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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • dcman19dcman19 Posts: 4
    Hey so I think I might be having a similar problem with my accord. It's a 2001 Accord ex I just drove it over 200k miles. The problem has been going on for about 6 months now. Although I think mine might be slightly different; the only time the a/c doesn't work is when the dashboard a/c lights won't turn on. But once the a/c lights are on the a/c works great.

    I've spoken with a friend of mine who is great with cars and he thinks it could just be a bad ground behind the dashboard. Problem is if he is right I have absolutely no experience with dashboards and those can be very complicated.

    So question is if he is wrong what is the problem and if he is right where can I get reliable info. on how to remove the dash and fix it?

    Thanks for the help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,829
    I don't think that's a plausible diagnosis---the AC light won't go on because the AC circuit hasn't engaged the compressor.

    MODERATOR

  • therivertheriver Posts: 68
    02 sedan automatic with 135K. The bulb on the floor shift blew. No big deal, but is there an easy way to replace. I looked on-line and saw some directions but they were not right on for this model/yr.

    thanks
  • belwah87belwah87 Posts: 15
    I've got a 2001 EX-L V6 that I'm about to try to sell. It has 81,000 miles on it. For about the last two years, the odometer often doesn't display the mileage in a readable form -- some of the lines on the readout don't show up, so you can't see the mileage. The miles change properly, it's just impossible to read them on the odometer at times. It doesn't bother me that much, and the problem is intermittant. Unfortunately, the dealer when doing scheduled maintenance one time recorded the mileage in the 90,000 mile range, even though it was really in the 70,000 mile range at the time, and it was reported to Carfax, so now it looks like there's a mileage inconsistency (even though the car really does have only 81,000 miles.)
    Three questions -- any idea how I can fix the odometer display so that it always shows the miles driven? How much is it likely to cost? Can I fix it without making it look like I've played with the odometer?
  • dcman19dcman19 Posts: 4
    Ok thats fine, I'm guessing that also explains why the a/c blows normal air no matter what the speed when the light won't work. Is the compressor working even though a/c isn't then? I get the feeling it's an electrical problem with getting the air cold. Because everything else about the a/c system works great. I've also noticed that the mileage number tends to short out so only the bottom half of the numbers on the odometer show from time to time. Is the problem related?

    Thanks for the help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,829
    yeah even if you have automatic climate control (that is, just dial a number), the AC light has to be on for the AC compressor to be presumed to be working. If you observe the AC clutch on the front of the compressor, you'll see that the front half spins with the belt, but the back half won't turn unless it gets an electrical signal from your controls.

    MODERATOR

  • Anyone know the best (and cheapest) place to buy replacement carpet floor mats for a 2001 Accord? I've seen a few option online but most don't look like the original ones.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    The 2001 Honda OEM floor mats at an on line Honda dealer; H and A Accessories in Citrus Heights, CA cost $64. I buoght a set for my old 2001 Accord. Those 98-2002 year mats were top quality and heavy weight mats.

    The newer model Honda mats are thin and cheap and cost the same!

    Joe
  • So my boy had to get his car inspected but it failed due to his SRS light being on so he looked on line and read something that said he could turn it off with a paper clip. He messed up and stuck the paperclip into the SRS fuse port and im guessing it shorted the car because now nothing works. actually his headlights and his inner lights work thats it, he has to use his key to open it....Any suggestions??

    Oh p.s I told him not to jump it because i did not want to cause more problems
  • lll3lll3 Posts: 10
    Is there a specific blend of oil required for a 2000 Honda Accord ( only Honda oil) or may any brand oil be used so long as the weight is proper? Thanks.
  • You can use any brand of oil as long as it is the correct wieght. It's best to check in the manual for the weight. I believe it calls for 5W30.
    George
  • Here's the story: I was getting a routine oil change. After looking at the car, guy said I needed a new upper ball joint/control arm. I got that replaced. After leaving the lot, I started hearing a noise whenever the car came to a stop. It sounded like something powering down (higher pitch to lower pitch), then the noise stops when the car is stopped.

    I took the car in and they said they couldn't find the problem, and said that it might be a transmission problem. That didn't make sense to me. They couldn't find anything with a diagnostic. What is going on? Anyone have any idea what could be making this noise right after the upper ball joint/control arm is replaced in a 2002 Honda Accord 6 cylinder?
  • All I know is that the service advisors at Honda Dealerships work on commission and the more "repairs" they can get you to pay for , the more money in their pocket. It is definitely a racket. I don't have any work done unless I get a second opinion and price quote.
  • Could be anything in the suspension, I'm guessing that either you need to get the suspension regreased, but mainly when you hear the car winding down, it's your wheel bearings going out. Which could be possible because with a worn ball joint it'll put more force on the lower CA which in turn wears your wheel bearings more. It may have been worn for a while but now that everything is sitting how it should the noise showed up
  • Mitchflorida, thank you for the response. It wasn't a Honda dealership, but it was a place where every time you go something is 'going to fall off and you are going to die on the highway tomorrow!' type of place. So, yes, I think I will get a second opinion.

    the feesher, maybe I'll get my wheel bearings and suspension checked out. I hope it is just there because everything is finally sitting right. That's what it seems like since I got the noise immediately after it was fixed. I will definitely need a second opinion. Thank you!
  • I have been experiencing the same problem with my '01 accord (automatic). I have 208k miles on it and after about 2000 miles into an oil change I noticed I was a quart low. I hadn't noticed any leaks or that I was burning oil up to that point, I took it back to the Jiffy Lube where I had it serviced in the first place (I work in the building next door so I know them all fairly well) and they said I had a very small gasket leak and that I was likely burning oil because of the age of the vehicle. He suggested to just let it run because it wouldn't be worth paying to get the gasket fixed yet.

    I went into Auto zone to check out my options to help it last longer and they suggested to switch to a high-mileage synthetic (something I'm already using, Pennzoil 5w-20 according to the ) and to try plugging the leak with an engine oil stop-leak (Lucas-Oil brand). My worry is after talking to a friend of mine who is a mechanic is that stop-leaks will sometimes plug holes that need to be open. Is there any chance of that happening with my engine or should I not worry about it?
  • Unlike radiator stop leak which some are full of particles that plug holes,my understanding of oil stop-leak additatives is they soften/swell gaskets so they seal better. I'm not aware of an oil addative that could plug up things.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,829
    Stop leak and switching to synthetic are two pieces of not-so-good advice.

    Best thing to do is:

    1. Get the car on a lift and determine exactly what is leaking and how much.

    2. If #1 is insignificant, then just keep an eye on it, and keep adding oil every 2000 miles. That level of oil consumption for a 200K engine is quite acceptable.

    MODERATOR

  • bajajoesbajajoes Posts: 48
    edited January 2013
    My '01 Accord Ex, 4cyl, with Manual Trans uses an excessive amount of oil if I allow High RPM's.
    Compression Test shows 180 across all 4 cyl. Mileage is 155,000
    The Engine uses NO OIL when I keep it below 3000 RPM.
    If I go to RED LINE getting on the freeway I can use a quart per 500 miles.
    The engine is fine, no issues. I plan on continuing to drive as I wish and just add the oil.
    The Spark Plugs are getting used up about every 25,000 as a result of excess oil use.
    Could this be a Valve Sleeve issue?
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    It's no problem. Just top up the oil and keep rollin'.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,829
    don't let high compression fool you. An engine can show excellent compression on a gauge and still have worn oil rings because it is the top compression ring that gives you the reading, not the lower oil rings.

    You could have worn valve guides or valve stem seals, yes--an easy test for that is to take along a passenger and have them looking at the rear of the car while you rev it up on a freeway ramp, and then, making sure NO ONE IS BEHIND YOU, let off the gas, in gear, so that the car 'brakes" by compression alone (don't touch the brakes), and then...once the car has slowed down, PUNCH the gas again---if you have worn valve guides or seals, you will see a substantial puff of blue smoke out the back of the car, because you have created a high vacuum situation when you let off the gas. The high engine vacuum would suck oil through the worn valve guides into the combustion chamber.

    MODERATOR

  • Thank you for the tip. I tried what you suggested by punching it in 2nd gear to 5000 rpm and then let off to 2500 rpm to allow comprsession to brake the car, then re-accelerated to 4500 rpm and saw NO Smoke or even visible exhaust.
    On first start in am there is no exhaust visible only a small amount of water out the tailpipe which clears up shortly.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 44,829
    so I think we can rule out valve guides or stem seals.

    MODERATOR

  • OK, thanks for the help, hopefully I can get this figured out sooner rather than later.
  • ronald58ronald58 Posts: 1
    My 1999 Accord has the Check Engine Light with code P401, EGR flow insufficient.
    I replaced the valve. Light came back.. I opened the valve with direct voltage and engine idle was a little rough. MAP went up from 28 to 35 %. I removed the valve and started engine. I have vacuum at the inlet port and exhaust blowing from the exhaust port.
    Does anyone know how the computer detects low EGR flow ?
    and how do I clean the EGR ports if that is what is needed ?
  • I have a 99 accord that would randomly stall on the highway, very dangerous if this happens, anyways took it to a honda dealer and there was a recall on the ignition switch. They replaced it for free.
  • lll3lll3 Posts: 10
    Does the recall apply to the 2000 Honda Accord LX ?
  • Probably. Call up your Honda dealer and give him your VIN number so he can check it.
  • I know this blog is old. However, I have an I4 99 Honda Accord and recently had a p1456 code. Problem is that there is an extra vacuum port on this plastic "Y" shaped vacuum that has nowhere to go but inside the 2 way valve cover. What does this extra port go into? Or is it capped off?
  • 98 Accord is cutting out intermittently when warmed up. EGR new & ports clean in intake, no vacuum leaks found, happens at low end runs great above 2500 RPM's never dies just drops off to just below normal idle range then back to wherever it was. 2000 RPM down to 400 or so then right back to 2000. Just replaced the Main Relay and no change. It does this about half the time when the car gets to operating temps. Injection system just cleaned.
    Also, I cant hear the fuel pump run when I turn the switch but would it run at all if the fuel pump wasn't working??
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