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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair



  • rthomaxrthomax Posts: 1
    My Honda is shutting off as others have reported and I've also taken it to the dealer only to be charged for a diagnosis that didn't find the problem. In summary the dealer could not replicate the problem and thus recommended new dist cap, rotor, wires and plugs. I replaced all these parts. Problem reoccurred. Car shuts down whether traveling at any speed and anywhere. After 4 or 5 turns of the ignition, it will run fine for miles. However, every day it shuts down at some time while I'm driving.

    Any help will be greatly appreciated.
  • dharg1970dharg1970 Posts: 3
    I had the same problem with my 99 Accord at 90,000+ miles and tried the dealer and an independent garage. The dealer situation was like yours except I wouldn't leave it. It didn't fail during a regular visit to the dealer and I didn't want to spend $90 for a diagnostic fee. I left the car with the independent garage for a week and it didn't replicate the problem for them. Another time this spring when it cut off about 13 - 15 times in 3 miles, I took it back to the independent garage and they got it to cut off and said it was the ignition switch, but said they didn't they couldn't replace it because the dealer had to reprogram something (the dealer didn't agree when I checked with them).

    I finally took it to an auto electric specialist that wasn't quite as close to me. I gave him all the history and symptoms. There was no indication from the engine except you'd get no acceleration when you stepped on the gas and the digital odometer would go blank.

    Although he couldn't get it to cut-off, he saw a problem with the electronic portion of the ignition switch and said it should be replaced no matter what. He was very good about asking questions and ruling out the other possibilities like the main relay and the components within the distributor assembly (coil, igniter, etc.). He replaced it and I've put about 800+ miles on it with no failures.

    A good auto electric specialist usually doesn't deal with anything but electrical problems and is a lot better that the general automotive facilities.
  • estyle77estyle77 Posts: 2
    Hi My accord 2000, 2.0i uses oil on long distances.No smoke from exhaust and no leak from below the engine.Fault light came on after i bought it as the oil was completely finished.Engine itself is smooth and no extra noises.It has done 84000 with full service history.One mechanic has said that it's normal for the car to use oil.It's using approx a gallon for 4000 miles.Recent service has not picked up any faults
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Just to make sure. Is the car using 4 quarts per 4000 or 1 quart per 4000?
  • estyle77estyle77 Posts: 2
    yup it needs approx 4 quart oil semisynthetic 10/40 in total for 4000 miles.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Lot of oil! Make sure you keep the oil topped up to the full mark on the stick and moniter the oil level frequently.
  • kym28kym28 Posts: 5
    I put gas in my 02 Accord and it will start but then the lights on the dash will come on then it cuts off and sometimes it shakes a little before cutting off. It only happens right after I put gas in what could be wrong?
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    You could have an ignition switch going out on you (electrical part). There may have been a recall on it. Check it out.
  • kym28kym28 Posts: 5
    Thanks will check it out.
  • tbloomtbloom Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Accord that has the side curtain airbags. My SRS indicator light is staying on. I've checked the seat belts tensioners and they seem fine. Any ideas?
  • zbxzbx Posts: 30
    I have identical (intermittent) problem with my 2002 Accord. For a temporary fix (i.e. I don't know how to fix it either) I pull the door side of back of the passenger seat towards drivers seat.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Below is a link on how to reset the SRS light. Good luck
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Check with your Honda dealer. There may be a free fix for the srs light. Any light package in the seat will cause mine to come on.
  • No, that's a great deal, I paid about $50 more for the same stuff to be done last year. I hit 150k so i did the seals too, but i did the seals for the FIRST time at 150k, but it might be more about age rather than mileage, not sure which. (mine is a 98) but, since it takes lots of work to acess the timming belt, and no extra parts to be removed to replace the seals, go ahead and get them done. The issue with the starting could be several things, and you should ask the mechanic who is replacing all the belts and seals, just ask and see if they will check for free. I had to replace a FOAM seal in the fuel recycling port thing (simply, it is a valve that resupplies the engine with unburned fuel to fully burn the fuel. this was stuck open for me, so no new fuel would be supplied to the engine and old fuel (which could not be supplied) was getting recirculated back in, causing sputtering. BUT , this was once it was running. Therefore, I would say it might be the solenoid in the starter. You can just replace that, but a whole starter is $79 at pep boys or autozone and gaurnteed for the life of the car under your ownership. the whole starter costs $47 more, but you get the 47 refunded when you give old part back. The starter is not just the problem, but giving you a heads up for when the starter starts to fail in the next few years. my guess, sparkplugs, or something with ignition (not starter). best of luck!
  • catylatic converter, this is the reason for the light, almost all accords have a bat cat these days, the rattle in exhaust is a dead give away, pep boys or autozone is 179 ish for a exact oem replacement. try new spark plugs for the engine cut off, and there is a FOAM valve that can get stuck open, which supplys engine with unburned fuel. Thus, your running on vapors until new fuel slowly creeps past valve.
  • I have a clicking prob now with 166k miles and its NOT the cv joints, I had the honda dealer check a week ago (actually they said the cv joints are in great shape for their age). I have a broken left front stabilizer link, which they recommended to replace both. $90 per part through dealer, but should cost MUCH less elsewhere. It clicks when turning under 45mph and accelerating from a stop nomatter what acceleration. I have drivin the car to a max several times in this condition, but I finally have enough money to replace, so its not vital, just important, and you should do it now if you have the money. labor and parts PER side is $119 at dealer, but should again be much less through anyone else, hope this solves it for you.
  • pablo9pablo9 Posts: 29
    THere IS a recall on the ignition switch for the 6th gens. It includes some civics, too. Call your dealer, provide your VIN, and they should be able to take care of it.
  • dharg1970dharg1970 Posts: 3
    In the case of my ignition switch, it had already been replaced under a previous recall for the ignition switch. The dealer said they would only replace it once.The symptoms started up sometime over 93K miles but wouldn't replicate for the dealer and most other shops. I had checked the Honda site and there weren't any recalls other than the one that had already replaced the ignition switch.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I was under the impression that recalls were forever. In other words, Honda would be responsible for fixing the issue, no matter how many times it happened.
  • 2hondaonr2hondaonr Posts: 1
    I am trying to eliminate cigarette smoke smell from A/C.

    Can anyome tell me where Air -intake for AC is located??

    Also Any Other ideas for eliminating odor
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