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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Change the cabin filter?
  • I have notice a number of messages describing engine stalls at various speeds with no regard to weather conditions. I have a 98 V6 Accord. and I am experiencing this problem as explained by kbain in his message #1258. For me this started about 2 years ago at about 150,000 miles. I have taken it to the 2 seperate Honda dealers a total of 3 time but like the other bloggers the problem does not replicate for the dealer. I also had the ignition replace twice and that has had no effect on the problem. I had one service manager say it was hairline cracks in the fuel injectors that as the engine heats up these expand and cause the shutdown. I have a problem with this explanation, first if this was the cause and the car stalls and I then have to wait a minute or up to five minutes for the car to restart why wouldn't the car just stall again two miles down the road when the engine gets hot again. In my experience and I should mention that I drive 50 miles each way to work that with this problem of engine stalls it stalls once and thats it for the rest of the drive. Only rarely does it stall more than once a trip. I do notice the it stalls more frequently in the heat of the afternoon drive than the morning commute but it does happen sometimes in the morning.

    I am no mechanic but I did notice an article (Edmunds Tech Center) Injector Perfection that seem to me that it could be a sensor problem.

    I would like to know has anybody been able to solve their stalling problem. This is frustrating, time consuming and not to mention dangerous.
  • leppertleppert Posts: 1
    Just purchased a 2000 Accord LX but it does not have the keyless entry system. Got a quote from Honda for $600 for installation with fobs. Any suggestions for getting it done cheaper? Thanks.
  • bimmer4mebimmer4me Posts: 266
    My 99 Accord with 59k runs fine and has been maintained accordingly. Twice in the last 2 months my car has just died out at a red light. The second time was yesterday. Put it in neutral and it started right up with no problem. If this continues, I'll have to have a mechanic look into it. What could be the cause? As others have experienced, my car probably won't replicate this symptom when I take it in for a diagnoses.
  • I took my 98 Accord LX (4 cyl-auto) in to the dealership a few weeks ago to replace the window regulator motor (driver's side). When I got back in the car the check engine light was on. It was not on when I took it in. I was able to reset the light but recently it came back on after filling up with gas and won't turn back off. It blinks once when trying to reset it with the trip reset method. Should I hold the dealership responsible? I've read several places that the EGR valve could be the issue but I had both oxygen sensors and the catalytic converter replaced less than two years ago.

    Also, how do you change the bulbs for the odometer/trip display and the clock? Someone told me the dash has to be removed. They have not worked since I bought the car and now the lights on the gear shift are out as well. Is that a bulb too?

    Finally, it has a little over 200,000 miles on it. When I reach certain speeds it kind of hesitates and I have to accel for it to go into gear or let off the gas for a second or two. When it does this and goes into the next gear it kinda clunks which I have been told happens with the kind of miles that is on it. Could the hesitation and clunking be a sign that I should have the transmission flushed? I don't know what the previous owner did with it so it could be non-Honda fluid in there.
  • It could be the main relay switch. The main relay switch is known to have bad soldering inside and as the car goes through heating/cooling cycles, the joints get cracks in them causing sporadic connections. The main relay is what activates the fuel pump, so you'll get a crank, but no gas. It's a very common issue (happened on mine too). Solution is to either buy the $40 part for replacement (it's user replace-able under the driver side dash) or pulling it out, opening it up and re-soldering any bad joints. I did the latter option and haven't had any issues in a few years.

    Bad Relay Info
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Changed my spark plugs for the first time at 90k. Couple of suggestions/observations. My plugs needed changing and the car runs smoother on start up and more responsively w/ the new plugs. I used the NGK platinum plugs just like the oem plugs so I will not have to change them again for awhile. I always use anti seize when I replace plugs. The rear most bank of plugs seemed to show slightly more discoloration and were harder to turn than the front bank plugs,so I suggest you check a rear bank plug to ascertain condition and tightness. I used a 10mm socket to remove a bracket to facilitate change out of the plug nearest the firewall,on the passenger side. Difficult to get the plug tube to clear as you remove it. Glad I checked/changed mine earlier than the 105k spec. I was quoted $171 for the plugs at the dealer parts counter. I paid $68 at Auto Zone for the very same plugs. Hope this helps.
  • srx2870srx2870 Posts: 16
    hi, i had a 2002 honda accord LX which run perfectly for almost a year, recently i found out the car slightly shaking/trembling when running on a perfectly flat surface road. Can any expert help me explain why this is happening? its something wrong with the tire or the suspension/shock absorber? Thank You very much :cry:
  • henry88henry88 Posts: 2
    As I boosted my Accord which hadn't been driven for almost a year, I got the click sound the but the engine wouldn't start. The car was running fine the time I drove it. What should I look into for a car that's been sitting in the garage for about a year? Thanks in advance.

    Henry
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Charge/change the battery
  • henry88henry88 Posts: 2
    Hi kiawah, the car that I boosted from got a new battery and it was running by the time I booted the Accord. Do you think I still need to get a new battery? Thanks.
  • novanova Posts: 135
    Does the 01 have an A//C filter and can someone explain to me how to change it.
    Thanks
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    Yes, the Accord has had an A/C filter since the '98 model deubuted. It requires getting into and behind the glovebox, I believe - not terribly easy to get to - another owner can fill in the details, I'm just telling you what I know! :)
  • novanova Posts: 135
    Thanks maybe some one on this sight has done it and can help me out
  • thegraduatethegraduate Posts: 9,731
    You're in the right place - some people will log on later that aren't on here right now and see your post about changing the AC filter.

    Some people can't hop on Edmunds at work! :blush:
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    The best way to determine, is to take your vehicle to an autoparts chain (pepboys, autozone, etc), where they have a device which will do an alterntator and battery load test. This is a free service. This will put both the alternator and battery under a resistive load, verifying that the alternator diodes are good and delivering both the voltage and current they are rated at, and that the battery is holding the charge correctly.
  • willis3willis3 Posts: 76
    The filter you are referring to is the cabin filter.

    This can be easily replaced, just follow the directions, which you can find here.

    He has a link on the page to a Acrobat file that you download that shows pictures.
  • 201w17201w17 Posts: 1
    In May, we had pretty major work done on our accord (70K miles): new rear brake pads, new timing belt, new battery, new sway bar links and ball joints, oil change, fluid change, cabin filter - all by a honda dealer, hoping that would be it for a very long time. Recently, brake, battery, and door open lights came on, stayed on, and the car gradually died while on a trip. A local mechanic replaced the alternator. On the 500 mile drive home, the lights began to all come on again, but only when the rpm's hit 1000. Does anyone have any idea what we should expect when we take it back to the dealer for testing? Could their work have caused any of this?
  • brigitsbrigits Posts: 1
    Hi. Did you ever find out what the stalling problem was on your Honda? I am having the same problem with a 2002 V6 and have about 150K miles. It only happens sporatically but it's happened 3 times now. I have it in to be checked today and they were suggesting it could be my exhaust system needed to be cleaned.
  • ams5ams5 Posts: 1
    I have an 2002 Honda Accord V6. A little bit more than 70,000 miles. I went to Honda dealer service this morning. I told the advisor there that when I press the brake, the sterling wheel shakes. He called and said it is because the brakes are worn out. It is impossible. I had the brake replaced (front - last year and rear - two years ago) by Midas. He said they are not Honda brakes and are not good. But still. They should last longer than 5 years, at least! He said there are only 4 mm left for the front and 5 mm left for the rear. How can the front brakes wear off faster than the rear brakes? Does anyone know anything about brake? How far can I drive with those brakes (in distance and in month)?
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