've worked with in the past - he knows the owner.

    I'm sure there are some high mileage owners here and I'd appreciate any input on what I should expect from this car. It only needs to last another 18 mths and another 15-20K miles. Price will be $4000
Sign In or Register to comment.