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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • nlsnls Posts: 65
    Yes, it is like when one is learning to drive a stick shift car, the abrupt engagement. It is not there when the car is cold, gets progressively worse over time, small jerks initially and a lot of vibrations as the car is driven longer. It is definitely not a engine misfire. Most noticeable from stop to 1st and 1st to 2nd. Entire clutch assembly was replaced last year, but it was probably an after market unit, not a Honda factory original, if that indeed exists.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,989
    yeah well one has to be careful to check the source of parts that a shop is using in your car.

    When it comes to a clutch I have two rules: one, use the best parts you can buy, and two, replace everything---every bushing, seal, spring, etc.

    You don't want to have to be in there twice is my reasoning.

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  • nlsnls Posts: 65
    Supposedly the mechanic replaced the entire clutch assembly rather than individual parts, but it is possible that flywheel was not replaced. What is the most likely issue when the harsh engagement is not there with a cold engine, and becomes progressively worse as the car is driven for longer periods? Can it be anything else which doesn't need dismantling the clutch again?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,989
    I'm thinking as we speak....hmmm....I suppose a fluky hydraulic slave cylinder that's binding in parts of the piston travel???

    I wonder if your car has a little inspection plate where someone could peek in there?

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  • I have recently had some problems with my car starting. The first time it happened the engine would start and then turn itself off. I waited about an hour for AAA to show up and then the car started. The second time it happened the car just went to battery power or, as AAA told me when they showed up, to accessory. They told me to jiggle the key to get it to work. The third time I had the problem I tried the AAA trick and the car started after a few minutes instead of closer to an hour.

    I think the first starting problem is different from the other two, but for both issues I have taken the car to a shop and the mechanics have not been able to reproduce the problem so they haven't been able to figure out where the problem is. I have heard of someone else with the same year and make car with a similar issue, but again mechanics haven't been able to figure it out. Has anyone else out there had a similar problem? I am tired of trying to explain the problem to mechanics and only having the car not work for me.
  • Sounds like a faulty ignition switch. Honda had a recall for that issue.
  • Thanks. Maybe if I tell the mechanics that they will finally find the problem. I don't quite get how the dealership didn't suggest that since I would think they would know about recalls. Really, thank you. A suggestion about what the problem might be is a lot better than my current situation.
  • aepeteaepete Posts: 2
    A few days ago my mechanic replaced the ignition switch on my 1998 Accord LX (it had been stalling when I tried to start the car). This fixed the stalling problem, but when I got home from the mechanic and tried to lock the car with the remote, the remote didn't work (although the battery still lights up). The remote was working fine up until this point. I replaced the battery, and no luck. So I brought the car back to the mechanic, who tried reprogramming the remote. Still no luck. The mechanic says that I will need to take the car to the dealer to have it fixed. He says that the remote entry has nothing to do with the ignition switch they replaced and that it's just a coincidence that the remote stopped working when it did.

    Does that seem plausible? Or could this problem in fact be related to the work the mechanic did on the car?

    Thanks for any feedback!
  • georgew1georgew1 Posts: 28
    If the locks on your '98 Accord don't work from the switch inside either and if the passenger windows don't work, try this before you take it to the dealer.
    With the ignition switch off, turn your window wiper switch on, the intermittent speed about half way. Push the odometer button and hold it while you turn the key to ACC. That might fix it and save you some hard earned $$$$'s.
    Good luck.
    George in IL.
  • newshiftnewshift Posts: 2
    edited May 2012
    Hi, thanks for all contributions to this great form.

    There is 99 Honda accord, when it is shifting at the take off, it makes a clunk noise. This also happens when you make a full stop. I showed it to mechanics and had different opinions. One told transmission should be replaced, inside is bad. Other told one of sensors is not working well, so it is not shifting properly.

    Do you have an suggestion about what is going on, and what is the best way to detect what the real problem is?

    Thanks.
  • aepeteaepete Posts: 2
    The locks do work from the inside, as do the windows, but thanks for your tip, George.

    I wish I knew if the remote entry problem could be related to the ignition switch so that I could decide whether to keep pressuring the original mechanic to fix it. It's frustrating to have the car come out of the shop with things broken that weren't broken before!

    Amy
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,989
    Are you talking about an actual metallic clunk you can hear, or just a harsh shift up and down?

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  • georgew1georgew1 Posts: 28
    Amy,
    I'm sorry you are having such a mysterious problem. I can't help but think something is wrong with the remote. I know you replaced the battery but why not see if the dealer has some way to check the remote unit or is there a universal remote or something they have that can prove that your car system is good or bad. There must be some way to prove one or the other is bad. A HONDA dealer can't be that inefficient but many are.
    Good luck.
    George
  • mgcoaltermgcoalter Posts: 3
    edited May 2012
    Having a starting problem again. I tried opening and then re-closing the gas cap like a family member suggested, that didn't work. It was almost 90 degrees here today, so maybe that is the problem? I think I read somewhere about people having a similar issue in warm weather. Any other suggestions as to what the issue might be?
  • propwash49propwash49 Posts: 38
    Accords are pretty famous for having problems with the fuel pump relays, especially in hot weather. Sometimes you can hear if you have a problem. Open the trunk lid so you can get your head down right over the gas tank. Have someone turn the key to the on position, but do not try to engage the starter. You should hear a short buzzing sound as the fuel pump comes on to build up pressure in the system. The sound should stop after a second or two. If you don't hear this at all, it's possible that the relay is defective and the fuel pump is not operating. If the relay is the problem, it isn't too difficult to replace yourself, or any reputable garage should be able to take care of it for you. Good luck,.
  • andrew27andrew27 Posts: 5
    Suddenly my Accord 2000 EX V6 check engine light on (I reset it and it is back on after a few days). And more importantly, mileage suddenly drop to around 9 mpg!
    Any clue?
    Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,989
    Well the clue is the check engine light, so get the car scanned.

    Offhand, could be lots of things---bad 02 sensor might do that, leaking injectors, low compression, faulty timing....

    You might check your oil and if the dipstick is way overfill, that would be a big hint for us.

    But by all means, have a scan done. I think OReilly and Autozone still do them for free for you...and GET THE NUMBER of the code when you come back here.

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  • andrew27andrew27 Posts: 5
    Engine code: P0401. Exhause Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected.
    With very low gas mileage, any educated guess on what goes wrong?
    Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,989
    Bad egr valve, plugged egr tube----sure, that'll contribute to bad gas mileage depending on how the EGR is stuck---if open, that's not so good.

    I can't say that the effect on MPG would be drastic, but it's a good first step. You might also want to check when you had your last tune-up and/or compression test.

    also check your dip stick for signs of overfill--you could be leaking fuel into the crankcase from leaking/dripping injectors.

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  • bahaybahay Posts: 4
    Have you checked starter?
  • bahaybahay Posts: 4
    I found on Ebay. I had the same problem with my clock. I changed bulb. I purchased on Ebay for about $4.
  • bahaybahay Posts: 4
    I don't know if you tried this...if not, try it...

    Entering the programming mode cancels all learned keyless remotes, so none of the previously programmed remotes will work. You must reprogram all of the keyless remotes once you are in the programming mode.

    You must complete each step within 5 seconds of the previous step to keep the system from exiting the programming mode.

    1. Turn ignition switch to ON (II)
    2. Press the LOCK or UNOCK button on one of the remotes. (An unprogrammed remote can be used for this step.)
    3. Turn ignition switch to LOCK (0)
    4. Repeat steps 1, 2 and 3 two more times using the same keyless remote used in step 2
    5. Turn the ignition switch to ON (II)
    6. Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button on the same remote. Make sure the power door locks cycle to confirm you are in programming mode.
    7. Press the LOCK or UNLOCK button on each remote you want to program. Make sure door locks cycle after you push each remote button to confirm system has accepted the remote.
    8. Turn the igniton switch to LOCK (0) to exit programming mode.
    9. Test remote
  • bahaybahay Posts: 4
    edited July 2012
    Hello to all.
    I'm almost close to change transmission fluid, power steering fluid and brake fluid. I have a 2000 Honda Accord v6 sedan.
    Today I called Honda dealership to know how much they will charge for the service shown above and the person who does that service told me the following prices:
    Transmission fluid service - $99.50,
    Brake fluid exchange - $147.20,
    and power steering fluid exchange - $104.19


    Also he said that those prices include fluid, labor, shop supplies, and tax.

    I need advise. Is it to expensive to do it in dealership or it can be done more less in other places such as Jiffy Lube?

    Thanks in advance.
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Best to let the dealer do the service,particulary,the transmission fluid drain and fill. Those prices are in the ballpark. I think my dealer charge $75. to do the trans drain and fill.
  • tseverson1tseverson1 Posts: 11
    I do not possess the skills to repair much on my 2001 Honda Accord EX.

    On Tuesday my auto repair shop put on new bushing(s) and link(s) on the left front control arm (driver’s side) because of a squeaking noise in that area. On Friday afternoon I heard a strange new noise coming from the motor area of the car. I opened the hood and saw the alternator was not aligned correctly. I drove the car about 20 more miles on Friday and did not hear any more strange noises.

    This morning (Saturday) my serpentine belt on the passenger side shredded when I started the car in the morning. I looked at the alternator and saw a loose bolt which caused the alternator to twist off center and the serpentine belt to shred.

    I can come up with two possible causes for this situation.

    First possibility: The shredded belt is a late result of the work of my brother (a very accomplished do-it-yourself mechanic who has a separate 2 stall garage for auto work) when he and I put on a new alternator over 6 months ago. Perhaps it took 6 months for the bolt to loosen and cause the problem.

    Second possibility and my question: Is it possible the mechanic who put on the new bushing(s) and link(s) on the left front control arm needed to loosen the alternator located behind the radiator on the right front (passenger side) of my car to accomplish his work?

    Your opinions and thoughts are greatly appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,989
    One shouldn't have to touch the alternator to work on the control arm, no.

    As for your brother--it's pretty hard to trace something like this back to a job done 6 months ago. More likely, just vibration worked it loose, or perhaps the threads on the bolt (or worse, the block itself) are damaged. I'd certainly inspect those things carefully before proceeding with a repair. It's also possible some bracket could have broken.

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  • tseverson1tseverson1 Posts: 11
    Thanks for your reply and your useful information.
  • yusuf1yusuf1 Posts: 16
    Greetings all. Supposedly got the ac fixed a month ago, then 2wks later it's blowing ambient air again. The mechanic did install a used compressor though. Took it back to him, he put some freon in and it blew cool just for that day now its back to regular air. Basically I'm tired of putting money in and have started looking at newer vehicles. Could this be an easy fix though?
    Condenser maybe? Is it worth it with 282000 miles on it? Just thinking of cutting my losses. Any opinion would be helpful..thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,989
    Well, if he put freon IN, that means that freon leaked OUT at some point, so...where all leaks repaired and tested, first of all?

    Could be an expansion valve....you should perhaps go to an AC specialist and have the system tested.

    As much as it might cost to fix the AC properly, it's still way cheaper than another car. Presuming yours runs well and looks good, it would be worth the investment. You should be able to run the car up to 225K--250K.

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  • yusuf1yusuf1 Posts: 16
    Thanks so much. I agree it would still be "cheaper to keep her" but its now at 282000 miles and I'm just suffering from car fatigue..we'll see.
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