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Honda Accord (1998-2002) Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    suspecting the motor is coming loose in the door, loosing connection with the window moving mechanism.
  • Let me try to make a long story short. The other night I was going to change out the rotors and pads on the front disc brakes of my 99 accord lx 4cyl. I noticed that the lugs were kind of warm and the caliper was pretty warm as well, it had been sitting for about 1 hour or maybe a little less. I didn't think much about it. Well I got the new rotors installed along with the pads took it for a test drive and everything seemed fine. Well tonight I was out driving it I noticed a smell I didn't know what it was. When I got back to the house it was the front brakes. The lug nuts were so hot you couldn't touch them for a second with out getting burned. The rim felt fine as well as the tire. I called a friend and he told me try jacking the car up and spin the tire and have someone stop and try to spin the tire right after they release the brake to make sure the caliper wasn't catching or holding. I did that and it spun like a champ. So I don't think it's the calipers catching. He mentioned something about a check valve when you push in the piston on the rotor. He said if you do it to quickly that it does something with that check valve. Do Hondas have that check valve? His next advice was to bleed the brakes and see if that check valve would reset itself. Have you guys heard of that? Or do you think it is the calipers catching? What else do you think could be causing the problem? What should I do first? Thanks for any help
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Normally I'd suspect the front calipers need replaced, but you indicate the wheels spin easily after brakes applied.

    Do a similar test with the rear brakes, but also make sure the brakes are applying when you press the pedal. Perhaps you have a proportioning valve problem where the rear brakes aren't applying, and the fronts are forced to do all of the stopping..
  • Yes it is very odd to me. I will try that test when I get home. I also plan to bleed all the brakes to see if some gunk os in the line. I would say calipers to but normally one goes bad, but both of these are getting hot that is why I think it's something else. Thanks
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    Has your brake fluid ever been changed? Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, and this moisture can cause the fluid to boil, expand, and apply braking force. Then when the fluid cools down, the brakes release normally again. Are you using the right type of fluid (DOT 3 from a sealed container)?
  • I have been having hot brakes. Tonight I jacked up the car and put it in drive to see if one of the calipers was grabbing. The drivers side was fine however the passenger side was sticking or I thought. I had a friend of mine give it some gas. The half shaft on the passneger side didn't even turn until he got the engine at about 3k in rpm. He never put the brake on and the drivers side turned with no problem. The passenger side wouldn't turn at all in idle. So I turned the rotor and it was not sticking at all. The half shaft felt very loose to me on the passneger side. What would cause one half shaft to turn but not the other? It's like only having the drives side is doing any work. Thanks for any inputs.
  • Do you think that is something that could be handled by someone who is handy - but not in taking about car doors. I guess the real issue is how hard is it to take off the panel, etc.

    thanks
  • Hi,
    I started feeling a jolt on my 99 V6 Accord when i move from drive to reverse or vice versa. Suspecting broken engine mounts, took it to the mechanic and he said none of the engine mounts are broken but they have gone weak, and suggested replacing all. almost $750 for all (my car has 130K miles).
    has anyone had to replace the engine mounts because they are weak and not broken ? Also, if i do not replace it, will that affect any other parts? any suggestion/feedback is welcome. thanks in advance..
  • blufz1blufz1 Posts: 2,045
    Take it to the Honda dealer and get a second opinion and bid.
  • A couple weeks ago my car started not wanting to take off once I stopped at traffic lights. I would press the gas but it would only inch up at about 5 mph. I also noticed that the "P" & "D4" lights would both be lit up, and then all lights would go out to none of them lit up. After a few seconds of crawling, the car would then just take off like normal. Tonight, I went to start the car, and it would not start. Both the "P" & "D4" lights are on at the same time. When I turn the car to just the "On" position, there is something that is going "click, click, click". I turned the car off, sit for a couple minutes, turn it to the "On" position again, and I hear the "click click click" sound again. I then tried to turn it all the way to start, but it still would not start. It's turning over like it wants to start, but won't start. Just bought a brand new battery last week, so it's not the battery. Plus the radio and clock is working. There also seems to be some type of "fume" smell inside the car when I hear the "clicking". Thanks in advance for any help you can provide to help me figure this out.
  • I'm not sure how this works, do you just jump in? I recently got my first Honda, a 2002
    Accord EX.... I am a diy type for easier jobs...I have a noisy alternator/compressor belt.
    Some belt lube made it worse...It it an easy replacement? Can someone point me to a picture and tools neeeded page on the web..It is a 4 cyl. v-tech.

    Thanks...............God Bless You.................K
  • 98 Accord Sedan EX-V6 auto. 85k. good shape. well-maintained. The dashboard red lights that indicate the doors, trunk, hood, and brake are on constantly. The battery indicator is on, too. Just before this happened, Dome light was left on without my knowledge :mad: and drained the battery. One jump started the car, then drove about two hours with all the dashboard lights still on. Dome light (now) acts normal. Car seems to drive normal so far. Concerned that a (electrical) gremlin is about to show that may strand me. What should I check to attempt to get ahead of any potential gremlins? Thanks for reading.
  • chucko3chucko3 Posts: 793
    If you have a volt meter, measure the battery. It shoud have
    above 12V DC. Below that, you have a weak/failing battery (not fully charged or holding the charge)
    With the engine on, measure the battery. It should have above
    14V DC. If not, you have a failed alternator. If above 14V,
    you have a failed battery.
  • elroy5elroy5 Posts: 3,741
    I believe there is a door control unit, separate from the main computer. The loss of power may have caused what you might say is a computer error. I would try disconnecting the battery for a couple of minutes (negative/black only required), effectively re-booting the computer. If that doesn't work, there is probably a relay (Honda is the king of relays) or fuse that might be the problem.
  • Hi,

    I very recently same sort of issue with my honda accord EX2000 v6. the problem was alternator, replaced it and things are fine since then.
  • Anyone here know how I can repair this. I have a Magellan GPS, the plug is really snug and I think it pulled the socket connection out a bit. I no longer get power through this outlet. If anyone has worked with this, please share. Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Check for a blown fuse.
  • There are plenty of messages with auto-transmission problems on the Accords, here's my story.
    1999 EX-V6, with over 130,000 miles.

    Just starting to slip going from stop into the first gear. When this happens, usually a rev up over 1500 rpm gets it into gear, and then can proceed.

    Transmission shop said, replace transmission! That is an over $2000 repair :-(

    Cheaper to buy some other car - has Honda fixed their auto transmission problems, will go in for a cheaper civic.
  • yes kiawah is right, check for a blown fuse. If not that, then you've pulled the wire out of the back of the socket and you're going to have to dig in there are re-connect it.

    This is a very common problem as these accessory plugs have to be a precise fit, and some manufacturers are better at this than others. Automakers have even issued advisories on this problem.
  • Hi please can anyone tell me what the reason is why the check engine light won't come off when i turn on the ignition.
    Normally it's suppose to comme on then go off before starting the engine.
    Anyone know the reason why?
    Obi3ice.
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